Part 2: Replacing a camshaft (timing) chain on a Himalayan 

How do you like the Hitchcock’s camshaft. Please provide a time stamp for you question. I would like to see what I can do better in the future.

​@@Mytwistedvoices 18:35. I've only just put the cam in and gone for a 70 mile ride but I'm very impressed with it. Even though I'm pulling a 17T countershaft sprocket it gives me more grunt where I wanted it, in the mid-range. It spins the wheel on shingle roads much more now and matches the longer gearing very well for my usage. I had an issue where the new dowel that came with the new cam would not fit into its hole. Neither would it fit in the old cam. I pulled out the dowel from the old cam quite easily with my fingers and managed to just get it into the new cam's hole with my fingers, so I used that. When I enquired, Hitchcocks said: "The original and supplied dowel should be a tight fit in both the old and new cam. They would normally be difficult to remove hence the reason we supply a new one with the performance cams. I have just tried fitting one and confirm it is a tight fit and does require pressing in. It is not something that would push in with your fingers or expect to. There is not much of a lead on the dowel which could contribute to the difficulty. The hole in the camshaft should be identical to your original as we are using factory cams to re-profile for this particular cam. Both the cam and the dowel will have manufacturing tolerances and if the tolerances are at opposing ends even though we are talking less than a thou, it will make a difference. I did notice that you said the original dowel was a tight fit in the new cam which sounds as it should be and the best compromise." So theoretically the locking tab needn't cover the dowel as it should be too tight to come out, but seeing as it is just as easy to cover the dowel as not, I think we may as well do so. I want to take the time to thank you again for all your valuable videos of working on the Himalayan - they're a great resource! I hope more people find them.

@@Liam1304 I reviewed the first video’s the big bore kit, camshaft removal and the locking plate covers the dowel. I marked its position. I put it back in the same spot (covering the dowel). This video I put it in a different spot (not covering the dowel). So, I looked at the manual. It doesn’t say anything about covering the dowel. I’m going to add a mention in the notes and in the future I’ll reposition the lock plate. In the mean time I’m in Africa and the bike is in storage. Very good observation!

I have explaining why that is a bad idea.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pP4U_vvJz28.html

I have video to explain this. It’s linked here in your reply. I have done it since day one. Never had an issue. The chain replacement was perfect, no issues.

@@Mytwistedvoices hi, yes it can come lose but with removed spark plug? and if it comes lose, put it in gear, block the rear wheel and tighten it again...*G* but i have to say i nearly always turn it with the back wheel and 2nd gear.... works fine 4 me and the engine turns the right way.

@@andreasbrandstetter9221 you’re welcome to do whatever you like to do. As a content creator, I won’t tell you something that the manufacturer will not recommend. Im supposed to be the “expert “ when I’m showing these steps. I shouldn’t tell someone to ruin their bike. In the forums owners have had loose nuts fall in to their bike. In one case the loose rotor sheared the woodruff key. The generator stopped working. Thank you for your comment.

@@Mytwistedvoices andreas is correct the manual is wrong, TEC engineering (UK) shows reasoning.