Pano Lenses For The PNVG 69 

Yes, I’ll be sanding the surface of the housing and paint it, and I’ll lightly glue the eyepieces. I’m also gonna be doing a little airsoft test on my failed prints of the tube housings. Poly max petg and polylite pla pro.

@@danteintense5164 I meant the lens that you sanded down. Are you going to polish and glue it together? I have some optical grade adhesive if you're interested?

@@V4Cascade honestly, I never planned to do that, all what I was gonna do is just put a little drop of super glue to hold the lens in the pano lens housing but I think I just might as well do it. The thing is I don’t know how to polish glass and fuse glass together properly. I may gonna have to watch some videos to learn that and have a better understanding to do it. Right now, I’m doing a lot of research to know how to put the pnvg 69 tube housings with all the other parts together properly and learning how to solder wires & leaf springs onto PCB boards.

@@KyleBobem Unfortunately, I don’t sell the jig guide tool. As I don’t own any rights to sell the file or sell the physical model. You can download the jig guide tool file for free on discord in the server called "Tacticool development"(link in the description). Ask vaughngina69 on discord for the file or you can look for it in the messages section(very hard to find). If you have a 3d printer, you can print it yourself. If you don’t have a 3d printer, you can ask a buddy that has one to print it or ask someone to print one for you that has permission from the owner of the file to print and sell the model to you.

@@danteintense5164 where can I get the files at? And my final questions is do I absolutely need the jig? Can I put the eyepiece at an angle on the grinder and grind away?

@@KyleBobem you can get the files on discord in the server called "Tacticool development"(link is in the description) and ask vaughngina69vonscherfarms for the file. You can do it without the jig guide tool but it’s highly recommended to use the jig guide tool to get accurate results and fitment.

Hey . I have the jig now. Do you recommend an industrial sander like the one in your video with 220 grit. Or will one of these electric sanders from Amazon (50-150 bucks/9000rpm) do the job(I’m also having a hard time finding 220 grit so 240 grit from Amazon is looking like the answer)

@@KyleBobem either belt sander should be fine. If this gonna be a one time project for you then I suggest going with the cheaper belt sander. The faster the RPM, the better. You’ll want to have a 220 grit belt silicone carbide or if you can’t fine one then you use a regular 220 grit sanding belt and wet the bet with water. Be sure to wear safety equipment. And vacuum the dust off the lens as glass particles will be in the lens after sanding. The powerful the vacuum the better, just be sure to hold it tight.

The 3d printed jig guide tool automatically angles the lens. The lens can be positioned whichever side for sanding. I highly recommend to do it dry sanding with a silicone 220 sanding belt. As it would be easier to vacuum all the dust from the lens.

@danteintense5164 thanks for letting me know, also, since i don't know, where can I find the jig?

@@themikeyexperience the jig guide tool will need to be 3d printed. The file for the jig guide tool can be found on discord(link in the description) and ask "vaughngina69vonscherfarms" for the jig guide tool file in the group.

@@danteintense5164 wonderful! Thanks a million

​@@danteintense5164 hello i'm building a set myself and i noticed in the stl file to make the cutting guide that there are 2 different versions, I am a little confused... it's for another type of eyepieces?

I read on discord in someone’s comment that’s said, "Isn't a diopter just the mechanism which allows for occular lens focus adjustment? Which is to say: you could move the tubes inside the body closer or further from the Ocular lenses. This would throw the objective lenses out of focus, but that can be adjusted easily. Shouldn’t even be all that difficult, just make the tube contacts longer, then use shims to get them set the correct distance. Figure that distance out during assembly (because everyone's printer is different, so we can't rely on strict tolerances) then assemble with your chosen shims, and finally adjust the objective accordingly Then you never have to fu¢k with it again" Hope this helps you.