Sometimes it's the simplest things that are truly genius. This is an incredibly awesomely simple bit of engineering. I'm gonna spend the rest of the day tryin to get my jaw off the floor
Awesome video... came across this trying to find neck shaping jigs, and have to say after visiting your site, you make some of the prettiest guitars I've ever seen. AMAZING work, sir. Kudos to you.... was immensely impressed with your back of neck inlays. Wow... have never even heard of anyone doing it before, and you have it mastered. I'm a pool player too, and they remind me of custom pool cues, and such. Very inspirational. Keep up the stellar work.
Next couple of weeks I'll be designing this jig,... but I'm gonna build in an adjustable slope follower between the 2 templates. The only problem with this would be that when the sides of the neck would have the same curve as the back. So I'm thinking I'll have to do back(concave) and sides(straight) with a minimum of 2 templates, so I'll have lot's of fun designing another slope follower between the back curve and side curve. Greets
Genius! I like how the jig is able to index different radiuses by stacking them at each end. No more swapping out profile wheels (half wheels in this case). I'm wondering if I could modify an old drill press running at its highest RPM w/ an up-cut bit to serve as a milling machine?
I know Im repeating everyone here, but is there any way you could give us the blueprints for this bad boy? More specifically, maybe traced copies of the cam shapers, and the distance between them (so the proportions will be correct)? If not man, I think we all will totally understand... this is your baby, and one ridiculously brilliant and inventive baby at that. You rock man!!!
The link below will take you to the original plans for this jig. just keep your eye out for the pdf. www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/123054-new-member-poplar-tele-build-8.html
Thanks for sharing. I am going to make one similar to integrate with my pin router. I’m curious where you got your aluminum sliding mechanisms from? Thanks
So this can do a multitude of compound radii and even any other shape so long as the indexer can follow it. You can use different on each side and they will blend naturally. This is awesome. The guides or templates on each side only need to fit there, the depth is still controlled by the bit depth. Is that correct?
technical question here: How did you determine the pivot point for your pucks? That bolt hole location is something that doesnt seem to get any listings. Thx
You said it holds 6-8 profiles, but as you stack them in, wouldn't it affect the overall thickness of the neck shape? or do you adjust bit depth for that somehow? I would think you would be essentially condensing the shape along it's length.
this thing doesnt clone, it just applies a TWO DIMENSIONAL profile shape to anything set into the jig when rotated and skid back and fourth under a drill press/router type rotary cutting element... though i see multiple ways of making a superb full on cloner by taking this up a couple notches
@@andreydyumaev5131 I'm not sure you have the same understanding of the question that I do. Perhaps jmel23515 can comment but I believe the question asks that if you put the blocks that control the height of the jig in different places, won't that affect the gradient of the shape between them or the position of the desired shape on the neck. A block could be right up against the outside edge of the jig, or be 'inside' the jig due to two further blocks already being in the stack. And I would answer that yes, it would change the shape, although not much simply because the jig is long and the angles involved very shallow.
@@remingtonatcheson8106 Granted, this is an exaggerated example for clarity, yet do you agree that XXXXX- _XXXXX and X- _X have different slopes from the dash character to the underscore? The X's represent other profiles, stacked up but not being used, the dash and underscore represent the face of the profile being used (i.e. how high the combination of the profile and indexer are positioning the neck).
need a design modification that turns it into a real neck cloner? like using a router bearing bit on a template, just in glorious freely movable, self stopping 3d, cloning shapes off the real thing without the need for template production, and producing output near or at finish grade? well okay glorious 2.5d, freely movable where a need to trace/follow the profile of one side of smooth item like the back of a neck is concerned, but in actuality limited to 180° roll range (90 right 90 left), and able to replicate a side at a time, and only perfectly detailed insofar as sweeping motions back and forth over a roller guide could "read" (ie no fretboards preslotted for frets or trying to make body clones that'd emerge predrilled for pots)
why "Blow up" the profile... my brain is stuck in a box that tells me the patterns at either end should be exactly the size you'd want the neck to be... please explain.
No, but I think Ive come up with a way to do it. I also have a pin router, so I figured that instead of trying to take a pattern found online and blowing it up 200% or more, that it would be easier to put an existing neck in the fixture and rig up a roller over the neck at the nut end. If you place a blank at the eccentrics position, and place that under the router bit, as you rotate the neck back and forth, it will cut the profile for that particular neck. Swap around the roller to the other end of the neck, and cut the other eccentric. You now have an exact replica-or at least the templates to make a replica-of a favorite neck, or at least a way to replicate an existing neck. Im pretty sure you could cut the fingerboard radius the same way.
ccreddell You are absolutely right!!! It took me a few minutes to figure it out since you have to account for the taper of the neck and the difference in thickness at several places. Once you do that, the rest is easy. The way you propose is much easier if you have that particular instrument. Thank you for your response!!!
I'd imagine the simplest way to translate would be to use a 'profile contour gauge' tool (sold at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.) to establish the contour, trace it onto a piece of paper and then blow it up (200%, 300% or whatever size the radius is of the "puck" on the jig) on your printer. Take that, cut it out, apply spray adhesive to the back of it and stick it on a scrap piece of plywood and cut it out on a band saw or use a jigsaw. Use a sander to fine tune.
JoseitoEdlVodao it's plywood, and probably a good grade, like baltic birch. Much better stability than solid wood. Another reason for using wood (ply) rather than other materials would be the cost.
