Love the credits in your video description ! ahah. it really looks like you have a huge team with you. some request and question for your consideration: - would you be able to modify a couple of parts to allow for larger camera body ? - I do not have the need, but I would second the comment on controling the focus ring. - I would definitly second the suggestion on selling kits. (in my case, I can print and source the extrusion, but having to source all the bits and pieces from various suppliers is a show-stopper) - you might mention it, but it would be great to have a simple way to program a movement (set start and stop positions, position vs time curve with some set points, etc.) Anyway thanks a lot for sharing. I came from hackaday, glad I clicked and now I'll subscribe.
Isaac, Great project. I have put together a 1.5 meter version, but I am not understanding how to connect Xbox controller via USB. I noticed the Xbox main.cpp file but not sure what to do with it :(
Awesome work, mate, and great refinements! I have a suggestion for your next version: you could some of the inexpensive slip rings available from the usual sources. If you were to use one for the slider motor and hall sensor, there would be less wear and tear on those leads with the added bonus of no limit on X axis rotation.
Excellent work, and I have a question, in the github project, there is a folder that says "Xbox One Controller for Pan Tilt Mount" Is it possible to control it with an xbox controller? And could you make a video explaining a little more the electronics and the control of this slider?
Great Work! I recently started to create my own 3-Axis Camera Slider and just found out about your project - it would have saved me a lot of hassle if I had seen it earlier :D At the moment I have one motor attached to the slider itself, but I actually like the idea of having it on the carriage to reduce the cable mess. Looking forward for more content.
Wow, this is great!! Starting the prints today. Have you ever considered adding lens control (Focus, Zoom). I would love to be able to do a precise Dolly Zoom.
@@isaac879 please do look into these. This set has potential to work as as remote controlled videocamera set up for low budget multicamera online streaming. with or without the slider. Ad some extra pre set points and this could turn normal videocamera to rival PTZ cameras.
Thank You Issac879 ! You have done the DIY community a huge favor with all of your video demonstrations, plus your written parts lists and instructions. ... In my case it's the Camera Slider build you have worked on so diligently! I am currently in the process of attempting to create a 1500mm long slider using a 4080 C-Beam V-Rail as the base. We make a lot of short films in my part of the world, and many different camera rigs are used in these productions that are quite a bit heavier than the DSLR Issac's rig was designed for. So my build will have to be adapted to those situations. Much of my "hardware/metal components" for the slider have been ordered and is on its' way to me here in Oregon, USA. I have designed the carriage to be balanced out with an opposing motion of "equal" weight under the slider so that it can be used (hopefully) in any position, from horizontal up- to vertical slider shots, and possibly also inverted (we'll see about that after it's been built!). I'm hoping to use a double belt drive looping over each end of the slider, attached to each of the top and bottom carriages, but I don't know if that will be strong enough... I might need to also use a screw drive, and / or a thin braided metal cable to keep the cameras safe from a belt drive failure "runaway"? If anyone on here, including Issac of course, has any advice, or perhaps some experience with such a build I'd be pleased to learn more about it. I have a LOT TO LEARN (regarding re-engineering much of the 3D print models Issac built, etc, to make my version of Issac's build come to life to help make some really amazing shots! Thanks everyone!
Now I work with you project to create new model for Nikon D850. Thank you very match for this project. But this slider for me is very lightweight. I need more strong and now I think for create it. If you have any idea contact with me.
Excellent work, consider getting a roll of PETG if you have never used it, I found that PLA is prone to cracking if under strain for any length of time, it may have been a bad batch, but since switching to PETG I doubt I will ever use PLA again.
Printed two of these in PETG now -- can back off the infill a bit since it's so much stronger. I was worried about dimensional differences with parts but they are spot on though the 2040 endpieces needed some deburring. The challenge of PETG is the temperatures, I tend to print PLA in the Summer and PETG as combined heat and printing (CHP) in the Winter. ;)
Hello, maybe you can help me. I think many of us are suffering with how to upload the files to the Arduino. Could you give a step-by-step explanation of how to install everything on the Arduino? Thank you.
isaac879, this project is just great! There are no such open source projects in Russia. Well done. It would be wonderful if you added an initial slight acceleration (transition to the current speed) and a smooth stop along all axes. That is, without a sharp start and braking. Otherwise, everything in your project is wonderful. Good luck with your projects.With best wishes from Russia!
I've already built this one on my own and posted it on your thingiverse "makes". Take a look. I have 3 questions bothering me, but I don't actually understand C++ that much so I can't change it. 1. You decided to use panoramiclapse and timelapse for cameras to take pictures. It means it has to stop every time you trigger a shutter. Most people now use sliders as cameras to make a videos (product showups, b-rolls, etc.), they don't need panoramiclapse and timelapse to stop each time. Even if I change my msdelay to 0ms, it still stops, for like 0,5 sec making everything to shake. What can I change in the code in order to not stop everyshot, but just smoothly go from Keyframe 0 to Keyframe X without any unnecessary stops? I am not making a photography, I'm using slider to create timelapses with like 1hour, so I don't need to stop my camera to take a shot, because it doesn't blur anyway, it's too slow. I tried around and put a command ";" but before I used "W" command to slow it down, but it's kinda tricky... 2. My commands according to intercept point don't really work as expected. I create 2 keyframes, I press "T", i get coordinates. I click "[" to go back to first keyframe (it goes back good way, its just opposite). I enter "@2" and... my slider goes good way, but Pan axis is going like crazy, turning like 300 degree to the side and ends looking in totally different direction, not on object. Are you sure the code you uploaded is okay? 3. A few days ago I uploaded your code. Commands e.g. "p20" and "t20" worked fine, it was turning with 20 degree. Now I downloaded your code again (had to wait for new arduino, my old one got burnt), uploaded it and... now Pan degrees are doubled (when i put p90, it goes to 180), and my Tilt angle is quadruple (when I put t90 it goes back to 0). Did you mess something around the code lately? Slider axis works perfectly fine. I have a few more questions and bothers so it work fully perfect, if you want, we can chat a little, we would figure something nice out. I think i'm the first one creating this to the very end, so I have a little "know-how" now.
Sorry for the delay in replying. I've seen your make and feedback. Thanks for putting all that effort in. I've uploaded the correct slider carriage stl files now. Unfortunately I don't have time at the moment to implement any changes... I originally designed this just for my use but there was a lot of interest so I made it open source and tried to make it a bit more user friendly without having to redesign the entire thing! As such it's definitely not ideal for anyone who isn't me. 1. I decided to implement it the time lapse that way so I could get the full resolution of the camera (if I use the camera's inbuilt timelapse it limits the resolution). If I wanted a slow continuous movement I would use the keyframes and 'W' command to limit the speed. Points 2 and 3 might be linked. What version of the code have you uploaded and are you using the TMC2208 drivers? I think when I uploaded the 2040 version of the slider I switched the pan and slider motors around (for better wire management) so it you didn't do that as well then you would have issues with moving to a specific angle but keyframes would still move to the same positions so I think that might explain the issue. I hope this helps and sorry I can't do more at the moment.
@@isaac879 thank you for response, i don't have Time now either to test what you wrote, but i'll try to move on in a few days. I changed a few files so it fits my needs, i'll upload it on remixes on thingiverse soon.
You did a great job with this project. I especially like they way you reduced part count by having the carriage rollers double as the belt rollers. Brilliant! I also like that you actually have some decent examples of the slider in action. I think I may do my own slider using ESP32/GRBL at its core. Your video was helpful in confirming my hopes that micro-stepping TMC2208's would be quiet enough for video/an onboard mic. You clearly put a ton of work into this including a BOM, etc. So great. Thanks!
Hello isaac879 thank you for your video I finished editing but I can't find the library #include #include #include #include #include #include Thanks for your help
Amazing project. One more idea is to use gimbal motors with a hall sensor instead of steppers😉 there are really big an powerfull. You can also use them to pass though the wires.
Hello, could you help me, I don't know how to connect the Xbox controller to the Arduino. Could you tell me how you connected it or give me a link explaining how to connect it because I couldn't connect it and use it with the slaider. Please, could you help me?
Hi, sorry for the confusion. The xbox controller cpp files was only really meant for reference in case anyone wanted to try the same. I used Visual Studio to compile and run that code on my PC. Both the controller and camera slider were connected to the PC. The PC then took the controller inputs, converted them into the slider commands and sent them via the comport it was connected to.
You can use this version without the slider to have it just as a pan and tilt head. My first version was just pan and tilt before I added the slider (I have a video about it).
would be awesome if you implement an android motion control app to set the sequence movement points and velocity of the movement or even a manual axis control with a game controller conected to the phone, right stick controlling the pitch and yaw and left stick controlling the slider movement. Would be also interesting a servo extension for focus and a shoot stop shoot function for long exposure timelapses, there should be no movement while the shutter is open. Awesome job!
Hi, if you're interested I've made a version that works directly with a PS4 DualShock controller. You can set a sequence of moment points that you can run, but there is no extra control over changes in velocity between movements. Maybe you could adapt something from my code? You'll find my changes here github.com/cbradburne/Pan-Tilt-Mount
Did you consider turning the 4020 rail 90 degrees so it’s better able to support the weight of the assembly on longer applications? It should also allow the assembly’s weight to be better transferred to the rail because it will slide on top of the rail rather than pinching it from the sides.
I was actually going to mention this in the video but decided to cut it! I did consider it but I can't even notice any flex in the rail under the weight of the camera so it seemed unnecessary. I also wanted it to have a wide base to help reduce any flex and twisting of the slider carriage and mount.
First of all, great work Isaac! I would like to build it myself, so I am now searching for all the parts. Could you specify the specs of the motors chose? There are multiple specs available for the 23mm Nema 17. It would be great if you could respond to this message and/or update the parts list
Thanks! I didn't realise there was a significant difference between the motors. I used these exact motors: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07SSRV2YC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
instead of the bluetooth(JDY-30 or HC-05) to PC to Xbox controller, I use ESP-32 CAM(small pcb) with Wii Remote to control the 3-axis Slider, it meant u don't need a laptop or PC for Bluetooth connection, and it's working really well. And u can even control the slider by wifi to the smart phone ( iOS or android). Pretty happy now to use it without PC or Android phone. But in the end, the best way is using ESP 32 to replace the arduino nano. I also make a video with this slider : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mhwLHa5P5Qc.html Thank you Isaac879, great design !!
I just used the magnets I had on hand so the size isn't important although the CAD models are designed for the specified sizes. Before you glue the magnets in you should check they are strong enough trigger the hall effect sensors though.
Hi I want to make it same model would you tell me?? What is the exact size of aluminum frame and its wheels because in your CAD files the assembly of aluminum frame and wheel would not be reasonable kindly tell me
Hi, the CAD models should be accurate for the dimensions (dimensions are metric). I used standard 2040 V-slot extrusion and the standard 24mm V-slot pully wheels.
Hey Isaac! This is such a cool build! This will be my next 3d printing project! Thank you for all of the effort in putting this together and sharing it. I will be sure to share what we film with this! Looking forward to whatever your next video will be. Peace to you!
Appreciate if you can you advise where you purchased the following - 6.4mm diameter x 1.7mm Neodymium Magnets x 2 3.2mm diameter x 1.7mm Neodymium Magnets x 4
Hello Issac, I have a question. Your arduino is in the middle and it rotates when panning, right? How come that your wires to your slider motor are not damaged. Please, give me advice.
If you rotate in one direction too much it will damage them. There is enough slack in them that they can safely rotate about 360 degrees in either direction, which is plenty of movement for any shots I need to get.
I am looking to utilize the pan tilt mount for a Panasonic AG-UX90, it weighs 2.4 kg and is 169 mm (W) x 195 mm (H) x 340 mm (D). I know I will have to alter all the dimensions of the mount you provided, my question is by how much should I increase the tooth count on the gears.
Hi Isaac, I have difficulties making the JDY-31 work with arduino. I succeeded to print and assemble all 3d parts, bought the pcb from JLB and got all components welded to the pcb. I successfully uploaded the following codes to the arduino (pantiltmount ino/h/cpp as well as the Accelstepper and Ibrary libraries) but I don't know where to upload the main.cpp file? In which folder am I supposed to store it for upload purpose? Thank you
Hello, isaac879. I have assembled a 3-axis slider that you have developed. When I don't touch the joysticks, the stepper motors move a little. What could be the matter? Or what to adjust in the program? Thank you in advance.
Hello Isaac. I hope you are well. I want to ask you about the project My DIY 3-Axis Camera Slider How can I control project by phone via bluthouth and how to enter cod Xbox One Controller for Pan Tilt Mount
If anyone is struggling with the build, I've made a build video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-i4henn5Tj38.html I've updated it to show the full slider function, with footage.
isaac please consider my questions: first question is that is it ok for using a 20*40 aluminum extrusion with 1.20 meters length? does it bend under 2-3kg weights? do u suggest me to use 2 pieces of 20*40 or one 40*80? the biggest problem i have is that stronger aluminum pieces have 10mm slot and i cant find a carrying wheel for that size(10.23 min 12.23 max) secondly, what holding torque is required ? im running somethimg arounf2.2kg of weight and maybe i switch to 4.5 kg camera later, a 40ncm or 57 ncm is enough or what? and for the pan and tilt what holding torque is required? last question is that should i print parts on petg or abs? and what meterial have u used for the flexible pulley?
Ok, I now have the 3 axis working. However, I notice the acceleration is not working as it should. When I move between 2 keyframes, at the start the slider moves in the wrong direction, smoothly decelerates, changes direction and accelerates. At the end of the move, there is no deceleration. It's like the start and stop isn't sync'd to the accel and decel, like it's offset. If I set multiple keyframes (10+) just moving back and to (like in your video), the pan and tilt move together but are out of sync with the slider. Visually, the pan and tilt start their next move while the slider hasn't finished yet.
I have an Fuji X-T3 which is a small camera, but larger than your 250D. Got an easy idea to adapt it... Instead of puting the camera "inside" for the tilt, just do 180° and put the camera on the top. But then keep the bigger microstep motor because it will need more torque as the camera will not be in its gravity center. Do you think it would work ? Then you could also shortened the U, and also the "round" for pan axis. What do you think of that ? Did you understood ? I discovered your job right after you launched it on youtube. Great job man ! Inspiring a lot
In your experience, is it smooth enough (vibration is damped for very slow movements) for astrophotography applications (i.e. taking a long exposure shots of a celestial body that rotates about 0.0041667 deg/s with respect to the north star)?
Isaac 879 I am a beginner and not a programmer. I put together the 3-axis slider that you designed. When I don't touch the joysticks, the stepper motors move a little. What to add to the code so that there is a dead zone in the center of the sticks. Thank you in advance.
Thanks for sharing this project. I started building one of these, not for photography, but as a platform for my Nerf gun. I downloaded and printed all the parts, I just want to bring to your attention that holes on one tilt support do not match the platform below. I fixed it easily in Solidworks, but others might struggle with it.
I would so badly like to get this Cam-slider working. I'm printing it the second time right now. Could you make a video assembling the printable bearing? That's where I got stuck the last time... Couldn't manage to get it work :(
I know a few people had issues with assembling the bearing so I did make a short video about it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BEaZswFCOGc.html
Brilliant! Thank you. Have you updated this since 2020? I really need to build one of these! I'm building a huge heavy -duty camera stand and I'll be utilizing 2080 aluminum extrusion and I'm thinking I could do this as an add-on to the camera stand....which will be over 8ft. tall and 1500mm wide rail so the gimbal could have 1200mm of travel. I'm 71 and living in Thailand and I love being at that stage in my life where I have the freedom and time to learn complicated new technologies....like 3D modeling. I've been an artist all my life, and this gimbal you've created on a 3D printer, is a work of art. I only hope I'm smart enough to put one together. I do have a question. You brought up a good point regarding the friction wear on those gears, and you may be right that just printing a couple of sets of spare parts may be the best solution, but we get machining, including waterjet, done VERY affordably here. Do you think that, assuming the cost was convincing low, that it would be worth making those gears out of 6063 aluminum? Would it add more stability?
im doing a similar project, but with lanc compatible devices for zooming, for video streaming! One is controlled by a joystick with arduino, another is using raspberry pi+opencv for automated tracking was cool to see your idea in action,
I just found the pan and tilt hat for an Rasp Pi in the clearance bin at my local Microcenter and saw your comment. I also have the HQ camera so I wanted to do an object tracking cam for my live stream music events. It may be more clear when I start the object tracking code, but I was wondering if you found a way around the colored rectangle that appears on most of the object tracking videos on youtube. I have a servo controlled zoom lens too. Perhaps you have a bit of direction you would be willing to share to point me in the right direction? your project sound like just what I was starting to envision. Thank you in advance for your time!
@@antithesis4 hey jordan, the rectangle is no issue, the rectangle just gives you an indication on what is being tracked. You can make another dispay frame which has nothing on it. Just think of the rectangle as the frame being annotated on
I did indeed. There is a Fritzing diagram near the bottom of the page: diyodemag.com/features/twist_and_shoot_arduino_nano_controlled_camera_pan_tilt_servos
I am wondering, why did you not have the stepper motors direct drive the pan and tilt motions ? As you said they are overbuilt for the task so torque shouldn't be an issue, and 3D printed gears aren't the best when it comes to durability or backlash as you also mentioned. Why not cut out the middle man and have smoother motion overall, especially as you can now achieve higher speeds using your improved code ? Great project nontheless though, curious to see more.
