As an old retired Transmission specialist, I really appreciated your series on this rebuild. Makes me want to go pick up a used trans to fix up and sell! They are such a mystery where I live (rural area of the Big Island of Hawai'i).... BTW... I even built transmission in SLC back in the 70's!
Thank you Byron!! Fantastic set of videos. I have a 10 year old LA175 that has a very tired transaxle with a fluid leak. I have torn down numerous auto and boat engines and I think your videos have prepared me for the worst. I really appreciated your banter throughout the process - made for a much more entertaining and informative video. I would not have had the patience to film everything as you did. Again, many thanks!!!
Thanks Brian. To date I have done a number of simple fixes to my Deere 140. Never thought about overhauling the transmission. I might give it a shot now base on your video. Nice job!
Brian thank you , even though you no longer work at Autozone , you always find a way to help us out... Lol. , you made things very clear and easy to understand as always...
Thank you so much for this series of videos! You saved me from having to spend nearly $2,000 for John Deere to replace the transmission in my LA145. Keep up the great work :)
Thanks for these videos. I likely wouldn't have tried rebuilding my trans without these videos. I successfully rebuilt it for a fraction of the costs. I referred back to your videos multiple times. Great resource.
Thank you first off for making this possible. My L130 is back on the road and mowing again. Good thing it was getting embarrassing around here with grass. It cost my time which I'm always glad to put in and a little over $150 with gears, plug, sealer, Fan which was destroyed over the years and UPS, Again thanks!
Just wanted to say thank you for sharing this tutorial, I recently purchased a John Deere D110 last fall, worked perfectly fine and only has 30 hours on it and now the transmission will not engage nor will the brake blocks work. I now feel 100% confident to tear down and rebuild the transmission thank you, thank you, thank you.
Thanks for posting the update, Brian. I really enjoy your vids. Been a long time viewer, and wanted to say thanks for what you do. Besides being an extremely competent mechanic, you have a great attitude through all your videos. That's something that isn't lost on your viewers and because of it, you are my go to for any automotive quandaries I may have. Thanks for what you do.
Thank you for taking the time to make the video. And showing we all miss thing's when troubleshooting! But when bashing something keep it short. For someone who said they new a little about this trans you fulled me!
Good video Brian, started my LA145 with about 210 hours yesterday and it jerked and stopped after about 100 yards. I noticed I had shoved a "branch" up under the deck that split and got up under the frame and knocked the belt off (below the fan pulley). I worked it back on by pulling the right rear tire but when I put it back on no brake and no roll (under power) forward or reverse. I did NOT notice the key thus it feel out and I never reinstalled it. However I did see the key way, just didn't register.I'm hoping I can go out and find it now. But if not I learned a great deal. Its folks like you who help those of us that use these wonderful, priceless snippets here. Can't that you and "your kind" here enough!
Nice work. It always sucks to have to tear something down more than once but you mastered it. The one I videoed was the same way. It would cruise on flat ground and mow all day, but once it had to go up hill or a bump it just sat there. Those motors and pumps really can't have any play to work efficiently.
That is a correct statement but thanks to this sharing of knowledge we get a better picture I have often been disappointed at myself and maybe I shouldn't be like that when it comes to those 2-3 time failures but eventually U get it right especially when ya have You Tube back up video like this one.
Thanks for the great series Brian! I found your videos incredibly helpful when I tore down the K46i transmission in my Husqvarna Rider 155 and replaced the filter, motor and pump. I referred back to the part where you removed and reinstalled the pump/motor assembly multiple times as I struggled to get mine back in. I added a dab of grease on that pin that likes to fall out and that seemed to hold it in place. I had a scary moment when I fired up my mower and it wouldn’t move. Once I performed the steps on the TuffTorq site for purging the air, she took off strong. Here are the steps for purging the air from the TuffTorq site; 1. Check oil level. 2. Place vehicle's drive axle on jack stands with wheels off floor. 3. Start engine and operate at low idle speed. 4. Repeat opening and closing bypass (tow) valve while alternately depressing forward and reverse pedal(s). 5. When vehicle starts to move, increase engine speed. 6. Repeat quick starts and panic stops until transaxle gives full response. 7. Remove jack stands while placing vehicle's wheels on floor. 8. Recheck and top-off oil level. You may want to add “TuffTorq K46 Transmission” to the description of your videos. The K46 is found in lots of brands of tractors and that might help more people find your great series. Best, David
Thanks Brian for your informative Video, watching your video gave me the courage and knowledge to rebuild my tired K-51 Tuff-Torq Transmission, replaced the pumps and Drive shaft , keeping my Scotts S-1642 going strong after 18 years.
This is by far one of the best videos for rebuild how to's I have seen. Well done. I have this mower and the transmission is slipping. Now I know why and how to repair it.
Thanks Brian,Great video with step by step. After watching, I was confident enough to try mine. Tuff Torq only sells a rebuild kit which includes a lot for $368, so I decided to have my cylinder blocks faces ground at a machine shop, stoned the aluminum faces and reinstalled. Cleaned the filter with Break cleaner, my gears where fine. Filled with 5W50, reinstalled on the tractor, and good as new. Thanks! Saved myself $400!!!
Fantastic, clear, and informative vid. I have an L110 with 500+hours and haven't had this issue......yet. now I'm prepared. My experience with 3 neighbors and my hoods is to knock the plastic stems off the inside of the hood, drill them and use bolts and washers to mount to the bracket. It may not look as nice, but the stems crack from vibration eventually anyway. Eliminates a lot of vibration. Thanks for the series. Very well done.
Awsome series of videos! I'm not afraid to tackle a job like this, and these videos will make it much easier now that you've walked us through it. very well done! Thanks and keep them coming!
Brilliant series its good to see a mixture of work!i had a non start on a rotavator yesterday it had shit in the carb blew the jet out new gaskets fresh fuel it then ran like a dream!Keep em coming
Fantastic Brian. Just what I was looking for. I just got a new D130 with only 8 hours of grass cutting on it so far and I want to change to oil in the trans right away with 5 W 50 Syn. It this point I'll be just draining out the original oil and replacing it but I'm going to keep your vids on file in case I need to get inside and replace parts. Thanks for the great 6 part vids. Russ
Thanks for a no-nonsense video on the subject. I have a tired JD X300 that is slowing down a little more each time I use it. Think it's time for an overhaul. I have rebuilt many old Wheel Horse manual transmission, but never a hydro. Your video has given me the confidence to open it up and git 'r done.
briansmobile1 I ordered the pump, motor and filter today. Derrick from Tuff Torq suggested that I buy the whole repair kit ($363.00) which includes all of the above plus the center case. I opted to skip that and buy the individual parts I needed for $144.00 off eBay. I will let you know how it turns out.
Excellent series, THANKS! I never knew how a hydrostatic transmisson works. Mustie1 got the same trans back to working by replacing a seal, but, I was curious and found this series, well done!
Hey Brian. Thanks for the videos. They helped me with my dad's old JD L110 transaxle. Rebuilt the Kohler 17.5 at 1200hrs due to the compression release broke off the cam. Now the transaxle is fresh at 1500hrs. Mower is retired from service (got a Gravely), but dad uses it to get around the yard. We will see just how many hours can be achieved.
awesome videos. I need to do a rebuild on mine. my l120 has 1800 hours, yes that's right on the original transmission. this video series makes this rebuild look like a breeze.
Excellent detail and R/R of the process. Just ordered parts for my K46 Craftsman and cam across your video series. Just in time while waiting for my parts! Can't thank you enough. 👍 subscribed!
Awesome series of videos! Nice to know there is another option to $800.00 (same old "will fail again in 300 hrs") or $1800 ("might work") redesigned new transmissions. Much like you and "Auto Zone" not sure I will take the chance rebuilding my JD. (I bought a Cab Cadet a few days before I found this.) I was excited about finally owning a Deere ...until I owned one for a few years. 412 hours latter after replacing 1/2 the parts on this thing I wish I still had my old MTD Ranch King that served me well for over 25 years. At any rate at least I know there is a reasonable expectation to getting some $ out of it instead of scrapping it. Your work ethic is commendable to say the least. Don't know where you live ...but interested in putting a 1973 Opel GT back together for me? I'm in Ohio. Long story ... I would hire you in a heart beat!
3/18/23; 6 part video on JD K42 transaxle A+✅️. Great narration & camera closeups & lighting. Great job, very helpful info. Thx for your time & effort. Much enjoyed your 'can do'/no fear/let's do it'🔧⚙️💪 attitude! Stay safe & carry on!👍👏🍺😊
Thanks for the video Brian, was about ready to sell mine (LA145 249 Hrs) for parts but now going to try to rebuild transmission and try for another 250 hrs.!!
Thank you for sharing this. I just got a LA145 and worked great for 5 mows then started not wanting to go up the hill. Not sure if it may need a motor too or just change the oil out with some good stuff.
Watched all 6 parts. Nicely explained, thank you. I'm about to remove a K46 box out of my WestWood (Countax/Ariens) W-Series, out front mower, zero turn. The right side drive axle snapped off, (couldn't find a video on axle replacement but you have explained alot!) I have new replacement axle to put in, who knows what I will find inside the box? as the machine has many hours on it, but it was working fine before the axle snapped!
Great job, I have a LA145 that appears to have transmission problems, new aftermarket belt and it will not pull, about like yours trying to get over sill in shed, I bought a John Deere traction belt will replace it, but have little hope for the old transmission, Again good job on video, but too complicated for me to tackle, May try to find an old wheel horse with 6 speed manual transmission and be done with hydraulic drive transmissions in lawnmowers,
Hey Brian, Hello from down under (New Zealand) : Great vids, Watched all 6, Friend of mine has very same problem with his John Dear . this will help a lot . Cheers
Very good. Thanks. I just bought an LT160. Seems to be OK but a little slower in forward than maybe it should be. If I have problems I'll rebuild it. Good video, warts and all.
The pump used in these hydrostatic transaxles is a variable displacement (or variable volume) positive displacement piston pump. It is important to understand that pumps do not "pump pressure", they pump volume (displacement). Pressure is the result of any resistance in the fluid system to the flow. In this case the resistance is from the drive wheels, through the axle and back to the hydraulic motor in the transaxle. When the swash plate (the plate at the bottom of the motor pistons) is in the middle "neutral" position the motor pistons do not move up and down at all when the input shaft is driven by the engine running. Since the do not move up and down the pump is at zero displacement and there is not oil being delivered by the pump to the hydraulic motor. As the swash plate is moved by stepping on the forward/reverse pedals the angular change causes the hydraulic motor pistons to begin to move up and down as the input shaft is turning. The more angle on the plate the further the piston travel on each revolution and the greater the displacement is on the pump. This means that more volume of oil is delivered to the hydraulic motor. The motor is a fixed displacement setup, so the more oil volume that is delivered to it, the faster it will turn and therefore make the tractor travel faster. Moving the swash plate in the forward and reverse direction just changes which direction the oil is flowing to the hydraulic motor and that causes it to run in opposite rotation to give forward and reverse travel on the wheels. Pressure is a necessity in the system as no work can be done without pressure. The pump has to be in good enough condition to deliver the necessary oil volume AND overcome the pressure encountered when mowing the grass (light work/minimal pressure) or pulling, driving up a hill or going over the threshold of the storage shed (heavier work/greater pressure). If the motor has wear and allows some (or all) of the oil volume the pump is delivering to leak past the pistons in the motor is able to output little if any force because the pressure cannot build up to the necessary level required to do the work of moving the tractor. This is why some people will see acceptable performance from the transaxles by replacing the oil with a high viscosity oil. The thicker oil does not leak past the pistons as easily, therefore the system pressure will again build to the point where the work of driving the wheels can be done.
Excellent explanation, you have really helped me understand the role of pump, motor & swash plate. Helped build my confidence to repair my hydrostatic transmission. Thankyou👍🏻👌🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 regards from 🇦🇺.
That's impressive, you're a great mechanic for sure. Just bought an '04 110 today. Does just what you said, mowes and works ok but seems a little slow and wines a bit when you first take off. I'm gonna start by changing the fluid and see if that helps. Maybe rebuild the trans later? Thanks man, definitely have food for thought now.
Amazingly informative video on MY EXACT model JD that needs help in this area! In addition I learned why I too switched away from AutoZone in my area to O'reilly. Like page 2 of a Paul Harvey story. Now I know why AZ went down in service so quick and so badly!
Nice work the the series of videos! I bought mine from a guy that rammed ice and now the transmission slips. Spent $100 for the mower, weights, chains and plow. After watching your video I think I can fix the problem. Will let you know how it turns out.
Thank you, very informative and detailed. I wore out my trans after 10 years of use with 300 hours by pulling a leaf vac up hills. It still works but as it gets hot, it goes slower and slower. Do you think if I changed the trans oil to a heaver oil it would prolong the life of the trans?
@briansmobile1, awesome series, my mom and dad have an L111 with about 140 hours, wont climb hills anymore. I'm assuming it'll take the same o'haul that you did, going to take it apart next week. Thanks for taking the time to make the series. JD in Ontario CA wanted 700 for a new transmission and said these were sealed and non-repairable. Customer Service has gone to SH*&! Be well, toby
Thanks for the very informative, clear and concise videos, Briansmobile1. I've disassembled my K46 TuffTorq transmission and found it to be in great shape. The mower only has 156 hrs. use and the pump and motor pistons/plungers don't seem to be worn or have any play in the bores. However, the aluminum body seems to be worn a little where the rotors turn against the body. If the body is worn that would allow oil to be squeezed out between the rotors and body. I'm thinking of just replacing the body and using a heavier weight oil in my transmission. What is your opinion about using a synthetic 70W90 weight limited slip differential oil in the transmission?
The K46 transmission you rebuilt is the exact same as mine. It started to leak fluid from one of the axles and stopped moving so I pulled it apart and replaced the axle seals. While I had it open I figured I would pull it apart, clean it and put new 5w 50 in it. Any way it moved for about 20 feet started whining again and stopped moving so I parked it and just started using another smaller 42" mower but it is slow and takes me forever to cut my grass. While I was in my driveway a couple of weeks ago I found a bearing and thought man I bet this goes inside my trans so I pulled it apart and pulled both vent tubes out, had springs but that was it, I kind of remember these falling out the first time and I thought a check ball fell out and I thought I put it back in. I contacted Tufftorq and they said that sense my spring had flanges that they did not get check balls they got filters. Was wondering if you might know anything about these two vent tubes. Thanks
Thanks so much for the 6 part videos. You gave me the information to diagnose and rebuild my K46 on my JD L130. On my rebuild I changed out both the motor pump and pressure pump. I just finished rebuilding, on my test drive everything works great, but once I run it over 45 minutes I'll know for sure. One question, I noticed my neutral sorta works, but still tough to push, you can definitely know the difference of when neutral is engaged or disengaged. Is this something that will get better as the pumps break in? Did you experience anything similar?
Great job and very friendly narrative which keeps one engaged through a complicated subject. One question I have is : My mower is an L100 and just wondering if it is the same as the L118 that you demonstrated on. My does not have a pull lever on the rear of the mower (transmission). Is this by design or is it just missing? The L 100 is not automatic. Currently the mower will start but it will not go in gear???
Your video's are helpful. I'm trying to replace the S shaped pipe that goes from the engine to the muffler on my L110. Is there a way of getting that pipe in without lifting the engine off the base? I can get one side, either the top or the bottom, but I can't get both. I suspect I'll need to create some space so I can both ends in but I'm not sure and don't know the easiest way to do that. Thanks, Bob
Great videos!! Motor and Pump, I see that if the Motor its bad it will not go through the little bump in your shed, but how about if the Pump its bad? what would be the symptoms?
Great video, I have a question though. LA120 overhauled transmission started out working great up step hills not a problem. Now I have the slightest hill and I can sit with pedal forward motion and I do not smell rubber like the belt get hot but then it takes off, like the belt is loose, I have new belt and pullys same effect, any suggestions?
Thank you for a very well illustrated how to video but I somehow missed the total cost it took to rebuild the transmission so I'll know how much it will cost to do mine and you did have to replace the pump motor right thanks buddy great job!!!!!
great video ,learned a lot ,but I'm trying to figure this L110 out it's getting real old has same problem but with a twist ,that rod you have to pull out to roll it . this one will roll without pulling it ,not as easy as pulling it but close ,what gives ? Any ideas?
Excellent series. I would like to see a '96 Craftsman Lawn tractor transmission rebuild. There are thousands of them out there that need service, yet there is no good service videos for them.
I just picked up an lx188 JD that seems to have some transmission issues. It had been sitting for years, doesn't appear that it was maintained well. I started messing with it this afternoon and got it running, it desperately needs a tune up and at least the trans oil changed. I have no idea how many hours, it has the liquid cooled 17 hp kawasaki and i assume a similar, if not the same trans as this. I originally bought it planning on parting it out but now i am thinking about fixing it up. I guess it will be a good winter project
Great Video Series, Brian. Mine works good but doesn't have much speed forward. It feels like the pedal should go farther, but it won't. What do you think? Motor? Pump? Something else? Thanks.
The piece on the bottom of the pump is the swash plate. When the pump is in neutral the pistons do not move out and in so no oil is pumped nor does the motor work at this time. The small pin you were having trouble falling out if the lever is not pulled what it does is the motor is the pump and the pump works as the motor. This is why it's nearly impossible to push the tractor. Keep up the good work. If anyone has a Riding John Deere mower check both axles to see if they lost the key. Home owners take off the wheel and do not put the key back.
Brian, thank you very much for the series of videos. I never would've been able to repair the LA135 I just got without them. Now it is running like new again. Much appreciated!
springs shorten over time i think shimming the original pistons springs or running longer clutch springs would help bring the pressure up u can also grind down the reverse stop on the switch bracket to get a faster reverse if u modify the body to get a full pedal travel i just remove the reverse switch and bracket on mine so i can mow in reverse without pushing the pto button it gives u full revers travel but the fender deck hits the pedal in full reverse needs trimming
Hey guys I need help last summer my John deere la175 would be fine mowing for first 20 ish minutes then it would start to loose power to the ground. I watched some videos and read a bunch on Google and it sounded like it here problem was a worn out pump and motor. I tore it all out and the pump and motor pistons are still pretty snug in there blocks. I did notice one of the ids valves on the side of the center block was stuck in so I worked it out and cleaned it up and put it back in. I'm really thinking about putting it all back together and trying it. Do you guys have any advice or help for me? I called tuff torq and they want me to spend almost $500 on a couple parts. That sounds redicules. The tractor was bought brand new by my uncle I do believe he's had it back to the dealer for maintenance as he's pretty particular about that stuff. But I bet it was the same junk oil they started with. Any help guys?
does the air vent and fluid fill cap just snap into place or are they threaded. Trans on my used mower runs OK but I wanted to check fluid level but when I tried to remove the air vent the outer section Snapped off leaving black inner and white pin (vent). If its supposed to just pop out I'll likely pry the interior piece out and replace the entire air vent. was using a screw driver to attempt to pry it out when it broke. any suggestion appreciated.
I bought a L 110 automatic and when you give gas to go forward it would go back ward, and giving gas for reverse it would go forward.. What do you think the problem could be... thanks Rick
Need help figuring out what to replace in the transmission on a L110 tractor. Will not back up when cold. Once it’s warmed up runs normal forward and backwards.
My tuff torq k62a failed and was leaking, so I bought a reseal kit and hoped it fixed the issue--- It did not!! Wasted $130.. But I might just save-up to buy new pumps & try again..it might be cheaper than buying a near mower.
@briansmobile1 thank you very much for the walkthrough. It was very detailed and helped me to feel comfortable enough to have a go at this. Was my first experience with a tractor or a transmission. Prior to getting started, the tractor was moving, just not very well. After opening it up and inspecting everything I came to the conclusion that the motor and pump needed replacement. I put the new parts in and assembled it using your videos every step of the way. However after mounting the trans and connecting the brake, accelerator and belt, with the rear end lifted off the ground while trying to purge the air, I could not get the transmission to engage. It feels like it wants to catch, I hear somewhat of a grinding noise that sounds like its coming from the front end followed by white smoke also coming from the front. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Hey Brian wanted to say Thanks The videos are great I too remove the cover case for the pump and motor and sure enough that small pin feel out but your video showed it so clearly . I was able to open and see the inside all was clear, the pump pistons are snug no play at all m the motor pistons seemed pretty tight also. One question is it just reg engine silicon that seals the unit back down? I had forward not to bad and reverse was very slow and low power Could it be due to low fluid levels because all gears looked great, I cleaned everything and now need two axle seal on the axle tubes. Do you think it might be low fluid or the motor in transmission? Thanks again Helped me a lot
