Bought 1 today: wasn't able to remove the tire, because I live in a 2 story apt building,(no concrete floor to mount 2, plus it's someone elses property) but was able to break the bead, in order to change a valve stem. Harbor freight has some pretty decent stuff. The balancer is pretty decent as well. I purchased 1 a couple of years ago...👍👍👍
I've seen where people would buy these plastic pallets and bolt it right to it. That way in a case like yours you can take it inside if you chose to or put it in a storage room. Thank you for sharing.
Good video. I have one of these things, because there is an attachment for this harbor freight tire changer that is used for mounting and dismounting street motorcycle wheels/tires. So I had to buy this machine and the attachment for changing motorcycle wheels. Which isn’t that great..I just use the motorcycle wheel holding attachment and I spoon the tires on with small highly polished motorcycle tire irons.They’re cheap. But they will work if you have it mounted solid as a rock to the floor. The biggest problem I had mounting tires was mounting this harbor freight tire changer to the floor. I pulled the lead anchors out of the floor two times wrestling with a tire mount/dismount job.. I worked in gas stations in the 60s when I was in high school. And all they had were manual tire machines. And four-wheel-drive vehicles were not very common, and in Pennsylvania, everyone did seasonal tire changeover’s. From summer tires, two studded snow tires, and back again in April to summer tires. So I know how to do it.. this machine does not make it easy, and unless it is mounted to the floor as solid as a fire hydrant is to the curb, it ain’t going to work. The guy in this video minded this machine correctly, and the brackets at the base still flexed in this video Find an old timer service garage that’s been in business for decades and buy their tire mounting bar from their old manual machine from them. I bought one for $10. Those old manual tire mounting bars have a shoe on one end for mounting tires, and the opposite end of the bar is for dis mounting tires.. mounting bar you get with the unit from Harbor freight is Stone Age crude. And it scratches the hell out of the wheel all the way around where it contacts the wheel..If you can, try mounting and dismounting the tire on the backside of the wheel where the scratch damage won’t show, but that’s not always possible.. if you have expensive wheels or very nice wheels, don’t buy this tire machine for changing tires on those wheels. You will damage them. Go to a garage that has a modern machine that does not even touch the wheel at all when mounting and dismounting tires. I have an old coats manual tire changer I’ve had since the late 70s which I have changed dozens and dozens of tires back before everyone had 4 Wheel Dr. vehicles, and I had to mount and dismount snow tires to summer tires every year on everyone in my family’s cars and trucks. I don’t use it so much anymore because everyone in the family has 4x4 , vehicles in there are no Seasonal tire changeovers anymore. Keep your eye open for an old certified bubble balancer that they used before the spin balancers took over..A lot of old garages have one sitting in the back of the shop unused. I have one .. The modern spin balance they sell you, they tell you that it will balance your tire to the micron. The problem with that is, do they absolutely clean your wheel before they balance your tires to the micron? No.... do they remove the label/sticker from the new tires you are buying before they spin balance them? Usually no...Do they wash the tire to make sure that it has all of the dust and dirt removed before they mounted to the wheel if they claim they’re going to balance it to the micron. No.Those 3 things alone, there goes your balance to the micron out the window.tires have whiskers on them from the mold that the tire was made in. When you drive down the street those whiskers get shaved off by friction, there goes your micron balance job again...If you really want to balance the tires , use a bubble balancer, after the tires have been driven for about 50 miles.Bubble balancer’s are what they use to balance airplane propellers and helicopter rotors to this day... A couple other things. Be very very careful on wheels that have air pressure monitors in them. You can easily break one of those tire pressure monitors when poking the pry bar into the relief gap inside the wheel when mounting/ dismounting tires.. The wheels in this video do not have those pressure monitors..So the job done on this video was not as complicated as it can be it with a tire that has a tire pressure monitor.also, now would be a good time pop in new tire valve stem‘s while you have the tire off.. also, take the time to clean the inside of the rim where the tire contacts the rim to /remove built up residue rubber that can cause a leak. I use a very stiff plastic scraper.. It was a good thing in this video that they used actual tire mounting lube. For years and still to this day many people use dishwashing liquid as a lube to mount and dismount tires. The horrible mistake everyone makes that uses dishwashing liquid is, most dishwashing liquid‘s have LYE as an ingredient. LYE destroys aluminum wheels. Many times. When LYE is used as a lube to mount tires, that gets trapped between the tire and the wheel and does not wash off. That corrodes the wheel at the seal, and causes slow leaks because the wheel is corroding. You can use dishwashing liquid in an emergency if you use Dawn dishwashing liquid. That does not have LYE in it. LYE is the ingredient that makes dishwashing liquid feel slimy While you are at Harbor freight buying this tire mounting stand. Pick yourself up one of their 24 inch tire mounting spoons/bar. Sometimes the mounting bar that comes with this stand new just won’t get that tire on that rim Right when you almost have the tire on the rim. One of those tire mounting bars that you pry the tire up over the lip of the rim with will come in handy.. Also, don’t waste your money buying nitrogen to put in your tires, it’s a scam, always always always put the valve cap on the valve stem especially if the valve stem points straight towards the axle as on a motorcycle wheel.. because, centrical force multiplied by impacts with potholes can actually let air out of the tire when that valve stem is in the right position during an impact. And finally, when you put your wheels back on your car/truck. Use a torque wrench/not your air impact gun at full power, over tightening wheels is one of the causes of warped rotors Depending on the style of rotor/wheel stud design.
NO STOP WAIT... What U doing Dad..? That flat end of the bar is ONLY for tightening (at 2:05 ), and later for loosening - the screw-down center piece. It is NOT for dismounting the bead at 2:10. THE OTHER END is for that job .. Note that the other end of the bar is NOT a handle - look at it's twisted shape - as that's deliberately designed that way, for holding the bead whilst you remove it (and for later use - re-beading the tire).
I wanted to change my tires on my quad I was told it would be $30 For each tire ..120 $ ..The store told me if I bought the tires there it would be free ... 🤔. I went to Harbor freight and bought this tire changer for around 40 $. bucks ... and changed all four tires in about 20 minutes 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 So I change the tires on my wife’s quad also. 😃
I used to to this work when I was a younger man. 1. Put soap on the tire when you are breaking the bead. The soap then has a chance to run down onto the tire bead. 2. When dismounting the tire press down on the tire and put soap on the inside (bottom) of the tire bead. The dismounting tool will not scrape rubber off the tires this way. 3. When mounting the tire; plenty of soap is applied on the inside of the tire bead and on the outside of the tire bead. At this time look at the rim and scrape off anything that would prevent the bead from sealing on the rim, use a wire brush. When installing the second bead, push the tire down onto the depression of the rim so the tire bead isn't broken. 4. Push the tire down to seal the bead before airing it up. Loosen the metal nut that holds the rim a little to allow for tire expansion before airing the tire up. Then pull up on the tire to seal the top bead. Line up the tire with the valve and wheel weight marks that you marked before you took the tire off. Air up the tire.
Somebody tried to give me one of these, I accepted, and has been my best investment ever. Tire store don't even know who I am, as they haven't seen me in years. Try this, mix soap and fabric softener. Then keep a squirt bottle to keep moist, it dries quick in July. I broke the little pin that sticks up through the lug hole, best thing that ever happened, I drop it in from top now. Lot easier to use. I broke the mount /de-mount bar several times. Found one off an old changer at a flea mkts, works great. I still use the original too, it just has a few welds here and there. I have put some rough old may pops on with my changer. I done thousands on mine. Dip your bar in the lube before you use, keep from damaging the bead. I have a separate bead breaker. Also a hi lift jack can bust the real tough ones. Can do it all at home out in the quiet country setting with used tires bought off the local radio AM swap shop. I do have an old balancer but seldom use.
Good demo, Been looking at these on eBay and the pictures dont show how its used, Couldnt work out what did what or how, But seeing you remove & refit is really good, Thanks for posting.
Some tires like passenger truck tires and suv tires can be pushed on like that, but if the sidewall is pretty stiff it is easier to just use the bar to mount the tires.
so weird the timing of someone replying to this comment on this video. i got my tire changer a long while back, along with the motorcycle attachment and the balancer but i have only used it for bike wheels and a wheel barrel , but just yesterday I busted off some change to get me some new tires for the Yukon and i am waiting on the arrival now. This one set i will make all my dough back for everything i have purchased. LOL I used a promo code for Cooper Discovery AT's 265/70r17's made in the USA with the same specs as the cooper Discovery AT3 - I have a gift card and the promo, by installing them myself I am getting a killer deal. 302.00 LOl for a set of white letter outlined made in the USA 65000 mile made in December of 2020 bad boys. I just have to do the work is all. CA CHING! Oh yeah I got all that stuff from harbor freight with a coupon from hell. LOL I have a 71 vw to change out as well and mazda b3000 4x4 and trailer tires , so this is really saving now. I will be up many $$ in the long run.
That's awesome there's nothing like saving the dollar doing it yourself only thing I will say is be very careful if there aluminum or mag wheels if you slip with the bar you can take a chance on damaging the wheel thank you so much for watching
I have an identical unbranded one here in the UK, which I got used but in very good condition for £30...They are £48 new on ebay. They are all cheaply made in China and their quality control standards seem to be almost non existent...I am mainly referring to the bead breaker, which on mine was not suitable for purpose. The first mod I did was to get a file out and file off any burrs on the edges of the blade, as I feared it would easily damage the sidewall of a tyre. The second mod I did was to the blade itself...I noticed that on videos like this one, it shows the blade of the bead breaker to have an almost 40-45 degree bend in it about half way down...But my blade only had a 10-15 degree bend in it, so it wouldn't slide under the rim and kept suddenly slipping off the bead onto the vulnerable to damage sidewall while I had downward pressure on it! So I knew I would have to increase the bend in the blade, which I did with a club hammer, a big bench vice and a 3 foot length of 60mm x 40mm x 3mm steel box section tube. A used the club hammer to sandwich between the centre of the front of the blade and one jaw of the vice, with the centre of the back of the blade against the other jaw...This was to make sure the angles on each side of the blade, which approximate a curve, were not disturbed. Then I slipped the tube over the two vertical bars and bent it forwards, using the tube as a lever...I probably only doubled the amount of bend in the blade but that made all the difference and now it doesn't slip off the bead anymore. Another mod that is really worth doing if you want to stop nice alloy wheels being scratched is covering the round metal plate you drop the wheel onto with a round disc of rubber. I cut one out of an old rubber car mat. I cut a hole in the centre of the disc so it would slide down over the central shaft. I also made a smaller rubber disc, again with a hole cut in the middle, to slide over the shaft and sit over the central studs, so the steel cross piece that holds the wheel down cant scratch the centre of alloys. I also cut some more rubber mat and made a cover for the steel channel under the bead breaker, so I can drop an alloy wheel onto it without fear of damaging it. I know you can buy special non damaging bars, with Nylon tips, for alloy wheels but they cost 3-4 times more than the whole tyre changer itself so I simply modified the stock steel bar by wrapping some duct tape over the ends...Works perfectly. :) By the way, you don't need to spend big bucks on fancy tyre lube, just use dish washing liquid and water...It costs next to nothing! As I don't have a special fast inflator to seat the beads, I spray some deodorant aerosol spray into the tyres for a few seconds and use a blowtorch to ignite the spray...It seats the beads instantly!...It is perfectly safe to this because the wheel is still clamped securely on the tyre changer. Then I use a standard tyre inflator and an old compressor to to the rest.
It's unfortunate that Chinese and for your goods have been all over the world I have actually thought about remaking this product but was heavy-duty materials to make it more Stout and definitely more usable I appreciate for watching this video
I plan on getting one of these and the balancer. I am going to drill and make some anchors in the concrete on my garage floor so I can remove it when not in use. Remove all my wheels, remove / replace tires and balance myself. I am also going to make repairs if I need too with patches and plugs. Tired of paying tire shops $80-$100 to replace a set of tires that already cost you $500+ a set
Just bought one and mounted it with flush anchors so i can put away when not in use and tried it for first time tonight took 5 mins to do one set of 4 here in canada would cost 80 bucks i payed 50 for the tire changer already saved 30 hope it will do atv tires as well
Got this for $30 after $25% off coupon for July 4th. Took 4 tires off and put 2 back on so far. Saved me $20 and I didn't have to give any money to Walmart.
Need to use the lube on the tire during dismount and mount. You can see him ripping the rubber from the bead when he removed the tire. If they were going to trash the tire it wouldn't matter but since he is reusing these tires, that bead is now weaker. Just an FYI for the future. The lube on the tire would have prevented that.
2:50 he just cut of rubber from the tire with the tool. 2:55 oops, he did it again! I was quite impressed watching him force the tire back on the rim, like He Man! But i doubt that he could do this with every tire. However, i believe he could force the tire back on with the tool, may be you could show this with a common street car tire. I think you have a nice vid here, like the explanation.
See I bent My old Harbor Freight tire machine bead breaker. Any Tips on how to Keep from bending the bead breaker? ( Harbor Freight 69686 machine) I don't have my Mig welder anymore, to weld any type of brace to the bead breaker. I bent my Old Bead breaker, But got a 2nd Harbor Freight machine, and would like to keep from bending the "new" one. Thank You.
I have the same design manual tire machine but mine is a larin brand, my bead breaker bent inward several dozen times and i cant really use it that much, has your bead breaker ever bend when trying to break the bead??
Se ve como rompe el sello de la llanta, muy probablemente eso cause fuga, a menos que sea una llanta que se deseche, de cualquier modo si usas la misma técnica para montar una nueva la podrías dañar igualmente, recomiendo depurar tu técnica y practicar 👍
Since I've made this video I've moved to my new shop and I definitely mounted mine to the floor. Once in awhile you will get a super thick side wall that you will need it bolted down to be able to break and to be able to remove the tire. Thanks for watching...
I have literally seen this same tire changer online. In seven different colors offered under different brand names. Their videos all show the same take off and installation procedures. I can't say that they aren't all remarkably similar in construction.
That rubber that came off the tire when dismounted is no big deal. All tires have a corner of rubber on the bead. That’s not where they seal. Unless you get carried away. Thanks guys..
Not bad but on aluminum rims I would protectbyhe aluminum rims from the metal hold down also make or get a special removel installation bad made of hard plastic or nylon tip so u ront gouge your aluminum rims
After moving to my new shop I've tried using mine so-called portable without having a bolted down. it's only possible when you have a friend hold it while you're able to take the tire off. I'm about to pour a slab and bolt mine down it is definitely not portable. Thanks for watching
You shouldn't need any sealant...On alloys, use a brass brush to clean up any signs of corrosion on the bead section of the rims and if they are smooth and clean your tyre bead will not leak. You can use a steel wire brush on steel wheels.
That is only for people who live outside the city or towns..it's like the farmers only they have extra diesel tanks in bed because they live outside the city...in a city or town with a lot of commerce nobody wants that given away
You're basically right this is a wonderful tool when living a remote rural areas where you need to take care of a tire right then and there not have to drive into the city thank you so much for watching
@@massis32210 Make one - it's easy as - use an old builders spirit level and a centering pivot . balancing made easy without costing an extra $20 a tire (to balance only) at someone else's work shop.. Or just use the one that comes with your trailer.. It's already fitted on the axle and is called - the hub Just the usual "old school" method of tire balancing. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yW554vVKgQY.html
you can mount it on a 3'x3' pad. as far as the thickness I would go about 4" thick. this one has the feet in the concrete. mine has bolts clamping it down. Thanks for watching.
avant tout démontage et remontage des pneus il faut s'assurer que le lieu est approprié pour le travail que l'ont va faire .ensuite être sur de pouvoir faire le travail auquel on est confronté.
Bars to big smaller bars needed, at our tire shop we use a small hand tire changer made for small rims under 12 inches... it would probably be just as expensive as this ms June
Wouldn't use this on just any wheel this right here most likely with scuff n scratch wheel and doing tires myself even with machine isn't always easy especially low pros and rf ill pass on this
You're right in some aspects in the big city where I used to live they would charge you for to $50 a wheel to mount but here in a small town where I'm currently living $5 to mount five the Dismount five to balance thanks for watching
I'm not sure if you can purchases this directly in the Philippines but you might be able to do international shipping from Harbor Freight thank you so much for watching
Обратите внимание!!! на 2-55 от покрышки оторвался кусок резины размером с Аляску! Это ЖОПА!!! В этом месте уже никогда не будет плотного соединения покрышки с диском. Будет травить что бы вы не делали. О чем я и говорил в своем видео ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NMbX-es44D8.html
