Unfortunately , the most important part of the rebuild has been left out and I confidently expect this engine to deposit its rings in the sump before long . What you have ommitted is to check the backlash of the timing gears with a 3 thou guage . The centre cog should be slackened off and the cog pushed towards the crank until the proper clearance has been obtained . otherwise the engine will sound rough and loud and the timing marks on the injector pump may not line up in line .
Hi Jay thanks for sharing...I am about to rebuild my 4-107! But I want to ask you if I should, because although it's 40 years old, it sounds good, the problem is that it's been getting hot at médium RPM 90° and pressure dropt to 15...so Im not sure if those are enough signs for an Overhaul? Thank you for your guidance 🤗
YOU have a LOT to impart from an obviously deep skill base; however, you need a camera operator to free you to be able to narrate more coherently and to focus your remarks..... Please, take this the best way.....
The 1983 Perkins workshop manual says "Note: locking tabs are not fitted to these set screws". I seem to recall reading somewhere that on older engines they were fitted with tab washers, which may be discarded or reused.
Hey jay great video I have recently started working on a Perkins 4108 and would like to know what the average running temperature is for the engine at idle and at 2000rpm I live in Brisbane, Australia where the temperature usually sits around 30 degrees Celsius. Cheers
It all depends on the set temperature of the thermostat. Most engines run anywhere from 160-200 degrees Fahrenheit and should change little with RPM. If it starts to rise with RPM increase and fall with RPM decrease it usually means there is a restriction in the water passages, heat exchanger, or coolers.
nice video, just mist to show the proses of adjusting the piston hights, most important for diesel motor, new piston come with extra lenth to cut tops down to specs. this due to the ignition sistem , non spark, and to achive the correct compreshon, especialy to avoid hard starting the motor when could... by the way i hav this same motor on my willys jeep spanish military cj3b. plss. excuse my speling.
The basic Stuff??? I was only looking at this to know where the Oil pump goes! Remember that there is us out there who no nothing about a Diesel engine!
Have a friend with a Perkins 4.108M that gets very quick pressure buildup in the coolant system. Less than a minute and the water will gush out of the expansion tank as soon as you open the cap. Im 100 % that this is combustion pressure escaping but what part of the engine that is cracked im unsure of. Engine have earlier experienced severe overheating and head gasket have been tried replaced twice without any luck. What's the primary suspect here? We got tip on a cracked engine block but as this engine has dry cylinder liners i find that a bit unlikely. Any thoughts on this?
Es posible culata torcida, incluso el bloque motor, suerte yo tuve un motor 4.108, puesto en un coche de la marca Seat 1430, con cinco velocidades y resulto muy bien, claro esto hace cuarenta y tres años. Soy español.En esos años en España se colocaban esos motores en ese tipo de vehículos.
Update: Cylinder head had to be replaced. Crack between exhaust ports 2 and 3. Precursor of this damage probably leaking coolant port in the exhaust manifold what caused overheating.
@@Formula400Pontiac interesting. Thanks for the update. I am rebuilding a westerbeke 4 107 and it is practically the same engine.. Hopefully I have no problems like that.
When you're using plasti-guage aren't you supposed to leave the bearings dry. You might get an erroneous reading as the oil takes up some clearance on the bottom.?
Hi i have a Massey ferguson 165 tractor with the Perkins diesel engine it dosent use a scrap of oil but fumes out of breather , would it need a set of rings, Thanks farmer
If there is excessive pressure with the fumes, it usually means worn rings and pressure is building up in the crankcase and escaping out the breather. You would need to re-ring or if the wear bore is over.006 then you will need to re-sleeve.
QQ - motor installed. Leakage between block and exhaust manifold. The gasket appears fine. Tech did not tighten nuts. What tool would be used to tighten nuts without removing 'stuff.' Very tight area. Last thought - crowfoot? TIA
Try a using double-ended ring spanner rather than a combo, you need to have just the right amount of offset on the spanner to get in there. It's a cow.
i think a machine shop would use bore gauges and micrometers for the various i.d. and matching o.d. measurements. i'm just curious why engine rebuilders use plasti-gage for the same thing.
Im still im development stages but the kit i build looks to work well but is going to cost alot more than the teflon upgrade but iam hoping it will last for 20 years
driveheronman yep i no longer do it but its not hard you have to make a rear carrier and the right size seal and it runs on the end of the crank suraface
Yes, after checking cylinders for trueness, I honed them and checked ring end gap which was well in specs. Only time you need to re-sleeve is when ring end gap is excessive or deep scaring in cylinder.
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