I’m a retired RV tech.The dealerships would never do this good of a job. They would just convince you that it cannot be repaired, and order a replacement top, that they have hundreds in stock! You have done exactly what I plan on doing to my own, as soon as this camping season is over! That thing will last a long time, and I hope that you and your family have many great days enjoying it!! Be Proud of your work, it’s top notch!
Wow!!! Thank you for the awesome and kind comment. Much appreciated. It was a fun job … without much experience. 1 step at a time. Over 30 trips since and still better than new!! Good luck when you get to yours. And enjoy some great camping ahead. I’m in a tent beach camping in Cypremort Point, Louisiana as we speak!! Thank God for a nice breeze coming off the bay. Cheers!
You just Empowered the living crap out of me buddy . They said I’m just a girl - but I have tools and can read same as them- I can do this with this video help. I’ll show them 🖤
Yes you can!!! Hi! Thanks for the great comment. Looking back at this video I wish I had included even more details. But you get a good idea and I want to assure you, you can do the same good, successful job I did. Slow and steady. And just make sure the top is held securely open with good boards or other means of support … then you can go to work! All will be put back together - including the curtains and anything you disconnect from the inside. It’s actually a fun project. The new side and back walls create a sturdier camper than before. Just had another trip here… into 25 degree nights! … and all was as good as new! Good luck and I’m wishing you great success and happy camping ahead!
Finally, a good video on the top side panel replacement. I was shocked that it only took three days. I only need onside done. better get too it I have 9 days to get it done.
I really appreciate this video My Rockwood side walls are so badly rotted and I knew I could do it but did not quite know what I would get myself into. I always questioned splicing the plywood together but what you did works great Thanks again!
Thanks for the comment Kasey! And glad to hear your words. YOU can definitely succeed with this project. Well worth it and fun - just take your time and go step by step slowly. A big part of the process is getting the camper roof supported with 2x6 boards or something similar so that the work is easier and safe. Good luck and happy camping ahead!!
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your camper. I’ve learned it’s not that difficult to make some good repairs. And very worthwhile. Happy camping!
Thanks. Yep. Mostly it’s the cheap materials the companies use. This repair has held up WAY BETTER THAN NEW for over 2 years now and about 30 trips!! Luan plywood instead of cheap press board. Couldn’t be happier. Good news is once you fix a few things and keep an eye on trouble spots, you can rely on the camper solidly. Worth it in my book… nothing like pop-up camping, canopy set up and having those windows opened up with some awesome air flow and being right there close to nature. Hope your camper cooperates!!! Cheers.
That was great! I am in the progress of similar water damage repair, but only one side and the rear panel. Started the job and ran into some quandaries which your well-made video answered for me. I must get that metal bracket off and go for it. I will be referring to your video for the next day or so. Hope mine turns out as well as yours.
Thanks for the message. Hope you have great success and it comes out well. Just one step at a time and can get it done!! Just returned from another great trip here and everything holding up better than ever. Happy camping ahead!
Hi Troy, Thanks for the nice comment. Wishing you the best on your project. One step at a time and full confidence it will come out well. Worth the effort for sure. Been using the heck out of mine and still better than ever. Good luck and happy camping ahead!
Just bought a 99 Rockwood Premiere with some rot in the corners. This is exactly what I want to do and will help when I do a hard side conversion down the road. Thnx
Ha!! I can relate. But no chance. Too fun out there once it’s right. Cool breeze, windows open, Gulf waves, birds… I can almost hear the fish ready to bite the next morning! I hope you reconsider. :) Cheers!
Hope some of the process on the video helps. After the fact, I wish I had actually been able to film more of it. Definitely a doable project and will come out good. Step by step. Everything goes back together no problem. Good luck and feel free to ask any questions.
Yes very common unfortunately and can still manage even with the water damage and no repairs. But definitely much better once repaired and sealed back up. Hope you have good success with yours! Off on another trip tomorrow. Weather is perfect finally!! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Joel a child of God Miller Thanks Joel. It was a fun project and just had to go step by step. I’ve found all the “repairs” to the camper have been manageable and well worth it. Hope you are able to proceed with yours... and most importantly, able to get out and do lots of enjoyable camping. Good luck!
Thanks for the video. This is a job that I have to do as I just bought a second hand pop up and the side walls are both rotted. I’m taking my family to a 3 day music festival next month and this has to be dependable
It’s a job worth doing. One step at a time, and it will come out better than new. Just be sure to attach the posts back in the same spots so the camper will open and close perfectly again. Good luck! Happy camping and enjoy the Festival!!!
Judging by the comments, I guess a Palomino is not the camper to buy. This should not be a problem with newer campers! It is shameful the company made and sold such junk. I have a 1999 Dutchmen Voyager whose sides pulled from the roof over the winter. That is how I came upon this video. I think a lot of brands/makes can be repaired the same basic way, so thank you for sharing your ideas and solutions.
A shame they all seem to develop this problem. Aside from that, I will say the Palomino has been a dream - no other issues and everything electrical, propane, furnace, etc. has worked fine. And I should preface by saying this camper was extremely used and had been left open in the elements for a long while. Forest River has been good responding with any needs as well. That said, I sure would love a brand new pop up with shower and toilet included!!! Good luck with your camping!
Hi Mark, Thank you for sharing this video. A friend gave me a camper and stated that it needed minor repairs. Well……that wasn’t true. I need to replace rotted wood. I was going to give up before I even started. The interior to really clean and no damage so I decided to keep the challenge. I wish you were local, I could use your help, lol. Just kidding,but not really. Wish me luck.
Hi Lori! You can do it. Even if it’s only partly successful, you will still have a better camper than before. I’m no expert - mostly a fisherman and tennis coach and not a carpenter, but found that if you just go one step at a time you can get it done. And quite fun to see the camper come back to shape and better than new. Good luck and happy camping ahead! Send over any specific questions and l’ll be glad to try and help. Cheers!
Good luck! One step at a time and can get it done. And well worth it. Mine still better than new after 3+ years since repair. I will help as best I can with any questions. And maybe you’ll enjoy some of the fishing videos as well! Cheers!
Great video. I'm about to start on mine to replace that back board. I've taken off the extrusion on the corner but I'm wondering how to get that bottom cap off. It looks like there were three or four screws through the rubber gap seal which I removed but I don't want to start prying until I have a better idea of what I need to do to get that off. I figure once it's off. I can remove the old rotted wood, slide a new piece of luan up there and reattach everything. Are you using the old rubber channel or did you find a source for a new one?
Bob Collins Hello. That bottom metal cap/bracket is screwed on/into the old wood from underneath. Once you remove the rubber gasket you can easily remove those screws. My camper had 6 or 7 screws. I saved the metal cap/bracket and reapplied it with the same screws once the new piece of luan was in there. Then some new rubber gasket (from Forest River RV Co.) slid right back into the gap. Good as new! Hope you have success. Good luck! Ps...cleaning that metal cap/bracket is also easy with a chisel and some Goof Off product. Well worth it - can then apply new adhesive and caulk as well.
Mark, Thank you for this video. I have the exact same year and model Palomino with the exact same damage. Question, could you tell during your repair where the leak had originated from?
Tim, Yes, the water entered from the corner caps - the caulking had gone bad and allowed water in from the top and sides at the corners. Also, the rubber gasket seal under the trim (the white tubing I show being replaced at the end) had gone bad long ago and allowed water to come up from underneath the ceiling and side walls even when camper was closed. Purchasing new corner caps and gasket tubing directly from Forest River/Palomino very easy and well worth it. About $60 total. Fair to say this camper had been neglected for a while before I purchased it used. Hope yours comes out as well as mine. Love this little camper!! Worth the repairs and leads to some fun, simple camping. Hoping to go out in mine for a 2-week trip soon. Good luck and thanks for the sub. Keep me posted! Happy camping.
Nice! I hope it came out like you wanted and better than before. I find it’s much more stable now when cranking up and down. No risk of the roof support beams pulling away from the side walls. And of course no future water intrusion issues. Happy camping! Thanks for watching and for comment.
David Thibodeaux I think so. This was a solo job for me... would definitely need help to take the entire roof off. Also, my ceiling was in great shape so it was easier to just do the side walls and nail/screw right back to the ceiling. It’s definitely a bit of a job, but doable without taking the entire roof off. Saved at least $1,500. from an RV repair estimate. Took me about 30 working hours, but only because I’m no carpenter and have simple tools. Worth it for sure! Good luck.
Question what did you use to attach the sidewalls to the front and back board I saw were you used nails temporarily but what did you use permanently screws? Original mine are long stables.
Master Seal NP 125 is the adhesive. Master Seal NP 1 is a polyurethane sealant can be used for caulking. Orange tubes. Hi quality. Good luck with the Dutchman and thanks for comment.
Hello Master Yoda, Thanks for the comment. Metal brackets came from a local hardware store. I’m sure you can find them at any reputable hardware store, if not at Lowe’s or Home Depot. Some good screws and once put together it’s as solid as one piece. I also used some glue on the joint just for extra bond. Good luck and hope yours comes out well!
Thanks! Good luck with yours. Hope it comes out better than new! Well worth it. Heading out on another trip tomorrow and this old camper and repairs have been rock solid for 4 years now! (Knock on wood!). Happy camping. Thanks for the comment.
*Great* video. Am undertaking the same repair now. My side panels are fibreglass (I assume) on the exterior, but some kind of metal on the interior (which has curled near the lift posts). Can I ask whether yours were the same, and did you just not replace the interior metal (?) skin, but rather left it just painted and poly'd plywood? Hoping yes... sounds like a great, simple solution.
Hello Shelley, Yes!, exactly what I did. As far as I could tell there was no reason for the interior skin over the plywood. Just a good couple coats of paint and polyurethane. Looks great and has worked great ever since. Most of the plywood is hidden behind curtains, but could also picture painting the plywood in a favorite color. Hope yours comes out as good as new! Thanks for the comment.
Hi Mark, I just bought a used 2006 Palomino Yearling that has water damage to the boards on all four sides. You video is extremely helpful. One question. Does your roof arc in the middle so that the water will drain off? If so, how did you maintain the arc with the repair? Thanks, Brent
Brent, Thanks for the comment. Yes, my roof has a slight arc. I was able to maintain it simply by tracing the new side wall from the original. When you put it back together and re-attach the new side wall to the side of the ceiling and also attach the metal brackets it will return to the same shape. At first it will look like you made a mistake and the side board appears to not fit. Just work it into position and screw back into the side ceiling. Hope this helps. Kind of hard to explain. Just make sure the new side wall board has the same arc as the original and the roof. It will not be a straight board like the back and front boards. Good luck and for sure it’s a doable job and well worth it. Happy camping!
@@ThePentUpAngler Thanks Mark! This is our first foray into pop up camping. Always wanted to try it and found a cheap purchase to get started. I'm not a carpenter either so I appreciate your insights in the video and your reply.
Great video. I have a 2006 Palomino Pony. All Aluminum exterior. Rear roof board rotted out. I damaged the aluminum top edge when removing. Any suggestions on repairing the resultant gap created between the aluminum top cover and back rail?
Sorry to hear some damage. Not certain but I would think adding a good board (paint and polyurethane this board to prevent water intrusion) to the rail - making sure the connection to the rail is sound all across - then somehow fusing this board on the inside back to the aluminum top. I’m picturing this board being about 4 to 5” tall to allow space to fuse to the camper top. Even if you had to cut or trim the aluminum top (to make uniform all across). Then could apply either some aluminum tape (a great product - comes in 3 to 4” wide rolls) and/or adhesive and sealant over the connection and thus removing the gap. Apply Dicor rubberized paint over all at the end. The roofs on these campers don’t carry much weight, so this new connection would likely hold up and not face too much stress. Good luck!! Hope it works out and your back camping asap.
Hi Mark! Thanks for this video. I was given a 96 rockwood freedom pop up and me n my 8 year old have been working on removing the side boards and the ends...as luck would have it the roof is in great shape to re-attach new boards to! My question is this...originally it was attached with long staples...I'm thinking I'd rather use screws and drill a small pilot hole...I know it will take a bit longer but I was curious on your thoughts or how you attached the side boards to the roof? Thank you!
Hi Kevin! Glad to receive your message and report. My side boards were originally attached with small screws. I say your idea is the best way to go - replace the staples with small screws. Should be very solid that way. And easy to correct any possible mistakes by removing screws if needed. The pilot hole idea is interesting - but might not be necessary. For sure a VERY small pilot hole at most in order to insure a strong hold for each screw. If I remember correctly, each screw was about 8” apart. Good luck the rest of the way and hope it comes out great. Happy camping ahead!!!
i"m going to do my side boards this winter and was thinking about using pvc trim boards for the sides, could skip removing the skin and never have to worry about rot again... Thoughts?
Sounds like a very smart and efficient plan. Kind of like what I did on the interior - I painted and applied a coat of polyurethane, and did not reapply the interior skin. Sounds like your plan a great way to go. Good luck and would love to hear the final outcome.
Use 1/2” wood as the 3/4” was bigger than original and made reassembly a bit interesting. Can’t stress enough that replacing all the screws, nuts and bolts with stainless steel is a must.
I would just say to anyone, remember these things are built barely good enough. If you replace a board with thicker/heavier, your lift system may or may not like the extra weight.
I'm about to make similar repair to my trailer. What's the secret to removing the metal piece that runs the length of the trailer where the roof top meets the roof side? Looks like theres some sort of plastic or vinyl piece embedded in it that is probably cover up screws?
Yes, that’s a simple soft plastic tubing that covers the screws. Simply slide or pop that tubing out of the rail to expose the screws. Then the screws come out. Might need a knife/razor/chisel to help remove the railing due to some adhesive on the underside. Not difficult. I then used Goo Off product to clean the railing and scraped it with a chisel. And can order new tubing (in color of your choice) direct from Forest River. Good luck! Hope it comes out the way you want. Well worth it!
@@ThePentUpAngler Thanks! Tried it, and it's easier than I thought! Just received some stucco'd aluminum yesterday for the roof side replacement and waiting for new canvas to come back from RV Workshop.
I actually never had to completely remove the canvas. I detached a couple of spots at the corners and was able to do all of the work from the outside. The camper stayed propped partially open for the job. Did not have to raise all the way up until done! Good luck! Well worth doing. 30+ trips later and still better than new!
I ordered the weather stripping directly from Forest River website. They make the Palominos and Rockwoods. Super nice and can talk you through exactly what you need for your camper. Easy fit! If you have other needs, Hanna RV is excellent for parts. www.hannarv.com/ Good luck!!
How did you loosen up the glued wood from the backboard? For me, ends of the backboard are rotted out but would like to replace the whole board. It's glued tight with the fiberglass and I am afraid I might break fiberglass if I try to pry out the glued wood with any tool. Any advice?
Hello. Yes similar issue here. The rotted wood was easy to get off. The more solid parts that were somewhat still glued on - I was able to use a chisel with a 1 1/2 inch wide head to slide under the wood and pry off. Without damaging the fiberglass shell. (The wider chisel head kept me from puncturing the fiberglass. And I kept the sharp edge of the chisel facing upward into the wood). I believe once you get under that board a bit, it might release a little easier as you go. The other tip I’ve seen (but didn’t use), was a heat gun to loosen up the adhesive and help separate. Slow and steady and it should come off. Good luck!!! Hope it comes out great!
Brent, MasterSeal NP 125 Clear Sealant and Adhesive. Should be at almost any lumber or hardware store. Orange tube. The NP 1 sealant/caulk also works very well. Good luck!
Another question, if I may... you used rubberized paint to resurface roof, but it's fibreglass, right? I think I have the same pop up (Palomino real lite 1002... I think the roof if fibreglass - ?) Many thanks for the help!
Hello Shelley, Yes the roofing paint is made by Dicor. It’s EPDM Roof Coating and is actually acrylic. Works beautifully. Used a roller and applied 2 very liberal coatings after thoroughly washing the roof. I am certain it will work on a fiberglass roof. The coating allows for flex to prevent cracking. One full year later and mine still looks almost like new. One container should be plenty and will leave some for touch ups. Hope this helps. Good luck!!
I just used the same screws and attachments from the original. Made sure to mark the location of the screw holes on the new side wall boards. It’s very important that the lifting arms are reattached in the same spot so that the camper top will close precisely. Pretty easy part of the job. Just be sure to mark and also of course save all screws and nuts. Good luck and it’s well worth it. Happy camping!
Corner caps from Hanna RV. www.hannarv.com/ I ordered most of the other supplies directly from Forest River. Corner caps are also sold by certain online RV parts stores.
Mark, nice work on repairing your top. I have a 2009 Forest River with similar roof construction. The side panels were (operative word "were") OSB and the front and rear are regular plywood with open cell styro-foam insulation. The right rear side panel was mostly dust along with part of the right rear. The front right had an ant farm. The foam was thoroughly soaked and probably weighed well over 200 lbs. I could barely lift one corner. The waterlogged foam separated from the roof panel. The 2x2 framing around the roof vent was also dust. Oddly, the framing around the roof a/c was okay. Otherwise, the camper was in pretty good condition. The canvas and cushions weren't torn or stained. The exterior lights and power lift worked. Originally wanted a flatbed trailer to store my garden tractors, but this thing may be too good to strip out. Thinking about re-doing the roof instead. Thanks for your video.
Hi Tom.. Very cool report. I hope you opt for the repair!! Pop-ups can be a bit of a disaster, but once functioning well they are so awesome to camp in. Good luck with whatever you decide. Thanks for the comment.
I’m very curious how you adhered the new plywood to the fiberglass without getting a bulge from the metal supports and screws you used to get the 2 pieces of wood together?
Great question and something I was thinking about before adjoining the boards. Turns out the metal sheets and screws were extremely flat and “low profile”, while still being very strong. The fiberglass covering also just thick enough to avoid showing. Zero bulge and can’t see at all. Remains solid as can be! Good luck and happy camping!
Good luck with the project! I used a couple 2x6 boards with 2x4 boards flat at the top and bottom for extra support and no damage to camper. Did the work under a covered parking garage and left the camper open like that for a day or two. No issues. Just take time and move slowly to make sure no slips on the supports - don’t want the metal corner posts puncturing the top of the camper from underneath. I did this project solo. With one person’s help it would be very easy. Hope it works out real well!
I should have taken more photos. It’s now covered by the canvas and screening. But pretty much looks like the original when reattached. Maybe I’ll do an update video ahead. Happy camping!
Thanks again Mark for a great video and answering my questions. Am just about to get into the heart (and scary bit!) of this same repair. Three things: 1) did you put urethane on both sides of the replacement plywood (it doesn't interfere with adherence to fibreglass skin?) 2) what were different uses for two kinds of sealant? I have the Dicor non sag lap sealant... where did you use the NP instead? And 3) looks like you covered the lift bolts with something like eternabond and then painted over them, yes? It does seem to make sense not to leave those bolts exposed... sorry to pepper you with questions; you're my instruction manual on this repair, I'm afraid!
Glad to offer help (even though I am no expert!). Yes urethane on both sides. No problem with adhesion for fiberglass skin. I used the NP adhesion for securing the skin to the new boards. Found it was the best product. And the NP sealant was clear so I used for a number of touch ups and along some of the replaced rails. Easy to paint over with the Dicor. And yes, covered the lift bolts with a layer of gorilla tape and painted over it with Dicor. This was simply for aesthetics. Still can easily access the screw head of the bolts if needed. I trust you will succeed!!! Even a few mishaps can be rectified easily. Continued good luck!
We have removed our side boards and trying to figure out how to get the aluminum separated from the wood. You said you used a chisel and goof off , but that doesn’t make sense to us as the aluminum is so delicate. Any help or clarification would be really appreciated
@evstreet Hi. My side boards were covered by fiberglass. It was flexible enough and durable enough so that I could carefully scrape the rotted wood away with a chisel. A very wide headed chisel. A key for me was that the wood was fairly rotted and easier to remove. I know some folks have said using a heat gun will release the adhesion. I did not have to do this, but might recommend. Good luck! Worst case would be that it would be fairly inexpensive to buy new outer paneling - aluminum or fiberglass and cut and apply. Hope all works out! My approach was slow and steady!
Absolutely. Regular plywood actually probably stronger, but just slightly heavier than luan. I agree coating it is well worth your time. I didn’t even replace the thin fiberglass shell on the inside due to coating the boards and making them waterproof and looking good. Good luck!!! Happy camping ahead!
I'm currently dismantling a 1998 Palomino pop-up trailer. Everything in the roof is rotten and all fabrics moldy. Our kids are both adults now so we're taking it down to the trailer frame and building a proper hard and insulated travel trailer, seamlessly sheathed in epoxy/fiberglass so that it's impossible for it to leak, with a layout designed for two people. Amazing how cheaply these things are constructed, yet how much they cost the consumer. What a racket. What really killed me when I was taking mine apart was that what anchors the roof to the lift mechanism is four tiny 1/2" screws in each corner. Are you freaking kidding me?
Surely do agree with you! Such a shame the price of all of these campers these days. Glad to hear you are building your own. Would love to see a RU-vid on that! Luckily my camper was “left for dead” and almost cost nothing due to the condition. And I was able to clean it up real well and get it very functional. Always a bit of work going out in the pop-up camper, but I enjoy setting it up and finding ways to make it even more comfortable. Good luck with your build! Thanks for the comment.
I used the same screw holes as previous mount. The fiberglass shell can be used as a template for where the original screw holes are. Great question and an important step so the camper top will close perfectly with a water-tight seal.
When you did yours, did you have many spots where you broke through the fiberglass trying to get the front and back wood off? I just did mine and it was a NIGHTMARE! I’m gonna need to do some patching. Maybe get some white liquid rubber or something.
Hi. Mine was so rotted away that I was pretty much able to carefully scrape away without puncturing. I did have one small slice through the outer layer. Used some gorilla tape and covered with rubberized roofing coating to patch. Unnoticeable! And on the inside I didn’t even place the fiberglass layer back onto the board. Just used two coats of polyurethane over the new paint and kept the board exposed. No problems since it’s on the inside. Sorry for the issues but it can be patched up and solid. Well worth it. Good luck ahead and happy camping!
Was your new side board tapered or flat on top from the front to back? Doing this repair also and my new side board does not line up with the roof line and the back corner. I traced it exactly off my interior panel piece which is tapered but my roof line looks flat like yours does (1x2 frame along edge of roof). My exterior panel piece appears to be tapered as well. Not sure what I am missing or doing wrong. Or is it the top rail that attaches the side panel to the roof? Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.
I had same concern at first when trying to reattach the side board to the ceiling. If you traced it correctly (with the taper) it will fit back perfectly, even though at first it doesn’t appear so. The camper roof will actually curve down slightly on each end once you reattach with the railing. Start by screwing the side board back into the ceiling directly in the middle and use the metal frame to then work your way out to each end. Once you get out near each end you should see that the new side board and metal frame is “pulling” the ceiling down just slightly to match the slight slope. Hope this helps. Don’t panic. Sounds to me like you did it correctly. Will try to advise any way I can. Good luck!
And yes, my sideboard was tapered. You kind of have to force the ceiling to confirm while making sure the bottom corners of the sideboards stay level and attach properly into the back walls.
@@ThePentUpAngler Thank you so much, that makes sense! Good to know I'm on the right track. Did you put an adhesive in the track of the railing and then fit your board into it? Looks like I have Dicor sealant or some other old adhesive to clean out of mine. My exterior fiberglass panel is cracked in places so going to replace with flashing and paint. Going to paint the interior side of plywood like you did as well (interior plastic panel is all torn up). My press board was so rotted and disintegrated! Oddly there is 5/8's plywood on the front and back roof panels and they're in good shape. Thank you again!
@@bradhouseman2924 Really glad the video helped. It’s a very worthwhile job. I know I feel better every time I open and close the camper knowing it’s in better shape. You will have the same satisfaction. Yes, a tiny bead of adhesive where the railings attach to the new board. Then the screws. Better than new! Hope it comes out great for you.
Check out the 5:30 to 7:20 mark on the video. All of the tools shown and explained. And the wood used is discussed throughout the video. Very few supplies. I re-used almost all of the original screws from the rails and brackets. Cheers and good luck!
John Van Velzor The contact person I used was Logan Vaughn - email: LVaughn@forestriverinc.com Parts phone number is: (269) 432-9791. This was directly to Palomino, owned by Forest River. They should be able to get any parts you need. They were very helpful and prompt. Good luck!
John Van Velzor The top of my camper is plywood. Tends to stay in better shape than the side walls. Mine was fine, so no replacement needed and easy to nail/screw the new side and front/back boards into.
Dicor EPDM Roof Coating. It’s an acrylic rubberized paint. Used a roller and two coats. Very easy to apply and also easy to do touch ups later if needed. Good luck with yours!
I’m trying to find the retailer I used. I thought it was “Brenda’s RV Parts”. But can’t find that online. Corner caps are pretty common… I would definitely think the exact style could be found in Canada. Sorry to not have more info. Thanks for watching.
I would say about 20 hours. But some of that was waiting for urethane to dry on the new boards. If you coat/paint the new boards as soon as you get good measurements off of the framing or old boards, it will save you some time. And I worked fairly slowly. With good tools and decent skills, I’d say easy to do in 2 days. Good luck! Hope you get it done and comes out well.
I used a 1 1/2” chisel to gently scrape off the old wood. Also applied a liquid product called Goo Off to help loosen the old wood. Once the wood was scraped fairly clean, I then used a circular sanding pad attached to my drill and slowly sanded it down smoothly. Not too rough of a grade of sandpaper. Sounds tedious, but actually goes pretty quickly and pretty easy to avoid damaging the fiberglass shell. Good luck and I hope your job comes out great! Well worth the effort!!
Same here. I used a wide chisel to pry and scrape it loose. Then a sander to smooth out. I’ve read where some people used a heat gun to help loosen the adhesive. I did not have to do this. Good luck!! Hope it comes out better than new!
Thanks for the video. Heard you say it took 3 days to complete. About how many hours do you think? I got an expensive quote to have this work done and I want to weigh my options before I spend the money.
Thanks for the comment. I would say it was actually only about 18 hours of work - and some of that was very slow due to learning a bit while I went. With a better game plan in place before, along with all of the tools and supplies ready, I bet you could do this in 10 to 12 hours. And that’s completely solo. One person helping and for sure you are well under 10 hours. Well worth it I think to do yourself. (One key step - if you paint and polyurethane the new boards, do this as soon as you can - getting proper measurements. This will allow drying time and ready to install as soon as other parts are ready. I also realized afterwards that paint and urethane was not really necessary, but glad I did it to further prevent any possible future water damage). The quote I was given was at least $1,500. The total supply cost doing it myself was around $200. Good luck! It will work!!
@@ThePentUpAngler Thanks for the reply! I have experience working on cars and woodworking but I've never attempted a repair like this for my pop up. The quote I received was around $3,500 for the hours and parts. I think I'm going to take the boards off myself and make the repair. Worst case, I'll buy a new lid for it. Thanks again!
Hi I have a question for you. What's the thicknes of your plywood. I have to repaire the front and the back board of my pop up camper. I would like to buy the right things😉. Also, is the membrane glue to the presswood or not? Thank your video show me a lot.
Hi Tim, The original thickness of the plywood (presswood) was 1/2”. I decided to use 3/4” Luan plywood to replace it. The extra thickness added a lot of strength and was not at all heavier. I didn’t reapply the membrane on the inside of the camper, so this thickness gave me no trouble. (I have had some others comment that they prefer staying with the 1/2”). I think either works great. And yes, the membranes were glued to the wood. I used a chisel and a rotary sander to remove and smoothen. Hope yours comes out great! Happy camping ahead.
I do not believe you could replace the ceiling without taking the entire roof off. A two person job for sure, but can be done and replaced and put back on with a bit of hard work. I’ve seen other videos where they did this. Luckily I did not need to. Also, a new coating of Dicor rubberized paint on the roof top makes a huge difference. Well worth it. I applied 3 coats. Makes the camper more solid, no leaks, and looks like new. Hope you have good success. Gotta love pop-up campers!!
3 products: Master Seal NP 125 Adhesive Master Seal NP 1 Sealant Dicor Non-Leveling Caulk Also used Dicor Rubberized Paint after the job to give the entire roof a fresh covering and clean look. 2 coats. Very easy with a roller.
Mark, Another question. You mentioned that you skipped a couple of steps in the video. I know one of them was installing the side wall back onto the camper. Can you let me know how you acomplished that? Thanks again, Brent
Yes. When you re-attach the top metal railing onto the new side board (with the original fiberglass covering adhesed onto the new board), you will be ready to simply screw the side board/top metal railing into the side of the camper ceiling. Those screws and that part of the metal railing will then be covered with the rubber stripping to hide the screws. You will also screw the new side board into the camper ceiling at the corners (under the removed corner caps), along with a couple of metal brackets on the inside that help connect the ends. Lastly, you will have about 9 screws on top of the metal railing that will screw straight down into the side board from the top of the ceiling. One last metal bracket on the inside. Caulk the metal railing and re-attach new corner caps and you’re all set! When you start the side board re-attachment to the camper ceiling, start in the center of the camper and work your way out on each side. The side board and ceiling will conform to the slope it had before. Good luck! It will definitely all come back together real solidly!
@@ThePentUpAngler Thanks Mark, How were you able to lift and hold the side board to reattach? Did you have help? I am trying to figure out if I can do it solo because of Covid.
@@brenth1728 Solo. No problem. Can start the screws on the side board before lifting into place. Can then set the board in place up against the side ceiling and hold with one hand and use drill with other. Very easy and stable snd accurate. Once two or three screws are in, you are hands free again. If needed, the little plastic clamps I used also help in many instances.
www.forestriverinc.com/rvs/ I hope that helps. I had good success dealing directly with Forest River for parts and accessories. There are also other off-hand RV parts and accessory companies you can access with a Google search. Good luck!!
Good luck!! And I agree!… just a little more solid on the initial construction and the need for these repairs could be eliminated. Oh well, I love my pop up and it’s worth the fixing!! Hope yours comes out as good or better than new!
Hello. Thanks for the comment. I hope you have good success and the Jayco comes out as good as new. Just concluded a 10 day trip in mine. Working out very well! Thanks for watching.
Ha! I wish I had enough expertise to go into business. That was a one-time project for me… not bad for a tennis coach and fisherman. Well over 40 trips since and still better than new. Hope you get it done! Well worth it. Pop-ups are the best. Cheers and happy camping.
Hey Kevin, Yes I pushed a chisel between the wood and the skin. Had to be a bit careful also. The wood on my camper was very, very rotted, so it made for easier removal. Couple suggestions: 1. Maybe a sharper, wider chisel. This would help prevent the likelihood of punching through the skin I believe. I wish I had a chisel with a 3 or 4” head. 2. Use some sort of wood/glue dissolvent to help free the wood from the skin. I used a product called Goo Off. Small liquid bottle. It also helped clean up the rails. 3. Maybe some sort of sander might work. I used a sandpaper disc attached to the head of my hand drill. This worked great to clear off the last pieces of stubborn wood. Hope one of these helps. Good luck!
If your ceiling is solid (luckily mine had no rot and was very solid), you will have no issue with the weight of the AC unit. Just be sure to support the side walls with temporary blocks once you are working on the side walls and remove the corner post connections. I used 2x6” boards to hold it up. No problems. Just go slow and easy! Good luck.
Ha! I wish I was actually enough of an expert to say yes. It seems overwhelming at first, but actually fairly manageable if you just take your time and one step after another. As with most repairs, securing the proper products and tools about the most important part. Luckily this job doesn’t really require too much of either. Good luck!! Hope you have success. Happy Camping!
Our trailer has the same issue. The RV Service wants $4200.00 plus tax to do the same repairs. I would rather pay you to fix my trailer if you were willing.
Hi! Darn I wish I could do it, but I’m stuck with other work and travel at this time. I failed to mention in the video that I’m actually a tennis coach. Haha. Not sure I could pull off the same quality on a repeat job. Might have been beginner’s luck! Sorry about the camper, but yes!!… they should not charge that much. Any good carpenter should be able to do this job extremely well for $1,500. MAX!!! And maybe a good bit less. Sorry to not be of more help but hope the video will at least encourage next steps. My camper still better than ever after repair job and at least 20 solid trips!! Good luck and thanks for the comment.
Yes!! Just returned 3 hours ago from a 6 day trip. Zero issues and comfortable as can be. Not sure how to paste a picture or two… maybe will make a short RU-vid video just to show and update folks. The work and side walls proved to be better than new!!! Solid as can be. Thanks for watching.
@@ThePentUpAngler That's awesome! I'm starting on mine now and want to know how did you remove the metal brackets that are attached to the bottom part of the side panels? I'm having a really hard time
@@maryjuanarasta9220 Those bottom brackets should be attached by small screws under the bottom of the bracket (it was about 8 screws on my camper and easy to unscrew… and then re-install after the replacement board put in). There might also be some adhesive once the screws are removed… but easy enough to pull apart. The metal brackets can handle some pretty good stress if needed when pulling from the wood. Hope this helps and your project goes well ahead. Good luck. Happy to answer more if can.
HannaRv.com Hanna Trailer Supply Corner caps - set of 4 SKU # - 10R13P10R14P Fits Forest River, Rockwood and Flagstaff campers. Price was $39.99 The company has everything and is very helpful. Good luck!
David Sloane Ha! At this rate - due to labor costs - this camper will be worth $50,000! Actually a fun, tough project. Very happy it actually went back together and seems better than new! Knock on wood. Get ready for another trip soon!!
I just did the same sidewall on my 2008 Flagstaff popup. I said screw the wood and replaced the sideboard with an Azek PVC trim board I got at 84 Lumber for $100. Never rot, warp, etc. Was a little more work but its a permanent repair...I will post the link to my job in Popup portal. www.popupportal.com/threads/roof-sidewall-repair-2008-flagstaff-625d-here-i-go.132562/
Great idea and good info on your link. I’m hoping the double coat of urethane on top of the wood boards will seal it plenty well. And most importantly, not water entering at all. Much better so far after about 3 good trips. Thanks for the comment. Happy camping!
@@ThePentUpAngler cool it just so odd to see 1990 campers toren apart i have 1999 dutchmen popup camper still is in mint condushion execpt for refrigerator pilot light flame keeps stalling out no gas or co2 problem just hard to light so frigerator its not in use anymore
Yep. These days it’s probably more like $2,500! I get it though. Not the most fun. But glad to get it done and know the steps. Holding up perfectly a few years and many trips later.
I really need to get mine done but I'm super scared to do it by my self. I have zero experience on wood work. Wish I could find someone in the socal area to help.
Wishing you good luck. The job is well worth it. For what it’s worth, I’m a tennis coach. Any decent carpenter could do this and should really not charge much!! Good luck and Happy camping!
