In this video we talk about our new 55mm performance manifold for 2017-2021 M8 HD® models as well as how to install it on your bike! For more product info, visit: www.sscycle.co...
Why do you remove he manifold as a unit then remove the individual components while off. Then put new manifold on then add the components. Why not just put it back together while off then install the unit as a whole the way you removed it?
Great video. A couple of questions, it appears you didn't install new intake manifold seals and didn't lightly lube the intake seals or the o-rings on the injectors or T-Map sensor when reinstalling. Is there reason why? I have always lubed them with light smear of o-ring seal grease (PYB) or a touch of clean motor oil. Just checking to get your opinion. Thanks.
I see a lot of shops using huge throttle bodies upwards of 64mm for stage 3 builds. Does this 55mm replacement flow enough air for stage 3 build of around 120/120? Thanks
Hi, I am just curious why you do not install the fuel rail, injectors and map sensor before you fit the manifold in place? You don't lock in the manifold bolts until after the throttle body is installed. Clearence issues? I am a novice just enjoying seeing how it in done. Thanks for the excellent video.
I agree. I had significant issues with the injectors and the T30 bolts being installed after the manifold was in place. Had almost no clearance. Had to back out the manifold in order to get any kind of T30 tool on the bolts. I was installing on a 2018 Ultra Limited
@@SSCycleInc I find it just the opposite. Never had an issue lining up the manifold or accessing the socket heads with fuel rail and injectors installed first. Map sensor after all is tight. Easy.
I am having trouble with my stock manifold. It seems like it is time to change out the gaskets. I have been considering this manifold so that I can replace and upgrade the entire system rather then reinstalling stock parts. My only concern is that I am still running my bike on stage one. Would it be safe for me to use this manifold until I complete my build ? I don’t know much and I am trying to gather as much info as possible before purchasing parts.
Hello, what long hexagon socket biscuit wrench do I need to unscrew the Manifold from the cylinders? Do you need a new map/calibration , or does my existing one adapt to the larger airflow? I have an engine conversion from 114-117 cui and a dyno map.
He's clearly talking about a hexagon socket biscuit wrench. A very rare and elusive tool, there is no need to divulge on this as we will just view it here and bask in all its glory. Carry on..
I have since changed it. What you can't see here is the left side of the machine. Here you still have to remove the ignition coil. The bracket is solid steel and you think the engine is hanging from it. I tightened the manifold by feel and it was tight. In the end, the change was probably not necessary, but not wrong either. For a layman, like me already a great feeling to have done it myself. The Trast Cover ventilated from the gearbox and the Power Clutsh from Müller were similarly difficult to assemble. Greetings Thomas @@firstnamelastname9230
Hey man awesome and very informative video Kudos. If i only do a stage 1 on my new m8 bike do a i still need to replace the plastic intake manifold? TIA.
The stock plastic manifold is prone to failure. With a stage 1, you do not need to do this for performance reasons, but it is nice to remove a common failure part from the bike.
What size ball allen socket/wrench for the intake bolts MM or standard. I need to purchase a set and want to make sure i have the right size. I ordered an intake just waiting for it to arrive.
Sehr interessant John. Ich habe einen 117 cui Motorumbau und leider noch das Plastik Manifold. Meine Maschine ist auf einem Dyno Leistungsstand abgestimmt. Brauche ich nach Umtüstung wieder eine neue und teure Abstimmung. Kann ich es auch ohne diese neue Abstimmung einbauen, da das Plastikteil ja auch 55 mm hat? FAT Bob 117 cui, 2018.
Simple modification to make however not worth the time and money. My M8 stage 2 ran well before. The slightly larger bore cast aluminum intake manifold made ever so slight improvement if any.
We have seen the most benefit in replacing the stock plastic pieces when you begin increasing the cubic inches of the engine. At 124 and large, the stock piece begins to show it's weaknesses to heat that you do not get with our manifold CNC machined from T6 heat treated cast aluminum. As an adaptational benefit we see an average of 3-5 hp with just this one swap.
Is there a need to get the bike remapped after installing the new manifold? I’m pretty sure I’ve got a leaking seal on my stock manifold because I have high revs on cold start up and it slowly drops down as the bike warms up… I think the metal expanding closes the leak? It’s just a theory but I’m pulling hair out trying to solve the issue. So tempted to just swap the whole manifold out while I f*ck around with it
This one is 55mm. The SE one is ported to 64mm, to match their 64mm throttle body. The 64 claims 2-4% more flow (5hp), so this might be 1-2% more, about a 2hp gain. To me, I'm hoping it stops the butterfly valve chatter I'm getting in my stock throttle body, by stiffening up the manifold, going from plastic to metal.
Our production team is working tirelessly to get everything restocked for our distributors and dealers, due to the volatile nature of the production environment we can not provide estimates on restocking times unfortunately.
Hey, I’m considering one of these, but I’m not quite ready for a stage 3 (I plan to do one this winter) Would I benefit from upgrading from this manifold with a stage 2? Im running a supertrapp exhaust, woods 777 cam and a S&S Stinger intake.
Hey Dexter, many of our dealer shops swear by swapping the manifolds even with a stage 2 set up. This one part change will gain you between 3 & 5 HP alone, along with increasing the air flow.
We’ve actually had shops that insist on putting them on with a cam upgrade or even a completely stock engine. You’ll still see the 3-5hp boost from it, and most importantly you will be getting rid of the stock plastic unit. While the largest benefits show with a big bore, your stage 2 engine will also breathe a bit easier with it.