Great video man finally found a video I can understand so I can start on my wiring just got me a 1988 Monte Carlo LS planning on doing my LS swap really soon thanks again for the great video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey I have a question I’m trying to figure out can I run the stock truck AC compressor located on the bottom haven’t started working on my car just yet but I can wait to
KennyG488 that's a big negative. Motor mount will be in the way. I know people have relocated the compressor to the top passenger side but I've never tried it. I want to say a company called dirty dingo makes a relocation kit but dont hold me to that.
@@DivineSpeed Cool...I've seen tons of them lol. I've already pulled everything out of my Dad's old 2001 Suburban 5.3 What is your opinion on corrosion between the triangular coolant ports on the flat head gasket surface of the aluminum 862 heads ? Apparently no one flushed the coolant system...EVER !!! LOL The combustion chambers look they were well sealed from this corrosion by the factory head gaskets
my friend so you just work in back of the fuse box live everything stock? Computer too? Sorry I'm not speaking English much I hope understand my questions
I have a major question. Is this harness out of a GMC envoy/ trailblazer SUV? As I have this type harness and lm4 5.3 and these have the same pinouts..sorta as a normal ls based truck motor but the harness are a nightmare! I notice you focusing on the white plug unlike the black on the truck type harness. Please tell me your working with the trailblazer type harness... I need lots of help. I got all the pinouts but the rest of the harness is a nightmare to figure out. If you see this lemme know I'm currently wiring mine or rather doing cleanup on the harness for stand-alone.
I have a similar engine ls3, I did the electrics as you have in the video. We programmed the computer and turned off the "vats system". Unfortunately, the engine did not start. High voltage comes to the spark plugs, but no impulse comes to the injectors. Maybe you can advise me what could be the reason. Diagnostics shows me the error P0315. The sensor is working. Thank you very much in advance
That is good stuff. Thanks for putting that together. I am doing an LM7 swap into a Jeep Wrangler. Wiring is causing me my worst nightmares. Following Brendan over at LT1, I made a stand-alone harness. Pulling the unused wires and re-connecting them back into the ECM was no big deal once I dove into it. My biggest fret are the wires that did not go into the harness - i.e. the ones you have listed on your whiteboard. Specifically: 1. TCC - I have no idea where to connect it in the Jeep 2. Starter - I think I can figure that out, but I can't figure out how to connect the park/neutral safety wiring into the starter relay. 3. Keyed power - does that come from the ACC position, RUN position, or START position? 4. VSS - How do it connect to the speedometer?
Ted Hargiss man some of those are tough to answer since they're going in a jeep. The TCC I have no idea on a jeep. A lot of people have put them in jeeps so I would assume the information is out there. I think for the neutral safety switch I dont really know off the top of my head. I remember having a hard time with figuring that out on this car but I thought I had explained it in this video. I'm getting ready to cut down another harness soon so I'll dive into that again later on. Keyed power comes from the key on position. Not the start position. And for the vss I really don't know how to hook that up to a jeep speedometer. Even if you did, would it be accurate? You might look into some sort of display to take place of the speedometer but I know you dont want to do that so there again I would look towards the jeep community for the answer. I'm sorry I couldn't answer all of your questions. If I can remember what I did on the safety switch, I'll let you know.
Divine Speed Team: I really appreciate you getting back with me and taking time explaining what you know. I've researched a bunch on jeep sources and haven't found it yet. I'll keep looking. Thanks again.
Ideally you want to run the wire from the computer to a relay and than from the relay to the fuel pump. There really isnt any need to tap into the car's factory wiring. Let me know if this answers your questions. I am currently working on a website to sell these diagrams.
I'm toggle master on electric fans run shortest path to battery and longest path ground wire to dash. Ground to any metal by pedals anything. Cut in line for your toggle switch. Add fuse to taste good size gauge wire if budget allows.
Alvin, I would recommend going to the lt1swap Facebook page. That guy has detailed pictures of modifying the harness. I never took any pictures. Maybe next time. Also, as far as flashing the computer, the same guy is the cheapest around.
Do you remember what year truck you got your fuse box out of? I'm having troubles getting my '86 monte carlo to start the starter using the silverado stuff. I got the underdash fuses power, did the IGN to A9 so that works, just no crank at all. tried the purple wire from the monte in different places of the fuse box but nothing. using factory silverado starter solenoid wire. and my fuse box is from 2004 silverado which doesn't seem to have the pink, purple/white, and yellow wires that yours has at 19:55. mine (from top to bottom) in that location is pink,nothing, and green
Need some clarification. I noticed that you are running without O2 sensors. I have been under the understanding that you need O2 sensors #1 on both banks to run correctly past the 2-3 min. warm-up period (closed loop)
I actually have them on the car. I'm working on the tune right now but only using the wide band o2 sensor to do it. I don't want the narrow band sensors to effect it while I'm trying to tune it with the wide band. Probably doesn't make much sense.
I have a 2001 Tahoe on Tahoe I did a complete the complete wiring swap at your drive by wire it's a warm part of the security system wasn't turned off on the car when I brought it out of a junkyard I didn't know you had to do that now it I've got it all hooked up and it acts like it wants to start a fire a couple times and then quits Is am I going to have to get the computer flashed ?
MAJOR CONFUSION SETS IN; i just re-examined both my LM7 engine wiring harnesses circa 2002/2003. neither one has a white C1 connector going into the fuseblock! are things radically different in canada? I ONLY HAVE THE BLACK/CENTER C2 CONNECTOR NO RED C3 EITHER!
The 700r4 is a lot older transmission so if you have one that is not electronically shifted than you can get away with making the harness a stand alone setup like in the video and the transmission will work regardless however you will need to find a way to run the TV cable and that I cannot help you with. I am sure there is some sort of an adapter to hook that cable to a LS throttle body but I do not have any experience with it. Sorry I can't help you there.
so this is basically a RACETRACK ONLY wiring video? you dont need or cover wipers, headlites, heater, turn signals, all the power accesories inside? i have all idiot lights in my dash except fuel and speedo, both those should work but i would really like to get alternator, oil pressure, coolant temp as bare minumum gauge setup in the dash. fuel pressure im ok with being on the fuel rail under the hood. A tach would be nice too.
Consider is racetrack only but all of that extra wiring goes to the factory car fuse block. Hook up the two red wires to a 12 volt source and you're good to go. Lights and wipers still work fine. The dash lights will not unless you wire in the factory sending units into your ls engine.
Quick question, what color wire did you splice in underneath the console for the tcc.. And how does it work for 12v constant.. I have a 79 elcamin .. and I burnt up my transmission because I didn't wired up the TCC.. Thanks men
It's a purple wire on a separate switch on the brake pedal. The video shows the actual switch. I don't remember how it actually works though. I can't remember if it supplies 12 volts when you hit the pedal or cuts the power off. I want to say it cuts it off. Either way I ran it last year like this and it worked correctly. I hope that helps.
ya everyone makes it sound so easy. 3 wires to start an LS but doesnt say what wont work by doin just that[probly every but engine will not work] or GBODY 11 WIRES TO SWAP AN LS but doesnt say you will have 17 random wires leftover from G body that if not found and taped off or eliminated could burn down your car as ssoon as u power up car wiring
plus i have 2 LS motor wiring harnesses with at least some of the wires chopped off, hopefully not ones i need like tranny wires since im using th350 but i still have to go thru and eliminate or tape off each individual wire or it could burn up my engine just a enough to fuck the wiring harness or entirely
I received all of my information from lt1swap.com. What information I do still have is all in the video. I have wiring diagrams on my website divinemachinellc.com but I'm not sure if they will answer your question.
I will check your website out for sure thanks. I’m in the process of doing two style harness just because it was all cheap. So one is standalone and other is using the factory harness and fuse box.
Would the 03 5.3 wire up the same way ? I'm trying to figure it out now .so far everything looks the same except I dont have the purple /white wire on c1 c10 my wire is green
@@GustavoLopez-hd8jc I believe a mechanic with a snap on or genesis scan tool might be able to. Anyone with efilive or hp tuners can. Efilive is 125 dollars just to buy the vin license and hp tuners I believe is cheaper. I would check with the guy that runs lt1swap.com . I think he's doing it for 50 dollars.
It's hard to explain but if you plug wiring into the correct spots in the back of the ECM, you can actually program when they come on. I didnt go that route on this harness but if you check out lt1swap.com there is information on how to wire it.
You swap two wires at the ECM or at the trans connector, and add two wires for a front speed sensor. I'm not sure about the rest of it. Also will have to reprogram the computer for a 4l80 tune.
@@DivineSpeed Thanks for the reply and the information.. if you find out the rest that would be great. I know of several people that are interested in this type of transmission swap in my area alone. If you could make a video on this subject it would make a lot of people happy... Thanks again
Here's a fun fact on map sensors. In the Auto mnfr's infinite wisdom.... they calibrate most of their press. sensors in absolute pressure not gauge. Meaning, with the engine not running the MAP sens will read 14.5 psiA (Absolute) which is atmospheric press @ sea level, not 0 psiG (Gauge). So if you have a boost of 5 psi your MAP sens is going to read 19.5 psiA. In retrospect if the reading is 12.3 psiA you'e actually under a slight vacuum. Go figure.
I do not but you should check out the lt1swap.com website or facebook page. I know that guy just finished up a harness for those newer engines and he may have that information online. I've not had to work on one that new as of yet.
LSCHEVYRYDER254 you dont need to. You can use a much smaller fuse pan. The site lt1swap.com has all that information and pictures available. It's pretty straight forward. I'm getting ready to cut a harness down tomorrow but I don't know when I'll have all the parts in my hand to make a video on it.
@@blackmacgyver9965 yes very true. I've done several that way but I wanted to show that it's easier than that. But yea I really like the smaller fus box better. I'm working on one now for a guy.