Part 2 Homemade workshop oil burning stove 

It's not really possible to a set chart to how much fuel and air you need in these types of burners because they are all so different. Trial and error is the only way to find out what is best for your use so don't worry about it :)

@@Moonlightshadow-lq4fr thanks 👍.

Thanks for the comment, I understand where your coming from. 👍

2 things can happen --- one like you say hot air is blown into chimney because of extra airflow ...second .... there is a chance sides of the stove heat up more or the fire is redirected to the centre etc because of vortex so another solution could be to have something inside to redirect the heat from the centre - chimney where vortex push the heat to fast to the chimney ,,,,, to sides - top -then chimney so heat have a chance to be redirected into the stove but still burn clean

😆 It was tasty to my amazement.

Appreciate the comment, thank you. 😊 it certainly looks like a brake drum at the bottom but it's in fact just part of the sausage machine. I've never tried welding a brake drum before but they are certainly cast and might give problems welding. Probably worth a try though as it's not under any strain should the welds crack.

brilliant suggestions, thanks for the info 👍👍

Thanks Josh, your speed controllable fan sounds perfect! I have bought a plug in speed controller for mine now and can adjust the airflow. The intake area is 1577mm2 on mine, I don't know what pressure my fan produces but I doubt it's very much and the 20watt centrifugal fan produces more than enough air. This is a good video to watch for some safety hints. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-w97RFaMgUf4.html Ben

@@bensclassicbodywork thanks ben will check that vid out and yes my fan is overkill but free but your new one seems perfect for the size your running, Im currently designing a burner that can heat my central heating water from an outbuilding in my yard. needs to be at least 30 - 40kw but one good thing is I can get unlimited wood within reason for free :) that is also why I have my Ideas set on a Gasifier to because then I can also generate power with cooled and filtered wood gas running an old Petrol generator I have and be fully off the grid. wood gas is mostly hydrogen so an engine with spark can run on it :) brilliant! 👍

Sounds great! I wasn't even aware of gasification so have been reading up on it. Off grid is a goal well worth chasing, supporting ourselves as much as possible can only be a good thing. Good luck with your project. Ben

@Ben's Classic Bodywork awesome bro yes it's amazing and was used in street lighting back in the 1800's fantastic and if cooled and condensed it's very clean so doesn't cause engines to clog, the gasifier has to be a good one to run a petrol engine reliably or it will just clog it. Im also looking into pyrolysis like distilling plastic waste to make fuels but Cheers 🍻 buddy you take care 🙂 👍

Great comment, I think that's spot on, I've bought a fan speed controller so I can find the sweet spot. Obviously this will change with oil flow and heat, wondering if it could be controlled automatically with a temperature probe ?🤔

Hi and thanks. My workshop is 1700 sqft which is 158 sqmt but in terms of cubic meters it has an average roof height of 3.5m. 3.5 x 158 = 553 cubic meters. If your workshop is 516 cubic meters and insulated then this pot burner will do it no problem. Your outside temperature is lower than mine so it will depend on your insulation thickness. I always run mine at a lower temperature than it can handle. Running red hot increase the heat output significantly but uses much more oil. 1.5ltrs/hr would be used keeping it red hot. This heat will get the workshop to 20 degrees C + with the outside temperature at zero. The workshop has 50mm thick insulation. I think if more heat was required I would make a better heat exchanger and run a fan. More surface area using tubes running through perhaps. You could then use more oil, generate more heat without melting the pot. I expect I could run mine hot enough to melt. I haven't changed anything much since the last video. It runs really well with the 20 watt fan but I did add a variable resistor to reduce the speed of the 20 watt fan slightly. Mine runs well enough without a fan, it will generate a similar heat but it won't run clean out the flue, I'd rather have clean running. The only other thing to add is I don't leave the burner unattended for more than 15 minutes. Most of the time it runs all day without touching it but it cannot be trusted. For example a slight blockage in the metering valve could suddenly clear giving far too much oil and heat. If I'm in the workshop I can hear the change and react accordingly. I think the only way to be able to leave this type of burner is to have an oil pump that can regulate the maximum oil flow rate. Regards Ben

@@bensclassicbodywork Thanks Ben, very kind of you to write a full and well thought out answer. I have a large concrete slab thermal mass of a floor - with insulation under it, so, taking your point about keeping an eye on the burner, I can run it when I'm in the shop then leave it off for the night and see how well that works. It's very tempting to got for a bigger burner at the same time - heat-wise, because though it's well insulated with 17cm polystyrene, the workshop's 6m high and there are thermal bridges where steel beams have yet to be insulated etc. I think I'll copy a good idea from one lad in the US by making sure the chimney is made so that the burner can be slid out horizontally on wheels (with a metal band sleeve that goes round it to seal it) so I can make alterations or even swap it if necessary. And possibly fit some ceiling fans to bring the heat cushion effect down. If I have any good success will let you know, though it will all take some time as am waiting for masses of cheap plasterboard to come along to fire-line the ceiling before taking any fire risks. Cheers!

Good thoughts, I can't see an issue with going bigger if you wanted. Good idea to have the burner easily removable from the flue. That would also allow cleaning of the flue if necessary. I haven't checked how my flue is doing with regard to soot build up. It's easy enough to sweep from the roof of the shed when the time comes. Another thing I added was a drain valve on the oil reservoir, water in waste oil can build up and affect the flow rate through the valve. One other thing I tried was adding a water drip feed into the burn chamber. People said it creates more heat but I didn't find that. All it seems to do is accelerate the burn rate of the oil that's going in which means you need more oil to keep up. More oil means more heat which is what happens anyway. I don't think adding water increases the amount of heat a set volume of oil produces. It's not more efficient in my opinion, I wouldn't be surprised if it was actually less efficient.

@@adelabdel-azim5261 I'm pretty confident it would do yes, same with heating oil.

Great suggestion, thank you. It makes sense to vary the oil flow rate with the fan speed. I will do this and play with settings. 👍

Simple and effective solution, thanks 👍

Great advice. Thank you. I will do as you suggest playing with air flow rates and I take your point about workshop ventilation. 👍

About time someone stated this! Yes a bit of fresh air hurt nobody :) and in any case in a workshop and free oil it is nothing to worry about, I doubt it would be noticeable getting air from outside the workshop anyway.

@@Moonlightshadow-lq4fr Woodburners we use here in Sweden take air from outside - it's more dense and has the same effect as an intercooler in an engine - the intake air is more dense per unit volume so it's a more efficient burn when the fire has to work hard, plus drafts are eliminated - a must when it's minus 20-30C outside. If the workshop doesn't need added ventilation draft when it doesn't have a burner, I don't think it needs one when it does - unless one is frying, of course, and depending on how well done the steak gets...

Hi, yes it is. The size of the workshop is 1700sq/ft.

@@bensclassicbodywork bigger than my house! Love it

1ltr/hr on the heat setting in the video

1ltr per hour is roughly 10 kilowatts.@@bensclassicbodywork

@@Moonlightshadow-lq4fr that's interesting to know, good comparison between a 34000 btu space heater. Do you happen to know if adding water to the burn makes it more efficient or does it just increase the heat and oil consumption?

@@bensclassicbodywork Adding water to the fuel in any amount will cool the entire burn, take no notice of water injection they claimed to have on jets, they tried it and it don't work. The idea is the water boiling will atomize the fuel but water boils at 100c no matter how much heat you apply. It looks dramatic because of the extra flames but those flames are not as hot. If you really want fuel efficiency you need to go blue flame which is relatively easy but means a slightly different design. It wouldn't be difficult to turn your setup into blue flame either but if your happy with it now and I don't see why you wouldn't be you may as well leave it as it is. :) Your burner is working great anyway, you can tell by the small amount of soot you get now so you have to ask yourself if it's actually worth messing around but it is relatively easy to convert with your setup.

@@Moonlightshadow-lq4fr great info, thanks so much, I have to say dripping water into the chamber didn't seem to be more efficient to me.

🤣👍

how if you take burning air outside, it will not use garages already heated air in burning. and to get more slowness in warm, maybe add more mass maybe stones/tiles so after you stop burning stones will release stored heat in exhaustpipe some copper pipe around it and water heating somewhere other room or ..