Aren't the Duramax cylinders hard coated? How did they hone the coating without ruining it or not doing much at all? Also, just changing rod bolts on the rods will shrink the bores slightly, but not usually enough to make the crank lock up and not turn. Since you didn't check the housing for spec after putting in the new bolts, its hard to say. I'm going to guess the rod was installed backwards and it had no side clearance.
Hey man, awesome video. Very thorough & informative. I tossed around the idea of building my lbz engine with lb7 crank and pistons. Curious though, are all the duramax main engine components interchangeable? Or did you send out your crank & pistons to machine shop to ensure proper tolerances?
They are all interchangeable. You don’t want to mismatch lb7 and lbz rods because they are different weights. Also… the harmonic balancer and flexplate are specific to crank they came with from the factory
Crank broke on my lly up so I threw an 100k lb7 short block in it after hearing the cranks don’t break and it broke within 6 months lol. Went to Callie’s crank, SoCal rods and Mahle performance cast and great so far
good video the only thing I would suggest is that you find another machine shop if they are afraid to line hone it because of messing up the gear lash that's ridiculous if you have studs and it makes the mains out of round it's supposed to be done by skimming the main caps zero on the block with the cap torqued down and then line hone it it will not mess with the gear lash unless they are terrible machinists
If you can forego align honing a diesel, that is the way to go. Put in the studs and check it, changing fasteners doesn't always throw the main bores out of spec. Align honing, however does and will drop the crank centerline into the block by a few thousandths. Not only does that tighten up gear lash, but it also lessens piston to head clearance. All things that need to be checked and compensated for during the build.
Probably the only video that talks about the oil system. Galleries as it were 😂 When you say "remote feed" are you talking about adding a prelube pump/circuit? So pressurized oil should hook up to that remote port you showed as oil input? From there the prelube should make its way to every component including the turbo? Can you run prelube at the same time as the engine oil pump? Or u need a check valve on the remote feed and shut it off B4 starting the engine? I'd been doing just thought experiments about adding a prelube system but I always assumed to pipe in/out by the oil cooler. Id like to remove stock oil cooler entirely and use the delete kit from PPE or one of those guys u can Google it. Oh and another question: using lml ecu, not lb7? So u can run vvt amongst other benefits?
Running the lb7 ecm. Honestly I haven’t looked that far in depth to the lubrication system. All I know is that the front port there is the best lubricating port
lube stud bottom out back out 1/2 turn , washer no lube block side , you don't want the washer to turn either lube top of washer or bottom of nut. lube stud threads , take your 175 and divide by 3 . Also don't forget to center your trust washer main cap move crank forward and back to get proper end play
@@St0neRacer to set thrust I usually smack the front and rear of the crank with a dead blow, I’ve had washers spin when they’re completely dry before. So I don’t know how much a difference it makes
I’m a plumber, I know how to not get tape in the system, I do it for my job every single day. Haven’t ever had issues. Also only used tape this one time because I was out of liquid
