Shortly after break in we had a rocker nut creep up on Cylinder #3 causing one of the rocker arms to turn sideways. To prevent further issues, we re-adjusted all the lifters and went hammer crazy on the rocker nuts.
Love the Straight six engines! So nice NOT to see this swapped for an LS3. Such a clean original beauty! Tipping a cold Moosehead in your honor sir. Thanks for sharing. Cheers from Michigan usa
I love inline 6 engines. So reliable and easy to work on. Less horsepower than an v-8. Everybody puts a 350 in their Camaro. I think the six-cylinder is much cooler!
I thought that you had to be at TDC on the compression stroke for both valves to be closed before adjusting them. I just tried to adjust the valves on my 1976 c10 250 and now I have a horribly loud valve tick. It was only slightly bad before that's why I tried adjusting them. I'm assuming I didn't tighten them enough? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
That's so beautiful it's my dream car I've always wanted a 67 Camaro. But I have me a 75 nova 2 door coup with the straight six. I'm almost complete with the engine build. It came with a integrated head but took it of and now I have split headers 307 flat top pistons with roller rockers and a dual carb intake. Oh and a stage 3 cam 😁
That sound great, I had a 68 Nova for a short while, I think I was 19. Always loved a Nova, and with a straight six, what a combo. Sounds like a great build!
@@TurboCamaro67 thanks man it's been an awesome time so far. I'm hoping to have it fired up by Sunday. Ah yeah a 68 that had to be a sweet ride. I think the 60's vehicles were probably the best decade of just beautiful cars and trucks.
I don't go in order of the firing order either when using EOIC. In the past I've always had solid lifter cams but after losing cam lobes on the last 2 in my 70 Z28 and using the best oils with ZDDP, I said, no more flat tappet cams for me, so I went roller this time.
Yeah I do think normally go firing order either, too much unnecessary rotating. Even though it seems 'solid' for now, I still regret not going roller. Gotta save some fun for next time I guess.
Yeah I tried with it running first but I think several of my rocker nuts were loose so I had several loose lifters. This way I could get them all right without overtightening some to figure it out.
I've read in a couple manuals its a 1/4 turn more at zero lash. would you say a stock cam would be the same as a comp cam? is it 1/2 turn more in general?
I've read several resources as well and it seems to vary from 1/4 turn to 3/4 of a turn. I'd bet a half turn is fine for stock or CompCams. A factory engine assembly manual would be the best source for a stock cam though.
thank you, ill try 1/4 since mine 6 is all stock. if the make noise ill just go back and go a 1/4 more. adjusting them in firing order i should be about to do 3 cylinders at once correct?
+Jesse Strader sorry, I missed your reply somehow. If you have them in the right position you can do half in one go, then turn the engine over and do the rest just be sure the valves are in the required positions. I didn't show how to do it that way because I prefer to do them one cylinder at a time. A couple extra revolutions won't hurt anything, except maybe your forearms :-)
@@TurboCamaro67 now I upgraded to a intake manifold like the one on the video and all carburators seat sideways and I've seen videos with straightforward carburator. That's the info that I need
Interesting... Original Springs and valves? I'd think the valve must be binding somehow causing a lifter issue or improper valve position. You're sure you're following the EOIC process?
I use Lucas Hot Rod & Classic 10w30. I like Lucas products and it meets the high zinc requirement. I've always found 10w30 to work well in this North-West coast climate.
The repair manual says to do it similar to that. It dont mention no lifters starting to move or anything. It just says put #1 TDC on Power stroke and tells you what ones to take lash out and 3/4 turn. Then you put i think #6 one TDC and do the rest.
Nothing wrong with following the manual. I've just done it the way I shown for years and it works for me. You can see all sorts of different methods/takes on this procedure on RU-vid but as long as the result accomplishes the goal then you're good to go.
I agree.. a lot of people do different methods and different specs based on old manuals, spec sheets or "what their dad taught" them. Of course, sometimes different methods work better than the manufacturers recommendations. Unless you have trusted knowledge it's definitely best to go with the factory manual. It's funny though you're right.
Must be an illusion off the camera angle or something. They couldn't possibly all be in the same position. Or perhaps I hadn't tightened them all down yet and jumped ahead after.
Tom,Have you heard of any"cross flow" 292 heads around ? Were used @ Bonnaville salt flats for high speed runs way back in the day.also Clifford Engineering "6= 8" company who used to sell 6 cylinder parts? I have a 292 thats marked*High Torque" on valve cover(Chevrolet) Thanks.
I use the EOIC method and turn 1/2 turn down after zero lash and only when there is no up and down movement on the push rod. I don't twist the pushrods until resistance is felt cause it's not as accurate. If you race the car then turn 1/4 turn from zero lash. The GM factory used 3/4 down cause they didn't want the customer complaining about noisy lifters.
Haha that's interesting about the noisy lifters. I find they're noisy no matter how much I turn them. But yes, a ½ turn is what I do as well. I was made to understand zero lash implied zero movement, but zero vertical movement makes sense.
It was more to show what you can do if you need one and don't have one. The shop in the island I lived on at the time didn't stock them, so it was that or I ordered from Amazon in a non Prime delivering area. Obviously replacement is ideal.
Hey, I just watched the whole video and noticed I said the firing order, 1-5-3-6-2-4, twice toward the end of the video. I said "2" both times, albeit a little quick. Near the beginning of the video I mentioned firing order but indicated I'd talk about it later. I'm curious now, would you be able to give me the timestamp of when I messed up? Thanks for watching and your help!
Those lifters arnt hydraulic.Hydraulic lifters have a oil hole and expand with increase in oil pressure when the engine starts to negate any slack.Thats why you dont need to adjust them.
Hey Eugene, you're right about the hole in the bottom of hydraulic lifters. You probably didn't/couldn't see them in this video, but the lifters used in this engine have the holes, and are hydraulic. For interests sake, they are the Compcams 812-12 Lifters.
