Peltonen M95 & M07 Ranger Puukko Knives 1 year review 

Thx for watching and taking time to comment! Blessings the ocd hunter.

Thank you for watching! And commenting, blessings the ocd hunter

You know I pulled the spec of the site, I might have done the wrong version. I had lamnia.com watch too and they missed that too. Thanks for the catch! Blessings, the ocd hunter.

@@TheOCDHunter I have the M95 standard Teflon coating and I’m really impressed with it.

@@ixlr8tyes I was impressed too. Not my favorite knife but definitely dependable!

I agree.

Full tang ✌️

Don’t currently have one of those, but I’ll look at getting one and compare. Thanks for watching, blessings the ocd hunter.

Thx for watching and commenting blessings the ocd hunter

The Peltonen knives are factory sharpened to a 25° edge (I confirmed this from the company), they deem that angle to be the best average performer in both heavy and delicate tasks with the 80CrV2 steel. Usually these kind of knives have a 22° or 23° angle, so sharpening an M95/M07 to these angles will take a while, if that's what the owner is used to doing. I use the Worksharp Guided Field Sharpener for field maintenance of these knives, it helps bring back the 25° edge very easily. I have a few Peltonen knives and they are super sharp (shave, paper cut etc) both right out of the box and after stropping or a sharpening session. The ones I use the most keep their edge with a ceramic and a strop for a long time. You only need the diamond plate after a chip has formed from heavy hitting or a grain of sand in the wood to be batoned.

@@max_ljv Thank you for leting me know! 25 isn't a balanced edge though. That's the standard for 20 degrees.TRC Mille Cuori, which comes with WAY harder steel (same knife category though),is set at 19 degrees from the "factory"! 25 degrees, is what I put to my chopers! That's wierd though, because on videos I've seen these knives, they cut like they have a less than 18 degrees. My guess, is they they got a slicier main bevel geometry, to be able to keep the edge tough like a tank, with the 25 degrees they put,without sacrificing the overall slicing ability!!!

@@greekveteran2715 Yes; the Sabre grind is 7.5 degrees which makes it very slicy 👍 and the 25° secondary bevel is quite small, just to give it strength. That's good for general military conscript use in the wilderness. Usually Puukko style knives have a 10 degree main bevel, either with or without a micro bevel (usually 22 or 23° here in Finland). "True scandi" knives without a secondary bevel (or with a scandivex) are nice but require a super steel that costs a hunderd bucks more. One example of the knives with 80CrV2 not-super steel are the Terävä knives that have a 10° main bevel and 23° secondary bevel, and about the same price point as the Peltonen. (The Terävä Skramas have a 34° secondary bevel for whacking into wooden things.) The Teräväs feel a lot bulkier in use: you'll want to use them to whack tree branches, while with the Peltonen you'll want to cut the branch cleanly.

@@max_ljv Thanks but why you brought Scandi grinds to the table? These are a completely different kind of grind. As for the micro bevels, that's only a thing on the very cheap mass produced knives, that the factories put, to create a sharp edge faster and with less cost. Micro bevels do not offer anything, other than making a knife a poor performer on any task.. They DO NOT offer edge stability, because it's still a flat V edge bevel.What offers edge stability, is a slight convex geometry. Anyway, in any case, any new knife ,must be sharpened properly, before it's used. As for the steel, to show it's abilitites, it has to be sharpened for at least 2 to 3 times (full sharpening sessions I mean) to show what edge retention and what edge stability it can provide. (That's why many people, complain that their knive's edges chip or roll easily, it's usually,because they use their knives, with the poor facory edges, that neither have a proper edge, nor have the "burnt" steel removed. As for the Scandi grinds, these provide the least edge stability and edge retention, compared to any other type of grind, where the Saber grind on Pentlonen knives, provide the most edge stability,so it's the opposite, to a scandi.Sorry for the long message! I just hate microbevels and the lies of the industry, that it's a "good feature.. well, it's the worst from any point of view, that's why only cheap knives come with it.

I respectfully disagree - a draw cut is designed to be safe. As you draw the knife - your fist is designed to run into your chest -so if for some reason I did slip with the blade - all that would happen is I would basically punch myself with the bottom of my fist. And my out stretched arm is much lover than it looks on video. Plus with a draw cut it is a very controlled motion. I appreciate your concern for safety though! And I could see if someone did incorrectly they could have an issue. Knife safety is very important. And thanks for watching and commenting. Blessings the ocd hunter😮

@@TheOCDHunter Thank you for such a quick reply. My concern is not so much for yourself , as you are a really great knife handler. What would concern me more would be a young or unexperienced person trying to copy you and causing themseves harm because they are not as competent as you are. "I saw a guy on Utube do it just like this" sort of thing. Happy Trails.

@@clivedunning4317yep you are totally right about experience makes a difference. I’m glad you commented so it will maybe it will help out some people!!!!!! Blessings!