Perfect Pinion Shimming Tutorial 

Thank you for your kind words :) Let me know if there's anything you'd like to see in future videos and I'll do my best to record something useful.

Thank you very much :) Let me know if there’s anything specific you’d like to see in future videos.

@@KingdomofAirsoftUK naah im very experienced with aegs, i just noticed you were first to show shimming correctly :)

Cheers :) Most of my daily tools are PB Swiss and Engineer from Japan.

Aye, modifications to the method are necessary for RIFs with a covered lower bearing like the MP5 and Scorpion Evo. I have spare lowers with holes drilled through them so I can set the height using the customer’s base plate. Otherwise you do have to ‘brute force’ the shimming by getting it roughly correct and adjusting it incrementally.

That is the goal for every gear in theory, maximum tooth contact with no binding and perfect position inside the gearbox. We all know this is not possible given the tolerances Airsoft parts are made to so this is the method I developed to produce the best results for any given set of parts. The bevel/pinion interaction is non-negotiable so everything else must stem from that. If the bevel sits too high for an acceptable mesh throughout the rest of the gears then the only option is to change components, either a thicker bevel or a smaller pinion.

That's certainly a consideration. I've yet to encounter a setup where the sector is necessarily shimmed so low that it would interfere with the lower PCB of a control unit and cannot be raised. In the rare case that might happen (we're talking 0.01% of cases here) you could use a TM NGRS style bevel gear where the ARL steps raise straight up from the lower teeth. That would allow the spur to be shimmed at any height and so the sector too :)

@@KingdomofAirsoftUK thanks Sam.

That sounds like something isn’t sitting straight. I’d suggest either the bushings/bearings aren’t correctly aligned in the shell, one of the gear exiles is bent or there’s dirt/damage on the teeth. If you’re testing one gear at a time, that would suggest one of the first two issues.

@@KingdomofAirsoftUK this is my problem with every bevel gear and pinion I have tried ever. SHS, seigtech, crappy Chinese pinions, you name it. When I'm testing this it's only using the bevel to pinion gear. I has only seen one other RU-vidr rotate the bevel gear when testing the side to side knocking with the bevel to pinion and notice that the gear on one turn can be super loose and the next be really tight. I also tried out your method with the filler Guage and it showed that I had about .38mm of open play so when I put .2mm it completely bound the pinion. I am by no means saying your method is wrong because it's the best method, but something is seriously up with every F'N gearbox I touch!

Not enough to mess with the tolerances :) I use Superlube PTFE grease (grey tube) and it works perfectly.

@@KingdomofAirsoftUK Superlube is the bomb.

@@KingdomofAirsoftUK hi sam , have you seen the new superlube dropper pens? Thinner than the original but awesome stuff and have several uses ie tappet plate rails etc

I generally do this on every gun I use and certainly every gun I upgrade or work on. It’s a great way to improve efficiency and stave off any potential issues before they can cause damage. Everything gets a thin layer of grease once the shimming is finished :)

@@KingdomofAirsoftUK Look forward to watching the rest of your videos.

I do indeed. It reduces friction on the piston and removes any casting defects or burrs that can wear parts prematurely. It also helps keep the grease clean for longer :)

Yup, it'll work on basically every airsoft gun out there. I use this method on every gun, including the TM SCAR-H :)

The process is identical. You still want a maximum of 0.1mm play but now some of that movement will be from the (tiny) amount of play inherent in the bearings.

@@KingdomofAirsoftUK thanks for Intel Mate , i'll subscribe