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Passing a Knot on Rappel 

Ryan Tilley
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This is just one method you can use to pass a knot on a rappel if you got a core shot in your rope. This method could be used to bail off a route if rock fall caused some damage to your rope, and you just want to get off before the rock fall damages you.
patron: / ryantilleyclimbinganda...
Instagram: rtillson_
patron: / ryantilleyclimbinganda...
Instagram: rtillson_

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17 мар 2020

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Комментарии : 64   
@JohanMood
@JohanMood 2 года назад
You together with JB mountain skills makes up almost all of my climbing knowledge. Love your hands on, straight to the point teaching!
@aaronm9353
@aaronm9353 Год назад
How funny it is to see this as a top comment here of all places. I’m in the UK myself and have been binge watching videos on both channels after discovering them both one after the other for the first time recently.
@johnliungman1333
@johnliungman1333 4 года назад
Nice, Ryan. Very clear, and exactly the way I would teach it!
@channelname1818
@channelname1818 2 года назад
Hi Ryan, your demonstrations are the best! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
@torsather7693
@torsather7693 4 года назад
Thank you for sharing this great video! Your explanation is so clear!
@africansinclair
@africansinclair 2 года назад
Actions speak louder than words. Excellent demo, thanks.
@nathankenny7454
@nathankenny7454 4 года назад
You have the best content
@wolverinekut
@wolverinekut 4 года назад
Nathan Kenny exactly 👍
@namelastname2449
@namelastname2449 Год назад
Good stuff Ryan
@GizmosBushEscapes
@GizmosBushEscapes 4 года назад
Good one Ryan.I think this is the 1st video of yours where I've seen you actually on rope. nice and clear to see your method. just a quick note on wind noise (i know its difficult to deal with ) i taped a small ball of cotton wool over my cameras mic hole with insulation tape. its not a great solution but it does cut the wind noise quite a bit at no cost $. cheers
@ryantilley9063
@ryantilley9063 4 года назад
Thanks Gizmo, I'll have to give that a try, wind noise is definitely my biggest problem at the moment!
@markdavidsonjewell
@markdavidsonjewell 2 года назад
Great video.
@johng1097
@johng1097 Год назад
Thanks !
@davesmith8218
@davesmith8218 Год назад
The wind is killing your video!!!
@ecoturismovalle1570
@ecoturismovalle1570 9 месяцев назад
Excellent instruction. Thank you for posting. I need to do a quick release when rappeling to land on water for a movie scene....any thoughts?
@DavidMartinez-sf6mn
@DavidMartinez-sf6mn 2 года назад
Thanks
@gsocias
@gsocias 2 года назад
Bien!!!
@Nikky____27
@Nikky____27 3 года назад
TOUGH TAKIN LE KA THIAN👍
@clintontigges798
@clintontigges798 3 года назад
It seems since you already had a triple length sling you could have done a friction hitch to a munter mule on your belay loop and then lowered yourself on to the belay device after passing the knot.
@ryantilley9063
@ryantilley9063 3 года назад
Ya that would be a great way to get past the knot and maybe make the whole thing faster. The only problem I can see is if you lower yourself to far so you can’t get your sling back because you can’t reach the friction hitch.
@TarikVann
@TarikVann 2 года назад
This would be easier if you either munter mule, as advised above, or have an adjustable PAS to the topmost friction hitch so you can extend til the weight it on your bottom friction hitch. That being said a VT Prussik can be released under load.
@BowlineDandy
@BowlineDandy 4 года назад
Nice nice, how’s epc now? Are you staying there for the quarantine?
@ryantilley9063
@ryantilley9063 4 года назад
EPC was great, but I was down there from 2/6-23 so I got out in time to avoid the quarantine
@Mitzbergatc
@Mitzbergatc 3 года назад
If yo had used a french prusik (releasable under load) instead of a Klemheist in the first instance, you wouldn't need to make a second prusik for your leg. Just something you might want to consider. It is effectively the same system, but way more efficient.
@johngo6283
@johngo6283 2 года назад
Klemheists usually released nicely under load also. He could’ve just reached up and giving it a tug.
@Katie_Mayo
@Katie_Mayo 9 месяцев назад
Can't an alpine butterfly slip really easily? Would it be the ideal choice if your rope is core shot? Would you ever put a non locker in it to prevent slipping?
@gerpsh
@gerpsh 3 года назад
Potrero Chicoooooooo
@matthewnoland9206
@matthewnoland9206 4 года назад
Would it not be appropriate to use a VT Prusik so you could release it under load?
@ryantilley9063
@ryantilley9063 4 года назад
As long as you back up the prussic with a hard closer like the clove hitch further down the rope you can use whatever you like!
@thepowerwithin2217
@thepowerwithin2217 4 года назад
Ryan thanks for the knowledge! NOOB QUESTION- Why would there be an alpine butterfly knot midline while rock climbing?
@ryantilley9063
@ryantilley9063 4 года назад
The main reason to use this specific knot pass method is because your rope is damaged in some way, like rock fall. You and your partner are just trying to get off the climb before there is more rock fall but you have to rappel on a rope that has a core shot from a rock that fell on it, you would use some know to isolate the core shot and keep the rope able to support weight. You can use an overhand on a bight if that's your preference, but in this situation I personally prefer to use a butterfly because it's really good to be used to isolate a section of the rope that's being weighted. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@thepowerwithin2217
@thepowerwithin2217 4 года назад
@@ryantilley9063 Awesome. Really appreciate the explanation, Ryan! Be safe out there.
@scheisstag
@scheisstag 2 года назад
Another application would be, if a single rope is too short and you have to tie two ropes together. Very unlikely? Yes, but it happend already. See the infamous Eiger Nordwand incident, in which a guy died meters from safety, because he was unable to pass a knot.
@SeaBear161
@SeaBear161 3 года назад
You could tie the top kleimheist to your harness with an MMO, no? That would remove the need to down ascend if it's overhanging
@ryantilley9063
@ryantilley9063 3 года назад
You could do that, but the only problem is after you lower yourself down onto your set up you probably wouldn't be able to reach up and grab the kleimheist, which I guess wouldn't really matter if you just have the one spot to pass or if your friend is also rappelling down, then you could leave it there for them to use. If you are the only person rappelling down and you have the rope doubled over for a usual rappel, the klimbhiest will also make it totally impossible to pull your rope from the bottom. It's also good practice to keep your rescue materials with you incase you need them later on, but ya that could work if you just need to pass one section and you're leaving the rope in place.
@petemitchell2350
@petemitchell2350 3 года назад
I’ve heard people say not to use those types of slings to make prusik loops because the melting point is too low. I looked it up and it’s not a loooot lower than nylon. But do you think it’s okay to use those types of slings in this setting (that yellow prusik and the black one for the foot loop) because they aren’t sliding under tension, like a repel backup would?
@ryantilley9063
@ryantilley9063 3 года назад
Ya, it’s totally fine to use these slings in this application because they’re never sliding under tension on the rope (you slide them a little but only to move them down, when your not weighting them.) You’re right that you still wouldn’t want to use them for a third hand because of the melting point issue, thanks for watching!
@petemitchell2350
@petemitchell2350 3 года назад
@@ryantilley9063 thanks for the reply. That’s what I was wondering. Love your vids!
@solsoliiss.1102
@solsoliiss.1102 3 года назад
Does it matter, safety -wise, that you didn't return an end of your PAS to the belay loop? Thank you so much for the great video!
@ryantilley9063
@ryantilley9063 3 года назад
Hey man, the only thing that clipping the end of the rappel tether into your belay loop does is make your rappel tether redundant. While that can be important it's not super critical, and depending on the material that you are using it wouldn't do anything- like in this case with the rappel extension that I'm using isn't redundant because I have the ATC clipped into one loop. I mainly clipped that strand to my gear loop to get it out of the way.
@bestbuilder1st
@bestbuilder1st 8 месяцев назад
@@ryantilley9063 "only thing that clipping the end of the rappel tether......" making a statement like that seems like you might be covering for a bad practice, just saying. Especially in an instructional video where mostly Noobs are the viewers. I think even in one or two of your other videos You have even said it is "just good practice"- to always clip back to the belay loop.... so that when you are tired or other, you don't make the same mistake clipping something important to a gear loop.. YMMV
@jcheroske
@jcheroske Месяц назад
Since you know you're going to have to pass a knot, why not rig up with a non-extended rappel and a VT on top? If you attach the VT to your adjustable lanyard, then you're already most of the way done when you get to the knot.
@Ghost-wn2zs
@Ghost-wn2zs 3 года назад
👍🏽👍🏽
@Gonxu90
@Gonxu90 4 года назад
That footage is from Potrero chico, am I right?
@ryantilley9063
@ryantilley9063 4 года назад
Yep, we filmed the video on the first pitch of Dope Ninja
@wolverinekut
@wolverinekut 4 года назад
if I have only one of half rope could I go down and up on it? thank you in advance for your reply
@ryantilley9063
@ryantilley9063 4 года назад
Are you talking about ascending the rope or using it as a lead line? Many people will use a single half rope to lead climb on but it’s usually in terrain where it will be very unlikely for them to fall, like in a more alpine setting. You can defiantly rappel on one.
@wolverinekut
@wolverinekut 4 года назад
Ryan Tilley yes lead line
@DanniBee
@DanniBee 11 месяцев назад
Dope Ninja?
@johngo6283
@johngo6283 2 года назад
Overall this is showing a good technique, but if you use a little know how it’s very rare you should ever have to do it. If you’re doing a double rope rappel, and you know there is a knot in one strand, you don’t need to deal with passing it. Step one, fix the good strand of the rope to the anchor, and have the first person rap on that single strand. Step 2, first person down ties the end of the rope to themselves, or to the next anchor, or to a tree on the ground, or something similar. This is also called a counter balanced rappel. Then the last person raps on the single strand. When they are down, you pull in the side with the knot. Everybody down, fast, smooth, easy, no need to pass the knot. If for some reason you do choose to do it the way that’s shown in the video, only the last person down needs to do this kind of shenanigan. Everybody else can go down with one side of the rope secured to the anchor and use one strand.
@xaviergorloo8050
@xaviergorloo8050 2 года назад
Any way to rephrase step 2 because it makes no sense to me
@jeffreyschmidt3997
@jeffreyschmidt3997 Год назад
Why not just do the single rope rappel with a carabiner block on the side with damaged rope?
@johngo6283
@johngo6283 Год назад
@@jeffreyschmidt3997 that can work, but it comes with its own set of issues.
@jeffreyschmidt3997
@jeffreyschmidt3997 Год назад
@@johngo6283 thanks for the quick reply. I haven't had any issues with this but probably lack the experience you do. What kind of trouble have you had or heard of? Appreciate you sharing
@johngo6283
@johngo6283 Год назад
@@jeffreyschmidt3997 The carabiner can get banged up pulling it down the rock. The carabiner can get stuck in a crack or hung up on bushes. If The master point is another carabiner, the one you add may not be big enough to be an effective block. Most of the time it works pretty well, but I like everything in claiming there’s some subjectivity involved with choosing the best technique for a given situation.
@pscllc4604
@pscllc4604 Год назад
COULDNT HEAR A WORD YOU SAID
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