Pattern Routing 

Conor- Good questions. Disclaimer: Although I enjoy and agree with the content of this video, I am not aquainted with Glen Huey or Popular Woodworking, in any way. 1. It doesn't matter, unless your particular pattern or workpiece would appear to you to bennefit from one way over the other. Keep this in mind though: If your template is on the bottom you'll have the added danger of the cutter being exposed at the top of your workpiece, and you need to be very carefull therefore, as to where you place your hands while guiding your work. 2. Climb cut when there's a greater chance (or a likelyhood) of tearout. Typically when cutting "across" end grain or over wild or interlocking grain. The router can be somewhat more difficult to control during climbcut because the direction of router movement is the same as the direction of bit rotation, therefore the router wants to "run away". To counter this one needs to hold it extra firmly against the work. 3. He's using (what appears to me) to be 1/2" baltic birch ply. Baltic birch is one of my favorite pattern woods also, because it dense, with no edge holes or defects (notice the thin, tight, multi layers), and durable, holding its edge nicely over long term repeated use. Any plywood that has a nice flat smooth face and an edge with no defects is sufficient. Some woodworkers use MDF, because its abundant and economical. Even plexiglass makes a good pattern, but its expensive and more difficult to machine. 4. When it comes to making patterns, you do whatever is easiest for you. There is no "preferred way". I don't think I've ever downloaded or printed from the internet, but noting wrong with that if you have the ways and means, and find what you want. Same with photocopying, I never have, but if thats practical for you, just do it. I usually design my own patterns, for chair parts or table legs, for example. Sometimes I'll be copying an existing design. When doing that, if possible I'll trace the existing part (or parts) onto rigid thin cardboard, thin plywood or MDF 1/8" or 1/4", or even just paper where applicable. On occassion I've had to trace the parts of a chair or table in its fully assembled, in use condition. We do what we have to. Sometimes the pattern design needs to be built in a process. For example it might first be scetched on paper, then transfered to plywood, then cut out and refined.

Wow people will complain about anything

Bearing-guided router bits are available from most woodworking retailers. Search for pattern router bits. Beyond diameter and bearing location, you'll also find cutting length to be important when deciding what to buy. Let us know if you've got more questions!

Jake you should check out Glen’s website, 360 woodworking.