Thank you for making these videos. I've never worked on anything but small engines and will be attempting to repair a 292 in a 50 year old bus. You've helped clarify much and alleviate much anxiety about the project. Cheers!
Very informative video! An important thing to watch out for when tightening the rocker nuts is that your socket is not all the way down the nut and touching the rocker - causing a false reading on the pushrod lash. I think that is what happened to you on the intake on #5 (about 11:25 min mark) when you relaxed the socket - the pushrod was very slack (you were going to back off - then realized you were not quite there (the ratchet popped up when you took pressure off the handle). I was going crazy doing an adjustment when I did not realize this was happening (leaving the lash too loose on the hydraulic plunger) and still having "ticking". Nice series!
I use the overlap method to adjust the valves. Adjust intake when exhaust is just starting to open, roll the engine over and adjust exhaust when intake is almost closed. That way you adjust when lifter is on the base circle of cam.
Hey sir, your videos are just great. Watching you turn the motor on the stand, a thought occurred to me: If you were to make up a square tube bracket type thing, using the alternator bracket at the bottom, down to the engine stand's "foot" - well you would have a "leg" there on front that would prevent the engine from wobbling and bouncing as you pull on it. Might help .
Wow thank you for your video I kept running everything through my head why after a head gasket install that I thought went smoothly, I was getting a no start. If I hadn't seen that this motor had 2 sets of timing Gauges on the cover because yours on the right of the water pump and that was the actual one on this that read correctly and i never even seen it cause it was covered in oil and trashpq..SMH and a buddy talked me into being 180° out. Plus I didn't have the valves adjusted like you did... if I ever see you. Beers on me!! Thank you. I uploaded a video with a shout out to you.
The thing to watch I learned was setting the distributor in its place with number 1 at tdc. We were 180° off. The piston 1 was on exhaust stroke, not firing stroke. We couldn't see the valves, the engine was buttoned up.
In those cases and working alone I always had a special plastic cap that would fit down into the spark plug hole but it had a larger ring around the end so it couldn't get sucked in. Then I would bump the starter until I heard a loud POP and the thing would fly across the shop and I knew I was on the compression stroke. You can also buy a whistle made for the job, or use a compression tester and watch it to start building pressure, or a buddies thumb over the hole. Just some ideas for you.
I enjoy the things you work on. I have two comments, a person should prove the piston is really on top, mark could be wrong or dampener could have slipped, and at 10:28 you weren't on tdc compression because the intake valve opened immediately so if the mark is correct you were on tdc exhaust.
I know this is an old post but if you have the marks lined up and take a socket on a breaker bar rock the crank back and forth about 20 degrees and watch the rockers on 1 and 6 the rockers that don’t move is on the compression stroke
I am not sure who else to ask and I love your videos. I have a 250 inline 6 that is making a ticking noise. I suspect I should replace the lifters and ensure the lash is correct. Can you advise if its as easy as just removing the side access panels and pulling the old lifters out and dropping new lifters in? Obviously, remove the valve cover and rockers first. But, there should be no need to pull the head or anything like that correct? Any tips / advice? Also, any suggestions on the best oil to use in an old 250 to ensure no future issues? Thank you in advance!
Yes, remove the valve cover and the side covers and that's as far as you need to go. Look for anything obvious before you begin, look for an obviously loose rocker/push rod. Look across all of the lock nuts and make sure they are all tightened down the same amount. Loosen the lock nuts and turn the rockers to the side so you can pull the push rods up. Look for anything obvious as you go. The lifters tend to wear into their bores in the block and can be stubborn to pull out. When you're ready to begin setting valve lash remove the dist. cap and turn the crank until the rotor is pointing towards #1 and line up the timing mark. Adjust the certain valves I listed in the video then turn the crank 1 revolution to the timing mark again and set the rest of the valves. There are many oils out there marketed for classic cars, really if it was mine I would run a 250 on plain old 10W30 or 15W40 diesel oil. Thanks for watching, let me know how it goes!
When I am faced with adjusting valves I call Clifford 6=8 in Wildomar and purchase a Hydraulic lifter Cam and kit. Result? More engine life and no valeadjustmentss either.
No video because I haven't seen it run either! The next video that I am currently working on will be attaching all of the bolt on parts to the 292. Then I will probably do a special video immediately after that of turning it over for the first time and hopefully a test drive!
Well, at least you're par for the course. A guy glosses over a subject and people complain about not enough detail. A guy tries to explain in depth what is going on for those who don't know and people whine about making it too complicated. Hmm, what's a guy to do? Guess I'll keep doing it my way. Thanks for watching and God bless!
