P-61 Olive Drab Weathering (OPR) Pt 3

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This is an edited video from multi-Patreon lessons regarding weathering WWII USAAF Olive Drab using the 1/72 P-61A Black Widow project - Part 3.
This model is painted in two schemes, the black camo weathering was discussed earlier, as well as an intro to OPR aircraft weathering. Links to these videos below.
Link to P-61 Black Camo OPR: • P-61 OPR Aircraft Weat...
Link to Intro to OPR Aircraft Weathering: • P-61 OPR Aircraft Weat...
*Click the Playlist tab to see all the videos on the P-61 project.
SUBSCRIBE & SUPPORT ~
Books: www.rinaldistu...
Instagram: / rinaldistudio
RSP PATREON: / rinaldistudiopress
BRUSHES & PAINTS ~
KINGART affiliate -- www.kingartco.com?ref=PWAoY
Main brush:
9020 Series, Golden Taklon Ultra Round #2 (5-6x recommended)
Blending brushes:
9400 Series, Golden Taklon Angular Shader - 1/8 size
9120 Series, Golden Taklon Flat Grass Comb - 1/8 & 1/4 sizes
Additional recommended brushes:
5/0 Spotter, #2 Filbert, #2 Shader, #0 Chisel Blender, 10/0 Liner
OIL PAINTS ~ Gamblin 1980 Series
Titanium White & Buff
Olive Green
Neutral Grey
Payne's Grey
Van Dyke Brown
Transparent Red Oxide & Yellow Ochre
Chromium Oxide Green
Prussian Blue
Lamp Black
Gamsol Thinner (Odorless mineral spirits)
Paper Towel (white to see colors used)
Hair Dryer (low heat setting)
MUSIC LICENSE ~
Music from #Uppbeat (free for Creators!):
uppbeat.io/t/a...
License code: XD9GYXVACVZLKEYR
uppbeat.io/t/k...
License code: A3J7XOQKH2NSAMYV
uppbeat.io/t/s...
License code: QVZQXBBY7LSYPTZQ

Опубликовано:

10 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 22

@ivoferin8176 Год назад

you're great at explaining this... thanks a lot man... Video is much better than a in paper/photo explanation of course. (I just have tank art 4 which is great, I also have all Mig and FAQ guides, which also have their value) but I had the breakthrough moment with weathering after watching your videos (and some of nightshift). May I just point out the lighting for the videos... It seems a bit dark and with shadows... I recommend having a 2 oblique light sources (white color 4500/5500K temp flood bulb), its the technic for photography of small objects or books for ex, and its the same for video where you have a big zoom going on and small objects. My small cent! 8^) Keep up!

@matthewashley7138 9 месяцев назад

Hello from a fellow Portlander. Really finding your OPR stuff relevant and bouncing me back and forth from my own personal art training and experience in other mediums, so thank you. Also, your mentioning of panel lines got me thinking, how do you compare raised vs recessed and the relationship of each to OPR? I realize raised on like a 1/48 aircraft often looks more like an armor weld rather than a joint of two pieces, but then again the recessed are usually trenches of almost fist sized width when you compare it to say the pilot figures as a scale reference. Mostly curious what you'd personally prefer as a starting point surface for OPR.

@rs.p 9 месяцев назад

Awesome, great to hear from a local modeler and good questions. One I'm tackling on my Patreon page with older Matchbox and Hasegawa kits. Simple principle is to sand them partially away leaving subtle residual lines, and then work the oil colors in the same way you see me doing on the P-61 and Tempest projects. Like zimmerit on armor models, it's best not to do anything specific to the surface details otherwise they become very prominent. I've seen work done with pencils and the like for raised panel line weathering, however it's ultimately rather simplistic results. Rather spend some time reducing the raised lines followed by OPR work with the colors will lead to an excellent result.

@matthewashley7138 9 месяцев назад

I've been in the weeds with that old Revell p-61 I was kinda thinking the same thing as far as sanding them down to a more subtle element to use. The plastic on that one is so soft that rescribing resembles plowing a field versus adding actual detail. Black camo research for that one was actually how I found your stuff! I recently picked up some 90's Monogram and Revell kits with raised lines and figured they'd be great practice pieces to try some different things. I'll give that a go! @@rs.p

@rs.p 9 месяцев назад

That's a great plan! I'd love to do that with the Century Series kits and avoid a full re-scribing scenario. The Black Widow kit is a good practice piece, albeit most were gloss black. Still a lot to glean from doing it that way, and just enjoying it overall. I'd say it goes better with an OD/Gray scheme + learning the weathering is going to be a bit more straight forward re. using the oils, etc. with the drab tones and matte surfaces.

@matthewashley7138 9 месяцев назад

I’m having a fun time applying OPR to a pacific scheme blue dauntless. Mostly sun bleaching with white and greys and dialing it back/smudging with ultramarine shades and tones. Though I had matte varnished it sometime back prior to hearing you mention the part about letting the paint interact with the acrylics is a more organic way versus sitting on a barrier. Next time for sure.

@rs.p 9 месяцев назад

I’m so happy someone is listening! 🙌💪😅

@jcwoodman5285 Год назад

Excellent! How do you protect the decals without a sealing coat?

@rs.p Год назад

Thanks! I do, you missed the comment on spot varnish. It’s not a protection issue, the hobby is confused on what a varnish does. It’s to turn the glossy printing to a matte and level the edges. The chemicals used are very low power and don’t ruin or destroy anything, protection isn’t needed. 👍

@ivoferin8176 Год назад

Another thing if I may... You recommend pushing all the weathering start to finish in zones (like that wing) or going for layers over the whole model?

@rs.p Год назад

Over the whole model, same process shown on the Grille and Nashorn in TA4 👍

@pheasantplucker8183 Год назад

Hey Mike, great video. When you painted the invasion stripes, did you paint the black and white then overpaint them or did you tint the top coat to replicate the colour differential?

@rs.p Год назад

They’re painted on first then overpainted, then the darker OD was added last

@thadrobinson8343 Год назад

The exploitation of sheens is very under utilized IMHO. I remember a FSM article probably 30 years ago now wherein the author explained his methods of using varnishes of differing matte levels to create a realistic patchwork of tonal variation.

@quantumplastic Год назад

🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩

@rs.p Год назад

Appreciate it man! :)

@SpeedyTruckin Год назад

Good video. Hit me up. Im headed out west, wondered how youve been. Ill get your number from droopy, if i must 😂

@rs.p Год назад

Will do!

@TwoHandsNY Год назад

Very. First. View. HA!

@rs.p Год назад

Nicely done 😏

@SliczniakPL Год назад

Love it! You mentioned You do spot vernishing for decals. Is that for protection only or is that to get rid of the sheen efect as well? I remember You recommended to polish the paint a bit the surface under the decal instead of using gloss varnish but do You use gloss as well for that reason?

@rs.p Год назад

Thanks! And let me help clarify… Yes, I typically burnish the paint area for a decal (especially on a compound surface). It’s not always needed tho if your airbrushing is well done and use the Softer/Setters etc (that’s the key). No, I don’t use gloss at all (not in this regards). Lastly, the small spot spraying of matte varnish serves a dual combo purpose to remove the glossy printed shine, and more importantly fill in the edges around the decal (removes the step) so they look more painted on. None of this is for protection. 👍