So I got a 392 Durango wanting a HC rango but…if I can build this thing I’d rather pay it off and do that so no one has what I do. This vid is awesome on your build
thanks ....a non bge block its self is still good for 1000 or so the bge has some minor difference's better cooling passages etc bge block with the correct parts is good for 1500 plus but at that level your always fixing something if you run it hard a lot . my a pinon 1500 wheel plus needs the billet hemi block .
Nice video!! Hey I have a 2019 1320 with BGE BLOCK and 7800 miles on it. Already have heads, cam on car. I know I should have done pistons when I did heads and cam at 400 miles. Anyway do you think I can install rods and pistons safely with stock crank bearings or should I remove crank and install bearings with 7900 miles on them ?? Thanks
Love your videos ! I have a 2012 srt 8 392 and I purchased the 4032 pistons and went with a redeye cam lifters and also have long tubes. This will be a street car with very minimal drag runs. I plan on adding forces air and my goals are 650-700 at most rwhp did I make the right decision or would y’all have recommended the 2618? Thanks in advance !
thanks .... 2618 pistons is stronger and will handle more power and boost but you should still be ok for that power range with the 4032 the 4032 is rated for up to 700wheel range long as you done the forged rods with them but if you plan to push it more id prop swap them out to the 2618 the 2618 pistons with rods are rated for little over 1000rwhp
@@moparmuscle304 thank you for the quick response! I went with the molnar rods as well. I may talk with tuner and keep it at a 650 max in that case. I couldn’t find a straight forward answer of how much they support and have been waiting to hear back from mmx so I really appreciate you brother
@@vegas915 your welcome ......yeah low 700wheel mark is there rating they honestly will prop handle a little more but just depends on good tuning and fuel youll be using but to be in the conservative range low 700s tops .....if you want 800plus then id change them out for 2618 pistons ...... usually 9 to 10 psi range on a forged and cammed 392 will make low 700wheel depending on blower size
so this car had a 5.7 in it and you upgraded to 392 what wiring had to be changed was it just engine bay harness i want to upgrade and put a 392 in my 2012 chalenger what are the steps to wiring pcm need upgrading to
nothing on the wiring every thing is the same far as sensors and wiring and how it bolts up but you will have to get it retuned /custom tuning. only wiring that would that may have to do is for the 6.4 intake active runners if you choose to run the stock 6.4 intake manifold but mmx/modern muscle sales a control box/wiring just for that for people that use 6.4 intake manifolds on a 5.7 car
Great content mopar bro. I just got a BGE 6.4 block off a stock 2019 dodge charger and planning on doing the forge internals like you did. The mmx dropped in pistons and rods you have are they stock size pistons? or did you go oversize .010 pistons?
If it's low miles 30k or so or less std size is fine if it's 50k miles plus then I'd recommend going. 010 just cleans it up basically and makes sure cly walls are not egg shaped.
@moparmuscle304 the 6.4 block I have is exactly at 50k miles from the loaner charger. So I would have to hone Cylinder walls to fit the oversize .010 pistons? Or do know another way to do that exactly
@@MegaZoeRidaz305 you would remove the pistons and rods then take measurements with a dial bore gauge at diff points inside the cylinder wall and compare the measurements you get ect ect
@@MegaZoeRidaz305 yeah long as theres no damage or anything then yes take it to a machine shop and have it bored .010 over .....but around that milage its recommended to at least do .010 over but just up to you it would prop be fine with just a quick ball hone job and std pistons i my self ive done std size on higher mile ones but per recommendation .. and what lot shops would suggest would to do .010 . to just insure its 100percent especially if your going to throw boost at it.
Usually the drop ins from mmx are rated for 1000 wheel but can hold up to roughly 1200wheel plenty guys I no make over 1khp ....im at almost 800wheel at the moment still on 93oct
@@jacksontodd79 find a tree or something that has a big lim hanging out that you can rap a chain or strap around and take a come along or chain rachet and do it or just get a engine hoist at harbor freight or find some one that will let you borrow one and then take the wheels off and lower it down lol but anytime you are removing the crank and everything it's best to pull the engine you'll have to raise the engine up anyway to get the oil pan off
All the 5.7 and 6.4 vvt hemis the wiring is all the same other than. The wiring /harness for the 6.4 intake manifold for the active runners which in my case I'm running a 6.1 intake manifold so don't have to worry bout that but if your putting a 6.4 intake manifold on a 5.7 car you'll need the parts for the active runners for the intake manifold mmx /modern muscle extreme makes nice basically plug and play kit for the active runners but that's bout it other than tuning for the mods and set up of course
They have a couple brands they work with in mmx case it's mahle pistons and molnar rods or Manley depending on Parts and availability but they only use those 2 brands for the most part and have done a lot of r and d to get them balanced/spec to the factory cranks so there ready to go hints drop ins .they have basically done the balancing for you and ready to go lots places have there Owen brands they work with and drop ins hhp /mmx /flyingRyan performance.
Not there drop in pistons and rods ...or there stroker kits from mmx they are already balanced.... Hhp also has there own drop ins.... and also flying Ryan performance/frp
the ring end gaps need to be facing away from each other rule thumb is 180 deg apart from one another.. you do not want to line all the end gaps up if you do that then you will have blow by and weak compression ect ect... but oil rings will be at the bottom of the piston bottom oil ring then the oil expander ring then a top oil ring all in the same groove on the piston then next groove will be the second compression ring then next top groove you will have top compression ring ect ect
@@moparmuscle304 ohhh yea!! I was wondering this also 🔥🤝🏼 ty tons man! But, I was wondering about the oil grooves on the connecting rod! I just a short on my RU-vid page a few mins ago, I'm just sorta confused. But when I watched your video, both the grooves were on top of the crank journal, see, I thought 1 groove at the bottom and another on top. But I think I'm wrong, but your video gave me hope. Nobody trying to help me lol
@@Realofficialdee factory pistons are little diff. but simplest way is long as you haven't removed the rods from the pistons but the marks / arrows on the pistons will face towards the front of the engine make sure that you dont get the rod caps mixed up and they go back on the same rod they came off of and the tabs on the rod and cap line up with each other on same side when putting the rod caps back on and the Belval/radius side of the rods will go against the Cheick of the cranks shaft and the flat side will go against the other rod
