Great explanations in this video. I love that you're very thorough. I would like more pictures like the one with the trench around the pool. Also, pictures of service panel or sub panel where bonding occurs.
You mentioned the concrete walls of the pool need to be bonded, how exactly? Do you have to run a 8awg copper wire through the rebar before spraying concrete? or just add a lug to one part of the rebar?
Thank you I really appreciate all this info. I am a plumbing and building inspector and I just started studying for ICC E1 electrical certification. Could you please explain bonding requirements when whole above ground pool is resin or pool walls are resin-plastic encased aluminum. Electrical inspector in my place of employment is confused and he almost never require a circular bonding around the pool and just recently he allowed grounding rod right by the pool. I just don't want to learn it the wrong way. Thank you.
Congratulations! If you're planning on doing projects over 25,000 per project then you could go for it If it were me I would get my ICC E1 and E2 first and then go for the CE
Awesome video! Thank you! You pretty much covered any questions I had, except one. What about a ground rod or ground rods for an in ground pool in South Florida? Should they also be used and tied to the rebar? And to the pool equipment? Thank you in advance for answering my questions.
Hi, very thorough, thanks. I will have a copper riser + hose bib within the 5 feet. What fitting gives a good enough connection while not breaching or crushing the water pipe?
That was a great video. Thanks to your video, I fully understand what bonding really is. One question that I have is for non permanent pools which are used as a permanent pool, such as a metal frame with vinyl liner where the connections between the posts and rails have plastic between each connection, and the pump gets upgraded, how would one bond that?
I plan to bond our above ground salt water pool only because it is recent requirement but I have yet to justify the requirement, At least in our case. All power is intentionally over 6ft from the sides of the pool except for the salt cell. I put in a GFCI to plug in the control panel that controls the pump and salt cell and I test or replace it every spring as my wife is prepping to open the pool. Grounding/bonding is a major safety thing at work us as we work with a mix of energetic material and electronics. A single small arc of electricity could be deadly. We (electrical, mechanical, and aeronautical engineers) discussed bonding a pool and while we agreed that it probably would not cause any harm to do so, we struggled to find a valid reason to do so. I am going to do so only because it is simple and cheap to do so, and I want to sell the house someday but am not convinced that it is neccessary. Additionally I did ground the pump and the control panel to seperate ground rods. If one should short out I want to try to avoid losing both of them.
Woaaah thanks for this lesson - here my question : I have the sub panel Siemens with # 10 green ground conected from another panel … please tell me if I need to install a new 2 bar pole rod copper topically it’s 5/8 and 8 ft on the ground ….and attachment together with the other green it’s coming from the other panel - may I conected together?
There can be a soup of chemicals that can change the corrosion of metals near pools. Do the listings of grounding hardware have to be designed for that specific chemical environment?
If theres a rebard grid around the pool and there is #8 whips in all 4 corners coming out the pool could i use the rebar as a way of continuing the bond by just taping into the rebar at those 4 corners instead of having to run #8 all around the pool ?
It seems like you might know more than the others I have viewed on UT regarding bonding. Can you tell me something? My inground pool is prolly 25, maybe 30 years old. I did find a ground (GROUND) rod driven into the earth next to the concrete deck that surrounds the pool. This was nowhere near where the pump and filter are located. The ground rod did have what looked like a #8 copper wire attached that disappeared under/into the concrete. I had an ABOVE ground pump installed that just failed. I'm replacing with an INGROUND pump. The new pump has a clear bonding device. The old pump did not have a bonding device - it was properly grounded (not bonded) via the electrical supply. So, the question I have is this: What do I BOND the new pump to? I don't think there is an equipotential grid installed on this pool, and I really don't have the intention of installing one. Should I BOND the pump to earth via an 8' copper rod? Should I do nothing? Attaching the bond to that ground rod I found is physically impractical due to its location. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!
You talk about being young and having a pool without any modern protection....DUDE you should have seen the set up we had at my grandparents house... We used to PLUG in the motor back in WHILE IN THE POOL!!!!! UNBELIEVABLE none of us got killed. No GFCI/AFCI protection.. Pool wasn't bonded, NOTHING!! I never ever had the slightest shock.. Now its basically impossible to get whacked. Thankfully we're here to talk about it!!
Great question! Definitely work with your local electrical inspector and with a qualified license electrician, but the location of the pump does not change these codes but may change the methodology
Booster pump and my pool pump attached together with a copper line but when I changed booster pump I had to cut attachment of copper piece. And now I noticed that this copper line end should go to ground onto soil with a metal pole. right? It seems it was detached. I was looking for information where attached copper on motors go. As it should go to ground. Am I right?
What is with the 8 AWG copper bonding wire when even 18 AWG is sufficient to drain off or equalize any leakage current or voltage and in all other electrical situations (appliances) the ground only needs to be the same gauge as the hot and neutral supply. I ran 12 AWG to my pump and used 12 AWG to bond the pump an upright and a ladder support bolted to my deck and measure 0 volts between all conductive surfaces , also my ladder is removable but only when the pool is closed and covered ,and the inspector was happy 30 years ago when I installed the pool. Also since the pump is on a GFCI doesn't that make all of these other requirements superfluous? And yes I do make sure it trips with the test button monthly.
