Also see Timney Trigger install in this same P80 for more tips. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eyLRGwA4VvQ.html Also see my P80 slide creep problems ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kP2c-3BD5VY.html
@Quinten Wallace I your trigger easy to pull like it is not even pushing the striker to the rear? If so your crossbar maybe too low. Or safety plunger is not being depressed by your shark fin to allow the striker to go forward….
I built a p80 over a year ago and did everything they said polish this polish that. Never worked so it’s been in a drawer since. Just tried this and fixed it in 5 min..
This absolutely helped me! I built mine and brought it to the range and when I fired it it ended up shooting till the mag was empty with one trigger pull and the trigger never reset. Thank you!
i built my first p80 today and had the same problem. i figured it out after a few mins of messing with it and understanding what was going on. kinda wish this video would have been the first thing that popped up when i googled it. thanks so much for making this video.
My man you save my life, I spent 4 hours trying to figure out why my gun was not resetting after putting a new trigger. It was exactly what you just pointed out. It took me a few tries using the vise press and bingo. I went ahead and polished everything and now that mofo is smooth as silk tie, thanks a lot, this is some golden information brother!!!!
Just before you made this video I had the same issues 🤦 Sitting home nursing a new ACL and meniscus I thought “let me pull that p80 out today that was running great with a Hyve trigger and all of a sudden quit”… A year later I was scratching my head again not being able to get it to run this afternoon . I went to the interweb and found your video, the community needed it and thank you sir!
The same thing happened to me with a Dagger build! Turns out that the geometry on the after-market trigger bar was off at the same place you identified. I ordered a factory Glock Gen 3 trigger bar which fixed the problem. Thanks for the video.
Thank god for this video! I’ve been trying to figure this thing out for a while. P80 has a lot of issues but I’m happy there’s people like you helping us figure these problems out!!
Johnny knows his business about Glocks. I learned about him after I purchased an Apex system. Next time for me. Christmas is coming so you might give your lady a hint. Thanks for the video. God Bless.
Yup, I had a problem with the pistol firing on reset, I wasn't getting enough sear engagement. Padded the vice lifted on it a couple of times and it solved the problem. Great tip.
I’ve built many of these always using Glock OEM trigger bars. Never an issue. Built another but ran out of them and used a P80 trigger bar and had this exact problem. Couldn’t figure it out. Then I saw your video and noticed scratching on top of the cross. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. You saved me hours and a few headaches. I recommend anyone reading this spend the extra few bucks and buy OEM parts in the future for your builds and don’t forget the $.10 trigger job 😉. Thanks again for this!
I had the very same issue, on a p80. First I bought a Ghost Lady trigger and that helped but did not fix the problem like you I had the occasional instances of no trigger reset. Googled again, Johnny Glock came up, watched his video and that's exactly what the issue was, slightly... slightly and gently ever so gently bent the crossbar up just a hair and it did the trick, thank you Johnny Glock.
Thank you very much I've been struggling with this build for months now and was in the same boat as you were. I put it on the back burner but now just tried out your method and all is well. Thanks again!
What you adjusted was the sear engagement. You might have not gone far enough for the it to be safe. Glock calles for 2/3 (66.66%) sear engagement, I personally have noticed about 80% is the sweet spot. Sear engagement also changes when you have a loaded mag inserted because the rounds push up on the slide.
@@JARG A little of both. Good work on the sear adjustment. Just throwing in my 2c for safty, and not so much for you, but the general public. A lot of guys don't know how or that even sear adjustment/engagement is a thing. We G people have to stick together and help each other out.
@@agrey8110 No doubt. Always available for info and tips. I don’t know everything cause I’m Just A Regular Guy. I am not a smith, not SF, not SWAT, not Tier anything. Just normal dude
Me too. I had the trigger shoe replaced and the "armorer" said it was a tolerance stacking issue. I don't know how it was doing it with the stock trigger shoe. I guess I'll give this a try.
Nice video very informative. I’m having an issue to where the trigger connector is not engaging the cruciform or the trigger bar in general,when pressure is applied. I’m not sure if you’ve ever had this problem. I’ve watched your other videos but they do not cover this issue.
I am gonna try this, I have been running a P80 since I built it about 2 years ago, never gave me any trouble but for the last 2 months or so I have had random failures to reset on the trigger, not consistent and not reproducible so we will see if this fixes it. I will add a comment with results in a few months.
Thanks 👍 .. exactly the problem im having with mine right now .. only I was told not to heat it up cause it would mess with the heat treatment .. plus I don't have access to a vice but I'll go to harbor freight and grab one .. I've tried and tried with pliers with just a little luck but yeah you definitely need a vice
Hey, I would add to the title " trapped trigger reset fail" I had been searching that for a week and got lucky finding your video. still not fixed but think this has got me on the right track.
@@JARG So mine is a 3DP DD19.2 frame by chairman won 19X V3 with Patmos slide. My forth build. no real issues on the other three. This one is having failure to reset trapped trigger, it's dragging on the front dust cover and the slide take down is not always engaging...let me make a short vid and send a link. might be simpler.
I saw my buddy had a problem where the slide wasn't reliably pushing the disconnector over to let the trigger bar and crucifix raise back up when there was pressure on the trigger. The slide would push it over but if there was enough pressure the bar would stay stuck to it and just sorta bend over and move with it, instead of slipping out and back up from under it. When it popped up the firing pin caught the crucifix just fine, but it wasn't making that "ping" sound of the bar slipping out from under the disconnector when the slide racked under trigger pressure, which meant that it was stuck down where the firing pin wasn't able to catch the crucifix and pull it forward. Most everything I saw about it online just said that the angle on the back of the crucifix was too low, but that wasn't the case with dude's rig - the bar just wasn't popping back out to raise it all back up to begin with, but only under trigger pressure.
I just had a runaway at the range. WHERE WERE YOU THEN. A week of cunfusion followed until I figured out what you just said. But I KNOW WHY. It is the P8o frame and jug. For some reason the slide sits too high. Mine runs like a champ now, no thanks to you (just kidding, wish I would have seen it last week).
Great info! So I picked up 2 Palmetto State Armory completed frames yesterday but I noticed both are hard to pull the trigger, its like an audible pop when I pull the trigger from trying to put so much pressure than I should. Then when I try to reset the trigger, its so hard to reset I literally have to pry it forward. Any idea or suggestion in regard to the fire position? This video will help me on the reset portion but I'm not sure why its so damn hard to pull the trigger on it. TIA
I knew what was wrong from the beginning of your video. Seen that problem a few times. Your pin for your rear locking block is slightly too high. I would bend the cruciform up slightly and problem solved.
I was experiencing the same and tried everything. Polished rear rails, made sure the rail detent was making just enough contact, heated up the cruciform and tried to bend it three separate times. On the third attempt it snapped and sent my fist flying into my vise. Pissed off and with a bleeding hand, I switched the trigger bar out for an OEM one and it solved the problem. I think the one in the kit I got was just too polished and out of spec.
@@JARG one more thing, I took it out this morning before trying all of this and it shot through 150 rounds with zero issues. Something about holding the trigger down during dry fire is the only time I could produce the problem.
Got mine back from the manufacturer's armorer. He changed the connector and "fit the slide to the frame" . Since both parts were from the same mfr, I'm not sure why that was necessary, but it fixed the issues and made the g-19 clone work as smoothly as, is not smoother than, a factory original piece. It was under warranty, so no charge - I'm happy!
Thank you bud, I really liked the video and you explained it much better than other. 👍👍 My problem was a run away, with an overwatch polydat drop in kit so thank you.
i hope people read these. Sand out the area inside the frame where the trigger arm is next to the frame. take 1mm out of that area, sand it, add some bow wax. you don't need to raise the cruciform. also check to see if your rear rails ride too high. push them down a bit more if you can. or grind/file/sand them down a scorch. 2 things cause this, rails that are too high and a pinch/rub in the frame. bending the cruciform, and adding a stronger firing pin spring are all symptom fix. not the problem. the problem is the trigger arm, and reset tab are hitting the inside of the frame, and the rails may sit too high,.. which is why the slide is missing the cruciform. that reset sprig and trigger arm should be free. free to move around.
@@JARG not dissing what works. Or how you helped. No doubt you helped. Your videos added to my mechanical understanding of the reset process for sure. Also helps to have a legit glock frame to see how it all feels so lose and free as per Glock. Does advil fix a sore knee, or just make the symptom of the problem less apparent? Advil has helped millions. I have looked at a dozen trigger crucifoms OEM, and Glock. They all have a mild tolerance.. maybe 1/32 inch in lip angle. But in the Glock body, the rails and inner frame clearance, less than 1/100. The average DIYer can't compete with 1/100" accuracy. People only report this issue with OEM bodies, and rails. So why would the authentic discrepancy be the cruciform or the pin spring? Right? I have seen all the videos. Tried all the fixes. While they "work". Pop in a new p80 or DD frame and tell me.if they work the same? Action is the same, glide resistance feel same, trigger reset feel, the same? Not for me. Not even close. And based on the 1/2 dozen recommended fixes..... we always see a decent double digit % of people that say it does not work for them. What to check before getting out a vice grip and blow torch? Your slide should sit low and be JUST off the frame. I mean just. Can you see light thru it? Shouldn't. and your trigger reset arm and cruciform reset bar, or trigger pull weight bar, should move freely in the frame. No rubbing, sticking, and upon manually triggering both the trigger reset and cruciciform reset,.. should pop with no negative resistance. This has zero to do with the cruciform, the firing pin spring, trigger spring hook angle or placement, or even mild burs on the inner rails. Right? Try it. Get a new trigger assembly. Slap it in a fresh DIY frame. Get the trigger reset error? Simply work out some material in the frame next to the trigger arm and cruciform reset spring arm. Fixed now? If not. Try to get those rear rails lower. Make sure the grip pin is very tight. You don't want the rear rails to have ANY play.
i found the problem with the p-80 brand lower parts kits... WHEN I HAVE USE THE MDX OR OTHERS I HAVE YET TO NEED TO TWEEK THE BAR... THANKS YOU WENT STRAIGHT TO IT...
Great video. Got lucky and have not had any problems with my P-80 from build to firing. The parts kit dropped right in after I fixed my bad drill job on the holes. Works like a stock Glock so far. Great job though here. You’ve helped tons of people I bet ! 😆👍
so close to the problem i have... but my trigger bar isnt popping up when the connector get pushed. bending like you mention isnt the solution.. i tried. my bar will not come up? i have 5 here to compare, all other snap up when i push the connector over, this one doesnt? like the spring isnt strong enough.
Gen4 trigger housings tend to sit higher, after one clips off the tips on the bottom of the housing so that they'llactuallyfit a P80, and much improves sear engagement.
Hey brother, i got the 20lb spring and had the slide creep, so i put but back the plastic guide rod and spring and it functions smoothly, need to test it out but i think i finally got it to work
But i had the slide creep before i bought the steel 20lb guide rod, then i went back to watching your videos, decided to put the old rod and spring back, now its smooth And resetting
@@JARG awesome idea hopefully it will get the page more attraction considering the amount of videos and work you put into em p80’s are very easy to screw up with no fault so that series should be a hit I’ll definitely tune in
People who build 80% Glock pattern firearms must (!) verify that sear engagement is sufficient. This is easy to do with a cut off or “safety”back plate. Only takes a minute at the end of the building process. You can make your own using any backplate and a file or Dremel tool. A cheap plastic plate is perfect for this.
The video isn’t very thorough as to which angle you’re bending the arm at. Could you show a little clip of it in the vise, showing exactly what to do instead of glossing over it? I don’t wanna mess this up but I’m 100% confident this will cure the problem.
I’m having an issue with my slide not going into battery. When I dry fire, hold the trigger to do a reset and re rack the slide, sometime it won’t go into battery fully. When the firearm is warm, like on a hot day, it doesn’t seem to have that issue. Any ideas what the cause could be? Maybe recoil spring?
I’m actually having a reverse issue. If I don’t hold the trigger and rack the slide , it will not reset. If I do hold the trigger and rack it, it will reset but when I let go of the trigger the slide rides forward at bit. What should I do?
@@JARG when I pull trigger, and keep pressure back on trigger, then when I begin to let off to engage a reset, the trigger fires again I am think the low angle is letting the pin go forward again??
@@JARG I’ll let you know if that’s the issue. I’ve tried everything else. It was a lone wolf trigger kit. I have a Glock OEM trigger coming in a few days just in case.
@@JARG I tried this in several steps. I had a Glock oem trigger ordered and it came today. Problem fixed. It was a huge difference. The lone wolf trigger must have been complete junk.
Mine is still hanging up on something. Took material off the trigger bar safety engagement nub. Now I'm getting fires when holding the trigger back and dropping the slide, on trigger release there's no reset it just fires. I think it may be oil because it's new and I'm still breaking it in but this issue is scary
Could the disconnector being a non OEM cheapy cause too much pressure? Ordered all OEM lower parts unfortunately I have to wait on shipping. This thing has lone wolf I think.
Great video man but I need a little help I thought I had a problem with my trigger because it wasn’t resetting after u rack the slide unless I put downward pressure but a buddy of mine has a g19 gen 3 aswell so I had tried his slide with my p80 Frame and it was resetting everything time without a problem so i know it’s the slide causing the problem so do you have an idea what it might be ?
I forgot to mention it fires if I hold the trigger down and rack the slide but with no pressure on the trigger it resets. Thank you for your time i would Really appreciate before I buy another slide
The long section of my trigger bar seems to be sticking up above my frame some. I also noticed my safety plunger in the slide sticks out heckin far as compared to my other Glocks
My trigger resets now and i dont have the misfires but it still get friction with the plunger to were the slide move slightly when i pull the trigger, but it fully resets , i bought a gen 3 trigger bar. Any thoughts on this?
Having the same issue. Figured it was the crossbar. Tried this and it didn't fix it....yet. Gonna have to try it a bit more to achieve and ensure function.
Check your connector bend angle. Do NOT just bend your cruciform up just to try it. If you don’t have an armor’s back plate Then put your normal back plate on And use a flashlight to look down the right hole and check your stryker and cruciform engagement it should be 90 to 100%. Check your connector bend angle that’s the most common issue also check for the metal burs that he spoke of
Should never heat up something that has been heat treated. Simply for the cruciform, put it in a vice with something protecting the tab (end of the cruciform or crucible) and apply pressure either back or forwards. I know that there has been a video that has been put out by Pontoon and he shows how to do this. Hope this helps. **** Plus get yourself an armorers backplate or make one from an old one, pretty simple****.
Thanks but I did not heat much. Also I made my own armor’s back plate. I am unfamiliar with pontoon but my technique has fixed a thousand people’s weapons. I might check pontoon
@@JARG yea, I made my own backplate as well from a replacement plate. If it works, it works. There are many solutions for a problem. I'm always welcome to learn new things. That's why I like watching and learning. Some good and of course, some bad. Thanks for the videos and keep it up bud.
Im currently having this issue, but only when I have a mag in the gun, when there is no mag the trigger resets perfectly fine 100% of the time... im wondering if this would fix my problem, its my first build so im not too knowledgeable on this stuff
I am sure you have tried a different mag. Just by what you have told me. It sounds like your mag is pressing on the bottom of your slide. This would cause the firing pin lug to slip over the cross bar. If that is case then you need to bend the rear of your cross bar up a little. See my detailed video on the bend. Also if there is too much slop in your slide then your rails on the lower need to be bent down also
@@JARG Ok I will give that a go later. I havent tried a different mag yet, besides the 1 oem g17 mag, all I have are oem 33rounders that would fit this platform
Just wondering if you would some insight on a p80 g26 my slide won’t cycle back more than half an inch or an inch. I put it on my friends frame and it worked but it was rough when I cycled it but it did put a round in the chamber, which I y hasn’t done on my frame. I was thinking it was the angle of the bar above the trigger because mines is straight but his looks more like a lightning bolt if yk what I mean. I have a completely new frame but I don’t wanna touch it if I don’t have to. Please respond 🙏🏾
Yes but I have changed a couple times and tried multiple. Currently I run a Timney in the P80 as an experiment but it took more custom grinding etc Now it runs flawlessly
Aye... You forgot to put the pin back in the rear trigger mechanism housing..🤣 I kept saying that even after you put the slide back on and racked it.. lol.. Nice build btw..👍
