PRO TIP: please do not use a knife to remove the 3D emblems... use dental floss or fishing line and saw in a back and forth motion. It will go even faster if you heat the emblem just a little with a heat gun first, but DO NOT OVERHEAT. This will remove the emblem without damaging scratching or cutting into the substrate... use orange-based Goof Off or alcohol to remove the remaining adhesive so that it does not eat the surface and use non-woven towels not cotton-based towels in prep work as cotton leaves fibers on the substrate. Further, use "filler primer" as it fills sanding scratched and other imperfections and provides a much better finish...
I would start off with adhesion promoter (if any of the cowling is plastic), then primer. If you do 3 coats of color and then wet sand with 600 prior to clear you will get rid of most of the orange peel. Great video.
This does not work with any paint with metallic flakes tho. To avoid orange peel lighter even coats is easier and only sand and polish the orange peel in the clear coat layer this ends up with a easier. rounded corners are a bit harder to gauge as they do like to pool in recessed areas.
@@mattwilliams8144 its easy to tell. If it has shiny bits its most likely metallic flakes. This can vary widely as they come in different sizes and depending on how the paint is laid they can have a different effect on how the mettalics can flash(show). If you look at most modern cars or outboards,they most likely have a Metallic finish on them.
Great job Aaron !! Prep, prekleen, bulldog the plastic, prime, sand...sit the rattle cans in a pail of hot water for 10 minutes prior to spraying will help the material to flow...if you have a good hand your finish could f low out like glass. Rattle-on & keep strokin Hoss
No sanding between coats. When you are done painting you can “cut and buff” to get the orange peel out. Sand it with a higher grit and then use a compound and polish to shine it back up. Even automotive painters get orange peel if you don’t cut and buff after.
I found that it is easiest to remove badging is with a piece of fishing line. Work some behind the badge and use it like a saw until the badge pops off.
I did the same thing to mine, but I sanded the orange peel off and made it look like a mirror. 1500, 2000 and then compound, then polish. It looked really slick on mine because it’s jet black.
@@IMTHATKIDJIT You can find them on eBay and online via a quick Google search (don't buy from the factory -- too expensive.) Just make sure the decals you buy are printed on marine vinyl. Again, great job!!
I do believe that was Volvo paint.. but same rules apply. Unless he painted flames and/or racing stripes.. Those actually make the engine more powerful.
Nice job Arron. In the future let your spray paint can sit in hot water for a few minutes then shake like crazy. It will flow better. Only thing is to wet sand 600 to 1000 before clear coating, do it lightly! Then use a tack cloth. That will get you a real nice finish with no orange peel. Keep em coming. 😎🌴👍 ps are you still thinking about the community web site still? I know it would be a great hit.
As far as the hot water, it will depend on outside temp. If 100 degrees the hot water might actually cool it off. Lol. Also 600 grit max I'd say bro because anything higher, the finish would be perfect but adhesion will be a problem and most likely won't last long. Great tip though. Definitely a needed one. 💪
😬 PLEASE remember that the can doesn't have constant pressure, so the distance from the surface and the speed of each subsequent pass must be adjusted accordingly. Each pass must be sanded to account for this.
I agree with your procedure up to the last color coat. I would give the last coat a good chance to cure..and then buff the slight orange peel effect to a smooth finish ,then lightly scuff with 1000 grit sandpaper or a fine 3m scotch scuff pad.... then wipe down with tack cloth.. then spra y clear coats.
I’m a industrial painter and well clearly it’s not the same because we’re industrial but only sand for runs and any imperfections because you’ll bring the mills down between coats
I did the motor on my old boat using PPG Delfleet. It is normally sold for painting busses, 18 wheelers and such. It's a catalyzed urethane and gets incredibly hard. However if you orange peel it when spraying it is very hard to sand out. If painted correctly it will outlast just about anything else out there. Cost about $200 at the paint store for enough paint, primer, reducer and hardener to paint 1 outboard. Basecoat/Clear coat though not as hard is a lot more forgiving for amateurs (and a lot cheaper if you buy off brand). Just make sure you buy your clearcoat by the gallon and shoot enough coats on so that you do not end up burning through when wet sanding (ask me how I know this). This won't be as much of a problem for those who have some painting experience under their belt. Oh and it goes without saying that you will spend way more time doing prep unless what you are painting is really pristine.
My 71 merc 500 still has the original paint on it. As for the boat itself, I had really good results with interlux brightsides and it came out fantastic
To get the badging off use Turtlewax Bug and Tar remover with unwaxed dental floss. Be mindful of the humidity. The more wet sanding with 2000 grit (at each layer) the better it will turn out. Then get polishing clay to finish up. I can't help but notice your pro-level shaking of the can, lots of practice? ;)
Use fishing line to take off anything but the sticker (loop it behind the trim and saw it down). It will not gouge any of the plastic. Then use an eraser wheel to take off the glue.
I'd say it looks really good for using paint cans. The idea is HVLP guns are dirt cheap, I got some black urethane base and clear, with an adhesion promoter first, and had great success.
I'm planning to use a 2 part spray paint. It comes with a hardener that you inject into the can prior to spraying. The cans are expensive but it's supposed to be automotive quality. Will epoxy prime the whole engine first, then base coat and clear.
Some paints require you to put on a very light first coat. Then wait the specified amount of time it says in the instructions before putting on the second coat.
That bloody orange peel effect. That happened on the last cowling I did as well. I put about 6 coats of colour on and then sanded back 800, 1200, 2000, 3000 then polished. Could have put clear coat on after that but didn't think about it at the time. I've got another one coming up for my 300HPDI rebuild not sure what to do yet. May do something totally different for a HPDI and go all white.
Spray it on with a HVLP gun, a good pressure regulator, and a NIOSH face mask. Take your paint chip or cowling piece to an automotive paint supply shop for a color match. The automotive paint will have far more UV protection than a spray bomb, and single stage catalyzed paint will be far more durable. You can practice your technique and spray gun settings on large pieces of cardboard. You can buy a quart of automotive urethane and a pint of catalyst for about $60.
use a heat gun or a hair dryer to (GENTLY!!) warm to area. The decal will come off much more easily. Goo Gone (Home Depot or Lowe's) will take the residue off.
Last off all, you don't need to sand between coats. After you have applied your clear coat and it has dried. You go over everything with wet and dry sandpaper, starting at 1000 grit right up to 3000. Then give it a buff and polish. It will look better than factory.
Getting that flat mirror finish is a pain… paint it.. sand it with 500, 700… 3 layers of clear coat… then sand the clear coat with 1500, 2000, 2500…. Then go at that with a 2 system polishing compound…. It looks fantastic, but man what a pain.
If you do this ,the key words are ,sand ,prime ,sand ,prime, sand ,spot putty, sand ,prime . sand ,then paint.Oh just before paint degrease .Lots of sanding is key hehehe. Turned out great.
You did a great job man, I work at a marina and my suggest to you is to spray the first coat off paint very light and the second coat medium and the last coat heavy that helps a lot with the orAnge pills, it’s the same think with the clear coat, keep up with those videos you’re doing great 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Lol, I feel like this is the exact opposite of what you want to do... heavy coat first to reduce the amount of coats needed, medium coat to have an uniform color everywhere, then light coat to finish it off and make sure everything's nice and doesn't have a chance to make some kind of "pooling" effect...
Man I have a pair of brand new 200 Yamahas that are Yammy grey and really need to be black. I thought about Raptor lining them but now I think I’ll probably have them professionally done at $750 ea. Maybe I can work with the painter and do the sanding for him to bring the price down some
How did I miss this? I am inspired to give it a shot. My 2000 Merc is immaculate under the cowl. The black cowl though,,, bad fading. Worst case I’ll pay an expert to fix my mistakes.
Next time when your about to paint give it a 600 grit sand paper and if your not satisfied of the coat that you put on re sand with 600 then if you used a base coat and clear coat wet sand the clear coat with 2000 grit then 3000 grit then use a polisher with a polished cutter don’t remembered the name lol but it looks like it has strings on the end then use a polished finisher then the paint will look like glass
I love this channel, wish he had something on here about engine brackets do’s and Dont’s. I was going to install one on my 76 formula 233, just don’t know if I need to beef up the transom and the corners.
You don’t want to sand a large area by hand without using a sanding block otherwise you get grooves in the paint from your fingers but it looks real good for how cheap it was done haha
Professional painters don't have to sand between coats if they use a high quality HVLP sprayer. I don't think you can do rattle can without orange peel due to the pressure/tip of the can.
Love your channel dude! Keep up the awesome work! Also Born again and proud of it :0) And bought a boat a few weeks ago and started rebuilding it because of your channel! OFF TO THE LAKE THIS WEEKEND!
Born Again Boating I’ve been documenting it on my channel. So far had to re-fiberglass the bilge... which I’ve never done before, replace the starter, put in all new fuel lines, and now changing thermostats and a few gaskets. The thermostats in my motor were literally melted into goop. It’s a 1987 Larson and I love it. Just hoping I get a bit longer than 20 minutes on the water this time ;0)
OK Aaron, We gota have a talk........Put the spray can down. LOL. Now since I cant cover every detail this is kinda brief. You were right about washing and degreasing first before you sand. Since I cant post a pic of things Ive done Ill elaborate. I would wash and degrease, dry , sand with 220-320, clean with wax and grease remover, spray with primer. If you have time you could go straight to paint. If so follow the primer instructions on recoat with paint. now cover everything with paint doing two to three coats letting them tack in between coats. Now if your not using clear coat .......I would do two coats, let it dry, sand with 400 and spray 3rd coat wet. done. If your doing clear.... spray all primer and paint and let it tack in between coats. Now time for the clear. Now some people (perfectionist) Like to sand the last coat of paint before clearing. Me, I do all primer, paint and two coats of clear. Let it dry, sand with 400 and do what is called a flow coat. with auto paint this is just over reduced clear and its sprayed wet. That last coat would be smooth as hell. with just paint, do two coats let it dry, sand with 400 and spray 3rd coat wet. THE BASE OF THE LAST COAT IS KEY. The smother the base the better. Now if some one wants to buff it out. Me I do 4 coats of clear so I have plenty to sand. SO, Buffing, wetsand with 800, 1200, 1500, then buff
@@BornAgainBoating Aaron, Your awesome with all the videos. Im just messing with you. Well, heres one you can mess with me on.....I've got my boat together(you've seen the video) Runs great I love the boat. I filled it up the other day and the damn tank leaked. Only about a gallon or so, maybe the filler neck . I knew I should have taken the tank out while I had the console off and the floor open. everything looked good. soooooo tearing it apart again. so, Take your shot I deserve it . lol
A few things will give you a pro finish even with your pray cans. If you want a smother finish, wet sand with 400-1000 grit wet sandpaper & then use a degreaser & tack cloth to remove fine particulate. Wear disposal gloves, NEVER touch the part with bare hands as it leaves oil from your skin which paint will not readily adhere to. When spraying, tack cloth your piece & begin spraying at an even distance of 12-16 inches distance & slow down your passes a bit, this gives a fine "dust like" coat first, your second & further passes will cover better & smoother. You got the orange peel because of temperature of your piece or particulate/oil residue on the part. If you would have used a cleaner & tack cloth between coats, your orange peel is far less likely to occur. Also, you can do a 1000 grit wet sand before your clear coat & this will deepen the mirror like finish of your paint job. just make sure to clean & tack cloth extremely well before adding your clear coat. This is in brief but I think you get the idea I'm trying to give you here. If you'd like an in depth writeup, please let me know, I'd be happy to do it. Great video as always & a pleasure to be able to give back a bit after all Born Again Boating has taught me.
Born Again, (Off topic but maybe a good topic for a future video) I entered the wrong amount of fuel into the trip computer on two partial fill ups. So my total fuel is off by a few gallons. I'm not sure how off it really is due to my error and that I bought the boat with fuel already in it. My plan is to have a 5 gallon gasoline jug with me, run the boat in sheltered waters until it starves for fuel, then add the 5 gallons and then input 5 gallons into the computer to make sure that i know for sure the amount of fuel I have left. I do not have a mechanical level fuel gauge, only my trip computer. Is this a good plan? I run a 1st gen evinrude 150 two stroke, is there anything I need to plan for, fule prime or oil line prime, etc? Thank you!!
Hey, idk about running the boat out of fuel just to get your fuel trip meter on point. You could also look into the fuel tank at the tag and see how many gallons the tank holds. Fill it full and then put that into your trip calculator
@@BornAgainBoating Thank you for your reply! Yes I thought about filling the tank but it holds 50 gallons. I only use about 6 to 7 gallons at a time when I go out and I haven't been going out often. I wouldn't want to run the risk of having 40 or so gallons of fuel go bad if I can't run the boat enough this season. I guess I could fill up and just run around the lake all day to burn at least half a tank. My cruise speed is 23 mph at 6.5 gph. That's a lot of running around. The longest stretch I have on this lake is 4.5 miles. Lol!
Also If you can find Finish One clear it’s normally $100 a set up and works great. Last a long time. And Sheriwin Williams automation ultra 7000 line of paint has a perfect match for Yamaha and merc. Spray using a cheap but nice iwata LPH400 1.3tip $400 gun you can make a better than factory finish. For the ppl that want to try using spray guns and auto paint. Tip for new guys screw in fluid all the way then back out 2 turns for base and 3 turns for clear. You can stay at 2 turns just go slow and don’t over think it. Let it flow.
i need to do this. my latch bezels on the top cowling are cracked and need replacing. merc wants a ton of money for them. anybody know of after market out there.
Ummm, not sure, those eraser wheels are awesome for decals, but I've never tried to use one on a painted surface, usually on gelcoat, and the gelcoat is strong enough to take it and allow the wheel to get the decal off. But on a painted cowling, 50/50, maybe I'll try it and see what happens :) You could use fishing line, a heat gun, and some 3M adhesive remover, between those three, they aren't too terrible to come off.
Que ria saber si me puedes ayudarme tengo un problema en mi motor fuera borda es un Suzuki 225cv del año 1999 inyección electrónica Te cuento me empezó a pintar a 4500 vueltas y cuando bajó gas deja de pitar pero el último día ya me pitaba hasta en 2000 vueltas. Entonces he cambiado la bomba de agua .mire los termostatos y no tenía el motor .y ahora ya funciona como antes hasta 3800 vuelta bien pero cuando paso de hay me pita que puede tener muchas gracias por la ayuda amigo y aquí tienes tu casa en España Valencia .un saludo
Hombre, realmente no lo sé. No creo que lo entienda del todo por el idioma. Pero parece que el motor no acelera completamente y emite un pitido después de 3800 RPM. Es posible que esté haciendo calor, pero probablemente no. Creo que hay algún tipo de problema eléctrico porque dijiste que tenía 4500, luego 2000, después de la bomba de agua tenía 3800. Parece que cada vez que lo tocas, cambia. ¡Pero alguien tendrá que dedicar algo de tiempo a esto para resolverlo! ¡Lo siento!
Hey we have been looking at a new 56’ post sport fisher and we noticed it had a cracking in the gel coat around the whole boat. Wondering what an estimate on price would be from you. It’s all cosmetic but it just doesn’t look good. We got a 200k price estimate but that sounds like our mechanic trying to do what he does best by taking out the checkbook lol
Congrats on the boat! That sounds like a pretty big job, and unfortunately we don't do that kind of work :/ just on our own stuff. Depending on where you are located I could maybe recommend someone for you to contact!
Damn that is the hard way to paint. I just paint it all together on the boat without removing anything and it came out great. Did a lot of masking but it is easier then ripping the motor apart.
Born Again Boating it only has a shift switch at the control box but #5 will spark when started then stop when running. I switch coils, plugs and tested it in gear and it still does the same thing. I don’t think it’s a bad stator and I hate to say it’s the ECM/Powerpack.
I do like watching your videos. Always something to learn. But...could you cut back on the mid stream adds? That’s a setting you can control. Start and end I can handle, but having to deal with 7 adds during a 9 minute video clip is very frustrating. I really don’t like being negative but I spent over 2 minutes trying to avoid those adds. Is still gave it a like anyway, as I do enjoy the content
Thank you! Sorry, thats a new thing RU-vid started doing. They started putting more mid rol ads on any video longer than 8 min. I dont want to turn them off because I need the money to create the videos!
