I just wanted to mention I barely know enough in electronics to understand what you're doing and follow you along, but I've been following you for some time and I truly admire your knowledge, craftsmanship, and communicator talent (you'd make an awesome teacher). Thanks for taking the time to publish these videos. As you always say, joy, happiness and good health to you!
I use ceramic insulators Aluminum Nitride (AlN). I have measured that thinner mica or kapton type with thermal compound ( Bergquist) other material has capacitive coupling between collector and emitter , special with high rail voltage. In one of my amplifier design, I had high frequency oscillation burst around 80Mhz . Ceramic insulators has much less capacitive coupling and high insulation voltage. Anyway I do this based on measurement and many many verification test results on different thermal compound. Regards from Sweden
My wife asks how I can possibly watch this stuff (paint peeling as Tony says) and enjoy myself. I told her Tony is the Bob Ross of electronics and this is my ASMR. She understands it said that way :)
Hi Tony, im from Europe, i been following your videos for sometime , and i must say i liked. I learn somethings with you knowledge. I make my self electronic designs. My professional area is more mechatronics , in my spear time my hobbies are more in to electronic (audio and RF), music, woodwork, some metalwork and photography . Keep doing your videos, despite sometimes , has you said and well, the information of some point isn´t acurate , when you notice that you try to keep tracking the right information to amend. We all still learning until our body´s fail. Anyone who thinks otherwise is fooled . Meanwhile ,thank you for your videos and for your chat . I was nice to find you in yourtube. Take care.
you're funny. like everything else after you do a few hundred to a thousand we get better almost perfect. I had a friend who was a gazer he could cut glass free hand strait holding the glass in the window opening without hesitation. I could not do that with paper in ten tries. thanks for showing all the details
i’m following this build like a hawk! I love all your videos. I own a 1280 in very good condition. i’ve done a full recap and replaced the regulated board with the delta electronics upgrade. all the outputs are original. sadly one of my heatsinks has a bent/broken corner so id love to find a doner unit and replace it and do this upgrade then.
One method that I use for peeling stuff off, from things a lot more difficult than this ( ;) ) is to try multiple times with a high-quality tape, not the cheap one. Painter's tape also works. Sometimes I use a scalpel or hobby knife, you can either try to go under it or punch & drag it. Peeling while bending might help in your case, it didn't work in mine. Thanks for your videos, today I learned that mK means meter-Kelvin not miliKelvin. Unambiguous formula would be W/(mK) unless you consider product more powerful than division :)
VERY nice work. Not thinking that I personally feel like doing one of these. But if the need arose I would. Love this series and seeing it done unedited is awesome. I'm not the only one making occasional goofs :- ) Much like woodworking though, fixing your goofs well enough that it's unseen is key.
I remember the hoohah over chads. It was during the 2000 presidential election. Florida was the last state to return, and both Bush and Gore needed it to win the election. As you know, the Florida Supreme Court turned down ruled on whether there could be yet another recount, and finally Al Gore conceded. Interesting video about insulating washers though.
Tony, I have found it if you bend the material with the plastic stuff on the back that’s hard to remove, If you’ve been in the material towards the plastics side, and then release it the plastics days and the other material, you can heal up a little bit and then enables you to get a hold of the plastic easier now the stuff you’re using may tear I don’t know never used it before but that’s the way I do it on most stuff. Thanks for all your good videos.
Your best solution is to cut the heat sink into four sections and mount them on rubber grommets that is the best solution and you don't need any barrier plus it dampens the noise of the transistor. Tony if you find a bit of thin perspect 4- 5 mm thick just tape it to the top of the straight edge ruler just leave the rest loose just make sure the edge of the perspective is flat against the blade you'll have to remove the other ruler on the bed it sticks up doesn't it. Just slide your material underneath the perspex and the clamping force from your hand will give you the perfect edge. The word Chad is not really modern it goes back hundreds of years old English it's meaning is somebody that is a drifter doesn't care about themselves offers favours to others You know what I mean. You could say Magas are modern chads they have that mindset.
Is that a hanging chad or a dangling chad? If only that's all we had to worry about. I made a.leather punch out of.some scrap wood and some nails that I cut the points off. 2 different thicknesses for 2 different size holes. There's the base, a pair of risers, and a top cross piece that the nails ride in. Theres holes.drilled all the way through the base for the nails to punch into. I take the belt that needs new holes and place it through the opening, line up the correct nail, and give it a whack with a hammer. Super clean, no chads. Almost like a Greenlee, but jankier.
Thank you for another great episode! Question: have you ever dealt with AlN (aluminium nitride) as a thermal transfer material? It's obviously very durable, highly resistive and the thermal conductivity is through the roof.
I spent some time not too long ago looking into the different thermal pads and insulators available and came away thoroughly annoyed that the companies that make these things get bought out and the documentation gets deleted (Henkel). I had to use the Internet Archive Wayback Machine to dig up some of it. Otherwise you're left looking at general datasheets for the material itself with no breakdown of part number definition or cutout dimensions--you could be ordering a TO-3 pad or a TO-220 or a smiley face or something else. Chomerics (owned by Parker of all people) has a complete breakdown so you can then search for a specific pad shape and material selection that most likely won't be in stock anywhere. 🙄 I've been messing around with the 1671 and T500 series pads and they seem to work well. I also remember the 2000 presidential election sh!tshow. It seems like every US presidential election cycle starting with that one has seen the sanity of political discourse on the internet take a severe hit without ever recovering... 🤪
13:11 i think you've got screws in the wrong holes on the plate behind the driver board on the left hand amp module. i don't remember the 2 i did having the driver board offset on the heatsink like yours.
Where did you find this material is 12 W (mK) because the data sheets states 0.9 W/(mK) which equates into 0.29 KW for a MT200 sized transistor. 12 W (mK) would be Extremely good and sheet of the size you've got there will cost at least about $250. With 12 W (mK) the thermal resistance for a MT200 sized transistor would be 0.018 kW.
The high TC thermal pad material is found mostly at computer building supply companies. These are usually used for CPU and GPU heatsinks. CPU/GPU's produce way more heat than a transistor. As I said in the video, the tradeoff is that the material is very soft and can tear easily. The material I have is chinesium, NOT bergquist, so the advertised TC may not be accurate. All I can say is that it works very well on CPU heatsinks. That said, paste-based compounds such as arctic silver are better, but they do not provide electrical isolation and in fact, are conductive.
I've seen some manufacturers using captain tape I mean that's fine I don't think there is an issue using kapton tape I don't know what it's thermal properties are but they are good better than mica probably just as good. Why don't you use kapton tape Tony.
5:52 It's Watts per meter (not m^2) _per_ Kelvin W/m/K or Wm^-1K^-1 not W/mK, since mathematically that's Watts per meter x Kelvin. Also, Kelvin is absolute so no degrees. And, finally, its not m^2 because W/m^2/K is the heat transfer coefficient (HTC) or how well the heat transfers from a fluid (water, say, but could just as easily be air, since that can also be considered a fluid) to another (solid) surface (the wetted surface of a radiator, say).
