George L cables, like most guitar patch cables, have a centre core which is the guitar signal, and a wire mesh just below the black covering, this is the shield which also acts as the ground for the signal. When you insert the cable into the plug, the force you apply strips back the shielding and leaves the centre wire to connect to the tip of the plug. When you put the cap on, it cuts through the black coating and the cap touches the shielding and passes that along the outside of the plug to the sleeve (the area that's not the tip) Do that to both ends of the cable and you''re connected tip to tip, and sleeve to sleeve, and that's what you need.
Thanks for this video! Question: if you're running your guitar into some mono pedals before it gets your stereo pedals, can you still get a stereo output by using the TRS Y splitting cable and would it be best to order them a certain way (outside of how you want to sculpt the sound) to maintain that stereo channel?
Yeah those are notoriously unreliable . They don't last I don't get all younger guys you buy all these expensive pedals and then you guys cheap out on the chords.
If you're serious about cables you simply don't use solderless cables. And if you're going to the trouble of making your own (which you should) then get a soldering iron and do it the right way. A reliable quality soldering iron is something any serious guitar-/bass player should have any way. And regarding noise - the best way to make sure you eliminate noise is to get a quality switch mode power supply like the Cioks DC7. The length of your patch cables is not really the main thing you need to worry about unless you make them ridiculously long. The length of the cable/cables that run from your pedalboard to you amp/amps or the one between your guitar and your pedalboard on the other hand are a much bigger issue.
