Hi..Thank You for the diagram and explanation...I have van that needs purge vacuum hose to be replaced.... I couldn't find a video for my van but your explanation gave me the principle of how the purge works.... I do the research and show my brother to help me fix my van and for the hard work, I just take it to the professional mechanic....it just helps me to understand labor and cost.... Also I'm hoping this will be the final fix to pass smog test Be Bless!!!
Brian your videos are always much appreciated, no need to debate whether you want to go with short or long videos based on content. do whats right for you we'll understand. your efforts go into these videos and you deserve to be compensated.
Brian, Thank you for that white board lesson, and your time. The details about how the system works is one reasons why your video is exceptional. Knowing how the system works helps immensely. I am a middle aged woman; so, I was not raised helping my dad fix things. Your video is good for two reasons: I can attempt to fix my own vehicle in my driveway. If I cannot accomplish the task (sometimes I don't have the muscle required, or the tools) at least I have an idea of what the problem actually is when I bring my vehicle to an automotive shop. As a woman, over the years I have been told false information more than once when bringing my vehicles to mechanics I did not know. Although, most mechanics are nice honest people. Thank you.
Man I just found your channel...and respect how you opened up and said let me show you how to test it if you want to know and go about your business 💪🏾💪🏾. I watched who show after that!!!
Hello, I must say thank you. I have a silverado with the code 449. I had some damaged lines so I replaced those and the code persisted. So I removed the solenoid and wasn’t sure how to test it without a costly scan tool, I rely on blue driver and although that’s an awesome tool, it’s only can give information, not test, etc. So I found this video. I went to amazon, ordered the tester, got it today, did the test procedure you describe and BOOM.... I have confirmation the solenoid is faulty. Although it confirmed a bad solenoid, it was a relief to have the answer. Will get the part, replace and go on with life. Thanks for this video, I am so relieved. Also, got a new tool to add to my box. I’m new to the industry. Will be starting tech school most likely this fall. Depending on scheduling. Funny thing, I went to university and obtained a masters degree in psychology. What a mistake. I should have went to tech school first. I had this desire to work on cars. To have a problem and fix it. Added with my love for all things automotive, I should have followed my heart and not my mind. I’m not going in to this for the money, I’m doing this because I absolutely love working on vehicles. I already know my way around vehicles, I have two vehicles approaching 200k, a truck and a Mazda. I’ve rebuilt all of the suspension, replaced the AC comp, and did a complete brake job on the Mazda. On the Silverado, I’ve done the fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel lines, blower motor, oil leak on oil pan, diagnosed a parasitic draw, replaced the suspension and brakes. All though this is easy work, I’ve learned a lot. I’m looking forward to getting started. Once I graduate, I’m blessed with the ability to start my own business. I’m planning to buy a work truck that can carry all my tools and supplies with room for common parts, equip the truck to handle everything short of engine out and start off as a mobile mechanic doing light maintenance and repairs. As I gain experience, get further training and I feel confident in my competency, then I’ll add more complex services to my offerings. I’m aware of the challenges this entails. I’m aware I’ll have rough days. I’m aware customers can be... um....you know. One thing I also know, I can’t get from here to my goal without traversing the path that gets me their. All the while learning along the way. I’ve already had people have me work on their vehicles. They see me work on mine and want me to work on theirs. I actually have a regular customer now, a veteran. I work on his truck. Nice guy. I work for parts and lunch. Don’t charge labor. I figure I’m getting as much out of the experience as he is from having his vehicle fixed. When I’m finished with school, I won’t be able to work for free, but service persons of all types will get a good discount. My absolute biggest goal? I’m gonna be that repairman that has a waitlist because everyone knows, I’m honest to the core. I absolutely will never say “yeah, I can do that” if I have the slightest inclination I won’t be able to. I also won’t use scare tactics, if a car is seeping oil, it doesn’t usually need fixed that moment (with rare exceptions). I’m building my vision on honesty and quality. By doing those things right, I won’t have to worry about if I’ll have enough work. Long winded, I know. Started down this path over a year ago. Best decision I’ve made. Looking forward to a lot more exciting repairs.
Hey Brian, thanks for this. After my dad passed away, I got his Chevy S10 with the 4.3 engine. It only has 51,000 miles, and it is a money pit. The other day, I got the P0442 code. My mechanic said, it's probably the vent valve. He told me, he has never had to replace the purge valve, but the vent valves always go. I'm gonna tackle this one myself. If it does turn out to be the purge valve, I'll probably have my mechanic tackle that. But thanks for a great video, and yep, I just subscribed to you and gave you a thumbs up. Thanks !
Thanks for showing how simple it can be to test a part, it's the first time Ive commented on any of the many videos I've watched on RU-vid, I'll make sure to clean mine up before I test it.
Thanks Brian, I appreciate the detail and time you take to put these videos out. Your amongst the best on RU-vid up there with, ETCG, Scanner Danner, Eric O to name a few. Also your just a cool guy!
Brian next time you run across a bad evap canister try taking the lid off , cleaning it with compressed air then spray wd 40 or kroil down the tube. That freed up the solenoid and mine started working again. It must be all the dust and debris causing the solenoid to malfunction.
11:50 hit GOLD with me - did NOT know that for vacuum leak codes. TY!!!!!!!!!!! HUGE time savings - '03 S10 FINALLY is working. BEST VIDEO EVER FOR EXPLAINING IN SIMPLE TERMS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I just pulled a 456 code on my 2013 Ford Focus. I "smoked" the system and found no leaks. Checked the purge solenoid valve for operation only to find it leaking. Replaced the valve, all's good. Really enjoy your video's Brian. Makes one take time and solve the problem without changing out parts. Thanks.
+1 for the whiteboard markup. You did an excellent job forming the basis to how this system works. So many videos focus on specifics which don't relate from person to person due to vehicle differences. Yours sets a framework to start from for investigating these issues. Awesome job!
Thx. Good diagram. I had to replace both the purge and vent valves. Both were toast. Didn’t realize that vent valve was so easy to reach on the old Tahoe’s so thanks for showing us how to swap it out in one of your videos !
thanks brian for info having same problem with my 04 Silverado gonna ck it out tomorrow like fixing stuff myself to keep others from messing it up you make it easier to understand keep the good work
Outstanding! Brevity, clarity, visual aids and yet a complete system breakdown. I liked, subscribed and will watch more of your videos. Thanks for the hard work to help others.
Another great video, very informative. I see a lot of the newer silverados, tahoes, and suburbans(as well as their gmc counterparts) come in to the dealership for the p0449 and p0455 codes 9 out of 10 times it's going to be a bad vent valve. I always test the circuit along with the valve by using control functions on my scan tool because that 1 out of 10 times it could be a frayed wire, blown fuse, loose terminal, etc. but not everybody has access to a scan tool with control functions. That's why this is still a great video for the DIYer at home. You can put it into terms that people with little mechanical experience can understand.
Good video Thanks Brian. I remove 2 or 3 of these every month and disassemble them and b;low out the dirt inside. I have taken several spoons full of dirt out of some. One car, I believe it was a honda, had a remote breather on the end and sucked from inside a frame rail way over on the other side of the car. The hose had a cup full of small stones plugging it. We drive a lot of gravel roads here. I think there is a kit to reposition the valve to under the hood where there isn"t as much dust.
Great explanation of the evap system for a weekend mechanic like me.I currently have an evap issue and now I know what to look for. Yes, I did replace the gas cap so onward.
Always check your hoses, I found out on my Tahoe the hose that connected in between the canister and the fuel vent valve was completely cracked open at the ends.i replaced the hose and that fixed the problem and I spent nothing but my time and had a piece of fuel hose kicking around, so watch out.
Thank you. I've been trying to fix this on my pathfinder by trail and error, I changed the vent valve and i changed my gas cap but still evap error. Pretty annoying check engine light that I just learned to live with, but with your video i feel like have a much better understanding of the whole system to figure it out. My mechanic friend tried to explain this to me before and ive googled info on it before and just been left utterly confused, but your video was so good I feel like now I can teach someone how it works now. Thank you and subscribed.
Man I think you’re my favorite go to guy to find a diy video. Do more diesels please 6.0 powerstroke and 5.9 12 valve if possible. Mods would be cool as well on the diesels. Thank you for not saying pointless stuff and dragging videos out by talking like a dbag.
+briansmobile1 lol didn't know that you knew who I was. I hear my subs talking about you and thought I would come by and check out your content. Good to meet you Brian. Talk later
+ScannerDanner I follow both your channels. Just had the Evap and Temperature control motor fixes on a 2006 Sierra. Also did a nice super fast IAC Valve diagnose on a 2000 Accord thanks to Scanners "plug the hole" trick. Yall are great keep it up. Stay gold.
I've been in school for automotive been doing it for years and I must say it sure sounds like you've got a good working experience with the knowledge and people should benefit by your free education buddy
so if I understood correctly the relationship between the vent solenoid and purge solenoid the vent solenoid stays open when engine is off so you can add fuel to the fuel tank while the purge solenoid stay closed then when you start the engine opposite occurs the vent shuts and the purge opens to draw gasoline fumes to the intake ? I think I have a vacuum leak or dead oxygen sensor, my gas mileage is very poor.
Evans Cheruiyot how that would be a no if engine is off they would not be open why would they be open they wouldn't be working if they were open... you need to do a little bit more studying... if the car is not running and the are open you're going to be venting gas fumes into the atmosphere now is that something we want to occur with what this apparatus system is supposed to do?
Evans Cheruiyot you see that's because you don't tighten up the gas cap probably screwed on wrong that or you have more problem than what you really looking at... it doesn't just have to be during fueling there could be another smaller vacuum leak somewhere within this system... and you're just attributing it to be a fueling issue when you're filling up the car of course you are venting a certain amount of fumes just by the fact that you are fueling the vehicle that's a given that's a closed system list of vehicles is running and that's the only times in EVAP Is.open or storeing or release it is going to intake into the motor not the atmosphere... and when it does that the vent valve is going open because you have to have the atmosphere go through there to moving around from where you want it is that valve is closed the atmosphere is not going to help push through the system the fumes the hydrocarbons you either going to send it one way or they're going to put it in storage with a car off the vent valve would be releasing the fumes into the atmosphere if the purge valve is open when the engine is off it's going to be releasing fumes into the atmosphere if your gas tank cap is loose or missing lines are you have a brake leak in the system it's going to be venting fuel fumes into the atmosphere... and I just ate intake password would be introduced into the cylinder heads which would go into cylinder be compressed by the piston... and most the time that was referred to before your mass airflow sensor right... In the bellows... it would have to be measured with a rest of everything gmjust like the rest of the gas is getting sucked into your engine... so I got to be calculated out by the computer
I see okay, my gas cap rubber gasket is dried out and has cracks so I will be changing that for sure, it has activated a check engine light a few times already and every-time I had to turn off engine and re-tighten the cap after that I suppose it time for a vacuum test since vent solenoid is new.
Just appreciate the sharing of knowledge. I have watched so many of your videos and even if I'm not doing a similar repair I really appreciate the problem solving aspect and how to approach a car repair. Sincerely, Thank You.
I have a 750i BMW, when we try to fill the gas tank it will only allow a small amount of gas before it cuts the flow off and it takes forever to fill it up. I suspect the vent or the vent valve is likely the problem. What do you think? How difficult is it to fix/ or exchange? Thank you for the great video 😊
I already had a good ideal of how it all worked, but kept forgetting names, & etc. The way you explain everything put total confidence in me as I will be tackling this project this upcoming weekend of checking & possibly changing out the pressure valve or solenoid. If you happen to see this or anyone who may know,. I was just wandering if a smoke test could be done on pressure control valve :; vent valve: Thank-You Calvin
Good video, great explanation. Most of the ones I've had off were just dirty. Blow that old valve out and it will likely work, should also take out the foam filter inside and clean it too. . I;ve done lots of these. I just did an 08 Buick lucerne, and dumped half a cup of dust out of the valve and canister filter. I've seen trucks where you have to remount that valve to under the hood to keep them clean.
i think your video was great i have watched so many videos of people that post there fixes and there a a joke i worked in a shop for 18 years and you actually can explain and do things right
I think the charcoal canister should have an xtra hose going to the center of hood with a piezzio igniter and the piezzio igniter operates off the windshield wiper so when the wipers on the bugs flying over the hood burn up before they hit the windshield....just thinking here.....
great explanation, but i believe in order for engine vacuum to pull HC's from the charcoal canister, both the purge and vent solenoids should be opened at the same time.
happy543210 You're right. Thank you for pointing that out. They're pulsed in relation to the engine RPM. I focused on the evaporative properties associated with vacuum like in air conditioning systems and I failed to include that air wash is also used. I'll have to do a separate video on that. In the mean time, ADPTraining has a good video on that here → ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IzfR84T6pBY.html Check it out. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video. I have a 2007 Sub with only 74 miles. Check engine light turned on with OBD code P0446 (Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit 1/1. I've replaced the gas cap, vapor vent canister valve, vapor jumper wire and the Emissions Vapor Canister Purge Valve Solenoid EVAP Vent ( I don't think it's necessary but I did it anyway). Cleared it and the check engine light is gone but after driving 93 miles, the I/M is still not ready with a combo drive of city and fwy. Drove it for another mile and after 6 cycles, when I ran the OBD at 94 miles to see if it's I/M ready, unfortunately I see the same "pending" P0446 code despite driving it up to 110 miles hoping it will clear on it's own. So I decided to erase the pending code/OBD and did the same thing again. Drove it up to 92 miles without check engine, still not I/M ready and at 94 miles later it's still not ready and the "pending" p0446 code is back. Replaced the vapor vent canister valve, vapor jumper wire again just in case I have a bad part, but unfortunately pending P0446 code is back. I'm hesitating on replacing the vapor canister/charcoal cause I don't have issue filling up gas and no gas odor around the area too. Could it be the another bad vent valve? fuel tank pressure solenoid? I hope not... cause I know this is pretty common on the 2006 but not on the 2007. Cleared it for the 3rd and 4th time, gas level is between 3/4 or 1/2 and the pending code is on after 10 miles but still not I/M ready. Should I just keep going and repeat the drive cycle until it clears or do I need to change the ftp and the VC charcoal too? I'd really appreciate yours suggestion.
HEY!!! Ive done that blow test! And it worked...."Keep blowing, keep blowing, keep blowing, keep blowing. OK sir we are going to charge you with Driving Under the Influence..." Stay gold.
Brian, your videos are BY FAR the most informative of the few times I've used this method for DIY repairs. I watched your video on p0449 vent valve testing, and learned how the system operates, however..... I have a 2012 Chevy Impala with code p0496, and despite the knowledge that these lights come on for specific and/or important reasons, the car starts and runs perfect EXCEPT after turning it off to fuel up. Then when starting, it turns over for approximately 3-5sec before it fires, followed by a couple seconds of erratic idle, then runs like a champ until fueling again. I am unsure of which component to begin with on my evap system (vent valve, purge solenoid, canister, etc), though I'd prefer to start with the least expensive. I possess very little equipment/testing tools, but have the essentials for parts removal. Any info or tips you'd possibly be willing to share would be greatly appreciated. Again, impressive and informative presentations you've compiled, great job. ;)
I do appreciate this video, and your additional candid responses to the information that you provided. I do appreciate your follow-up that you included while the video was playing. This video was very helpful in diagnosing a problem that I was having with an error code 0446 on one of my vehicles. :-)
Thanks for the insights and your clear explanation the problem is knowing where all this components are located in an engine also time to find the problems some mechanics want a lot of money from less than twenty minutes job or even make people replace parts that have no problems at all.
Thanks Brian, for this video !!! You are one of the 4-5 ones, I even ask anything here in you tube, most of the people are kind of like " guessing mechanics" ;o). Well, I have a good one for you today: I am going crazy with my Mustang 2004 , 3. 8 litre engine! Idle is so, so sky high almost all the time, after I changed fuel pump to 255 lph, and bigger throttle body, 70 mm?? I had "check the engine" light coming on, even before that, saying large vacuum leak somewhere??, and " check your fuel cap"?? I did change fuel cap, no help??Now, codes are: P0507 IA control higher than expected??, ...sure know that, Idle goes first to 2500, and after 20 -30 secs goes down to 1100 -1200, never lower??, and the other code is: P0405, Exhaust gas recirculation sensor a Circuit Low?? I did change DPFE sensor year ago, tested it now, actually bought a new one, no help, will return it, have changed TPC, IAC sensor, new EGR valve, did check leaks under hood, vacuum hoses, no leaks, did check canister solenoid in rear, seems fine, 12 V coming in, closes, when 12 V applied, did take out canister purge valve, in front, under fender in Mustang, could not really test it, like here, opened it, cleaned it, put it back, 12 V coming in??? Could that be open all the time?? And make idle go high like that?? Will change that next, after I return that new DPFE sensor, did not need that =) Going crazy here, pelase, help meeeeee ! Could there be a leak above gas tank?? What do I do next?? Smoke test?? Thanks, youtheman =)
Good Morning Brian, first of all I want to Thank you for your Awesome Videos! I just replaced my Knock sensors on my 2005 chevy Silverado crew cab 5.3 and right after I finished I have a code P0449, as you know I had to remove the intake and also the hose to the purge solenoid, my question is could I have possibly installed the hose wrong to the purge solenoid and have a leak?The hose going to the solenoid had a funky clip that I could not figured out well. Thanks in advance for a response!
Awesome video, my 2004 Suburban was throwing a P0466. Swapped out the vent and the purge. Most diagrams showed the round vents, which was very confusing, I did however find the rectangular box vent and all is well.
My Van has been running rich for a year, several mechanics haven't known why, (or just don't care) After watching a million RU-vid videos I now think it's purge valve or vent valve, I ordered purge already so starting there, well after already changing DPFE. But I have a Lot of pressure in the tank, that releases when I open the gas cap. So I think one of those. It's a 2002 Ford e150 with 5.4
Brian wish you would have shown how to disconnect the hose from the solenoid. I cant figure out if you squeeze the flat areas together or if there is something you push in to release the lock . so I am just stuck on a sunday morning.Really enjoy your videos...
Wow. I just replaced the vent valve solenoid only 2010 F150 after 2 years of just clearing it from my dash cause I did not know what it was and I knew Ford dealership would screw me. It was such an easy fix and 2 plus years I just been resetting the engine light. Wow. Thanks for explaining it to me. Do you think any damage was caused due to waiting so long?
Thanks for this video ! I have a constant gas smell when I drive my '02 DOHC 3.0 Taurus. I changed the gas cap last week, and that didn't fix it. Now that I've watched this video, I think the problem that I'm having is the vapor vent valve. The other problem is that I have no Check Engine light. I'll check the code reader again tomorrow, but the last time I checked for codes, there wasn't any codes on it.
Great video. Best explanation of how the whole Evap system works. Glad it's on a '03 Silverado 5.3 since that's my truck too. . I had an P0446 Code. I replaced the vent valve and the code went away....however, I got a P0449 code showing up after a few minutes. I replaced the gas cap with an AC Delco and the code persists. Any suggestions or videos on how to figure this out if the vent valve has been replaced?
