Copy a Guitar Neck with a Profile Jig, Revisited, in Greater Detail 

The best things we can do as human beings is to share the knowledge! You've definitely fulfilled the brief Randy so thank you! 👍👍

I have watched many videos regarding these jigs, and they all leave me with a question or two, most notably, how to copy an existing neck profile to the jig. After watching your clear and detailed video, all questions have been answered. Thanks for taking the time to share with us.

Brilliant! - I'm making one for uke necks. A job I can't do on my CNC without spending a fortune on 3D software! A further mod might be a perspex cover box that the router runs along a slot with adjustable end stops. The box allows extraction and you can still see the job. Thank you so much for your work Randy.

Best explanation so far of how to create suitable cams for the actual cutting. Good work!

So good! Clearly explained, measurements, and you show how you adjust your design to make it better. Thank you!

Thank you so much for for your time and effort making this video. . I have successfully made four Strat necks using this jig.

Fantastic. Best explanation of a neck copying jig that I’ve seen. I’m definitely going to give it a try.

What a wealth of knowledge !! thanks for posting this

This is a very bright idea. I have been looking for something similar. God bless you

Love your videos! Thanks for doing them.

fantastic content , I see some neck building in my future🤠

Great stuff, thanks a million.

Very Skilled my friend!!!

very informative!! thanks man

Cool revisions. Good video...

This is awesome. Thanks!

Genius.

think you could make a arch top jig as well wat im thinking is to use the router mounted on a arm hinged on one end to a rail mecanism that can move the arm across the body possibly using a window motor and a piece of alltread to move it smoothly towards the center of the rotating body the body be spinning horizontally and the other end of the arm opposite the hinge moving over the jig thats rotating at the same speed using a chain and two sprockets the arm moving along a track from the outside toward the center (maibe using a windshield wiper motor driving a piece of alltread to move it smoothly ) and cut the arch in a spiral pattern from the outside in to make the jig / cam mould you need to be using an existing archtop body and mount the router on the other end of the setup to cut the jig , since the jig sits on the end of the arm and furter away from the original the jig will end up larger than the part you be making , think the jig could be made from mdf think the whole "machine" end up about 3 times the size of a guitarbody both in length and width another thing you probably need to do when making the jig is create sumting that prevent a too harsh hit of both the bearing follower and the routerbit against the edges of the guitar shape , think the jig/ cam mould would need to be round and have ramps intoo the arch wish you might need to make by placing a board cut perfectly around the original guitar shape youre making the mould off and raise that board untill its level with the edges of the binding , or set a stop on the arm so it doesnt go below that edge when cutting the cam jig

awesome videos Randy using your jigs and love them The question I have is how to make a cam/puck without a neck to copy I have a CAD file for a guitar but there's no profile Look forward to your Genius ideas Thanks so much

Juts trying to think how to look in a headstock that is angled back a bit?

I have been wondering if there is a way to make just one frame that can do any scale length neck shaping. I have to think on it some more. I am now a subscriber to your channel. Thanks!

Randy, Ive got a question if you could answer please. I build this jig not quite the same but close. But to the point. Ive been practicing on pine before I use the real thing. the first time I did it the neck came out fine, the next time I tried it gave me a larger not sure how to word this. Progressive bottom and less top of the neck shape. My guess is because the neck wasn't centered? maybe? Thank you By the way great videos learned a lot for ya. Thanks

I've watched this three times already all the way through. I might need help.

How do you determine the profile of those risers on the runners that lift the sled and create the transitions?

Question: on the removable pieces, with the dowels that ride on the original neck to mark the pucks, the length of the part of the dowel that is sticking out is 3/4"? I'm assuming 3/4" for the MDF board that rides between the sides and another 3/4" of dowel sticking out for a total of 1.5" from the top of the rails to the bottom of the dowel, correct? I made mine to ride on top of the rails, with the dowel sticking out 1.5", just like the router bit, and with test cuts, it's cutting the sides of the neck too narrow, but the thickness is fine. It looks like the pucks are being marked too narrow, and I can't figure out why. Any suggestions?

Are all elements of the jig are the same in thickness? If not, the length of slide and the innner cam would not fit each other. Please let me know the thickness, or we can't build the jig like you. I think the Thickness would be 0.75 inch, right? plus, what is the size of a bearing (R)? wonderfull work!

obrigado

Would it be possible to use this jig to radius fretboards too? Seems it would be particularly great for compound radius fretboards.

I noticed the new ramps on the side rails ( on the guitar version) but you don't mention them. Is that to get a smooth transition to the headstock and neck pocket?

wow, Thank you for your quick answer. okay, today, I made a plan on cad for a jig. here's another one, you are using two different jigs for each guitar and bass. If I make only one jig for both, then make each cams and use them alternatively, does the lengh of a entire jig really affect the result? I wish your answer here.

this is very cool and i'm way to lazy to replicate it

Is this all made of MDF?

WOW, so cool!!. I started to build my own Bass jig a few days ago and this is a great help. I now have a much better understanding , tomorrow I'm slotting the carriage, my end pieces are done, then moving on to the cams. I was thinking of making the cam blanks slightly larger and cutting the stops right out of the cam sides (like bumpouts) to stop the carriage from turning more than the edge of the neck. Cool adjustment at the heel. Anyhow, loved this video, thank you again. Please show the final results of the completed bass necks.

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