Pasta alla norcia is a fantastic, simple, traditional Umbrian dish. It is the very definition of a "comfort food". So it came up in my RU-vid feed, and several very good cooks made it completely differently, and many of them claimed "authenticity". So I had to iron that out a bit.
What is "authentic"? Italian Americans cook fantastically. It's practically genetic. But when your family lands in the USA, and is mixed with other Italians from Piedmont to Puglia, recipes drift. Usually they get even better. This is the true power of the melting pot. To me, "authentic" means as the local culture here in Italy agrees. It is for them to say, and they do. So please, don't claim authenticity as it is disrespectful to thousands and thousands of actual working Italians who keep the country running and preserve local traditions.
Now what do local Umbrians call "authentic" Pasta alla Norcia? I have been lucky to have been served this dish by Umbrians, and have had some very interesting "conversations" about pasta alla norcia specifically, very specifically. Now that is not to say there is exactly one true agreed pasta alla norcia. Especially when passions flare when Umbrians and other Italians discuss this or any food!
What I have found from these "discussions" (semi-heated debates!) is:
* Garlic: It is OK to use garlic with the onions, or even garlic alone.
* Deglazing: with wine or pasta water is OK. when I say OK, I don't mean these folks agree, heaven forbid, but I mean these are person-to-person variations within the overall local theme.
*THE SAUSAGE MUST BE NORCIA SAUSAGE! On that there is 100% agreement, and the local discussion group includes 2 former professional chefs and perhaps 10 native Umbrians. The cooking gene is strong with these ones.
*Cheese: Not in the sauce. But that's local. Meaning within my town. Across the valley a couple of kilometers away, they might have something different to say. The local word on the cheese is it's OK to top the dish with a little. A sprinkle of nutmeg is often used around here with or without "a little" grated cheese.
*The cream: everyone here uses panna di cucina. I suspect it is a shortcut, and perhaps at one time, or in other localities Vincenzos method is, or was, the thing. We have to remember panna di cucina is perhaps only 100 years (or so?) old. I'm going to ask around about Vincenzos method, and have a drive over to Norcia planned to see what they have to say over there.
Anyway, excuse me for "romperti le palle" a bit of the fantastic Italians who are second, third, etc. generation Americans for preserving these great arts. Here are links to a couple great variations, all with great additional tricks:
* This is the recipe that got my underwear twisted: • how to make creamy PAS... a great recipe, expertly prepared, and I'm 100% certain it's wonderful.
* Vincenzo's plate: • Ricetta Pasta alla Nor... This guy uses a little truffle, which is probably fantastic. And the way ricotta is used to make the cream is worth more than a look. I will ask around on this one, and expect fireworks.
* Pappagallo is respected by my consiglieri: • Ricetta Pasta alla Nor...
* This guy, Chef Jean-Pierre, I don't think is even Italian, • Pasta alla Norcina | C... He's cooking for a professional restaurant environment so takes a few "over the top" modifications that are perhaps beyond the family table variety. Despite not being Italian, Jean-Pierre is a really funny passionate goofball.
1 окт 2024
