Big thanks for solving my problem. Strange noise from CD player was the problem with my cd player. With your advice I was sorted out the problem. Thanks again, Bart
I have another PDM703 video going up tonight with another common problem, the lens falls out of the laser pickup. This one is relatively easy to repair, and it involves white glue.
Oh how many a time in the 90s have i had that happen lol had machines come in for service sounding like a cat getting skinned alive. oh that sound makes my scale crawl every time i hear it lol ! Great job !
I couldn't get any different looking pattern on my Hitachi scope than you got on that digital one ( scratching my head bc, my Hitachi scope isn't digital) BUT - My Hitachi is 40 MHZ and I saw that you analog scope is 400 mhz. All in all this was a great piece of info I learned. Thanks ! My other scope, that I pulled out of storage was worse - only 10MHZ !!
This is great. I have an old pioneer I need to fix up and I've never done electronic adjustment on a cd player except messing around with one I used to have when I was a teenager; one of the ones that has the test mode that's fun to mess with (you can get into some sort of non-toc mode and make loud crunches in the sound and so fourth). I'm attempting to fix my tektronix 466 at the moment, tube and flyback are good, but there are bad caps and I don't want to run it with shorting caps. All my analog scopes have bad caps now so I got no choice but to work on them :-/
I just picked up a Pioneer PD-M702 at goodwill and it wouldn't play CD's. When I tried to play any CD I would hear a click soon after the CD was mounted but the CD wouldn't spin. I checked to see of the lense had popped off and found it hadn't. I then took an ohm meter and tested the pot you adjusted here. The reading I had was 412 while on a 2000 ohm setting. I turned this pot counter clockwise to about 220 and the CD spun up and now the unit works.
pro tip ... ground your scope to the actual board as close to the laser as possible .. that is most likely why you got drastic change when your body entered the field .good vid btw !!!
Great Video!...I had an old Onkyo 6 cd carousel...symptom sound would intermittently drop out..(rather than skipping)...I could hear a little squealing....do not have an analog scope (yet but going to get one now!) so adjusted track gain pot by first measuring its resistance and noting it down..then adjust so slightly..luckily just a few ohms difference one way did the trick..now plays with no squealing and no playback sound drop out.
Sometimes mechanical vibration from the disc and disc motor gets into the feedback loop. You can see it as a sine wave in the error signals. Lubricating the spindle motor might help. If it does it mainly at the beginning of the disc I would lean towards this. Sony used to have us put some silicon sealer between the bottom of the spindle motor and the circuit board.
I don't think i've heard that one before, i've seen plenty of cheap units that won't read the Toc, and nothing seems to help it. Some are just a mucky lense or old grease stopping the sled moving correctly. You have the experence of a pro tech, so the r.f output may have looked horrible to you on some units that i never got working.
Hey thanks I had just bought a M701 as I found your vid and it was a simple and fast fix thanks to you. I have also found a M901 which I heard was a step up from the M701? Anyway I couldn’t find the adjustment screws on the unit so I sent it to the shop. Although I had only seen the insides 1 x I think the Technician replaced the laser unit with and cheaper one, because the 701 plays cds that the 901 doesn’t. It could be a tracking problem but to compound the issue the Tech didn’t screw the Unit down tight so that the Laser is loose. You know how when the bushing are put on upside down? Anyway it’s not tight and that makes me think it’s another unit. He only had to adjust the tracking not take the laser apart. He also mention that the laser was detached although I had inspected it before and saw that the glass was attached. My question is what do you think and do you happen to have a manual of the M901? I was able to find pic but I don’t see the number for the condenser to verify it. Also I remember there being some sort of cover or braces like on the M701 on the 901? Hope you can help me out AGAIN!! Thanks
They were made in the early 90s. I have found several at Goodwill for $5 or $10 USD. 2 worked right out of the chute. One had a lens that fell out and had to be glued back in. The 2nd had a burnt zener diode. The one I personally bought new in 1993 required a new ribbon cable between lens driver to circuit board. It finally fatigued from flexing and a couple traces broke. Otherwise these things seem to run well. Never ran into one with cartridge feed troubles . Not bad for 25 year old machines.
Hi, I have a Pioneer CD player exactly the same as this. They are pretty cool with the 6 CD holder that ejects out & you load & insert back in. It actually reminds me of the old 8 track cartridges. I also have the Amplifier & twin cassette deck & speakers. The cassette decks need new belts on mine. The pioneer unit does produce a nice crisp sound too.
Hey there, i just have one question regarding these pickups. I have a pioneer hifi that only reads cd but not dvd. Replaced the optical, still doing the same thing. Apparently this model has no pots either to make adjustments. NO, i dont have a scope either to see the eye pattern. Its a pioneer XV-EV1000 and the pickup is 05SD. What do you think could be the problem here?
I always thought it was a great idea to have the lens above the CD. Just vanity I think that the label was upwards on almost all other players. They still did it on minidisc I think when you can never even see the disk.
It is a double edge sword. With the lens up, you don't have to worry about dust on the lens, but the disk is a much bigger target to collect dust when it is loaded but not spinning. Then when it turns on the dist will fly everywhere. With the lens on the bottom, yes dist can land on it but there is usually something over it (disk clamp or a disk itself) to keep the dist at bay. The biggest problem is smoke. If a CD player is stored in a room that people light up in, then the smoke is going to get into the optics and will eventually destroy it. CD players need to be in a smoke free environment. Not I have just upset the smokers and tokers.
12voltvids - I noticed with them as well that you have to make sure you don’t cover the CD with finger prints while loading them into the case. The first time I used mine, silly me thought the CD sat onto the slide out tray label up & wondered why the CD wasn’t playing as the lens are up the top & not on the bottom. So yeah the CD is place upside down. LOL 😂
Dear 12voltvids, thank you for the advice on the analog scope (used). Thank you for all your content. God[Bible] Bless you. (taking a chance at some help, kindly). There is a tracking (drive, motor with Hall effect sensors) gain adjust pot on my Magnavox CD player, but it's hard to adjust while disc plays because the CD drive assembly electronics board block the pot. So, I'd have to make small adjustment, reinstall, check, remove, re-adjust, reinstall, check, etc. Any suggestions most welcomed. Your videos are excellent. Thank you so much for making & posting them.
Hi, that scope appears to not to be triggering correctly on analog signals, is by any chance the trigger mode set to pulse trigger, or other strange thing, instead of edge trigger? (on trigger menu button). Nice vid.
I Have a Pioneer DV-F727 dvd/cd disk changer. Cd sound great, but some dvd play with a scramble picture. But not on all DVD's. Any Ideas what can be done? Your input would be appreciated.
Do you do mail-in repairs? I have a Honda accessory add-on CD player from the early 90s that I'd like to have repaired. It still powers up, and attempts to read a disc but never does. I'm guessing its a similar issue, but I dont have the tools to mess with it, and dont want to just dive in and start adjusting pots with no clue what I'm doing.
Hey! Pioneer PL-L1000 (tangential LP turntable) Tell me where to look for the reason? The capacitors were replaced and the soldering was done. The tonarm does not reach the beginning of the starting track. 1.The tonearm falls next to it does not reach the metal disc. 2.After the end of the record, the tonearm remains on the finish track and does not automatically lift and return. It can be raised by pressing the “raise and lower” button or press the Start / Stop button. The tonearm then returns to the rest position. Can be lowered manually. Playback and tracking will record normally. There was one mistake, when replacing capacitors, overlooked, and made a mistake. Incorrectly put the polarity on the position of the capacitor C29. Configured did not work. Found it out. Then I changed it to the correct position. 3. Can this error disable any components in the circuit. If yes. Where to look? I'm really looking forward to an answer. (I tried to figure it out in the manual, because of the double meaning, not everything is clear. Comments from experienced users are needed. I am addressing you and your friends with help. In hope for you. Happy New Year and Health!
Hi, I got a Pioneer PD-TM1 recently in great condition. However, CD Player is not seeing the CD’s. It checks every CD but can not see any. Lens was loose and I glued it back and still the same problem. Can anyone help me with this? Every suggestion is Much appreciated
Hi I have the same CD player but mine would not read if there is a cd it just keeps changing to next cd reading there is no disc any ideas what could be wrong?
The higher the bandwidth the better as a rule. I used to do it with an old 40MHz, but this one displays the eye pattern much better. The one I have now says 400MHz, however the 4 was replaced with a 3, and since there was both a 300 and 400 version of this scope, I get the feeling that this one is a rebuild and the 400MHz front end was blown, and someone replaced with a 300. Still higher than I will ever need.
You should get more familiar with your budget digital scope. I have no problems viewing/measuring eye patterns even on my cheapest Rigol. My benches can anchor boats, so still use Sc-61 Sencore, 7000 series and 400 series Tek. Hehe 465 and 435's.
I have tried every option on this and it still looks like crap. Video waveforms look like crap. Everything looks like crap on it. I reach for it when I need to look at specific things,but I will reach for the good old CRT scope first every time.
I agree it's all about using the right tool for the right job. I love both my analog and digital scopes for different reasons and they each are useful to me in their own ways.
Hello, I write from Venezuela... I need buy a new Optical lector for my PD-M452, can you tell me where I can find? to send to my house in Orlando FL? thanks
I had this same problem on a pd-m702 that I picked up today. I adjusted the pot like shown here and mine started to spin the CD's. Also, make sure the lense on the laser disc didn't fall off. Apparently they are just glued on. If you need to glue it on then don't use super glue BTW, use elmers.
I notice you're not answering questions on here but I'll ask anyway...lol. When I lift the front of my unit up about 70 degrees, it plays just fine. When it's set flat, it just skips around the same spots on a song. Balance or gain adjustment? Don't ask how I figured that part out...just dumb luck that I noticed that.
@@Broncort1 Most likely the spindle motor. When the bearing wears out it gets loose and causes disk wobble. Of course the laser could be sticking too but I am assuming you already checked that.
12voltvids the CD does seem to have a slight wobble to it. I need to find a guy like you near me to look over that, my Pioneer PLV70 turntable, Pioneer CTV70 duel cassette deck and the CD player is a PDM550. I watched you Pioneer cassette deck video with the spring used as a fuse. Since I too am an electrician, I’m too dumb to figure this all out...haha.
My Rigol DS1054Z Digital Oscilloscope 50 MHz DSO 4 Channels, is digital, and act (most of the time)like the analog one due to "ultra vision feature". This unit-t is really too bad for analog signals.
@@12voltvids First of all, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I whatch all your videos. See how is the wave form on my rigol. Is not perfect like your analog one, but do the job very well and its under USD400 . ftteng.com.br/rigol_cd_player.jpg . I´ve seen composite videos signals too with it. Works beautifull for me. ftteng.com.br/rigolvideo1.jpg and ftteng.com.br/rigolvideo2.jpg I think your case, is bacause you´ve started working on analogs ones, and get used to it phosphor. The unit-T you bought is very limited in showing complex waveforms.Have you heard about eevblog Dave Jones channel? Dave make a lot of videos on how digital models that act like analog ones. With time, you´ll find a digital one that fit your needs.
Concerning the digital scope, you've got ripped off. They are probably much better rigol or siglent now days for half the price. But it seems that the scope is not necessarily the only problem here. Maybe you don't set it properly for the task. The biggest difference is that the trigger is in the middle and that it shows only one slice of time with the digital one. The analog scope superimpose many waves and your retina's persistence adds them together. Clearly the timescale set on the digital scope is not good. You must use a smaller time per division setting. Also you should activate digital persistence on the digital scope so you get the same kind of behavior as the analog scope. Even if the analog has 400 MHz BW and the digital only 100MHz it seems that the signal you are looking at is around 1 MHz so both should be able to display it properly.
Yes I know how it operates and the trigger is only one of the problems. This digital scope is 100 mhz, and for looking at single shot waveforms it is just fine, however it doesn't do well when looking at complex analog waveforms like analog video, and in this example the RF "eye" pattern from a DVD player. Setting the persistance really doesn't make much of a difference when looking at the RF envelope or laser RF on a CD player. I am sure there are digital scopes that can handle this task, but this one that I was suckered into buying at Lee's electronics in Vancouver is clearly not one of them. The day I got it, and tried it out I realized it was unacceptable, and even returned with it the same day when I knew that it was unsuitable for what I use a scope for, but the store has a no refund policy. I even tried to pull the dispute with the credit card company to get a refund, but they said I had to deal with the retailer, and if their policy was no refund then too bad so sad. The manual talks about a video trigger setting for looking at video, but it is clearly a different model, as this one does not have the menu setting. There are a few different models that have different features, and I ended up with the cheap POS model. Even the probes with this one suck. I did get the Tektronix for a song though, and that is a a real piece of test gear.
12voltvids the UTD2102CEX seems to only have 25kpts of storage so you must be careful with the time-base otherwise it will not use its full sample rate and that can cause aliasing. So always use manual trigger level and the smallest time-base then increase it slowly until you see what you want.
AGREE 12voltvids - An analog CRT scope is the best tool here. I doubt if even the medium/high end digital scope would make me happy. I guess that I'm (too) old school. (Tektronix 465/05 was my OLD favorite). I hate my BOTTOM END digital scope for most applications, but it does have some nice menu option features that are very useful in some situations. But I just can't trust the digital scope to show what's going on (video H/V sync, burst, and those routine audio noise floor, distortion and that CD servo/eye adjustment). I think digital scopes also make it much harder to first learn electronics since one can't be sure it is showing what's really going on (even when you already know exactly what's there and you've done your best to select the proper trigger mode/sensitivity). Of course the same learning booby trap applies if an analog scope trigger level/mode is set wrong, but with analog, it seems easier to discover and overcome.
