Polaris Coolant Change & MUCH MORE. Overheating Issues Troubleshooting. 

Fantastic. Gad it was of help.

Glad to hear it. It's a great way to get familiar with your machine and also gives you peace of mind knowing your ridding something in good working order. If you don't already have one. There are many repair manuals out there. And I find them priceless and full of lots of helpful info. There is a link in the video description and below for a decent one that covers a broad range of years. I usually get more specific with mine but this is a good one that won't limit you to a specific year amzn.to/3rFQW6p Have at it and good luck with your project.

Makes sense. Good tip.

Thank you. And thanks for taking the time to comment. More to come. And of course if you haven't seen. There are more videos on the channel you may find of interest as well.

Glad it helped!

Glad it helped. Thank you for the feed back. Hope you're able to sort it out.

Good luck!

it’s the sensor im sure haha.

Thank you for the feedback. More to come.

Thanks 👍 My target audience.

Hopefully its of help. Good luck.

Hey, thanks!

Hope it helps you solve your issue. Let me know how it goes.

Mine is 2008 Polaris scrambler 50 so some would be different but I will check!

500 I meant

I jumped to the 500 conclusion. Hope it helps.

Good info. Thank you.

Glad it helped. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.

Glad you liked it! Hope it helps. More to come.

Glad it was of help. Much Appreciated.

Thanks for watching! Glad you found it helpful. Thats the primary goal. Lots more videos on the channel Polaris related and other topics. And more to come.

Glad to hear it. Primary goal. Thank you.

Some set ups, that can do it just fine. And this time around that's pretty much all I needed. Some can trap air pretty good though. I think the set up on this one is pretty accommodating for that. I just mention some of the concerns so people with other setups are aware of the potential or if they're trouble shooting over heating issues. And those hesitant to DIY know what to be aware of if they have different set ups. Trapped air in the system is a common source of overheating issues. Certainly not the only one. But it can cause what some call vapor lock which is basically the lack of proper circulation of the coolant because of the trapped air. Taking the extra few steps can give you peace of mind and keep you from finding out about it the next time you ride. It is nice when it all works out as simple as you describe though. Thats for sure.

It can be frustrating. Hopefully the video helped some.

Yes I will. Glad you enjoy them. Was there something in particular you were curious about or searching for?

@@ericinalaska7648 Thank you for the reply. I have a 2000 polaris sportsman 500 which is practically the same as yours and thats what started me watching your utube channel. I'm not looking for anything in particulor just noticed you haven't posted in some time.

@@jaxxxxxx48 I have a few things in the works. That machine is in a good state at the moment. But I do have a few things that need editing, as well as a RZR 800 Im going to dive in on in the not too distant future. And a few other unrelated random projects. Thanks for the support. Much appreciated.

Hard to say. May have been as simple as previous owner over tightening. Or taking off and putting on in much too cold of weather. Plastic may have just been brittle for one reason or another.

Yep. Seems too. Slowly but surely. And certainly nice if you don't have to compromise any seals.

@@ericinalaska7648 I had a blown head gasket in my 04 Polaris 500HO just getting it all put back together...found that my thermostat isnt opening all the way...its supposed to open 5/16" at 205°...it only barely opens maybe 1/8" and my radiator was plugged with grass seeds and dirt...so I think those 2 things caused my problems...but it's been a great machine...at 10k miles all my internal parts are still in near new condition as far as specs...thanks for your video help

@@bradgeagley4019 Sounds like you're on it. Both can definitely be contributors.

I am not aware of a fuse. The wire I used to test it, or bypass the sensor with is home made. Just a pc of wire and two male bladed style couplers crimped on. You could just use a pc of wire as well. Just a little more challenging to make sure you have the ends in and making good contact. Thats really all you need. I crimped the blades on so I could be hands free and know I had good contact. Do you see circulation? Coolant flowing in? If your level is where it is suppose to be you may not see a big difference in level as your thermostat opens and closes. If you're not seeing circulation. And you get overheating you have an issue trapped air or perhaps with the thermostat. Not to self promote but if you watch the entire video I cover the most common symptoms and causes. Im happy to discuss and help but the video covers it better than I could typing it all. Let me know if there are anymore pcs. to the puzzle.

Hello, Thanks for the quick response and ,I have been subscribed for a while now and watched your videos several times before messaging you and many of your other Atv videos and I'm new to Atv repairs myself, I will test the fan since it is not working and check the thermostat as well, When I took the radiator cap off the there was only a small amount of fluid below the top. I did overheat very badly about a month ago and the overflow lost all fluids when that happened. I did fill up the overflow today and will continue to attempt to locate the issue. Thanks Again for the quick response and keep up the good work.

@@gofishingfishing Well let me know what you learn or if you have any other questions. I'll do my best to help.

Ok Thanks , Will do

Hmm. Good question. Well Id think you'd have a continuous flow raising the overall operating temp likely. My instinct would be that you wouldn't have as strict of temperature regulation. Which is what the thermostat helps do. Gets to a certain temp and opens. Things cool to a certain temp and it closes. Keeping things within ideal operating temp ranges. Letting it flow all the time would likely raise the temp overall due to less time cooling in the radiator while the thermostat is closed. Just constantly circulating and heating and cooling only a bit. Still better than no cooling but would likely be running at a higher than optimal temp. Maybe out of its comfort zone causing excessive ware and tare. Your fan would be working overtime as well, I would think. Im just sharing thoughts really as I ponder your question. Is it something Id say Id never do? No. Would I avoid it if I could? Yes. If I had a bad thermostat and was out away from a proper repair and had to pop it out to get back. Id certainly entertain that without pause. Would I just remove it cuz? And run it like that from then on? No. It has a purpose and a function. And If I were to remove it as a temporary solution. Id want to repair/replace it ASAP. Id just have too. Id be concerned I was setting myself up potentially for more or pos worse issues while out in the middle of no where. But Ive never done it long term so maybe not fair for me to say. Some maybe have or maybe in situations like yours do it regularly without incident. But ...... Id try to avoid it if I could personally. Hope that helps? Just some thoughts on it.

Thanks Pal for the prompt response. My polaris runs and shuts off after a short distance. I have change a mikun carb, Coil, CDI, stator, and still the same issue. Any suggestions.

@@carlosdominguez3053 Yah that would be tough one to even venture a guess without a hands on look. Shuts off like stalls out fuel related or just dead electrically?

I would say fuel related. Since the lights would stay on..if I let it cool down, and started on, it would fire right up...run a distance and die again.

@@carlosdominguez3053 Well. Sounds like two things left to try really since you replaced a lot of the electrical. Again without seeing it first hand m only guessing at this point. A cheap thing to do of course is a fuel filter and check all your lines to make sure you have no leaks air or fuel. And then of course theirs the fuel pump.

Not sure off the top of my head. I'll have to dig into that one a little. At this moment Im sitting next to the Tanana River east of Tok AK. Just doing a little adventure. When I get back in a few days Ill look at mine. I think I understand what you're saying but if you reread and think you can explain it better that always helps when we're not both standing there looking at it. I feel like I know what you mean though. I'll follow up in a few days when I get back if you can wait that long. Its been awhile since I mad this video and I certainly haven't watched it since. Are yo able to see it at all in any of my camera angles?

Thanks for your reply. At about 4.30 on your video I can see the ends of the tie rods at steering column. The one on right side is in-between two pieces on column and one on left is below.bottom piece and has a spacer in center Thank you for response and enjoy your adventure

Thanks and welcome.

@@ericinalaska7648 this might no an off topic question but why do I have 2 chains on my 1993 Polaris trail boss 350 4x4

@@jesseyosborn9645 I have never owned or worked on a chain driven. I have ridden, but thankfully they held up and I didn't need to learn about the setup beyond that. I googled it a bit but didn't find much. Primarily single chain to the rear. When you say two chains. Is yours double to the rear or one to the rear and one somehow to the front? Or? If two to the rear do you have reverse on your 1993 350 trail boss ?I admit Im fishing. Without seeing it, Its hard to say. The only images I could search out showed only a single chain to the rear.

If you look on the side of the spout for the radiator cap. Should be a little stub sticking out the side below the cap on the neck of the spout same side as the overflow. Its been a bit but I think I babbled a little about it in the video. Maybe not. Hope that helps.

Oh nice. There you go. The copper washer is possibly a crush washer? What year make and model?

@@ericinalaska7648 It was not a crush washer... 2004 Polaris Sportsman 400 H.O.

@@jackonthefarm5540 Good to know. Ill have to peek at mine to see if it says anything. I don't recall seeing anything. But if Im ever working on one like yours it'll all make sense.

Glad you liked it. More to come.

Well I know Seafoam is a very popular weapon people turn to and the feedback Ive seen has been interesting and commonly positive. But I haven't personally used it. My limited understanding of its use is to clean and clear or treat any bad fuel, buildup or blockages gumming etc. One thing Ive seen is that after treatment to take it for a spin and get it all circulating and flushing things out so to speak. So if you haven't already. Id replace the fuel filter for sure. Anytime your trying to clean a fuel system and remove any buildup. Wheres it gonna go? Yes the hope is to dissolve and or reduce and hopefully burn it out with fuel combustion. But there is certainly the likelihood of an accumulation in the filter with an incomplete flushing. Or if you're treating the system downstream from the filter. Thats its job and when it does become clogged it can then inhibit the flow of fuel causing the engine to starve for fuel and causing a stall. It stalls, recoups its fuel needs and starts again. I hesitate to use this wording that I read in another article and the writer indicated that the directions indicate after introducing the product to then "Be a bit aggressive on the throttle driving" Or words to that affect." Definitely refer to the instructions on the product. I would think that this would help force the product through while still in a heavier concentration helping to clear and dissolve any buildup in theory. But if the buildup is significant and the seafoam is diminished before the job is done. Or if your only treating the system downstream from the filter. There you go. Anytime Im dealing with cleaning a fuel system. Id include a fuel filter. As a last step of course. Let the old one get out as much as it can first. There super cheap and money well spent. And ..... If you still have an issue. For little financial commitment. You know that's not the problem. Unless you've plugged a new one. But unlikely. I also reread and see the that you have EFI. Id have to look into it a bit regarding that product and EFI and its proper application. Side note. I always or almost always use "Stabil" or other fuel stabilizers in the fuel I use in my wheelers, generators, chainsaws, lawnmower etc. Yah its another expense but If you get in the habit of putting a few ounces per directions in the can every time you fill it. All your equipment is always protected from the woes of ethanol or other. I still try to run stuff dry for longer term storage but life doesn't always work out that way and you'll have pc of mind knowing it has treated gas in it. Its never failed me. Hope the info helps. Let me know how it goes.

@@ericinalaska7648 thank you for your suggestions, they are much appreciated. I will definitely see about changing the fuel filter. I'm wondering if some junk got dislodged and got stuck at the fuel injectors. I'll keep ya in the loop.

@@teyyet2004 Definitely a thought. That was mine when rereading and seeing the mention of EFI.

The two things that come to mind that can cause that. would be fluid level, since you just did work that involved fluid draining and possible air getting in the system. But also a simple relatively cheap fix. New radiator cap. It may not be functioning properly and stays open allowing fluid to overfill the reservoir. When it really shouldn't be. Its designed to open at a certain temp and pressure created by expansion of the coolant as it heats. If your not overheating and its allowing fluid out anyway. I'd suspect that. If you were overheating. It could be just about any of the components. And the process of elimination as described in the video would come in. Hope that helps.

In short. I wouldn't recommend it. The thermostat is there to keep your machine running within a temp range. It can only be a few things. If you've cleaned the fins on the radiator well. And replaced the thermostat and it's still doing the same thing. All that's left really is the fan, and the temp sensor for that. Or is there air in your system causing a lack of circulation? Can happen during a coolant change/refill. And the engine temp sensor /temp light. And radiator cap. I don't know the year make and model of your machine, but if its newer. The more electronic engine related gadgetry it has the more running without a thermostat can cause unwanted results I would think. If you've done a coolant change recently or prior to this issue. My money is on air in the system. Also make sure your overflow reservoir is at the proper level.

Meaning in the video? Or what does it mean if it is in general? Or what causes it? If you meant in the video I'd have to review it and see but when all is said and done and things have circulated properly and any air has been worked out etc. It would/should not be when not at operating temp.

Is your hose configuration the same as in the video or different. On a lot of machines its beneficial to elevate the front end while filling to make sure you don't get air trapped in the system. As weird as it may sound if you get a large air bubble in the system it can interfere with proper circulation of the coolant. That however should not stop your fan from coming on or thermostat from opening I wouldn't think. In fact due to poor circulation and where the air is trapped, It would maybe cause the fan to be on more due to the increases temp and lack of cooling. How long did you run it after? Maybe ride it a bit of course paying attention to your temp gage. Bounce and rock it good while riding then after it cools enough to safely take off your cap check the level again. What year make and model do you have?

@@ericinalaska7648 same year and model only red. 1999sportsman 500. I ran it for about 15 minutes until the coolant was steaming and rising in my funnel. The only thing thats different on my machine is the radiator. The radiator drain plug is an actual thermal sensor thats wired to the fan. I. Didnt realize it was a plug/sensor and left it in while draining. I let all the coolant drain through the water pump cover. I ordered a new thermostat and radiator plug thermal sensor. I'll flush it all again this weekend and replace those two things along with jacking it up in the front to help. Thanks Eric, is there anything else you might be able to think of? Also, I have the dead speedo so no temp Guage indicator. I'll be installing a tachometer today to read temp, and rpm.

@@thebrothers4311 Did you test your fan by bypassing as I demonstrated? Might be worth it. Only other thing Id suggest is filling slowly and allowing it to percolate in. Helps minimize air trapping. In addition to elevating the front end. Did you see the video on the playlist regarding the speedo repair? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ADNyJ5sx83o.html May not be your issue but worth a look. Anyway. Id be curious to hear how it goes.

@@ericinalaska7648I did bypass the fan after watching your video, and it turned on. I've read that the fan may still be good and operate with a the override, but the sensor may be bad and not telling your fan to turn on... not sure if that is true or not. Also, I did watch the speedo video and I've been digging around in there. The old owner bypassed the 4x4 already so its not the prettiest in there. I can definitely here the transistor or something in the speedo rattling though. Unfortunately, im just not good at soldering nor is anyone I know. I may just put a new speedo like the replacement I've seen on RU-vid.

@@thebrothers4311 Yes good point about the sensor. Just because the fan works doesn't mean the sensor is good. But you've ruled out the fan being and at least. I had a guy who has a lot of experience with that type of soldering do mine as well. The new speedo's are a bit speedy but prior to the attempt working out I was considering it. Sounds like your on it. And learning more and more as you go. Thats key. Keep at it.

Leak at the hose connection. Can really only be a couple things. Not saying you did but the instinct to try smaller clamps made me think of it. Over tightening can reshape the spout and that can damage/crack leading to leaks. Also consider the condition of the hose. If its old hard and brittle or cracky. That can do it as well. Id start there.

@@ericinalaska7648 first I replaced the hose that goes to the thermostat and the radiator. It still leaked, so I bought a new radiator and now it's leaking on the other hose worse than before. New clamps first and then scrap bin! Lol. It's a 97 scrambler 500, same radiator though. Thanks

@@jaredfloding7949 Yah if everything other than the clamps are new and nothing was over tightened. And hoses are in good shape and a good snug fit prior to hose clamps. Id double check all the surfaces of the radiator and hoses and try the new clamps. Those are really the only things it can be. A leak is only going to come from a damaged or distorted or poor fitting part. As long as everything is fitting properly and making contact as it should. Nothing cracked. Shouldn't leak.

@@ericinalaska7648 I agree 100%

@@jaredfloding7949 If you find some other mystery issue or solution. Please share.

As far as the fan coming on often. If it is overheating enough to cause that. I would just go through the reasons discussed in the video. When running or at idle without motion. You have no airflow through the radiator so that could contribute to what you've described but if it seems lime the fan is on a lot or more than what seems normal. Again. I'd just go through the list discussed in the video. The sluggishness other than when in idle could be a few things. Poor carburetor tuning. Fuel pump issue. of course fuel filter. But what you described. It sounds like the filter may be the lesser likely of those options. Hope that's of some help. Let me know what you learn.

@@ericinalaska7648 Thank you for your reply, I will get back to you when I find out what is wrong with it. The Polaris should be very much like the one in your video, the one thing that is different is the back brake is a hand brake on the right side, not a foot brake, but that should not make much difference on the engine and fuel system, I think.

@@ericinalaska7648 Hi. I did not get the time, between running my business and raising my two little ones, to find the faults . Because of all of the issues with the 04 Polaris I now have a 2023 Polaris 6x6 BigBoss 570. During the autumn I will get the 04 to an old man who has a business repairing snowmobiles and ATV's, and will get back here with his findings if it might be of help to someone else having issues with their Polaris.

@@robolobor Sounds like a nice upgrade. Yes please share what you learn.

​@@ericinalaska7648p

Are you talking about the engine temp sensor? It should go to the engine temp light on your instrument cluster. The red light that comes on if you engine temp is too hot.

Man. When it rains it pours. Sounds like you've been at it.

and all this with no manual just youtube@@ericinalaska7648

Im not sure what your referring to. You mean the pc under the red cap? I don't recall if its blue or not. Od have to check the video. Ive had yellow red etc ..... But if that's what your talking about Im at a loss for the name at the moment but I believe it assists in helping with pressure relief in the event you over heat and pressure builds up too much in your overflow/recovery bottle. Your cap usually has a small pin hole in it and that pc keeps it from leaking or relieving itself I believe until enough pressure builds up in the bottle. There may be a better explanation but Ill have to look it up. If that's not what your referring to let me know. Hope that helps.

Got it.

Many possibilities. Simple starting point would be to consider the quality of the fuel.If its old or contaminated drain and replace. Check all your lines to make sure they're in good condition and good connections.Replace the inline Fuel filter. Cheap. Then go from there. Its really hard to guess and troubleshoot based on the limited info. But that's a starting point. And based on your previous question about fuel. It made me wonder about the fuel quality or proper fuel.

Yes. Not recommended. 50/50 is the usual ratio if you buy premixed. Not to sell you half a jug of over priced distilled water. And it should be distilled water not tap water. It's what''s been determined to be the optimal mix for most scenarios. If you dont mix it properly, say no water, it doesn't have the same cooling affect or heat transfer that it has with water. Also I have read over the years that it can cause engine damage on its own if not diluted. I recall something along the lines of some of the heavier particulates in the coolant will settle if not mixed with water and not properly circulate causing damage. Im confident a quick google search would explain all of that in greater detail if you want more info. But to simply answer your question. Yes there is a reason not to. I wouldn't.

Dispose of your antifreeze at a service station, recycling center or auto parts shop. Many service stations, recycling centers and auto parts shops will get rid of antifreeze, and they're the safest means of disposal. I usually pour the old from the drain pan into empty jugs. If you don't have that option in your area. Ive read some places its permissible under certain criteria to solidify the liquid by adding something that will absorb it like floor dry or cat litter etc and then put it in a plastic ziplock like bag and then wrap in newspaper and toss in the garbage. You'd have to check your local regulations how ever. The whole concern is keeping it out of and contamination of ground water. So dumping on the ground or in a storm drain or things like this are obviously not the way to go. Most auto parts stores, Napa, O'rieley's, Auto Zone etc usually take it. Or have anyway to best of my knowledge.

Usually if Im riding hard enough for it to come on it runs pretty consistently after that. Unless its able to cool enough to make the temp low enough it'll keep running. And not off again until I stop and turn off the key commonly. Ill have to monitor that a little closer in the future though. I can't say with full confidence that it stays on all the time or if it cycles often. Im talking about riding that's putting some demand on the machine though. Mud etc. Goosing it often. So you've eliminated air in the system, Cap is functioning properly, fan is functioning,(Coming on when hot) water pump is functioning, and Thermostat is functioning or replaced, you have circulation, Check engine/temp lite on?

I did not have to. But its definitely a possibility to have to. Others commonly pull just the one bottom bolt and drain it that way. Slow but will usually do it on some models. Then theirs no gasket concern. Id have to look up the torque specs. I don't know it off hand but I can clarify that for you if that's what you're after. Let me know. If so and I"ll grab a manual to get that for you. Just away at the moment.

@@ericinalaska7648 No thank you, but that isn't necessary. I was just wondering. I just got a mint 500 and I'm going to be changing all of the fluids. I've never changed coolant though. Is it necessary to drain the coolant from the water pump when changing it? I really do appreciate your videos, they are great!!!!

@@Motocr8zed Its just being thorough. I believe that's the lowest point. Or just above being another low point. ) Not looking at it at the moment.) So to completely drain it thoroughly it helps.

What seems to be the problem with it?

Weak battery? Then it recharges a bit and the oil is warm and less viscous? So it starts easier? Im only guessing. Hard to say without first hand, eyes on it experience with what you have going on there. But based on what your telling me. Thats my guess.

Hmm. Not sure on that one. I have a 2011 RZR 800 also. The running slow makes me think of two things Id check. The fan itself as you suggested. Would probably be the first thing. Bypass the thermostat Using a jumper like I demonstrated in the video and just see if it runs properly and at proper speed constantly. If all seems right there I'd consider the thermostat. But another thought as I write is. Before all of that. Id check all my connections. Make sure no wiring is compromised. Exposed. Loose. Poorly connected. Corroded. Hope that helps.

Makes a lot of things easier I think.

What year make and model do you have? Or is it the same with a different configuration?

There are two common types. There are more, but either ethylene glycol (EGW) or propylene glycol are the most common. If your machine recommends to use aluminum safe coolant, that would be Ethylene Glycol. If you have some off brand focus on the the ingredients. I have seen some odd uncommon brands that are other colors. Im at a loss to list them at the moment. And who knows if what the bottle said is what was in it. You can either get it premixed with distilled water or by full strength and add your own distilled water. What I used and is most often green is Ethylene Glycol. Should say safe for aluminum.(at least per my machine.) See the sticker on your radiator if there is one or owners manual to confirm what your machine requires.. Brand of your choosing. I just used a store brand. I recommend products designed for ATV use. And manufacturers recommendations or warranty requirements of course if your still under warranty. Thats when I would stick with Polaris branded stuff. Its my understanding that any warranty issues can be voided when their products aren't used. Otherwise I don't and wouldn't hesitate to use other. With a a few exceptions. Hope that helps.

@@ericinalaska7648 great answer 👍

I don't have mine in front of me but am not aware of this on the one in the video. I'll be looking for sure though again next chance I get. I did some digging. No reference to it in the manual I have anyway. I did some searching as well and the closest thing I came up with which was not specifically for a 96 400 sportsman would be the link below. Again not specific to your model but process he describes would apply if what your thinking is a bleeder is in fact a bleeder. If I come up with anything else Ill let you know. And if you solve it prior. Please let me/us know what you learn. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QOcuiPFK8Qg.html. I know its not a definitive answer but hope it helps.

@@ericinalaska7648 I know there is a bleeder bolt / screw on top of the 400L engine as I did crank it open once....a long time ago. When I had the engine rebuilt, I opted to install an automotive mechanical temp gauge in place of the engine temp sensor. This helped me monitor what the actual temp was, not an idiot light. So now I will be involved with replacing it with a new unit as the old one failed. The bleeder screw is in the same vicinity of the temp sensor port, so now I have to figure out do I just keep adding coolant to the radiator once the thermostat opens up or do I just crack open the bleeder screw once the engine is up to temp. I am pretty sure if I just crank it open once it is up to temp the air in the top of the cylinder head will be gone.

@@lorettacaputo6997 Well based on that. I think that video I included the link for will be of great help. He describes exactly how and when. Check it out. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QOcuiPFK8Qg.html

@@ericinalaska7648 Yes, that will work for me. Thanks.

@@lorettacaputo6997 Good deal.

BTW... your videos are a god send. Thank you for helping beginners like myself!

On mine its raised letters molded in the plastic around the petcock.On the side removable plastic piece. At 12 O'clock it says "Res." At 9 O'clock it says "Off" and at 6 O'clock it says "On". Hope that helps. And thanks for the appreciation. Glad your finding them helpful.

@@ericinalaska7648 thank you Eric

@@margaretwilkinson9140 Absolutely.

Is your battery dead? Or it cranks and cranks and cranks but won't start?

You certainly can but it of course will not be as thorough and beneficial. Flushing helps remove any scale deposits or rust, in some cases, that can build up over time and cause issues. Sure some will come out with the coolant just draining it, but flushing helps remove any left behind. And its also why you use distilled water because its had the minerals etc removed as apposed to water from the tap or hose which can contribute to deposits and scale etc. As you saw in the video I really didn't get crazy with flushing but still felt obligated to at least run some distilled water through it. Its cheap and pretty quick and simple. Do I feel strongly that it will be the thing that ends the life of my machine? Probably not. If it were under warranty would I do it more thoroughly and as recommended? Absolutely. Hope that helps.

I haven't ever had to, but I would assume there is a replaceable bulb if you get into the headlight/instrument assembly. Pretty simple to open. Screws in the back and one on each side of the bottom front. Opens right up then. Next time I have a chance or need, Im going to look at that.

Broken wire between the headlamp assembly and the connector on top of your transmission...I had a mouse or squirrel chew my reverse wire in two up by my carburetor

Gas. No mix.

It's usually one or more of the issues discussed in the video. Thermostat, pump, temp, sensor that triggers fan, fan, or air in the system. I'd imagine doing all of this you drained and refilled the coolant? So Im thinking pos air in the system. The other pos would be plugged up fins on the radiator. Ridding through mud or brush and plugging up the fins will do it as well. As harmless as that seems it would be. Ive seen it and lived it. But Im wondering about air in the system from what you're telling me. Thats what Id explore based on what you've tried and explained. If you skimmed through the video and maybe missed some of that. I do cover all of it in the video if you want to hear more detail. Really not much else it could be. I'd be curious to hear what you figure out.

I’m pretty sure it was air in the lines I took all the lines off and ran water through them and then put all new coolant in it and did the burping method you did and it seem to run good now and so far not overheating and the coolant seems to be flowing nice

@@chaseholmvik5666Good to hear. Love it when a plan comes together. Thanks for the follow up.

My first instinct is. How do you fill it? Gotta be a way. Something hidden. So I did some googling. What year is it? The few things I found make me believe its oil cooled not water cooled. Meaning the oil runs through a radiator like/style cooling system. Cooling the oil as it circulates. Does that seem to be or make sense? I have zero experience with that particular machine but at a glance Im thinking that may be the case. Do you have cooling fins on your cylinder block? If so that's likely the case. If you're not convinced trace the lines from the radiator your describing and see where they go or better yet. See what comes out if you disconnect one if you feel comfortable with that. This is of course just a quick brief exploration guess. Hope that helps.

@@ericinalaska7648 After some research through some Polaris forums, It's oil cooled. Engine oil is circulated through the radiator.

@@bill_mosienko There ya go. Thats what I ws seeing as well. Wasn't 100% sure but all info I could find indicated that. Glad you were able to solve the mystery.

If you're ATV is the same year make and model as the ATV in the video. Pretty standard for most Polaris though. Any ethylene glycol based coolant mixed at 50/50 or 60/40 coolant-water(distilled) is what's recommended. (For aluminum engine/parts.) There should be a sticker/label on your radiator next to the filler cap. . As always, make sure to follow you year make and model specifications.

@@ericinalaska7648 Thank you! You are awesome love the videos.

If your hoses and drain are in the same place as in the video.Hoses up top. Drain plug on the bottom corner one side or the other. I Don't see why not. If your hose is on the bottom where the drain plug is in this video. You'll need to disconnect the hose to drain it. And You'll want to raise the front end while refilling it to aid in air removal. I haven't laid eyes on that model but I believe 96 -99 or 2000 are very similar. And if you have all the same anatomy you should be good. If anyone has more insight regarding this machine please feel free to jump in here.

@@ericinalaska7648 thanks for the quick response!

@@mjd3dits Of course. Good luck with your project.

Is it leaking as things warm up Id assume? The coolant reservoir is actually an overflow or expansion reservoir. So as the coolant heats up and expands it has a place to displace from the radiator. That capacity is calculated to accommodate within proper operating temps. Thats also why there is a fill line. If your coolant is getting hotter than normal temp range. It has to have some place to go. Thats where the leaking out of the cap comes in. And in extreme temps it'll shoot out. And if that's the case you'll have to troubleshoot what's causing that. All of the things mentioned in the video. It could be coolant not circulating due to trapped air, improper cooling due to radiator being plugged with mud or bent fins. Bad thermostat. Fan not functioning properly or at ll. Pump not functioning. These are just of the top of my head. Probably missing something but if you watch the entire video Im confident I babble about the causes and reasons a few times. Hope that helps.

@@ericinalaska7648 Thank you, and yes it squirts out when it gets really hot the fan kicks on as well ill keep messing around.

@@MrQUICKRABBIT Let me know what you learn.

@@ericinalaska7648 I noticed that when it’s sitting at idle it doesn’t heat up but as soon as I keep giving it gas that’s when the coolant comes out it can idle for 10 minutes and won’t heat up, but I drive around and rev high that’s when it heats up and coolant squirts out the coolant reservoir

@@MrQUICKRABBIT As I mentioned in my previous response. You'll have to troubleshoot what's causing that. Go through all of the things mentioned in the video. It could be coolant not circulating due to trapped air, improper cooling due to radiator/fins being plugged with mud or bent fins. So not enough air flow. Bad thermostat. Fan not functioning properly or at ll. Sounds like your is. But it docent mean its doing anything if the fins are plugged up. Pump not functioning. These are just of the top of my head. Probably missing something but if you watch the entire video Im confident I babble about the causes and reasons a few times. For those that skp around. It'd be hard for me to say exactly your specific issue without hands on. And even if I had hands on Id still have to go through the process of elimination. Fan works. So that's not it. But its still overheating. That leaves circulation and the pos of inhibited cooling. Meaning pos the radiator is plugged up with mud? Or fins bent? Is the thermostat functioning? I wish I could offer a short cut but you just have to take it step by step to rule out causes.

Ive read your other comments as well. It sounds like you have a 2014 Sportsman 570 with EFI. And your having over heating and battery issues. Hopefully this video was helpful with the over heating issues. What seems to be the problem with the battery. I can use google translate if that's easier for you to.

Which video sir pls send me a link

@@balajigomathy6907 This video. The one your commenting on is the video regarding over heating issues.

Thank you so much

@@balajigomathy6907 Of course.

If it is absolutely not working. And you isolate it. Eliminating or bypassing the thermostat, (Temp sensor) and have power to it and it doesn't come on. Sounds like your fan.

When I check to see if my radiator is circulating it does circulate but it's not as strong as when you showed how yours circulates

It's like it circulates but it doesn't drop any like yours does?

My set up is just like yours on the radiator it's a 98 Polaris sportsman 500 4x4

@@gdunavant2011 My instinct/concern would be that its either circulating or its not.

Commonly yes. Mine is just a plug though. I actually considered swapping it out for what you describe but decided Its really not any less messy either way so I left it as is.

Is the drain petcock at the bottom of the radiator? I just removed the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator and I cannot for the life of me thread it back into the radiator. The threads on the radiator seem soft and I'm worried I've cross-threaded it.@@ericinalaska7648

It can certainly happen with something as simple as not frequent enough oil changes. Does it have what is some times described as a milkshake look? Kind of milky and maybe grayish whiteish swirl look to it? If that's the case it's possibly/likely a result of coolant being mixed with the oil commonly a result of a bad head gasket. Another symptom would be white smoke from the exhaust. But not necessarily . I believe one can exist with out the other but if you have both. You can probably conclude you have a bad head gasket.

@@ericinalaska7648 thanks for the reply mate and someone stole the quad off me I then got it back from someone else he just said it seized up as I’m waiting on parts I have drained the oil and it’s like cake mixture only way to describe it how would I flush it out ? Would diesel do the trick ?

@@gvn-xk6eq If your not sure Im confident you could take it (a sample of the oil) to a shop and get a professional opinion. They could probably look at it and tell you if it's contaminated somehow. Say with coolant. But the seized up info would make me suspicious for that. (Coolant) As far as flushing? Id personally just tare it down and clean everything and rebuild/repair as needed. Probably not your preference but flushing it really won't answer any questions or solve any mysteries. If you were to flush it and put oil in and say it's still presenting a problem. Which it sounds like it probably would. You've spent time and money only to decide what the next move is. Let me know how it goes and what you learn.

@@ericinalaska7648 do you have a email I could reach you on or social media instagram twitter Facebook etc? I’m in the Uk I’m struggling to find a woodruff key as it has sheered off a little but I would really appreciate some advice and help if I get stuck along the way I’ve only ever rebuilt pit bikes from the ground up nothing bigger

@@ericinalaska7648 sorry for all the questions but I’ve removed the stator and found the cog that sits on the crank arm which holds the timing chain is broken I’ve removed it which was hand tight I’m wondering how do I tighten it back on is it with a castle socket or is it meant to be hand tight only ?

Hey there, I did a quick search to try to come up with a quick easy way to explain trouble shooting it. Check this link out. Covers it pretty good. atvhelper.com/how-to-check-for-spark-on-an-atv-reasons-for-no-spark/ Should get you on the right track. There really are only a few things that usually cause it.

@@ericinalaska7648 if inwere to pay you to get it running how much would you charge me ? I don't have a garage or place to work on it . Currently in the bed of my truck with dead battery cuz I used the winch to get it there after it died on me

@@aarongreen8368 Im pretty tied up for a bit. But If I were available Id certainly entertain trying to sort it out for you. But I have a few things going on for a bit. First thing you should do of course is maintain that battery. Not gonna accomplish anything if that's dead. Get it charged. Or replaced when the time to work on it comes. Then when weather permits take a shot at some of the things in that link I sent you. Im gonna be a tied up for a few months. Id rather be doing that though trust me.

@@ericinalaska7648 thank you for sure I will look into it for sure I appreciate your time . I will get back to you thanks Eric

@@aarongreen8368 No prob. I think once you get into it and follow along one step at a time trouble shooting as that link indicates. You'll figure something out. Start with the quick simple stuff and go from there. Maybe you won't even need to go far.

Coolant used. On this machine anyway. Ethylene Glycol. Should say safe for aluminum .In this case. See sticker on your radiator usually next to the cap, or owners manual to confirm what your machine requires.. Brand of your choosing. I recommend products designed for ATV use. And manufacturers recommendations or warranty requirements.

@@ericinalaska7648 dawg what are you saying

@@comodice905 You said "What Coolant" were you asking what coolant to use? There are two common types. There are more but either ethylene glycol (EGW) or propylene glycol are very common. If your machine recommends to use aluminum safe that would be Ethylene Glycol. And water mix. You can either get it premixed with water or by full strength and add your own distilled water.

@@ericinalaska7648 nailed it congrats

@@comodice905 Covered that in the video 23:45 in if you want to see it or hear me babble more about it. And in the video description as well. Happy to clarify if you missed or skipped that part though. We all do it sometimes.

Were you able to find the answers you needed?

@@ericinalaska7648 yes

Yes. Can't emphasize that enough. Commonly overlooked. (Discussed in video as well.)

Well ..... I hope you're able to solve your issue. Was there something in particular you were trying to clarify in greater detail I didn't cover?

Yah sometimes that's motivated by trying to be thorough and address common questions people may have. Some of its just babbling while Im demonstrating something. Or maybe it was a little cabin fever that day. People tend to skip around a lot. So I tend to recap in some videos for that reason as well. Always working on it though. Hope you got something out of it at least.