Whenever people describe really hard trad lines, it's often hard to tell whether they're a trad climber who loves it, or a sport climber who hates it. Like, if you didn't end that with "Love it" I'd have absolutely no clue.
European climbers be looking at this like? Why the fuck would you climb that pebble? Yeah have you ever climbed all over your own home putting screw ons into the walls? You do what you can with what you got. Wish we had big ass lime stone cliffs like the Spanish and French though...
The belay setup at 4:47 looks dangerous. A tube-style belay device can’t hold a fall if the rope runs downwards. That’s why you run the rope through a “dummy” quickdraw or carabiner above the anchor point. Only in this case it’s so close to the anchor point that the belayer+belay device would be pulled upwards to the dummy quickdraw which would negate its purpose. They should have used a munter hitch (which creates sufficient friction in all directions) or put the dummy quickdraw higher.
a tube-style belay device can hold a fall with the rope going downwards if you know how to operate a tube style device in such a setup without a redirect.
