Here's some Amazon Links with more info on the three tools used in this episode. Scantool → www.amazon.com/... Tone Generator → www.amazon.com/... Power Probe III → www.amazon.com/... P0449 With Good Vent Valve
You're a wizard. Already replaced my vent valve solenoid, replaced pigtail going to it, gas cap, traced vent line from solenoid to intake and all is good. I'm now going to test voltage at each wire and see if I can get it to work doing what you suggested. Thanks for the video.
Awesome! And I'm the idiot because I removed that fuse to replace a blown one. I couldn't find out anything that 4ws was used for, and I knew I didn't have 4 wheel steering! The problem didn't show up until I replaced a faulty purge valve. Thank you so much!
Well dam, thanks again Brian for the chatter during videos. I was literally putting on my coat to go pick up a part, and I remembered - hey, this guys truck - he used the 4WS 15 amp fuse for his lighter/radio!! I assumed 4WS was 4 Wheel Steering etc. HAH!! I put in the fuse, and no more P0449, also no more C0245!! Well - thats what I get for ASSuming LOL. I've learned again, always read all the words and pages and phrases and diagrams. Stay gold.
This is an older video but I spent two days chasing a P0449 in my Avalanche. I finally spiced a wire from the fuse box-the fuse you found for the solenoid-and finally cleared the error code. I replace both solenoid valves and chased this error for two days. Thank you I too stuck with it because you inspired me.
I have one (a cheaper one) that is normally used for tracing Ethernet wires thru a patch panel but I have used it to trace direct shorts, verify wire connection, etc. I love it. Just a word of wisdom, if youre using it on house wire (romex) please power down the circuit before you go around and messing with the wires.
Awesome! The most frustrating always turns out to be the simplest. Had a customer with a noise concern when he turned the steering wheel with the ac on that had gradually gotten worse over the past week. We found a severely worn p/s belt that looked like chocolate cake with a fudge stripe from the side and a swollen battery. Took care of the belt noise and changed the battery, listened for any other noises and gave it a clean bill of health. Customer hopped in the vehicle and spent 10 minutes before he left turning knobs and the steering wheel, and when he felt satisfied he left. 30 minutes later he comes back saying the noise is back, and sure enough there was a noise but not one we heard in the shop. I had him open the hood to look while he turned the wheel and heard the noise clearly, sounded like a low frequency cat purr. Had me confused at first because that wasn't a noise I'd heard from under a hood before so I shoved my head under the hood to listen and found that the lid of the air box wasn't latched in the back.... I couldn't stop laughing 😂... turns out he had changed his own air filter and didn't close the air box correctly. It just seemed hilarious with all the racking of the brain going on that it was that simple
marv3028 I swear, it's those moments that really keep you humble enough to double check and look when you think you've covered everything. That desire and eye for detail make or break you as a tech. Great story- thanks!
If you've done much wrenching at all, you've been there. If you've never done anything wrong, you've never done anything. I put an intake manifold back on once and left the appropriately sized cut T-Shirt laying in the lifter valley. I had it there to catch all the previous gasket material that I had scraped off. I remembered to take out the balled up paper towels from the intake runners but not the rag for some reason (rushing likely). Got it off and remedied before the sealant set up and was able to re-use the gaskets but it was a hard lesson anyway. Wish that was the only screw-up I ever did.......nope.
@@briansmobile1 That's why in the aviation business we require inspectors to double check work a lot of the time, especially on critical systems. Adds expense but adds reliability! I wish I could have someone always inspect my work, but alas, most of the time we work alone in our garages and shops.
Had a similar problem on 2005 5.3L Sierra Crew Cab. The P0449 showed up after the truck sat for a few days. I had replaced the evaporation vent solenoid 5 years ago when that coil opened up. But this coil had 20 ohms, and moved freely. Just no 12 vdc, only 2.5 volts on orange wire. I thought maybe it was a switched 5 v circuit until I saw your video. Problem turns out a chipmunk had partially chewed thru the orange wire some time ago, and now I could see the green corrosion set in, and that section of wire eventually burned open. Spliced in a new 2" piece and now the solenoid works. Thanks for your video.
INDIANA BOB Thanks Bob! I've been through a lot in my short tour so far, and that's the only way I know of to come out on the other side and feel good about it.
I just had this 449 code on my 05 2500hd. Orig GM canister/ vent valve was so cheap, and so easy to get at, I just went ahead and replaced it, hoping for the best. I cleared the code, and it came right back. Replaced the gas cap. Cleared code. Code did not come back. Lesson learned. Lol
Thanks mate great video! We don't have many of these in Australia, I've got an 03 5.3 silverado. I wasted a full day on it. It never had the 4ws fuse!!!! Thanks again for the vid much appreciated
1 more reason the you’d get a P0994: I found I had a leak at the tank where the hose connects to the charcoal canister. So basically, the PCM thought the vent solenoid wasn’t closing, when it was actually a huge air leak that made it seem that way. Thanks for showing how to diagnose the entire circuit. Between you and Ratchets And Wrenches , I know everything about my evap system!
You have to watch this video. He went deep in diagnosis. Lessons learned there, and it turned out to be simple...but is simple also easy? Not always! What a plot twist!
That's my problem. No voltage at vent solenoid, checked fuse and it is good so been scratching my head. So glad you addressed this. Will have to try your fix tomorrow. So frustrated. Thank God for this video.
this is why so many Mechanics hate wiring, it could be a bad wire or fuse which is the easiest fix to something as frustrating a dirty contact that takes all day to find like you had, hardly any money to be made cause there's no scale to go by, if you charge someone by the hour you'll never see them again nor their family or friends either.
Hey Brian, just wanted to reply that you're a genius. Your ideal work. I was plagued with this problem for over a year spend a whole bunch of money and still could not fix the problem. I use your advice and it worked. Dude you are great thank you.
Nice find! I actually had a brand new Chrysler 300 that had a passenger front headlamp that wouldn't work. Ended up being the fuse would push the spade connecter down into the tipm instead of sliding into it to male the connection Ended up finding it doing a wire wiggle test. Under the tipm (total integrated power module).
Curt Simshauser So did the connector click in from below once you found it? My brand new RAM driver window switch went hay wire this summer. Turns out it wasn't clicked in from the factory. I went to pull it out and the harness slipped right off before I could depress the release tab. Once clicked in, it's been fine. Glad I tried that before taking it in for warranty! It's no wonder Chrysler has those red tabs of pain on their connectors. They've got systemic problems in production. It's probably too loud, or the hearing protection is too good to hear the "click." I would use the electronic hearing protection like I use in shooting competitions.
If removing and installing the fuse several times doesn't do the trick.....try making just the one blade of the fuse a little thicker with a tiny smear of solder (on the dead side of the fuse only). Also you might want to spray a bit of electrical contact cleaner inside where the fuse goes, before putting the fuse back in. Most electrical issues are easy to fix. The real problem is finding it. The "QUICK FIX" may take hours to find ! Good job using your great diagnostic skills. I know you had to feel good when you finally traced it down.
Great video dear sir as always. You fixed it with intelligence. Great use of the tone generator! Electrical problems are always interesting to solve. Keep up nice work mate. Regards,
This was the problem with my 06 Tahoe. I noticed a thin piece of metal had been shoved down in the fuse socket along side one arm of the fuse. I pulled it out, not even thinking about why it would be there, and immediately got the p0449 code when I started the vehicle. It seems one side of the fuse socket is kind of stretched out, and needs that additional metal to make contact. I had thrown the little piece of metal away, but I put some copper wire down the socket along with the fuse and the code has not come back.
Nice job Brian. I have had issues in the past with the "add a wire tap" in the fuse box, those cause alot of slop in the fuse connection causing intermittent connection. Thanks for the link on the tone generator, looks like a nice tool to have in the box.
m ph Oh for sure I need one! I hope Brian got the commission when I picked up another tool. I put it in my checkout box, but didn't buy it until months later.
DE Nichols Thanks! I get a tiny kick back if you've clicked one of my links on the same computer withing 24 hours of checking out. It's like watching an add at the beginning of the video without skipping it. I get pennies, but pennies add up. I can appreciate if you don't want to sit through an add. That's why I leave the option to skip them even though it stunts my income from RU-vid. I hate commercials too, but if I can make a nickel here and there doing this then it gives me the financial ability to improve what I'm doing. I'm working like crazy on that with building a new studio right now with a lift. You can't provide for a family and try to help the world for free at the same time. This whole pennies here and there is a great solution so far, even if I catch crap from people who think and say earning a living indirectly while helping people for free is "selling out."
m ph You're welcome! I was thrilled when I found one for under $300. When I bought mine I was broke and flagging hours and buried in medical bills from my oldest daughters seizures. It was like putting on a pair of shoes. I could actually get somewhere when the going got tough.
As soon as I saw yoU were leaning towards a bad fuse leg connection , I knew I could honestly say …..even if I knew how to ,and had traced 100’s of electrical pathways to a fault before ,that idve never figured this out without a ton of luck being involved … and even then it’d proBably be that suddenly I fixed it wiThout knowing exactly what I did to fix it it lol..
I have a 2007 silverado classic work truck 4.3L motor. Evap Vent solenoid not closing while truck is running and throwing a po446 and 449 codes, so no pressure is building up in the evap system. I checked for power at the rear vent solenoid plug in and I have continuous 12v there when key is in the on position. When I supply 12 volts to the vent solenoid only, it clicks, opens and closes and works properly. Purge valve was replaced and working properly. I have zero leaks in the evap system, its tight. Took the charcoal cannister out and blew it out with air to clean any dust. I have good continuity from the vent solenoid white ground wire, all the way to where the wiring harness plugs into the computer, I did not back probe the white ground wire, I unplugged the harness from the ECM and checked it from there all the way back. Could this be the ECM that is not commanding the ground wire to open and close to the vent solenoid??? Did I miss a test along the way that could cause these codes??? I am very much leaning towards a new ECM... Any help in the situation is much appreciated, please let me know our thoughts. By the way, I do not have a scan tool, i'm just a back yard semi mechanic that knows enough to be dangerous. Lol..
How long after the truck is running does the canister valve close. I checked just like you showed in the other video off the truck and works. I checked for a positive lead under the bed and it checks out good. I turned my ignition on and unplugged the canister and nothing changes . Does not close . I blew air though it. Thanks
I got error code P0498; valve was stuck closed and burning extremely hot to the touch. Replaced the valve, cleared the code and then got same code P0498 and the brand new valve was again stuck closed and burning hot. Checked fuse it was okay. Think it’s a short in the harness or perhaps bad ECM. 2020 Silverado Trail Boss Custom. Probably caused by overfilling. Any idea what else I could check / replace?
I got a question for you should that vent valve be in a close position all of the time and then when current is applied it opens?I removed one from my vehicle I suspect it to be bad I can blow through it all the time when I apply current I can hear the solenoid click inside and I can no longer blow through it the new one that I purchased it is an a close date all of the time and only when I apply current does it open and immediately it closes when current is removed.
man, garage kept has some rhyme and reason eh? my o2 sensor was acting up, and this plug/unplug did the same thing, fixed it like a champ! why would he replace a perfectly good part with another? is he a collector? it's the assumption and the "load up the parts bazooka! ready, aim, fire!"
How does it vent without a ground so u can gas the thing up .i have blew out all lines . But my white wire has no ground to open the vent valve . My orange wire is hot with ignition on . I can’t gas this truck up in less than 20 minutes.
I am currently having this same code 0449 on my 2008 silverado 5.3 the evap vent valve tests good and so does the purge valve at the top of the motor the wiring for the purge valve has 12v and ground with key on the evap vent wiring has 12v and open with key off then with key on i have 1.2v accross both wires any other ideas. i have traced the lines with a toner also and the 12v wire (red) goes to the fuse box with a good fuse and the other goes into one of the main harnesses for the computer located at the front uf the truck behind the radiator
Dude, I wanna take you my truck. Similar problems, dealer said the PCM was bad, put in 3 new PCM's and it's still doing the same thing. Changed all 02 sensors, and now my turn signals in the back don't even work. The bulbs are brand new, they're the correct ones, I even swapped them around because the bulb housing has 3 bulbs, brakes, signal, and reverse for an 06 dodge ram 1500. The brakes work when I hit the brakes but the turn signals don't. When I pull my turn signal relay down it flashes fast, when I push it up to make a right turn it flashes normal, but neither signals in the back work. I have been following wires, have taken it to electricians, they all tell me the same thing, PCM is bad. I tell them I've replaced it 3 times and they assure me. thing is, I got the first one from an after market place sold it really cheap, guy told me that they sold me a faulty one, I went to the dealer and got one, slapped it on and same shit, another electrician told me that the dealer game me a faulty one, so I go and get a new one, they test out the one I gave back to them and they told me that they didn't see anything wrong with it but they were cool about it and gave me another one. Same thing, took it to a third electrician, he calls me up the next day and says, I have to change the PCM... I'm about to give up lol.
thanks Brian! I have the vent valve too and out of the box in the unpowered state i can blow through the valve... in the powered state, i am assuming the valve closes (and is controlled this way by the PCM)?
wouldnt it of made sense that where you pierced the wire and you didnt get any voltage to that spot but had power running through the fuse that there would be an open within that foot of wire or so? but nice find man
good work - but even your persistence wont stop some of those from publicly shaming mechanics for over charging to replace a fuse.....I'm not one of those but certainly people don't understand the greatest effort and knowledge can be drawn by the troubleshooting phase, not the repair phase.
im working on a 2003 buick rendezvous with a p0449 and the p0300. I tested the old vent solenoid on the tank it it was bad so I replaced it. Now the code still comes up even after I clear it for the 0449. I tested the voltage at the solenoid and it is the same on the white and the red wires on the plug while it is running. I checked the valve under the hood as well with voltage and the thing clicks so it is still good. Im at a loss on this one. Im more of a dodge and ford guy myself. any ideas.
Are these safe to use with the car computer connected etc? I'm trying to tracing some wires on my Saab's AC control side of relay base but have no wiring diagram
wooo weee It's a spiral stripe dent down the driveline from abuse or negligent operation. You get it from off-roading blind, ignoring your spotter, or just abusing a truck. If the folks at Three Rivers didn't make them so well, it would just be a bent or broken driveline.
I put a new evap switch on my 2001 Yukon. Still getting code. find I am not getting power to connector. Does the 2001 have a fuse for this? Can't find it anywhere.
Sondown57 It really depends on what the dirt consists of. If it's corroded- replace it. If it's just dirt and very dark mineral stuff like this I use electrical contact cleaner like this CRC stuff. → www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BXOGNI/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000BXOGNI&linkCode=as2&tag=httpwwwyou00f-20&linkId=ZRDJ6IHAZR74TMMM It's nice because the straw gets the pressure and cleaner into where it's needed without flash flooding everything with a wash of gunk and cleaner.
