I wish I could like this more than once. As an engineer myself, I found your review comprehensive and well rounded. By providing folks with the requisite knowledge of the entire system, you have armed them with the confidence to move forward in their own repairs. Your troubleshooting is methodical, and follows a logical order in component elimination. I applaud you for spending time to educate, you have a gift. Thank you again.
This is absolutely probably the best video I've ever watched on repairing a vehicle you are very knowledgeable and very calmly spoken easy to understand!
Smooth listening sunny 99.1 fm sounding. Airplane pilot voice altitude and wind pressure reading. This dude calmed me down mad at my truck. Thanks for the stress relief.
I just removed my EGR valve on my 1999 Ford Econoline E-150. I had to size up the nut. I ended up buying a 1 1/6 crescent that fit perfectly. Then I used a 10 mm crescent on the smaller nuts and it pulled loose. However, I do want to note that I also bought some PB Blaster and sprayed it good before I started removing the nut. I let it sit 5 minutes to make sure that it generated through the rust BEFORE I turned it for the first time. Just a little effort. Watch that thumb knuckle! And don't forget to spray down your nuts and screws with PB Blaster and let them sit for a bit before replacing them back into thee hole. You might want to spray down the holes themselves too with PB Blaster.
Excellent content, a couple quick tips, remove both 10 mm bolts holding the egr in, move the egr over and clean both ports with carb cleaner. Also spray both banks (egr tubes connected to exhaust manifold ) also. Make sure all vacuum tuning is in working order, I suggest also removing intake snorkel and cleaning throttle body. Lastly a good fuel cleaner added to a full tank of fuel and steady highway speeds to push out all deposits
Disconnect the hose to the EGR and if the engine smooths, it is NOT the EGR valve. It's upstream. Autozone only checks codes if the check engine light is on. Hook up a Mityvac and pump it up to about 8". If it holds, the EGR is o.k. If it leaks down, it's bad. With the engine running, pump up the EGR and the engine should run rough. If not, the EGR is clogged or the passage is clogged. If you get improper vacuum at the EGR at idle, check the system above the EGR. Check Troubleshooting feature on the code tester.
Great informative video. I have a 99 Expedition with a p0401 code. After searching on RU-vid, I applied vacuum to the EGR valve and the engine stalled like it should. I then figured that it had clogged passages. I decided to clean them myself. They were dirty but not clogged. After a thorough cleaning along with the throttle body, I reassembled it and cleared the code. It came back on after about 50 miles of driving. I then checked all the vacuum hoses for leaks. I found a couple of small rubber hoses with cracks in them which I replaced. Again I cleared the code. It just came on again tonight. My next test will be the DPFE sensor and the EGR solenoid. I don't think that there is anything else to check. I also don't like to throw parts in without testing first. I enjoy videos such as yours and learn so much from them. Thanks again.
Joseph Costello On a Ford replace the charcoal canister purge valve if it has one. Replace the MAP sensor if you get codes about oxygen sensor running rich.
The way you talk makes you sound like the RU-vid mechanic Eric the Car Guy. Search for his channel and listen to his videos. I almost thought this was one of those fake channels that steals videos just to get hits to make money, but viewing your other videos showed me this is a legit channel.
I have a 2001 F150 4.6 and had the P0401 code and would not pass smog. Just did exactly per this video and found exactly the same problem, clogged egr ports. Took my truck to smog station after cleaning out carbon and passed test. Thanks to Vicos for your excellent video.
Thanks for the video. I've found it is always helpful to review what videos are available on a vehicle repair project before I really dig into it, as I usually get a better understaning of the physical system, which, as a disbaled DIY vehicle owner (& former Chemical Engineer), usually gives me a good feel for if it is something that I will actually be able to tackle, or if I should just let a more able-bodied chechanic with specialized tools address it. Your system overview & method of attack was very helpful for me. Thank You. If I don't know any local shops, I typically go to the local Ford Dealer for repairs I can't handle, as at least I know they know how to service their own vehicles, so have never not had the problem fixed. I prefer to find a local shop to work with so as to build a rapport, but that isn't always possible. Armed with a few videos, vehilce repair manual, a cheap code reader, a quick review of Amazon/OEM parts sites to gauge basic equipment costs, I plan to tackle this one myself, unless I run into a roadblock along the way. My 1998 F-150 5.4L XLT has been a very reliable truck for me - I bought it new in Houston TX, and it now has about 250k miles. I drive it every once in awhile just to keep the fluids circulating; mainly it is used for a spare vehicle & to pick up lawn / garden project supplies. I've maintained it well over the years (a combo of self & professional repairs), so expect to have it until I can no longer drive. A good running truck, though not much for fueld economy (about 15 mpg), but a good worker.
Excellent video. I have a 5.4 L Triton on a 99 Expedition and used your video to diagnose a nearly identical problem. After several days of trying to repair my Triton, finding your instructional video did the trick. Simply cannot thank you enough.
Fighting the same challenge on mine. Have a low idle surge when hot only, under load "ac on plus clutch fan on" thats been a bugger to diagnose! Think i have it sorted to the worst fouled out plugs on earth as this "used car" was allowed to run with vaccume leaks and a sticking egr for faaaaar to long! But anywho the TB ports were nearly clogged solid when i pulled the Throttle body...20 min removal said n done...wasn't bad at all...Sadly didn't 100% fix my issue altho the ports were ridiculously clogged but can only imagine how many others this would be a solve for and or can only help the engines performance in almost all cases and fuel consumption...lol. next up plugs!!!! Wish a fella luck!
Thank You for your thorough, calm and patient explanation.. You rock and yes, I can tell that you definitely are an engineer. I know how to tackle this egr issue now 🌺 Best to you.😊
VERY well put together and informative video! Thank you for taking the time to make it. I've been battling this error code with my 1999 Mustang GT w/ a 4.6L V8 engine for a while... Still haven't fixed it yet, but I think this video may lead me to the solution, FINALLY ! Cheers!
If it was possible for an academy award for best informative video and super simple explanation of a problem You sir are number one !! BUT I'm in Portugal and the ford rangers here are no were near your systems and my 2002 that has been completely rebuilt by me , will not start, why? no fuel to the injectors through the fuel injection pump (it is a 4 cylinder diesel mazda base ) anyway I just wanted to say I wish there were more guys like you, who can explain things so that us in other countries get real value ! God bless keep it going. Gary from Portugal .
Very helpful. My throttle body was my problem too and looked almost identical to the one you showed. It was a bear to clean but not hard to get off. Just a few bolts and sensors. Built my confidence and I appreciate the checklist of other diagnoses. Thanks. FYI others may want 2 cans of throttle body cleaner...
I watched your video and just took apart the whole system to clean the EGR system first and it was the throttle body, just like yours. Thanks for the info. It was good!!
Thank you for that detailed explanation, was trying to figure out on how it all works (Vaccuum), and it all makes sense now. Mine issue was the same, running perfectly now. Keep up the good work.
Thank you sir for an outstanding video! You should maybe look into producing or filming documentaries..... I've had a similar problem for so long that the check engine bulb burned out. Now that I took out the instrument cluster and replaced the bulb, I am going to check everything you showed us to get this fixed right. God bless you and keep you always for helping us save hundreds of dollars!
This is is one of the best postings I've seen in years. Couple of things. I know it's not related but when the car doesn't idle right in the morning.. IA C probably needs to be cleaned. Idle Air Control. Watch for little falling screws. Next I have a video where I took my EGR valve out and either cleaned or replaced it. I have a Eddie Bower 1999 4.6 liter Ford Expedition.. basically and F150. Taking the EGR out is best done with a mechanic or knowledgeable friend. Pretty much your accessories on top of the engine will be off. Intake manifold etc. It's probably clogged with carbon. I was a newbie at this experience. Also have the tools you can plus things like extenable small mirror and magnetic pickup tool. Murphies law and coralaries.
Hey, thanks for the video. I have this code on my Mercury right now. My brother, who was a Sr Master Tech at a Ford dealership said it is probably the DPFE sensor. I am like you though, I don't want to just "throw parts at it" so I am going to test the sensor (easy with a multimeter), the EGR valve (with a hand vacuum pump) and the solenoid (also pretty easy with a jumper wire/ test light, and a multimeter). My understanding is that the source vacuum going to the EGR solenoid (red tube in your video) has to be sufficient to fully open the EGR valve, since that is the actual vacuum that is normally used. The solenoid just opens to allow the vacuum to be applied. I believe you may have had a leak in your vacuum line connection. Thanks again for the video!
Thanks for the feedback Nick! Sounds like you have a good grasp on how to test the system to avoid "parts throwing" syndrome. You are correct about the solenoid. The computer decides that emissions gas should be let into the intake, so it sends a signal to the solenoid which opens and allows vacuum to pass to the mechanical EGR valve, which opens and allows the exhaust gas into the throttle body. My thoughts are that if it is a high mileage vehicle, even if the EGR ports in the throttle body aren't completely clogged, they could probably use a good cleaning. When that hot exhaust hits that cold intake air at those ports, it is inevitable that carbon is going to build up. I'm surprised that this is not called out as standard maintenance for, say 100K+ miles.
Good work brother. I know how these mechanic shops are evil lying crooks. That's why I do everything myself. Heres a trick that fixes nearly all of these f150 engines. Take off the throttle body cover and take a metal hammer and tap pn the IAC sensor on the back of the throttle and tap on the EGR valve itself. This loosens the stupid things free usually on these and avoids EGR and throttle cleaning SOMETIMES. And two thirds of these silly test I see done in these videos isn't even necessary. The simple method of unplugging the vacuum connection and attacking vacuum line to the vacuum source and then to the egr as you did in the video end tells you if the egr valve is opening and closing based on the engine surge at idle and engine running smooth at idle without vacuum to the egr which tells its story of I am opening and closing! And the way to text the circuit without any lights or voltage and all this junk do this instead. With engine at operating temperature unplug vacuum at egr and rev engine to 1500 rpm and you should get vacuum at the line that goes to the egr. Then let idle and you should get no vacuum or only a little and then YOU KNOW the circuit is working
Excellent video and very informative. Although I don't have codes, this provides me more knowledge that was presented well. I am planning to do a full throttle body clean just as my expedition 4.6 is having an slight idle issue but does not stall and I have seen my iac and ports did have carbon. This gave me a good way too to test the egr and vacuums. Thanks for sharing.
You did an excellent job Vicos! I hope you provide more videos. My husband was a mechanic and also commented on how SO many ppl get ripped off by a lot of unscrupulous guys - and you got hit TWICE!! It showed great self control not to publish the jerk's names I swear. Thanks again! Vanessa
I have 2 codes showing on the obd2 scanner. First is P0190 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor A Circuit. The other is the P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected. I have owned this car for about a year now. The guy I bought it from was honest enough to let me know that when the gas hand was close to a quarter tank, it would start to cut out, especially when accelerating(uphill badly). After driving it approximately a few weeks, it started doing just that. Then, the ck engine light started staying on. Then one night after taking my Son back home about an hr- hr half away, on the way home it ran so badly the ck engine light was flashing. I didn't know what to do. Luckily, I had been watching many videos on YT so I knew this was serious!! But, on a Sunday night, in the middle of nowhere, and having severe night blindness, I just kept pulling over whenever it would bog down or cut out. I cut it off, set for a few minutes, then it would start back up. I didn't think I would make it home! A trip that is normally a little over an hr took me almost 3 hrs!! To the point now.....Since that episode, I have learned to keep the gas above half tank, have had several repairs done such as new spark plugs/wires, coil pk, some vacuum lines replaced, some other kind of part?, and a few more that I'm can't remember rt now.. The ck engine light has stayed on pretty much all this time except for when the battery has been disconnected and the wires going to the receptacles had been cut too short for some reason causing the speedometer to go haywire and the other gauge too!! The speedometer would bounce around and sometimes stick all the way over. Fortunately, that problem has been resolved. However, it's still doing the same crap.....idles high when first cranking it then levels out, starts bogging down n cuttung out when going uphill and for a while now, even going straight down the road. When it dies completely in the midle of the road I put In t in N, wait about 60 secs n then it starts bk up, runs ok for a lil baby t, then feels like it's missing before trying to cut out. If I try to accelerate, it will cut out so I just let off the gas n it just slows down to a crawl n I'll put it in N again n rev up the engine until it is idleing bk to where it should or close anyway. So, Yeah, that sums it up!! The P0190 has been thrown every time a code scanner/reader has been put on it. So, whatever it is, nothing done so far has corrected the prob! And, I think the other code has shown up several times also. You see, I too, have a couple of those "backyard" mechanics. Bad thing is, they usually think they are smarter than what they actually are. I have 2 other vehicles sitting at my house, rt now for years just because of "ace mechanic friends" that acted like they knew what they were doing but sure proved they Did Not! Both kept my vehicle for 4-5 months and the first admitted he had not even tried working on it because he was just too busy. The second guy I didn't know. He was a "friend of a friend"! I should've questioned my sanity when I found out the idiot goes by the name "FAST EDDIE"!! I don't think it's because he likes to drive fast!!! So,yeah, there are way too many guys (mechanic wannabes) out there that take advantage when they see it's a woman who is needing the work done. LOOK HERE GUYS--We DO know how to watch videos, follow instructions(if clear), and can diy on many projects. I'm gonna get down n dirty, nitty gritty, and greasy too!I've been threatening to for months now! I know I can do as much, if not more than has been done to it, considering it's still not fixed! I'm starting with cleaning the throttle body first, then the MAP, the MAF, and whatever else I can take off and clean + plus any sensor or part I can ck with a voltage meter or whatever!! What have I got to lose? If the darn things are just sitting there anyway, then they're not running. So, who knows, maybe I'll be a woman who actually fixes her own Dodge Ram 1500 and a Kia Sportage 4x4!! I may even make a video just for shitz n giggles!!! Oh boy, did I ever get sidetracked!!! Ok....back to the 2000 Ford Contour. You can hear the fuel pump running when turning the car on. The fuel filter was taken out and cleaned more than once. This entire fuel system is stupid because everything seems to be inside the gas tank. Anyway!!! The only one (mechanic supposedly) that actually looks at it now is the one who has the code scanner, which he doesn't seem to mind to put on there, but he's just always too busy to work on it because he has so many of his own "projects" that he will never finish. SOOOO.....This is one of the better videos I've run across. Oh, but I do really like and believe Scotty Kilmer, but I think he's gone all "Hollywood" on us! SO, I apologize for the long comment, but hopefully it will get someone's attention enough to give me some pointers or help somehow!!!! I'm always open to suggestions as long as ya don't treat me like dumb blonde!! Ok....let's go to the Auto parts store!!!! I'm on a mission!!! Hahaha!!(
Hi Janie, the symptoms you describe match the symptoms they talk about here for the P0190: www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0190-obd-ii-trouble-code-fuel-rail-pressure-sensor-circuit-malfunction-by-jamahl-walker Based on what you say, sure sounds like a fuel pump issue. First thing I would have done is put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail (there is a schraeder valve you can screw into (looks just like an air valve on a tire)). The fuel pressure should go from zero to 30 psi in a couple seconds if it is working properly. If it is low or bleeds down it can be a weak fuel pump. It could also be a clogged fuel filter. Additionally, there is a fuel pump driver module, which sits up near the rear axle outside of the tank, that many times rusts apart. Probably have to take the spare tire down. This is an example of what they look like: www.amazon.com/Control-Mounting-590-001-Lincoln-Mercury/dp/B07HBN8LX4/ My 2002 F150 4.6L is also exhibiting symptoms of a weak fuel pump (no codes, just won't always pressurize the rail when the key is turned on). In any case I would start with testing the fuel pressure. I believe most national auto parts stores will loan them for free with a deposit. Also, search for videos on troubleshooting the P0190. As far as the EGR issue, that might be unrelated to this. I would tackle the fuel pressure first. If you want to throw cheap parts at it after determining that the pressure is low, I would start with a new fuel filter (wouldn't that take the cake if it was a $10 part??). Be warned that if you pay a professional shop to put a new fuel pump in the tank, you're probably looking at $700 or more, assuming they diagnose it properly to start and don't throw parts at it. Its a crappy job if you try to do it at home w/o a lift and potentially dangerous.
Thanks, my 2003 F-150 decided to throw a P0401 so been looking at videos to fix the problem. Inspection due this month so the misfit problems always seem to find the inspection month. Will do this myself.
Yes this help me alot.and because of these wrong people is why I started working on my own truck.i like my truck and it seems to be fairly easy to work on except for # 8 spark plug it's so hard to get to and it seems to be stuck .seized so it seems to be called.byt you help I failed to connect one of the plugs. Thank you for your video it truly helped
I’m having this same problem with my 99 f150 super duty. Get codes and all. Seeing you do the vacuum test with the solenoid hoses to the EGR valve made me wonder if it were to completely stall maybe that’s an indication that the throttle body adapter is full of carbon and has strict flow. Edit finished watching the video and that’s really what it was. Nice job I got work to do!!
Thanks for the video. I have that code on my 2002 Ford Ranger. Auto Zone says the EGR flow sensor needs replacement. I pulled it off and both hoses have plenty of flow. But I wanted to troubleshoot the system before buying the $30 part. Great video. Thanks
Thank you for the video and explaining everything .I’ve been dealing with issues in my 03 mustang gt and my throttle body was clogged as well .perfect video thank you again
Thank you for delivering a very informative video. I also have a 2002 Ford F150 with this same exact code. I feel better about tackling the problem now. Again, thank you.
Great video, I have a 2003 F150. 262000 miles on it plus. It runs like a champ. I do have the same problem, Right now. I've already done what you said except that last part down where the hoses connect 2 steel tubing. I bet that'll solve the problem. A big note, yes I wouldn't turn my back on any professional mechanic. Most are working under mechanics license. I found that most mechanics don't know they're guessing. And with a little basic knowledge you can fix anything.
You're right about that. I studied up on RU-vid and ended up replacing the entire front suspension, all 4 shocks and brakes and the front hubs. In the past, I would have never considered something that drastic. Must say I was a little nervous taking the front end suspension apart. Also, did some tuneup work and it runs like new now.
I found a flexible drill bit tool called "The Snake-Bit" online for about $30.00. It comes in sizes 12"-21" long and you insert it into your clogged EGR passages to clean out the ports. I will be attempting to clear my low-flow EGR codes this afternoon, it looks like this is the only tool that will best clean out those passages.
Thank you. That guy had me so frustrated that I told myself that I am going to figure out how this entire system works and how to properly troubleshoot it. It took quite a bit of reading, so I decided that I should share what I learned to save others from going through what I had to.
I just hosed everything down with mass air flow sensor , (especially the mass air flow sensor) checked air filter and eliminated my problem, the real aggravation is multiple things can throw the same code
If you have improper vacuum to the EGR, replace the charcoal canister purge valve. Try fuel injector cleaner to clean parts. Get. Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, transmission codes, oxygen sensor test, emissions readiness test, ABS, SRS, and MORE! It has code-connect to diagnose codes. The screen is large and well-lit! Get the USB cable to update it. EBAY has it. It includes cables for OBDI Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and Toyota. The CP9680 is for OBDII only. EGR stands for EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION VALVE. There shouldn't be vacuum at idle at the EGR but at 1500 up and should drop when idling the engine.
Thanks for the information! I have replaced the EGR valve and I’m still throwing the same code - insufficient flow. So now I’ll try the things you showed in the video. When I took the EGR valve off, I did notice a buildup of carbon at the hole where the EGR valve connects. Might have the same problem yours had. I was about to buy a EGR sensor but I’m going to wait before I throw parts at it like I already did. EGR valve might not have been bad 😕
@@Vicos I tried the trick where you put a hose from the vacuum to the EGR valve. It kills the engine each time I do it. So I put a new solenoid on today and I’m STILL getting “insufficient exhaust flow” codes. The only thing left to change is the EGR sensor. Getting frustrated with this.
Great video~ Yes, the EGR ports (2) do get clogged. They are located inside the throttle body coming off the EGR main inlet tube. Get a pick, a set of tube brush cleaners and solvent. Also remember that the hoses to the DPFE sensor are specific... if you still get an error code, swap the hoses and recheck for error codes.... hope this helps someone.
I tell you what man for somebody is not a mechanic you doing a hell of a job you really helped me out alot I got no vacuum I put back into my EGR valve bad it runs roughyou've been more help to me then a Certified mechanic thank you so so much for making this video If you like custom built 4 wheel drive small garden tractor come and check out my bill I apologize my sorry spelling
Howdy James. Glad to hear it helped you. I finally got tired of dealing with incompetent mechanics and decided to figure out how it works myself. I'm sure they are plenty of good mechanics out there. Unfortunately, they don't seem to work in my neck of the woods.
Thank you very much my white vacuum hose head no vacuum that was part of my problem my EGR port for stopped up and now it runs like a champ thank you very very much
Super job. Very informative and detailed explanation. I have the same error code and will be ordering a new egr valve, egr solenoid, egr sensor, idle control valve and bbk throttle body to bring my 98 Expedition back to life. Many Thanks!
Nice display of automotive knowledge.My 99 F250 5.4 engine is shooting codes PO171 and PO174.When I try to accelerate to get on the highway it falls on its face. Could you please give me some information on what to do to fix this problem. Thank You
My wife's car as described below has the smallest of problems with her 1999 Ford Expedition. When she drives for a while. It looses just a annoying bit of power .. She has to keep the accelerator pressed more and just doesn't have the power it should have. I have not seen it do it and don't drive it enough. it seems to do it in wet or dry conditions. Going up hills require a little extra acceleration. Sometimes it staightens out. I would think that it wouldn't be a static condition like excess carbon build up...it is intermitent and seems to follow no obvious pattern at all. I am a moreless retired electronic tech. I worked 7 yard for Sears late 80s and 90s. as an electronic tech.. I understand basic digital gates and microprocessor and course transitors. I have been told my DPFE. Is most likely my problem.. I don't throw parts at things unless necessary. The first thing that usually comes up on scans is O2 sensors.. Most of the time it's questionable if they are bad. If you Kind of point me in the right direction it would be appreciated. Fellow video poster pianostyle100. .
Gotta 2002f-150 also and this past winter increased my problem dramatically, as before when there was dampness or rain in the air my engine wouldn't run properly as to shake at certain speeds and I'd have to give it gas to "shake off" the irregularity.. Then after 20 min. the engine light would go off as if my truck "warmed up" so to speak. But now "it's sick", the engine light stays on and I have to keep the accelerator at certain degrees so the engine doesn't shake like crazy. Nice video, I'm about to see what I have to go through now.. I'll let you guys know.
Perhaps you have one or more bad coil packs. I just had to have one replaced. In the old days there was one high voltage electric coil for all cylinders. Now many engines have an individual coil pack on each cylinder. When you lose one or more, the engine will run rough and you lose power. You need to test each one and replace accordingly. Some are a bear to get to. This is a common failure on F150s of this era. There are many YT vids and forums that discuss how to test. But, keep in mind that I am not a professional mechanic, so take my advice appropriately :)
Great clip, I’ve got the same truck ( year also) ... I get your point about throwing parts at various problems but another school for thought also... I’m very busy and with my schedule don’t often have time to play The Who is the honest mechanic... secondly any part that failing in a 15 year old car may just need that systems parts replaced... one school of thought , especially if it a part that saves fuels consumption
WOW! Great!... I'm having the same issue. I feel like an expert now. I will attempt to diagnose using your outline... Hoping it will turn out to be obvious. Thanks.
u video its very helpful, thanks so mucho because watching u idea my truck pass the smog test in the firsth.. please put more videos about mechanic cars, have a good one...
another easy way to test this egr system. is by removing the cap on top of the egr vacuum solenoid and covering the vent port with your finger. this will send full vacuum to your egr valve. which at idle should cause your car to run rough and almost stall. this will verify the egr valve works and vacuum is good to the egr vac solenoid. only thing would be to make sure your egr vs is electronically functioning. egr= exhaust gas recirculation
Great video. Actually enjoyable to listen to. Been working with my dad to get rid of that P0401 in his 2001 F-150 4.6L. We've replaced the solenoid, EGR valve, and DPFE. Code still appears. Looks like we may have to pull the throttle body.
I hope that worked out for you. I’m a girlie girl on the outside, but I love to tackle auto projects. I removed my throttle body in my 2001 F150 Harley 5.4 last weekend. Getting some of those EGR bolts off was tough, but the rest was fairly simple. Lots of carb cleaner was used!!! I’ve got a fouled plug that I’m terrified to pull #3, so my truck is running rough. These plugs are notorious for breaking. It was throwing a few codes including P0401. If I did this, any dude can!!! I hope you cleared your code.
My truck has been acting up and I can't put my finger on problem; it stalls as if it's not getting gas, I shut off for a few minutes and then it runs fine, sometimes I have to repeat several times, AutoZone said it's a EGR problem, but I think I solved my problem, the truck was very low in water! I don't have a radiator cap but that degas bottle, it will fool you, so be sure to check the simplest things before you put in shop, because they will fix what's not broken or even worse charge you for fixing problem just to pour water in it, and their labor will be for searching for problem
This is a great video! I got a 96 Ranger 3.0 2wd It is throwing the code p1445 Purge Control Valve High Output! So like an idiot i start throwing parts at it like new Purge Valve new Thermistor new vent valve for gas tank new vac lines new Charcoal canister new Gas cap! Basically the whole evap system =\ So i decide to take it for a Professional Diagnostics at RadAir complete car care a well know franchise for Auto repair! I thought good they will find the issue if it's a bad circuit right? Wrong! After 6 hours i get a call from The manager at RadAir and he tells me it's a vacuum leak between the Theristor and Purge valve easy fix all done! So i go to pick up my truck from RadAir and Paid $200.00 and walked out to my truck and started it just too see the Check Engine Light pop right on!! So i walk back in to RadAir and look at the manager and ask why the check engine light is still on?? He walks out with the Mechanic and scan tool and get's the same damn code i just paid him $200 to fix! So the manager starts pulling Vac lines right there in the parking lot and pulls the DPFE hoses off the egr tube and say,s! Your EGR tube is blocked replace it and reset your battery for the check engine light to go off! Then just walks away =\ So after 6 hours they could not find or fix the issue with my truck but charged me for it! =\ Got the new EGR tube yesterday will be installing on Monday and if the Check Engine Light don't go off i may be calling action news on RadAir for Fraud!
I got a totally different evaluation from the diagnostic test at advanced auto, p0302 cylinder 2 misfire & p0316 misfire on startup first 1000 revolutions.
I was getting a 332 code on my Ranger. I removed the EGR valve and shoved a coat hanger in there. Apparently, there was a block of carbon in there. I managed to push it through and after some rough idle and clink clunk, it was chewed up by the engine. After that, the check engine light did not come back on.
Hi Walter, Thank you for the very kind words. I have hours of raw footage. But, because of health issues this year, and the backlog in normal work they caused, I am way behind in producing anything. Hopefully before this year is over I will get some more out.
I have a hunch about these throttle bodies and how to clear them as the one you illustrated in the end of your video. After removing the EGR..ILL BET if a person took old style gumout carburetor cleaner and sprayed about 1 teaspoon of that in the egr opening and just let that sat and reinstall the EGR and wait about 4 hours, ILl bet that would clear those two holes in the throttle body. I just used that gmout carb cleaner on a 60 Cadillac 4bbl carb I rebuilt and that stuff dissolves!!!
+Earl Guyton if possible you want to remove deposits as best as possible, and yes carb cleaner helps, soaking it and putting it back on without cleaning will result in massive deposits being sucked into your engine...
Someone with the knowledge, skill and certifications should start a channel where they go around EXPOSING these SCAM SHOPS as I call them. I'm NO SAE certified mechanic but I've been wrenching on cars for close to 46 years and nothing makes my blood boil more than hearing friends and relatives getting RIPPED OFF. Getting up-sold on stuff that they ABSOLUTELY DON'T NEED or having repairs that were NOT done but they were charged for-albeit at exorbitant rates no less. Yes, i know you can report them, blah, blah, blah but they usually take forever to get around to doing something about it and then it's generally a slap on the wrist-type of reprimand or a letter informing them of a complaint lodged against them. This channel could do a couple of things such as giving two thumbs up to shops that are legit and recommended and outing ones that are SCAMS. Come on, yougsters, who wants to be a You Tube star???
shops are in business to make money. how you spend your money is your responsibility. considering there is a youtube for every problem ever encountered id much rather encourage people to do their research so as not to agree to pay for things that dont need or to spot a bullshitting know nothing mechanic. plus shitty shops are already exposed. just read some google reviews. nowadays you dont get away with ripping very many people off before you get smeared on the internet
That's one awesome video but scared hell out of me. Trying to keep my 98 F-150 alive until June but it just failed inspection after I had the GEM replaced. I am 76 on fixed income. Damn so many things. I failed po455 & po401.
Remove the vacuum hose to the EGR and increase the RPM'S to 1500. There should be vacuum at 1500 but it should drop to 0 at idle. If there's improper vacuum, replace the vacuum regulator. At 1500 RPM'S, with the hose disconnected, if the engine idles rough, it could be the EGR valve itself.
