I was so impressed with the results on my trim, I even used Penetrol on the extremely faded, almost starting to rust hood of my 2003 Tahoe. My goal was just to slow down the weathering of the Texas sun. Cheap and effective. 👍
Thanks! After reviewing many products, including your two videos on this, I went ahead this morning and applied the Penetrol to the cladding on my 2004 Honda Element EX which looked great when I bought it a year ago. but had turned faded gray after the heavy rains. It looks spectacular now. I put it on a bit thick with a foam brush and microfiber cloth. Thought about buffing it out but it looked so good. I'll give it a good time to dry before I drive it. Wish I had a photo to show. We'll see how it hold up. Thanks again.
@@tongo117 Just bought another gallon for future use. :) I used almost a quart as I was covering large areas of cladding. And as mentioned I put it on generously. Some people had issues with some of the other products I looked into that were then hard to undo. And a number required a lot of prep before applying. For this I just thoroughly washed my Element. And it came out great. Thanks.
Sending a huge thanks from the U.K, we don't have this product but I knew exactly what to look for from watching your other video (and this one) where you mention the ingredients and drying time 🥰
Preparation of the surface is key regardless of which product u put on, on this case i would degrease and scrub the whole area then repeat a few times till u don't see any substance thats bonded to the plastic, then u apply the products letting the plastic absorb as much as it can, wipe off excess, let it dry for a day and repeat the application.
Thank you for the one year update. The only hesitation it gives me, if I apply it. Then need to remove it or treate it in another way, I would have a very hard time removing it.
I'm not sure you can remove either one once applied.. The first time I used Penetrol was in 2016 on my 95 Honda Accord which I still have.. I reapply once a year or so and it darkens to the original patina each time..
@Sybreed117 I was wondering about this too. About how to remove it if it didn't work. I found a review on a Volkwagen site from a guy who used it to coat the fiberglass top on his VW Vanagon Pop-Top. It wasn't that it didn't work. It looked great at first. It was that when he applied a second coat later on there was a fire less than a day after he applied it ,and it wasn't dry, and the ash from the fire made a mess of it. So he needed to clean that up. What he eventually found was Easy-Off Oven cleaner did the trick. Dissolved the Penetrol. I'm sure this would be messy, but you can probably do it with great care. Hopefully I won't need to.
Cool test, has anyone noticed streaking? I have a white car with black horizontal door trim. I use Mothers Back to Black. I notice that: 1) water flows down it vertically, and leaves vertical streaks/stripes (when parked, the water flows down the doors vertically, and washes away some of the back to black, leaving light-colored lines) 2) the product then drips onto the white paint, leaving dark lines. Neither of those things are permanent. They're just cosmetic nuisances.
That's worth a try.. I'm just letting mine age and will try reapplying Penetrol at some point.. But as it ages the clear distinction between the two on the front bumper remains..
@@onanysundrymule3144 i mean when you tried to go over the linseed oil with the pentetrol. I do detail work and redye plastics a lot and i give them a very through alcohol wipe, i speay it on heavy and give it a minute to soak in. It removes any waxes, grease, any stuff like that and the dye absorbs better and more evenly. Sometimes rather than alcohol ill use panel prep that you use before painting, at orileys dupicolor has one, Dupicolor Wax and Grease remover. ALSO, when trying to match like you were doing, you cant go over both sides because your darkening the other side, put your tape back and go over the linseed side until its matching the penteteol side. I would wipe the entire thing down with alcohol a could times and try going over it with Solution Finish and let it set over night, but even with that you might need to do the linseed side extra to get color match.
I put the flood product on my daughters faded headlights. Work well and faster than maguires Although last year i put on maguires after a lot of years of neglect.
This is the one I used.. Bought from Home depot: www.homedepot.com/p/Flood-Penetrol-1-Qt-Clear-Paint-Additive-FLD4-04/100130893?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D24-024_020_PAINT_SPRYR-NA-Multi-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-FY21_Sundries_PLALIA_JControl24&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D24-024_020_PAINT_SPRYR-NA-Multi-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-FY21_Sundries_PLALIA_JControl24-71700000075826922-58700006496910114-92700058691144845&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwy8i0BhAkEiwAdFaeGExHinkh-sV3ojBqP9Z6IYR3POWbvrNM_E10c8C5FrCKwtJ_avNXxxoCtxYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Did you even IPA the bumper first? My linseed oil / mineral spirits application is going on 5 years and still looks perfect. Have never tried Penetrol. Will do that ... Cerakote is the longest lasting and #1 "retail" product based on qualified tests. BUT does not last as long as linseed oil / mineral spirits.
@@onanysundrymule3144 IPA it's isopropylic alcohol, we use it in car detailling to degrease/prep some areas before apply stuff like coatings, ceramic...
Penetrol was the clear winner here. Is it possible that the boiled linseed oil wasn't fully dry and cured before the vehicle was driven and got dust embedded in the finish? I would be interested to know @tongo117 recollection of how long after application the vehicle was driven, and what the finish looked like after a month or so to see if that was the case. Either way, go with penetrol. Thank you for the initial test and the update.
