My first table build (and last) I had a manual stapler. Lets just say I had a similar celebration when the vinyl on the raised rail was finished. Many beers were consumed during/after.
@@DirkMade super late but I just saw this today. When I had my pool table installed the guy had a felt puller. It clamped about 2.5” of the felt at a time locked like a vise grip and you could pull it with one hand and staple with the other. Saving those cramps in the hands.
Mike DiEva I’m keeping those staple factories in business. Hey if one of them wants to help me out I’m all ears. I got some bills to pay and I’m not making money playing cards that’s for sure!
excellent work and above all the amount of machinery that allows a fast and neat work, but the most notable thing is that you do not have to go to any casino we have it at home and enjoy it
Where you at? I see all the AZ stuff but the front yard doesn't look like a typical AZ front yard and you have a basement. Thanks for the video, gonna be building my table in a couple weeks and this video is a huge help. Forks up 🔱
Hello bro you’ve done a fantastic job and no one can say anything I really enjoyed and i wish I’m in your country I’ll visit you and request one table from you 🤣 because i like it hhhhh peace ✌️
would you be interested in making another one and selling it? or selling this one haha , I want this exact table with the exact felt I can't find these felts anywhere that have the WSOP sponsors etc
Great video! Would love to try this. Curious why you used the spacers, and layers on the rail instead of just a thicker rail? - Also, did you use anything to protect the felt where the screws went through?
He spent alot of time doing things he didnt need to do he obviously a perfectionist u can make a table in a day may no where near quality but who cares for your mates etc move table but should have put leds lights in
8yogibear thanks for adding your opinion. Personally, I don’t care for the LED lights on tables. Sometimes they’re done very well, but most of the time they’re not. That’s my opinion of course as you would say a perfectionist. This table though definitely has its share of flaws I can point out. And we are all entitled to our own likes and dislikes on these things.
I like how you put the 1/4 inch spacer pieces into the rail, that way the bottom of the rail lines up with the bottom of the play surface. I’m definitely gonna do that!
great video loved it but want to scale it down by about 20%... trying to sort of figure out the dimensions and I see the pivot points for the jig are at 22", 20" and 17" but my question is how far from the edge do you place the pivot nail in the main board and then you cutout the 5" rail piece with the router is it using the same pivot point in the 4x8 plywood board
You want to scale the table down? Its up to you - cut it the size you'd want. Some people build tables at the full sheet size, 4x8. Some go even larger but for me it makes more sense to cut the width down a bit at least. And do you want to sit 8, 9, or 10 players? It really is up to you and your specific needs. This one I think I cut 4" off the widtth of a full sheet, so the 22" radius for the ends. Also cut 4" off the length because I don't like a full 8 foot table. Then the size of the rail - some like 4", 5", 6". Again it comes down to preference. One note not shown in the video - when cutting the inside radius you need to account for the size of the router bit. So i actually put another hole in the jig at 16 3/4".
@@DirkMade Thank you - I built it today. Cut the width to 44" exactly like yours but left the length at 96" since the poker felt is 46 x 94. i started the first 2 inch radius cut for the underside of the rail and quickly realized it needed to move the pivot point since it was only coming out to 1.5" width. I kept the rail 5" wide exactly like your dimensions - one thing i didn't have time to do today is to cut and glue the little spacers between the top rail and the bottom rail and also couldn't figure out why that was needed so i just glued and air nailed the two rails together without the spacers - hopefully that will work out tomorrow when I try to finish the upholstery on the rails..can you explain what s the purpose of the spacers?
So once you finish and put it where you want it must be you never plan on moving it again because that table has to weigh over 250lbs. So much extra material used
Compared to a lot of others it’s actually very light. This design doesn’t have two full sheets of plywood on the bottom like a lot of others, so it’s much lighter. I carry it and set it up by myself. Most of the time it’s leaning against a wall in my storage room folded up.
under the cloth as I mentioned in a prior comment is automotive headliner foam. I usually use something else called closed cell volara foam but this time that foam got ruined and I had to source something local and cheap. I actually prefer the auto headliner now. Not sure what paralon refers to.
For stability. A lot of poker tables use a second sheet of plywood underneath so the table doesn’t bow/sag. This one instead uses that frame to make the table rigid but keep the weight much lighter than another sheet of plywood.
No blisters, but I did get a bloody thumbnail somehow. You can't see it much in the video because its mostly edited out but I kept wiping up the blood I was getting on the rail and had to put a bandage on to try and contain the dripping. That rail upholstery is no joke.
What kind of screw did you use close to the end of the video when you were securing the padded rails to the table. You used a Allen wrench to screw it. I’m trying to secure my padded rail to the table.
It looks like a lot of material is wasted making the rail, I can see why poker tables are so expensive if that is the norm (like 80% the material gets junked!) seems a shame theres nothing else can be done with it. Do you do anything to the underside, I wonder if someones trousers could get caught on a staple!! This is an awesome build though, very ingenius to make that jig for cutting the edges (I know nothing about carpentry so its all amazing to me!) this video could almost fool me to believe Id be capable to doing something like this but it looks like a hell of a load of work!! The only improvment I can think is a secondary wooden rim that sits on top of table and just under rail, which could act as a drink stand...since you don't mind beer on the tables. I'd be using those saws on any friends on dared spill on that table after al that hard work though!! :))
I have made several other tables, one with cup holders in the rail. That’s fine, but I prefer the slip under tabbed cup holders because you can move them anywhere and also remove them if not needed. Cup holders in the table surface are an absolute no from me.
Can this be cut in half then wrapped separately then put together with hinges for more convenient storage? I watch alot of table builds never saw one that folds.
May be silly, but, what specific staples are you using? I used 18ga narrow crown staples (5/8” x 1/4”) for my speed cloth but don’t think they’ll suffice for the vinyl. Thanks.
You could and use an insert like an extending dining table does, but that would mean the playing surface felt would have breaks in it, which would affect the way the cards slide. I wouldn’t do it. More bother than necessary. Build a regular size table and if you don’t have a full amount of players just extra room for everyone to spread out.
@@DirkMade room is my problem. I don’t have the room for a Full size and chairs to occupy full time. Temporarily is fine. But I agree with the issues you brought up. That’s why i asked because I can’t think of a Way around them either. Thanks.
@@DirkMade there are 11 people in our group so we usually average about 8 each month. In between, when I’m not the host, I’d like a small 4 person round table.
Watch the part where I make the circle jig. Measurements there that will tell you the size of the arc radii. From that you can figure all of the dimensions. Also, look online there are a lot of plans available. But it’s up to you really. Some people don’t cut the plywood down and use full 8’x4’ size. I prefer it smaller and cut the sheets down a bit both lengthwise and width proportionally. The table won’t fit 10 as comfortably but I generally don’t fill more than 8 per table so that’s ok with me.
Awesome build. For the leather, how much extra fabric would you recommend for completing the upholstery on the arm rest. I am trying to get an idea for redoing the arm rest on my table
Hard to say without knowing the dimensions of your table rail, how thick it and the padding is, how stretchy the material is you are using, stuff like that. You are using real leather?
DirkMade my table is 6 and a half feet long and the its 3 and a half feet wide. The arm pads are 5” wide and are about 1.5” thick. I plan to use faux leather with a decent amount of stretch
I don’t have written plans for it but there are plenty available online. See perfectmancave[dot]com. Or pokerchipforum[dot]com. Lots of table threads there. Pretty easy to figure out though. Full sheet of ply is 8’ x 4’. I use 3/4” thick plywood. You can see the radius sizes I used when I mark them on the circle jig. Some people build full plywood sheet size for a bigger table and don’t cut them down. I prefer a bit smaller size table.
Awesome build. Learned a lot! Two questions: What's the dog called, and is there a pattern/method to your stapling, or is it just "as many as I can, wherever I can."?
Doggo's name is Kona, as in Kona coffee. There is a pattern to the stapling. Basically start on the outside sides, starting in the middle. Then the ends, and from there its a keep splitting the space in two. Inside rail is the same but from the inside of course. There are a lot of staples, but they're used to help keep the tension even on the fabric AND to make sure that all the wrinkles in the vinyl are worked out and gone. I use the end of the stapler to actually press out the wrinkles at times too if you watch closely. The vinyl will tear too if you don't put enough staples in because it wants to pull back. For some diagrams on what order to do the staples in an oval poker table rail, I'd suggest searching for that on the perfectmancavecom forum. Lots of discussion on rails there.
What were those hex type screws you used at the end of the video?? They attached the felted table top to the rail. I am currently building a table and would like to use them.
This might not be the exact right size, but I use basically these and get them at the big orange box store. www.fastenal.com/products/details/0140680 For the other end of the bolt, a lot of people building poker tables use T-Nuts but I prefer threaded inserts, install is easy as seen in the video. Make sure of course, that the thread sizes match. In this case, both bolts and inserts are 1/4"-20. www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-20-Zinc-Plated-Insert-Nut-4-Pack-801884/204274222
