Very good Mike !! I've never had the pleasure of understanding / or watching a kicker install, until now......and you make it soooooo understandable. It is rather simple, thanks to the way you break it all down. Keep on keeping on !!
Mike, Thank You for sharing your experience and knowledge. Your videos and a service manual make working on my '70 FLH a pleasure instead of a headache. I just finished installing a new camshaft, lifters,starter drive clutch, and kick start conversion kit. Without your calm guidance, I would have been throwing tools around my shop, especially with that drive clutch. I can't give enough thumbs up!!!
Very much enjoyed this series. If it doesn't have a kick start, it's not a motorcycle. So, that means I have to add one to the New girl in my life, a 1970 flh, lol. Me at 60yrs old rebuilding a 50yr old bike. Some things just never change. Ride safe. Guy Speight
It is a treat to watch you work on that kicker cover. I fondly remember rebuilding those in the 1970,s with a cold one on the bench and couple of brothers giving me loads of advice on the procedure at hand. I stopped the video, went to my tool box and looked at my hand impack tool that I bought from the Snap On truck in 1976 or thereabouts. Thank you for bringing me back to a time when Common sense was Common and and the world around me made sense.
Wow. I hope people can see that's the world I try to live in; one I can understand, one where we like each other, the one where life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness is what it's all about. Thank you for giving me an excuse to say that.
Who's gonna know you put Phillips screws in your kicker cover you ask? Well 868 of us so far. But don't worry, I for one won't tell anybody! 😉. I'm helping a close friend get a '70 FLH thats been parked for over a decade back on the road and your videos have been invaluable. Thanks Mike
@@paulj4463 Thanks Paul. We are taking it out this afternoon for its first run. Ive owned shovels and a pan/shovel in a rigid before but its been a few years since I've wrenched on one. Been riding Evos and TC's for the last 20 yrs but this 70 has got me fired up to find another one for myself. Ride safe. 🇨🇦✌
I was told many years ago that the Philips Head was developed because during the production of war planes on the Assembly line they were snapping the heads off on the Roberson Screws that led to delays getting the broken studs out. The Philips solved that problem. What your buddy say makes perfect sense. Enjoy your work guys. Thanks
My Grandfather and Dad were talented mechanical technicians. As a kid building mini bikes with bicycle frames he always had the answers and stories that have stuck with me over 50 years. To be a kid again. My favorite bike was my 2003 Road King. Thanks Mike.
Yeah gotta agree with that 1 i get the most out of the small details that could get over looked he makes sure to point out all the parts that go into a project
How did I miss this one ? Anyway, I found and enjoyed it. Better late than never. I have a new appreciation for old Harleys now. They aren't light but they are rugged and very soulful. I might have to trade my 850 Commando in on one. USA ALL THE WAY.
Thank You. There are currently 130 of our videos on our channel. You know, an 850 Norton is pretty cool. They won't fight. They get a little jealous of each other, but you can park two bikes in just a little more space than one. I love my Harleys. But I've ridden a few Nortons. Great fun.
Great vid Mike!! Sat in my barn rebuilding kicker side on my '67FLH back in the day Used emery cloth and dowel pin to take a couple of thou off that same bushing. Just the manual back then.
Nice job Mike, didn’t know what went on inside a kick starter till now, thanks. I’m old enough to have had 2 bikes with a kick starter, a 66 Honda and a 68 Triumph, Wayne from Windsor
Just catching up were in the middle of tropical storm Beta but no worries enjoyed the vid its cool to show people who have never been inside the working parts whats really going on . Ride hard ride safe be well bro
Thank you for share of your knowledge sir, My project & baby is a 1979 FLH 1340, sorting through the kicker now and getting closer to the road each step,-----Joe D.
You know, I got up at about 3:00 a.m., went out to the garage, picked up my impact driver...No I didn't! I slept 'til about 8:00 a.m. and never gave it a thought 'til you wrote into the comment section.
Mike, adjustable blade hand reamers are also good at opening up bronze and steel bushings and holes. Been using them for years. They can be used to get just the right fit you want.
Just a minor critique. If I was me..........and I am.... I always put the cover assembly on with no tension on the kicker spring.. You make very informative videos. Thank you.
My 69 FLH came with Electric start only, I have people thinking I put a late trans in it all the time. I’m maintenance guy and I’ve used the term sneak up on it when fitting parts lol. The younger people that have no idea how to fix anything look at me like I’m nuts. 😎love these videos.
Thank You. Kickstarter was an option on 69. The ones I remember, had a plug in the kicker cover where the kicker arm would go through. You could take off the cover, install the mechanism, and you had a kickstarter. If you have that cover, all you need is the rebuild kit, and you can easily install it. 69 is considered to be one of the best Harleys ever built.
I just did my shovel head. Broke a stone it my hone so I used one of those little flap sanders. 1 inch 80 grit then hit it with a little scotch bright and it worked beautifully. Every one I’ve ordered from tedds needs attention
Love your videos - I'm trying to put together a 72 FLH and I'll be doing this kick starter job soon. Today I'm trying to get the fork tubes back on and I can't get the fork tube into the top triple tree far enough to start that plug to pull it in the rest of the way. I was wondering how to clean out the hole and after watching this video, I'm gonna try my dad's old hone that I thought I would never use. Thanks!
Scrubbing things clean, without altering a dimension, is the goal. Penetrating oil and scotchbrite won't hurt a thing. Go to RU-vid and type in Harley Davidson Dyna Fork Seals. Everything is different, but I show how to spread the trees a bit. That may help you. Also, I hope your trees aren't bent.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks, you're the man! I buffed the lowers to a beautiful shine and got it all together. The last guy had them on backwards with the brake on the right. Also I enjoyed your "changing fork oil" video. You talked me out of trying to replace the fork seals. I'll just change the oil. I have changed fork seals on a few Showa lowers but you pointed out that the old Harley forks are different so I'll leave well enough alone for now.
Ha Mike, I noticed you made live comments about two different comments of mine. Cam bearings and lubricating the assembly of parts. What I say must stay on your mind, which is probably a good thing. Sometimes it is best to consider what other people say, then do what you think is best. I've learned that intelligent people listen to other people to see if they can learn something that may benefit themselves or others.
Joe, I liked your last sentence....how intelligent people listen to other people to see if they can learn something that they may benefit by. How so correct. Wished more people would take your advice.
I read and try to answer all of the comments. Sometimes, it gets a little overwhelming. But if you watch our videos and you take the time to comment, I'd like to treat you with respect and appreciation. That's something the world needs badly. Thank You.
Great video as usual. I see they put a starter clutch gear in the assembly kit. Trail of Tears ride went well with beautiful weather all day. Hope all is well in California also.
I've never fully fathomed why Harley went to the later slinger over the witches hat, they're almost bullet proof when properly maintained. Where as, the later slingers, I've seen them fail a handful of times!
I think it has to do with expense. And that big beautiful assembly just ran and ran. And then it wore and started making noise after a gazillion miles. It never quit working. They got replaced when you were in there doing something else, then you put it on the shelf and saved it for an emergency.
@@pacificmike9501 Of course, cost is king.. it's just such a backwards step for the 4 speeds, I would imagine, for the average person, one of them will last a lifetime as they don't really wear out!¬
Hello Mike thanks for your detailed videos, nice that you also show details like honing etc. many people think : buy , replace , done ;)) I mean the release bearing is still secured with a ball on the shaft, but the recess in the inside of the bearing, ........ am I wrong ? ( it's been a long time since I had it open ). Thanks for your information best regards from Germany
Thank you so much for the videos. They have helped me a lot as a new harley davidson owner. So far you have taught me to reroute the oil lines that the po had connected wrong, rebuild my oil pump and set my clutch. My flhc from 1981 is currently equipted with drag pipes. I want to return it to a pipe on both sides. I would love to hear your take on the ups and downs on true duals vs. Connected duals. Is the connected duals worth the extra money? Greetings from Denmark, Scandinavia, Europe
Money is a separate conversation. Drag pipes work well once you're in a high speed situation. Usually, poor performance at lower speed. True duals? Depends on how the rear one comes out of the port. Sharp or tight bends hurt performance. Connected dual? Do you mean like stock exhaust with a crossover to the left side? Most of the exhaust still exits from the right side.
Great video Mike, Thank you. I found it interesting that we share some of the same tools. Brake cylinder hone, hand impact wrench and even the oil can. Although my oil can is blue and is full of gasoline at the moment. The bike is going to be really sweet. Have you thought of a name for her yet?
I have a 1951 pan, occasionally The kick starter goes all the way down with out any compression then it kicks back up and does a number on my knee, I have had it rebuilt a few times for that but it still happens. What do you think is the problem? On an other note, I enjoy your patience and knowledge.
Hi Mike, great video! Sorry to ask this question when it has nothing to do with the video. I was curious as to how you lubricate your pan and knuckle internal cable for your mechanical advance on your distributors. I'm now thinking you just rotate your distributor on your knuckle, but maybe baby doll still uses the factory cable?? Thanks in advance for your help.
My Knuckle, being what we always called a "chopper," is a minimalistic machine. Not much that isn't necessary. I turn the distributor (circuit breaker) right where it sits, no cable. However, lubing those cables, is a little time consuming. Removing, lubing, reinstalling. Injecting through the sleeves is one way. Removing the grips and greasing the inside of the scrolls is important. Babydoll still has it all.
Thanks Mike. Might be an interesting video to make! Hope you get going again on your 80" flathead. One came available here and was contemplating buying it. Would require a full restoration, but I can take almost all of it on myself, so we shall see.
You might mention there was a change from 14 to 16 teeth on that gear. I don't recall the year of the change. Yours appears to be the later 16 teeth. That's okay, it matches the Phillips screws ☺
Mike, it seems like a lot of times you opt for using a wrench (i.e. when you went searching for a one inch wrench to tighten the nut) instead of socket. I've noticed this on several of your other videos as well. Just a personal preference? Or is there a reason that your "go to" is often a wrench instead of a socket to tighten items? Or am I reading too much in to it?
I'm not in a hurry. I love this stuff and enjoy feeling it. When working, I went through three sets of gears in one of my Snap-On ratchets. When working on motorcycles (you know, where everything shows), I prefer open end wrenches so as not to knock the chrome off of the corners of the nuts and bolt heads. I had a reputation for not mutilating customer's bikes. That was considered special.
i knew the WWII comment on Phillips screws was incorrect but i had to check Wikipedia to get the correct dates . of course this small error does not detract at all from an excellent video ! "After failing to interest manufacturers, Thompson sold his self-centering design to Phillips in 1935.[4] Phillips formed the Phillips Screw Company in 1934. After refining the design (U.S. Patent #2,046,343, U.S. Patents #2,046,837 to 2,046,840) for the American Screw Company of Providence, Rhode Island, Phillips succeeded in bringing the design to industrial manufacturing and promoting its rapid adoption as a machine screw standard.[5] One of the first customers was General Motors who used the innovative design in 1936 for its Cadillac assembly-lines. By 1940, 85% of U.S. screw manufacturers had a license for the design.[6] Due to failing health, Phillips retired in 1945. He died in 1958."
Hey! That was pretty close! I believe I said they weren't used until WWII. Check your dates. Cadillac in 1936? When did Ford start? I thank you for the correction, but we weren't that far off. Most guys probably never saw them until the assembly lines for WWII. But it is interesting, and I thank you for it. Some factories didn't have license to produce it until 1940. Okay, it was ABOUT that time. This fun. Thanx again.
Hello Mike. Thank u again for the "show and tell" and i did not know that about phillips screws👍. Anyway...i wonder about that black hose and fitting on the gearcase cover? Is that something u put there or is it original? Ok have a great day Mike👍. Kjell"the swede" 🇸🇪👍.
Yes John. I've been making them for years, for just that reason. A 7/16" thick flatwasher and a square file, about 15-20 minutes and you raise the arm with it. Problem solved. Helps clear when you're using a large trans sprocket too.
This is usually an internal problem. If the gear is loose on the kicker shaft or wobbling and hitting something, it can hang up. If the ratchet grars are jamming, it can hang up. If the kicker cover is cracked, that would do it. The bad news is, if it returns suddenly, it can cause real damage to your leg. Take it apart. It will become obvious.
It is registered. I've non-opt it for about thirty years. Harleys did not have vin numbers on the frame until 1970. They just went by vin numbers on the crankcases.
Hi Mike, Great tip for common folks like myself who do not have a Sunnen hone! Quick question for you; I am rebuilding my '57 Pan's transmission and need to change the bushing in the Main drive gear (4th gear) on my mainshaft. I believe that that bushing is a press fit...perhaps the interference fit is .006 - .008" I don't know off hand till I get the new bushing. Do you have any tips for installing that bushing? Do you heat the gear up so it expands to allow easier installation of the bushing? Would you entertain the notion of using the same brake cylinder honing tool you used in this video to hone out the bushing for the Main drive gear (4th gear)?? Thanks in advance for your help.
All of the above. We have to get creative sometimes. We're all pretty common. Automotive machine shops all have hones. I'm certainly not to proud to have a little machine work done by someone well equipped once in a while. I don't think you can expand that gear much. I'd lube that bushing and press it into a very clean gear. Be sure you press it in with the right tool you may have to fab. Or, buy a new gear with the bushing already in it. Expensive, but easiest. Then, all you may have is a quick finish hone. Then comes new roller bearings and maybe a new bearing race. Maybe a quickie hone job there. I'm not trying to make it rough. But time and money spent here is well worth it.
Hi Mike, I do appreciate your thoughts! I am investing significantly in all new gears by Andrews. At the same time I am switching for the stock 3.00:1 1st gearset to 2.60:1. I think this will benefit the bike considerably. However, even though I am buying Andrews gears I do not believe the 4th gear drive gear comes with the bushing already in it. So it's back to me to install a new bushing and that's where I was wondering if you think a brake cylinder honing tool would suffice to enlarge the ID of the new bushing accurately enough to get the .0005" - .002" clearance on the mainshaft. Have you done this in one of your builds or would you only entrust this to be done by a machine shop with a Sunnen honing machine?
I got a dollar says, "That new Andrews 4th gear will come with a bushing in it." Not only that, but, you're gonna love that 2.60:1 gearset. I have one in my Panhead and love it. And, yes I've done it, before, but, if you ordered it as a complete set, it's already fitted.
Hi Mike, thanks again for your time. I was still running the original gears in my pan and they really were off of good quality and the hardening was done right in those days, so I elected to just swap in the 2.60 - 1/2 cluster on the mainshaft and of course the 3rd gear too. Afterwards I decided to swap out 2nd gear on the C/S. Sadly I would have been better off to buy the entire 2.60 kit. However, where I have seen it for sale it notes that bushings and snap rings, etc need to be purchased seperately. I know no bushing came with 1st or 2nd gear for the C/S. I'm looking forward to trying it out and my bike is a handshift bike like yours.
Remember the old "fake" kickers that you could buy back in the 80's.I remember the ads in certain magazines.Some guys would joke and put them on everything imaginable.
I haven't seen you come out with anything new in a couple of weeks and i'm starting to get worried, i hope everything is fine and that you are in god health, take care sincerely Mikael hedman from sweden.
All is fine with me, i am happy to hear from you. Looking forward to seeing your posts again, became worried that you had become ill, nice that everything is fine, take care of you.
This box of elbows, this bag of cogs, concentric shafts & slotted dogs, dimensions held by cast in holes, now bushed & honed for torquey roles, their bearings trundle full & free, while they bathe in rock lubricity. For rolling boulders is what they groove, not too gritty, not too smooth, but just enough to keep things floating, a 'river of lurve' as bushes go boating. So mineral, vegetable, synthetic or honey? Check with IT'S book & then spend the money. Sherwood Forest 2020 . . . & very nearly teatime : )
Your writings are such a treat. I'd love to share them with people who watch our channel, but don't read all the comments. Please tell me what you think. Can I read them out loud?
Re: slotted or phillips - since you arent going all "period correct" on the internals of the gearbox, why not use torx or allen fasteners? I prefer the more positive engagement of a tool with those than slotted or especially phillips.
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Dear Mike: I cannot stand it any more, seeing You trip the light fantastic over that flex. Why don't you hang the wire from the centre of your work table, that way you can walk around it without getting all tangled up? It only has to stay away from your feet and you'd be fine, no more bother. Mind you; if you were on a dance flour you would probably look the part! I am really enjoying this project bike, Thank you.
