Thanks, Tmam. What you did is beyond my ability for now. I have a '98 500 just bought, and plan to begin w/ simple preventative maintenance, but, it's got some repairs that I will begin after that. 1st will be adjusting or r/r choke, and/or carb rebuild. At 22 years use, its going to need more. Hopefully you'll be able to share more, for what is one of the most numerous ATV quads in the world.
Tom S. I'm happy you enjoyed the videos. Once you get into working on it, Its really not that bad. I like sharing my knowledge with people and glad it helps them out. I have a lot of videos on Polaris. If you have anything specific in mind..let me know.
on a written version, which what I needed for my 1997 Polaris Xplorer 500, here is that: "Torque all bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern": *Torque bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (3.04 kg-m) *Torque bolts to 51 ft. lbs (7.04 kg-m) *Loosen bolts evenly 180 degrees (1/2 turn) *Loosen bolts again another 180 degrees (1/2 turn) *Torque bolts to 11 ft lbs. (1.52 kg-m) *From this point, tighten evenly 90 degrees (1/4 turn) *Finally, tighten another 90 degrees (1/4 turn) *Install two 6mm bolts and torque to 6 ft. lbs. (.828 kg-m) the Pattern per my service manual is this.. please not that 5 & 6 are 6mm bolts, I couldn't post picture but that is what it shows... 3 2 5 6 1 4
The manual actually says to back it off 180° after you do the 51-ft pounds twice , so 360 or a full turn. and then tighten to 11 ft pounds which makes sense because of you back it off 180 at least on mine they were already over 11 ft pounds tight still. My only concern is I backed them off 180 the second time and two out of the four broke completely loose. So I cracked them all loose and then tightened to 11 ft pounds and then finish the procedure crossing my fingers I'll be all right.
Very well done video, not Fluffy with a whole lot needless talk. I'm going to subscribe for Two reasons, one I already mentioned, and the second is I am going to be doing one of these in a few days. I just thought of another reason, and that is more and more people keep coming to me for help. We don't have any actual repair shops within 30+ miles So I kinda help fill in. I get paid in some unusual ways on occasion. When it comes to the Kids around here I get this in trade mostly. The other day I got a Singer Sewing Machine with Cabinet and all (1960s Model) in exchange for making a Header for one Kid. It needs a Timing Belt but it is a pretty good Machine. Who knows I might have to check out some other things you have done. Anyway I really liked the video, Thanks Again!!
Thanks. I try to give as much detail as I can. I have some videos where I experimented with different carbs, turned a 425 engine into a 500. You'll have to check it out. Keep up the good work. I have people I'm helping too. I usually get parts or other things in exchange for the work I do.
Great video. One question. If you do not lose the timing chain, can you just reconnect it once you get the head back on without checking the timing? Also, are there any water jackets in the bottom jug gasket?
I’m having issues with compression, it reads 30 lbs and won’t start. I was told it could be the rings, do I have to go through it the same way you did here to check on them? Or is there an easier method. I’ve been fighting my machine for two years lol need help Thanks 😎
I got this complete and realized I only backed off 180 degrees once. Will it be bad for me to loosen and start all over, or will it ruin this gasket doing this process twice?
I have a scrambler 500 with the exact same head gasket issue. Debating whether or not it's even worth the insane amount of work it takes to tear down and replace that gasket. This thing has been nothing but trouble and one continuous problem after another!
@@TitaniummanGarage If i lived in wisconsin i'd gladly sell it to you. Have literally spent more money repairing this piece of crap than i paid for it, and its been maintained and never abused. Appreciate your time and info
Is it a aftermarket? I've had the same issues. But if the rockers are loose what is stopping it from turning? I've seen worn heads where the cam sits..the holes are scored bad causing the cam not to turn properly. Or the weight for the decompression ball not in the correct spot.
great video very helpful just one question you say step 7 ? i count 6 or did i miss something....i am not in any way nit picking just want to be sure before i start thank you !!
Ha Ha. I was wondering when someone would bust me on that. I did skip a step. The next step was to loosen another half turn, but the bolts were loose enough I didn't have to do it. Nice catch.
@@davidegan3934 Make sure the gasket is a good thick one like polaris. Beware of the Chinese knockoff gaskets. They dont hold. Too thin. Make sure the head is perfectly flat so it seals.
I have low compression on a '99 Sportsman 500. Tore it apart and am replacing rings. Rings appear very thin. Visual and leak check on head appears fine. New rings arrived (Polaris PN 3087224) One ring is thick and black (no marks), the other is copper with silver outer lining with a "N" marking. Which is the top ring? Which is the second ring? What is the placement of all the rings? There are WAY TOO MANY opinions on this from what I'm reading.
I Have a question the Torque sequence is 21 lbs then 52 lbs thats 73 lbs then you loosen the head bolts half turn then you tighten the bolts to 11 lbs then a quarter tern numerous quarter turns does that not damage the head gasket? 73 plus lbs crushes the head gasket Thanks for the video I watch everything you put one out good stuff thanks for your time and effort
I had thought that too. But what your doing is cutting into the jug with the threads. The bolts also stretch. At the engine plant I worked at we tightened them then loosened them then torqued them down again at 80lbs.
@@TitaniummanGarage why are threads being cut being they already exist? Also did you use new headbolts. Because i thought head bolts that stretch "torgue to yield" could only be used once. Mine was running like crap with a new and old carb so i got a new fuel pump on the way. But i did look at the cam and its within spec but figured while im in it a little might as well do the headgasket. Hope the niche brand i bought isnt garbage. Thanks for the videos.
@@justinpaone2227 yeah..that's the name brand that leaked on me. Hope you have better luck. Ideally you should replace the bolts. I reuse mine as long as they are not twisted or bent. Cutting oil is what Polaris recommends
I just replaced the cam on my 96 sportsman 500. Got everything all back together and running good but now I noticed I'm losing coolant and it's not leaking on the ground. Checked my oil and reservoir is about an inch fuller. Probably because coolant getting into oil? Is your guess head gasket?
If im at top dead center. Does it matter if the chain skips a tooth on the crank when re indtalling the cam as long as the 2 dots are facing north? Or is it better to remove the flyeheel and stator to make sure?
@@TitaniummanGarageif the crank sprocket and the cam sprocket are properly time before taking the head and Cam sprocket/ chain off to replace the gasket. The when reinstalling the cam sprocket and the chain, as long as the crank sprocket hasn't moved, it seems to me it should be good without removing the flywheel. The main thing is to make sure the 2 dots on the cam sprocket is reinstalled facing north or the exact orientation that it was before disassembly.
I’m so considering driving this thing down to you to fix, or a dealership. I rebuilt the top end with a Chinese cylinder head and piston kit. New carb, was running great! Let it idle for a a long time and putted around the yard in low. 2 days later I decide to get into it in high gear, it starts picking up speed and something goes bang and it dies. Found the plug diode bent on itself so in theory it hit the cylinder, but why it did after 2 days of running fine? Any ideas? How much you charge for a rebuild lol, if you are cheaper than the dealership I’ll consider it!
I dont have faith in any of the Chinese parts. Who knows how it was machined or the tolerances on it.I would have the oem machined. I didnt know they made heads. I just saw cylinder jugs.
@@TitaniummanGarage my correction, yes the Cylinder not the head. So strange though it was fine until I got into it in high gear. I ordered a boroscope to see if I popped a hole in the piston. Should be here tomorrow. You dont by chance have a whole motor for sale do you?
@@TitaniummanGarage figured it out, the piston cracked and threw a chunk into the combustion chamber thus mashing the plug. so I will be taking it back apart again. just wondering now if I have to take the crank case apart to remove all the metal chunks now.
@@richardli8634 I had to do that. First I grabbed a thin plastic hose and taped it to a shop vac to suck out the metal. I found the counterbalancer was in the way and couldn't get a big chunk out. So to be safe I would suggest splitting the cases.
@@TitaniummanGarage yeah, I figure it is better to not cut corners on the process. I dont want to damage the bottom end. Top end isn't too bad, new case may as well just find a whole new motor.
