Perpetuating the oldest car myth on the internet. 

Based on my experience with my 08 C6Z those pads are the trouble. They overheat very fast when used at the track. Maybe first timers at the track would be ok with these pads but with an experienced driver who can push the car they cannot take the heat. I ran the HPS once and now run Hawk DTC 70 front, DTC 60 rear with very good results at the track I run my 08 C6Z at (Portland International Raceway (PIR)). Have fun with your process.

Another great video bud. Goldie is coming along nicely in stock form. Can't wait to see what you have planned next for her.

I’m really enjoying this series, Josh. 😊

Great videos Josh. Will really enjoy watching the mod plan unfold. Been down a similar path with C6Z06 and still puts a smile on my face each time I drive it. They are a funny car, seem to start making more and more sense on track at 100mph plus, yet still quite a streetable package, even when modded. I have always found solid rotors tricky to live with on the track so one of the first mods on mine was Girodisc floating rotors and Carbotech pads. Have worked super well with lots of road miles and the occasional track session.

I ve run down GT3s with my bone stock 08 c6 Z06 with the stock brakes, never really have been an issue . But everybody brakes different on the track . I also run 30 psi in tires. Great Video !

i need one of those Motive brake bleeders. Looks like it makes the job super easy

Great video! I've been enjoying the series. Next time you swap brake fluid or pads/rotors could you do a more detailed video showing the process? I just picked up a C6 myself and I'd like to learn how to do more stuff myself. Unfortunately, I feel every video I've seen thus far hasn't been detailed enough on the process. Especially around changing the fluid.

In my experience, based on your video, your issue is a combination of two things: 1) quality of the parts you used and 2) your style of driving 1) the pads you used, per the manufacture, are for low to mid temperature ranges with an optimal max temp of 600 degrees. I’m sure your brakes were around, or in excess of, 800-1,000 degrees at the point during your run when you started getting the shakes. To save money and get another base-line run before you completely upgrade the brakes, I’d buy a decent set of full ceramic track focused pads and have your rotors “turned”. Most tire shops can turn your rotors for around $50. Also, make sure to clean off the mating surfaces, with a wire wheel or similar, where the back of the rotor mates with your hub. Surface rust can cause your rotors to not seat properly. 2) try braking later and more aggressively. This will do to things. First, it will decrease the total time on the brakes (heating them up) and it will lower your lap time ;) Also, try keeping your RPMs higher in some of the corners under braking. I noticed you were down in the 2,000-2,500 rpm range during several deceleration areas. Keeping your RPMs up will help keep your brakes alive and also keep you in the power once you get back on throttle Love the videos and can’t wait to see that stack of parts on the car!!

Had this same issue on dtc60’s. Once I started braking later/harder it went away. Was concerning at first but I was just driving to slow lol.

Umm, I’ve turned a few rotors in my life and can attest to rotor’s being significantly warped relative to the hub mating surface. The cutters will literally skip on the disc. When steel or iron reaches a certain temperature it will expand. When it cools, it will contract but not necessarily back to the same place due to internal stresses, different thickness or what have you. Cryogenically treating rotors can mitigate a lot of this characteristic and is done to some race rotors and precision barrels. Anyway, I’ve boiled my fluid on track. Good times.😅

Pretty cool to see the older C6Z seems to be pretty comparable time wise to the newer C7 GS auto you just tested. Would love to hear your thoughts on how they compare. I have a C6 Z16 Grand Sport manual. The suspension was super soft. I did the Johnny O'Connell stage 1 kit. It consists of front & rear adjustable sway bar. Beefy end links. & Tuned C6Z stiffer shock dampners. Handling was night & day difference. I do some of those mountain and canyon rallys & I can keep up with the newer super cars now....That is when I have the nerve to do so. Lol

I tracked a 2008 Z51 for years and there's no substitution for good brake hardware. I suspect you will need real track hardware like Hawk 60 pads and DBA ClubSpec 5000 T3 rotors to fix this issue. Can't wait to see this progress, I'm looking to get back in at some point and the C6Z is the platform I would choose, light and fast.

I have a c6z and was having the steering wheel shake when braking hard. Got new rotors and that fixed the issue. In hindsight I wish I had tried to smooth them out first, but just didn't know that was something that could potentially fix the issue. Interesting to know for next time even if it may not work haha

I most definitely had warped rotors. Shop resurfaced them instead of replacing them so they were very old and very worn out. car vibrated while braking

Great video! You sure can drive bud. I have no doubt Goldie will go below 1:30 soon. I bet you could strip a couple seconds off in current form if you kept pushing. 🏁

I've been starting to wonder if you've got a rotor with a defect. Something about the casting or metal composition causing it to change shape with temperature. If it was just a bedding issue, I would not expect the vibration to be noticeable under very light braking when hot. It looks like it vibrates when hot, even if you barely (or maybe don't) touch the brakes. Very odd.

No worry on the Valve guide issue? I know some take the GM stance of nothing is wrong or you modified it and broke it. But if I had a Z06 with that very expensive motor I’d have it checked at minimum or fixed for peace of mind. There is a channel where guy bought a track 08 with a blown motor for 15k

What times do GT3s do in the track you ran in?

How are the upgrades coming?

I don’t care if you buy brand spanking new rotors from a dealer or even a performance company. If they’re turnable , then GET THEM TURNED . We’ve seen new rotors out of round before !

Your brake calipers could be sticking as well

get ride of those hawk pads

FIX it yes, then just R7 tires DONE

Switch to slotted/ drilled rotors, you can thank me later.