I bought mine last night , took her out today on the track & in a gravel pit. Very impressed . I'm Fpving with it. What a blast. Will post vides Monday.
finally hear someone talk about the junk servo horns axial so kindly provided...didn't know a stock servo would take them out though, mine stripped with mid grade hitec (brass gears are a no go, they stripped also!) thanks for your vids man, really enjoy them!
Don't forget that one could also fit a dowel or rod with some glue into the hollow male end of the drive shaft. Cures most of the twist and strip that happens on brushed 3s and light brushless systems.
The hubs can be easily replaced with Vanquish SLW hubs. An easy upgrade to save some cash and add adjustability. I'll be keeping the light weight wheels until I have as many of the weaker parts changed as possible. Heavier wheels add a ton of stress to the drivetrain and axle parts.
If you continually slightly over tighten them then they will eventually strip. You can apply a small dab of CA glue on the threads when you insert the screw to hold you over if it does happen. Then buy stock replacements or upgrade to VP housings.
Nothing is impossible. The CS170 is a readied Hitec 5955 which was a great servo. Have you changed the stock steering links? Those plastic links have TONS of give and basically act like a servo saver. If you're running a VXL it's obviously more basher and less trail truck which is more along the lines of what I do. So that's why I usually prefer a more responsive direct setup.
There is a big difference between a 1.9 dingo and a 2.2 Wraith as far as stress and driveshaft length goes. Modded shafts on a 1.9 would probably last a good long time. However I always prefer steel shafts. I run high power in almost everything.
I don't like that method due to needing to access the screws through the shafts to service them. Either way I would still replace them ASAP. Plastic driveshafts are never on my trucks for long. I want dependability, and they just don't offer that.
For a super cheap mod you could replace the plastic bushings in the AS-3 servo by bearings, just use the traxxas 2075 rebuild kit and throw away the gears. And since this video is all about MIP, I have a RTR honcho and I am looking for the perfect MIP driveshaft, do I get the SCX10 version (10145) or the AX10 version (08101)? Thanks and great video as always.
no servo saver? I use a kimbrough #124 monster truck saver with alloy steering links and love it! full wheel lock is scrubbed a little but i run a vxl and castle 3800 in mine,,, she seems to be a servo eater before that servo saver! Also, honest opinion on those bfg tires? thanks
I just started to build up a Wraith and was going to use your Spyder project as a guide. I was on the MIP site and saw the AX10 shafts are discontinued. Got any recommendations?
so you say that cs-170 is good enough to get rid of that junk saver? and yeah i run vp links all 10. first wraith rrp gears hd axial gears super shafty top shaft and tranny housing, vp as well as there alloy motor mount! cant forget the xd mip shafts and v v ps up front!
Don't glue your drive lines if you run in to the problem of collapsing and twisting your drive lines get some all thread that will fit tight inside the drive lines male side thread in the all thread all the way through the male piece cut the rod off at both ends this will keep your drive lines from collapsing and twisting on you the drive lines collapsing is the reason they will twist
