Awesome video, thanks for sharing this information! Just got inspection pass with your advice and a good ODB scanner. I did a smoke test prior for an EVAP system error code and mechanic told me car is not worth fixing as the entire fuel line and canister are rusted and would need replacing to pass inspection which would cost more than half the car's value. Was really stuck with a car with insurance, no inspection and no way of selling it beside for pennies. Thanks again, your video made my month :).
In NY it’s $450 in repairs and one failed inspection...then the second inspection after the failed first will qualify you for an exemption. I’m figuring that out right now with this P0446 code, which is a final code after a series of codes I’ve had. Replace one sensor, then a code for another...and another. Plus, my truck is running fine. Shop said they’re “baffled” (after $150) but still won’t inspect it. Such fun! Also, it’s 1 or 2 monitors that can read NA and still pass, but no ce light.
Yeah but I think that only buys you the one year right and then you're screwed the next year. Also if you're doing your vent valve make sure it's not a faulty product. if you have a higher end scanner you should be able to turn it on and off and hear it click. after that if it's still not working I would check the plug and then start tracing the wiring look for obvious signs of somewhere it would break or corrode.
@@patrickmurphy8619 totally right. I had the valve bench tested because (sadly) it’s all too common to purchase a bad “new” part. The problem is that I started out with an o2 code...replaced it. Few days later an intake air thermostat code, replaced it. Then a vent valve code...replaced it. Now, this multifaceted code. As soon as I replace the specific part for the code I get a new one. This p0446 code can be cleared but within a start or two it throws it again, and actually never clears. It’s quite annoying! I took it to a shop (never have had to take a vehicle into a shop lol) and they said they were baffled...smoke test was fine, the parts I replaced are fine. Suggested a pressure sensor or the ecu. I replaced the pressure sensor and it wasn’t that. They removed my canister and said it was fine, but I’m going to replace that first because I can get it for $9...and maybe the internal on mine is shot. It’s also a possibility with this code.
I've been dealing with a p0740 code torque converter clutch short/open for 3 years,year one I rebuilt the transmission (thought I would have no more problems) a few hundred miles later and $1900 down the light was back on, year 2 my friend dropped the pan and changed whatever solenoids/ and some other thing, (to pass inspection) and it did ,I drove it for 390 miles and light came back.this time the light would go off on it's own tho for a few months,last year I cleared the codes drove it until the system was ready and ran it thru inspection(the light came on 19 miles aftrwards.Now I'm here again ,I cleared everything but the light has came on at 24 miles,cleared drove 12.4 miles then light ,recleared, and got to 31 miles and the fucking light came on again before I can run it thru inspection.Its so annoying,my truck drives perfect,its still in great shape but this problem is knocking at my door again.Its bullshit and I can buy new electronics again to buy time and pass it thru,but I've had enough,it really is a joke.I get it for the people who have a shitbox that isnt safe ,but that isnt the situation here.there is some type of electrical bullshit going on that makes the light come on...Truck drives like it did new.
YA, Illinois has that exemption, at leasyt 450.00 must be proved as spent, and only on matters relating to get the Emissions working. You get a ONE (1) year exemption, even tho younormally get tested every TWO (2) Years. In Illinois you must PASS before you can register the plates agin. On the "off" year, you only need to re-register - without a test, unless you had the exemption from the previous year's FAIL.
Also a new update for those of you in NY if your vehicle is over a certain weight class it's not plugged in for inspection just had a 06 Ford E250 Handicap Van wasn't plugged in. Just safety inspection Good Luck Everyone.
Great advice man everything you mentioned a mechanic said... My monitors are ready except evap monitor but the engine light is back on but my obd reads no codes can i remove light bulb of engine to go get it passed as long as no codes are on and monitors are ready... I have p0456 on mitsubishi galant 2002 real headache bro..
Hey Patrick Murphy great video...right now my nys inspection sticker is about to expire next month yes it’s one those last minute thing lol I recently noticed it...when u have a busy life it’s so easy to forget these things even the nys dmv don’t remind drivers to get renew their inspection sticker ahead of time...anyways u mention something about disconnecting one of the battery plug before going to the mechanic shop for inspection sticker...after watching your video I’m starting to think there is some kind of trick to passing the inspection test even with a faulty vehicle...I have a 2010 Nissan Altima SR it’s been giving me an engine I just don’t have time now to take it to dealer for repairs...getting my nys sticker renew will give me more time and keep me safe from tickets... I do intend to take the vehicle in for a thorough repair...please tell me the steps to passing the inspection sticker with engine light on and thanks again.oh and one last thing I took my vehicle for a scan at auto zone...and I found out my vehicle has 2 codes...a P0011 and P0021 both refers to intake camshaft positioning timing what ever the hell that means...I’m a nys resident as well.
Respect. Im dealing with a P0455 code on a 99 mustang here in NY and I dont know what the hell to do I did a smoke test and the EVAP leak is above the gas tank and it's gonna be a ton of cash to bring it into a shop to find and fix the leak.
Biattack716 I had a Mitsubishi Lancer did the same thing. I had to run it real low on gas. Reset the light. Drive about 50 miles and I had to time it perfectly but it would pass
Last time I had it looked at they told me I needed 2 sensors replaced-O1 and catalytic converter, I got quoted for $600 to fix it. There has to be another way to get it bypassed?
As soon as I heard you talk I knew you were from NY lol. My car threw a code p1443 . It may be my gas cap because I replaced the oem one with a locking cap that does not seal properly.
thank you about the information about the NY inspection problem, I have a 2000 VW VR6, but the engine light and abs light is on since I brought the car, but now the inspection is pass over, and my friend told me I will not pass the NY inspection, will fix a lot of money on it, but now i don't have money right now, since I discover your news about the NY car inspection , so I like to ask you what should I do to my VW? I 'll be much appreciated! and I also brought a computer scanner.
It depends on what the scanner says is wrong sometimes it's a easy fix im back in the same boat my inspection is due this month and the lights on in my new truck
I FIXED WHAT CODES WERE COMING UP, TWO 02 SENSORS, AND EVAP PURGE VALVE. HOW DO I GET THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TO COME OFF NOW? I HEARD I HAVE TO DRIVE IT QUITE A WAYS OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT SO THE TRUCKS COMPUTER CAN GO THROUGH DIAGNOSTICS. 2004 GMC ENVOY
I have a car that needs insurance but cars over 12 years old I’m doing the repairs myself that need too be done to pass inspection I hope I can do them right cause a shop will charge way more then me putting some time into the repairs my self
My truck has an evap leak , bought a 60 dollar scanner from autozone , reset the check engine light , checked the scanner after every time I drove the truck , 2 days later (about 200 miles) all the monitors cleared , green light came on the scanner , went straight to the nearest smog station , passed no problem . I had no idea what I was doing and I didn't think it would work.
Great video!! I truly think these inspections are the biggest rip-off to consumers in history. The government should be looking out for their population not ripping them off. People need to drive to work, and all the other places. I do believe in global warming, and we need to take care of our planet. This is not the way to do it. The check engine light came on my neighbor’s car. She took it to the dealer, and they wanted over $1,000 in repairs. I looked at the car, and found out that she did not tighten the gas cap. This tripped the computer. My wife and girls will not take their cars to inspections sites. When my girls go to the inspections site, they are hit with hundreds of dollars in repairs before they can pass. I take the same car, and it passes. I cannot blame the inspections sites, they need to make a living too, but they are taking advantage of people. These tests are just a rip-off. We just need to change the way we fuel our cars. There were steam, natural gas, electric cars, in the past. Why not revisit this technology. Remember when they used to say, an electric car is not feasible. Tell that to Telsa. We are under a lot of stress. Simply owning a car makes us criminals now.
i have a 2004 dhs caddy mint,,but for 5 years now,,i have to do the clear code ,,,driveit 50 to 100 miles,,,and always it would go to 1 not ready,,well this year,, ive drivin it 6 seperate time 50 to 100 miles each,,after clearinf codes,, and it says 2 not ready,,i cant get the damn thing to go to 1 like in previous years,,,im going to have to do that waiver thing for 480 bucks compared to 20 bucks normal,,,i live in ny,,,i know one not ready is a c a t,,,not sure what other is,,,i have a week,, any way to beat this? or am i screwed?
yup thats the situation i am in right now .....i'm totally fucked , been back to the emissions place like 5 days in a row now working with the mechanic to try and shut it off. Nothing has worked
@@patrickmurphy8619 Regarding the 100 or so miles that has to be driven to reset the sensors, do you have to drive 100 miles straight in a single drive or can you do this over a few days/week?
@@MrNothingButAir well there's no set thing because every car is different. but it's actually better to space it out and do a few trips letting the car sit for a few hours in between. a lot of time cars need cold starts which is basically meaning you started the car from cold again.
Emissions is a scam. The catalytic converter doesn’t even make a difference. I gutted my catalytic converter and my Nissan passed anyways. I found out that to much emissions is not due to your cat.
True. The scam is in the different systems being combined and used on one engine. Recirculated fumes from the exhaust back into the cylinder burns unburnt fuel. Systems that I feel causes enough drag to negate any emissions quality by requiring to burn more fuel to do the same job. Catelitic converters are a scam because there mandates under false claims. The high heat and pressure created in exhaust systems resemble in part how diamonds form. Carbon+Heat+pressure = diamonds I think. Processes that in which take enormous amounts of energy =high costs per unit. There deviding the costs of creating these precious metals and passing it to us. Lets face it.. ALL engines run better and stronger with less B.S attached dragging it down
I have my check engine light on all the time. Says shift solinoid B. I cant get this light off to pass inspection. Car is a 2000 dodge grand caravan SE. 3.8 liter engine. 140k miles
I don't know Massachusetts law. I was just giving you New York state and they're pretty strict. Usually other states are more laid back but there's no way to be sure. Just google it and get a general idea
Try 02 sensor sometimes cars have more than one auto part store will tell you. If that don't work change the catalytic converter $225.00 -$250 not more.
Literally dealing with this right now, had the car for years ! Yet the day I need to get it tested, it comes on ! They reset it for me and now I just have to drive it to the Kms that they want and want me to come back in, so annoying I hope it passes !!
thank you I have a 420 engine light on my 2005 Camry I Will try the this week. i take the battery cable off and drive 50 miles and it worked ( but I am going ) to buy what you have. i will let you no ( thank you ) for your honesty my brother ( god bless you )
I bought a 2000 Chevy 2500 work truck with service engine light on in New York and man had just had it inspected before I bought it. He said that 3quarter ton trucks and up are exempt from service engine lights but I been searching Google for this info because truck needs inspected by end of the month and I cant find this info anywhere..
He lied to you, all vehicles need annual inspections. See here for certain exemptions and more information: www.semasan.com/resources/vehicle-emissions-inspection-requirements-and-exemptions-state#tx It's unlikely that your vehicle is old enough or new enough (you said 2000 Chevy) to be exempt from an inspection
@ImHRG Im , we all know that . Jhair and I have the same problem - are trying to do what the video says , I am in NY and have just the Evap not ready , if I can turn off the ch engine light and it stays off long enough to ready all monitors except one - I guess in my case the Evap - I can at least get a sticker for now while continuing to trouble shoot the problem . Your comment , while correct , ignores what the video is about .
I have a 2000 avalon with timing codes because when I went to do my timing belt and the rear cam mark was off one tooth, didn't notice until the CEL came on right after. This was back in March of 2021..my inspection was due in October of 2021 and now it's January of 2022.. It's 16 degrees out so I can't fix it and to pay a shop it's too much to fix. The timing belt tensioner has to be removed and the marks aligned. Unless I win the lottery I'm not fixing it anytime soon. It's the ONLY reason why it won't pass.
Yeah it depends how fast the codes come on and how many monitors you can get to go through before the check engine light comes on. Timing codes usually come on fast.
@@patrickmurphy8619 yeah if I clear the light and drive on the highway they stay off but the moment I get stuck in stop and go, the CEL comes on. And on my car once that happens I lose traction control too.
I started my car for work this morning & the check engine light came on, when I got to work this morning when I parked & turned off my lights & the check engine light turned off & my check engine light was never on before
Well it could be frustrated people too only some issues can be worked around it depends. It's funny most issues with check engine lights are stupid but some are serious just depends.
Hi I just have a question. I live in NY. And all my monitors say ready but I have check engine light on for only one evap code. Can I still get it inspected since ny allows only one code or sensor to be not ready?
Check engine light cannot be on. so you have to reset your light drive the car until all the monitors are ready except for evap, once that monitor comes on it'll throw the code again. so you may get lucky evap is usually one of the last ones to come on so reset the code and drive it 50 to 100 mi and check your monitors as you go.
Also that's if you have an EVAP leak. If you have a bad purge valve or vent valve or something electronic the code may come on right away even after a reset.
@@patrickmurphy8619 That's my problem . Clear ch engine and it comes back after a few miles . Not likely a leak? Codes are 171 and 174 , lean both banks with only Evap not ready .
@@waldipup9010 if you're running lean on both Banks most likely you have an air leak somewhere in the engine bay cracked rubber hose or something like that. Unmeasured air it's coming into the engine not measured by the mass airflow sensor
@@patrickmurphy8619 My ch engine light (with evap not ready) comes back after 7 miles, but strange because previously took over 100 miles to return . .
Never buy fake ones either, even if they look alright, when I was younger I thought they would fool them, but no, I got a $350 fine, and then had to get my car proper and inspected, so do the math, not worth it.
I went to take an emissions test and I failed due to monitors on my drive cycle saying "not ready". I did erase my check engine code because the code it is throwing will cost to much to fix and I passed that part of the test but I failed because my drive cycle had "not ready" on a few thing's. I needed a tune-up and that's why it was doing that. Well I have a machine that I can test all this and all week all my monitors have been saying "ready". Well this morning I go to run another test just to ensure I'm going to pass inspection this morning and now all of my monitors are saying "ready"except for my cat. Now I know you're allowed one monitor to say "not ready". however my question is can my cat say "not ready" as long as my other ones are saying "ready" and will I pass that way??? Also why after repairing the car and all my monitors have said "ready" for a week but now on the day I am going to inspection now everything is saying "ready" expect for the cat??? It makes no sense. I live in New Jersey and I am so tired of being pulled over because of my emissions sticker been out of date.
@@stoneyj1a1 really? Okay I know a couple of people in other states said only the evap could say "not ready" but I was trying to figure out if new jersey is that way. Thank you for responding.
I have inspection appointment after two days And I have check engine light from map sensor Can I erase the codes before I go to my appointment in the same day?
That's where the monitors come into play. When you reset the car certain monitors are not ready and as you drive the car they go online or become ready. I know in New York you can only have one say not ready. So if you reset the light and it comes back on right away, you're probably not going to get it through.
Any advice bro I have evap code P0456 and i reset drive my mitsubishi galant 02 about 35-40 miles and when i complete 7monitors the engine light comes on right after not giving enough time to go smog smh.
I would start with a gas cap and depending where you live if you have rust in your area they have metal tanks usually on Mitsubishi and they rust out get pinholes in them
@@patrickmurphy8619 i replaced gas cap twice and the mechanic replaced it again claiming that is the issue and ordered one but the light came back on. Not sure if i should try the factory original gas cap. If that isn't the issue what you think is the next common issue? thank you for you response sir
@@jasonnasiry well like I said if you live in an area with Rust it could be the tanks going bad. if not it could be one of the rubber hoses that hook the tank to other things could be cracked. Have your mechanic do a smoke test it's the easiest way to find the leak.
I have been dealing with my check engine light for 10 years now. I have a 2002 Toyota and I would have it turned off drive about three drive cycles and it would reset. now I just spent almost $1000 dealing with this check engine light last year and it stayed off for 3 days and then comes right back on. they tell me the code is the po171 where there not really sure what is and could be a few different things. so im driving around without a new tag sticker and no inspection. I would love to kick whoever decided to have these check engine lights and emissions.its a bunch of bullshit
You lucked out with the timing of the readiness cycles. I was hoping to find a way to simply disable those diagnostics since 95% of those codes are emissions nonsense and not safety related.
yeah it's crazy I'm actually a small dealership now so I deal with this stuff even more I just did a video if you're having problems with catalyst efficiency I found a way to kind of get around that. It's all about timing but sometimes you do have to fix the issue
Same here, but the monitors is key. In NY 97-00 can have 2 monitors not ready and cars 01-now can only have one not ready. so if you can reset the check engine light drive enough miles to get all them monitors ready that you need you can still pass inspection as long as the light hasn't popped on
i got pulled over and had a ticket, but the upside with a ticket for inspection is that if you register your car within a certain time and go to court, the ticket will be waved within like $10
@@KimberlyCaresForU Not sure how this developed because it was year ago, depending what the codes read and if your engine light came back on - unfortunately it could be the catalytic converter (unlikely because they don't usually wear out). The P0420 code stands for “Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1).” When you receive a P0420 code it means your catalytic converter is not operating at maximum efficiency. Usually this means your catalytic converter needs to be replaced or there is a problem with your O2 (oxygen) sensors (most and best case scenario).
How can I shut my engine light off long enough to pass. Last time I passed because I unhooked the battery and drove it and made it back to the shop but this time the light came back on. So the guy didn’t test it and he knew it wouldn’t pass. So today I get pulled over expired tags and a ticket . I have to show I fixed the problem with my tags By November 19 . I’m so scared to drive now help . I have 2006 Toyota Corolla
Thank you for this video. You have no clue how much this has helped me. On my way to get the darn thing to reset then drive my 50-100 miles to get inspection. Hopefully I pass 🙏🏿
