Hey thanks for the video. We just used a variation of your technique on a 1989 300E. The injector sleeves were frozen in there so we left them alone with a little cleaning. Each cylinder presents its own issue with getting to the hex bolt in the way of the hard fuel lines and other engine components. We accidentally dropped a new bosch injector into the engine compartment and could not get it out, could not reach it with our hands. I remembered that I had some of my surgeon dad's instruments in the garage. We grabbed the ones we thought might work and now we are performing surgery. My friend was able to use the surgery tool to extract the new injector from its certain resting place. He looked at me and I knew he had it. Lots of joy and laughter. We finished the last injector and replaced the other parts and went for a long drive and perfecto! Thank you good doctor for preparing us for such a surgical exercise.
You mean engine timing? I'll be pulling out my m103 eventually for a rebuild. But it's easy to align the timing marks on that engine. Crankshaft at OT MARK (or 0 degrees), and the cam sprocket notch has to line up with the notch on the camshaft tower. I haven't done any work on M110 engines at all. I'm hoping to add a car to my collection with that engine someday
Anyone with hard starting and poor running on these, first check ovp relay. Silver relay with fuse on top beside the ecu. Fuse can be fine but relay still faulty. You could crank it for half an hour wont start, then the relay might just work and car will start up fine.
At this point, I'm convinced that anyone who owns one of these, and the OVP is original, or old...should replace it. Even if its working, just for the security.
Good video! Just as fyi for viewers - the injectors which came from the factory on the 103 are silver. The old ones he pulled out of the car were copper so they must have been replaced at some point.
Just got myself a e260 1990, I have no knowledge in car repairs, but the technicians telling me there is an issue with the car and the Jetronic system, so doing my research now. Car starts fine on cold start, but warm start never works, it's a m103 engine too
@@VITOSGARAGE question, I’m having some issues with my 2.6. When I start it up I have to press the gas pedal other wise it doesn’t fire up straight away. Also I’ve noticed when I turn it on it runs abit rough and juddery doesn’t feel as smooth as it used to be. And when I pull away quickly it almost delays then pulls away. Something doesn’t feel right any ideas?
Thanks a lot VITO for this kind of video. Xould you pkease tell whether there should be any fuel adjustment done after replacing all injectors? Were ther any changes after replacing of of the injector?
Usually you don't need to do any adjustments after injector replacement. And my car started running slightly better. But not so much change. I'll dig deeper
This video is exactly what I'm looking for thank you 💕 Own a w124 260e m103. You mentioned change oil, can you recommend which is best? Heard 5w30 but some say 15w40 not sure which is true... Also, my engine seems to be leaking oil. Any tips? Hope you reply to this pleaaase
Hi there. Use full synthetic 10W-30 oil. You should buy about 8L of oil. Engines like thicker oil. Oil leaks are very common on these engines, just like on any older engines out there. Your gaskets and seals are in need of replacement. These are the common areas of leakage: cylinder head gasket leaking oil in the back right side of it; rear main seal leaking, big oil pan gasket leaking, oil level sensor leaking, valve cover gasket leaking, front crankshaft seal leaking oil. You need to wash your engine very well and carefully and then see where the oil starts leaking out of. I will be pulling my engine out to change the timing chains and all the seals and gaskets and to perform other work
@@VITOSGARAGE thank you so much for these insightful tips, Vito! 🥺 People like you make it possible for others to save these beauts! Cant wait for your next upload!
It really depends on average temperature tbh. 10w-30 would be a good baseline, for most climates. I like to run 10w-40 or even 15w-40 in engines with high miles, more of a cushion.
Probably the fuel pump relay. The wires that connects it, it becomes loose overtime. I had that problem too. Where the car just crank but wont start. It turns out that one of the wires loose and disconnected from the fuel pump relay.
Just clean the ICV, and make better connections on the wires. Your air/fuel ratio is fuckt. They told you good, chek vacuum leaks and hose from kjtronic to icv.
