That's me man, my back gets to hurting so bad bending over all that stuff. I'm pushing 40yrs old and got scoliosis in my back so it sucks to not beable to do what I love. I use the crane at work to get my Xv3's and box out cuz its over 250lbs lol. Getting old sucks!
Really great looking build. Only suggestion i might make is the those d4s lto's, the terminals are really close to each other maybe if there is a way to cover them or put something in between just to make sure no arcs of power between them😎
Not a concern…. The 2 positives are Next to each other and the 2 negatives are next to each other. So if they do touch, which they won’t because they are bracket mounted solid in place, they won’t short out.
nice job man. my set up is in a 2009 Maxima. not much room. I have to put my amp and batteries between the box and back seat. the way you ran the power to the Lto's from the distribution blocks, well I didn't know u could do it like that. I may do the distribution block idea. I have the big 4 done, all dual 0 gauge. when I grounded the battery and engine to frame I also ran a wire to the body. my car is unibody. I did that cause my back ground is in the metal behind the back seat. toughest metal I could find. seats are also bolted to it. it reads 0.0 ohm's resistance on the DM. I use a JL audio ground lug. sorry to leave such a long comment. at full tilt my voltage stays around 14.4 from 14.8
I have an 05 scion tc that im in the middle of building a system in right now too i put kilmat everywhere and i meticulously went through the car and found anything that might rattle or make noise and silenced it.......a xs d3400 under the hood a jp23 for 2 alpine type r 12's in a sealed box and a jp84 for 4 DB sylvester 6.5's and 2 skar tweeters one 4 awg run from batt to the jp84 and dual inputs on the jp23 power and ground.....its coming along slowly but surely.....i really like the accuracy and tight bass of the alpine type r's but i would like to get subs that have the same accuracy and sound but handle more power and get louder without compromising accuracy.....im also considering getting different 6.5 the sylvesters are good but they have no low end.......im also considering adding a high output alt and possibly a lto 6.0.....by the way i also have that same precision pittsburg screwdriver kit.....dig the videos✌ My setup doesnt look nearly as nice as yours tho you did a good job making it look clean
Anything will catch fire if people don’t know what they are doing. For as many people complaining about them catching their shit on fire, there are just as many happy Bassheads running them without issues. Proper input voltage, electrical, ohm load, i will have zero issues. My numbers are unreal!!!! Video coming next week
Awesome build, I been debating on which 1/0 ofc amp kit to go with. Been looking at gp car audio wire but is any other 1/0 ofc wire jus as good. My system is jus 2k system
Yes, amp hooked up at distribution block is fed by front battery and alt and the rear battery. If amp was hooked to only rear battery say voltage goes down it will limit current flow
Because it’s all connected anyway. I have solid runs from battery going to engine block. Alternator is obviously directly grounded to engine block via mount. And needed to run grounds on that side of car because could not fit 4 runs of 1/0 on that side of car and did not want unnecessary length of cable winding it around. Plus the alternator has a dedicated negative stud mount.
So why are you able to get away with grounding the entire system to two points when you have 4 points that need grounding? Again asking just so that I can understand. Actually, I probably should explain... As on my earlier post on the other video, I'm running 240 amp alt, 60 ah AGM under the hood, and 100 ah AGM in the rear for 410 amps total. 2/0 from front to rear. I'm planning on running 4 CT sounds tropo 10" on a Taramps 3k to see how it does. Later planning on upgrading to 4 DC level 3 10's on Taramps 6k if that comes out ok. Based on what I'm seeing, I should've gone straight to the level 3 10s and an 8k from the jump. The box is 4.6 net anyway. Any feedback you can offer?
It’s all about current/amperage draw. 2 runs of 1/0 can more than handle my setup, how it’s possible is through the use of distribution blocks. Don’t dip more than .1-.2 volts at full tilt. Ever. Pretty sweeet
Yes, the doors on these cars are insane. They have 3 stage components with a separate mid bass, mid range and tweeter. Amplified, and a factory oem pioneer touch screen head unit.
I’m going to do a full walkthrough and demo video once it’s all together and I’ll go over that specifically :) but I wanted to keep it under $5k. Which I did. Est somewhere between 4-5k. The 2 subs which I’m still waiting on were $2200 and that’s just the subs! Pair of DC audio level 5’s
@@NextLevelCarAudio ok cool. When is it needed? The distribution block looks so clean. I have 3 amps running from my d4s lto and was thinking of getting another.
Honestly, if the runs to amp are not going through and pinch points, metal, areas of movement, or anything that will increase the chance of wire being shorted. Then not needed. Some People do to play it “safe”. But honestly unnecessary
