Great way to remember.. I was just reading the Haynes which stated it was turning counter clockwise... Maybe they worked on a Australian version............
Can’t wait to hear her running, she’ll run like a sewing machine! Nothing better than a non interference engine especially when it’s a simple 8 valve with an incredibly simple cambelt. Thinking about that thermostat housing, my Grandad taught me that when undoing tight or suspect bolts to slightly undo one and then retighten it when tackling the others, his theory was that as you undo bolts it slightly increases the load taken by the other bolt/bolts which makes it harder to undo. He also would never just whizz a bolt out that had been fitted for a long time he would again remove it slowly tightening and retightening often with a squirt of WD40, this was especially true with screws going into aluminium. If this didn’t work he would apply heat. I have followed this advice and suffer very few issues so maybe there’s something in it?
Yes its good practice to do that... I tend to only use wd40 when it has time to soak.. but very often forget... I think I am getting the hang of feeling if its possible to loosen without preparation and when it is needed... but sometimes I get it wrong... and SNAP!
Vauxhall (so Opel/Holden/GMC) had something similar back in the late 60s/70s on the canted over OHC Victor (FD) engine. They used allen headed bolts in the cam followers with a specific taper ground into them. If you couldn’t get the correct clearance you could get different tapers to play allow the right setting to be achieved. Not sure if this engine uses the exact same method though. I didn’t have much experience of those GMC engines so can’t comment more than this. Les
Great work. Again, has been previously mentioned in the comments, the engine rotates clockwise. That leaking breather hose will cause the engine to run lean. Because of the PCV system, there is negative pressure in the crankcase, so it will suck air in. In addition, if you didn't already, make sure there is a tiny amount of RTV at the valve cover gasket joints or you'll develop an oil leak eventually.
Yea the haynes got me of track with the rotation... it states to tighten the pulley in the direction of the engine rotation (counter clockwise)... They must have gotten that wrong? or maybe its about where you look from... ;)
This job has escalated quite a bit. I'm in a similar situation with the rear brakes on my Mercedes-Benx C200. The Porsche will run beautifully once the engine is back in.
Good job so far - remember to position all hose clamps so you can undo them when the engine is in - or you will kick yourself several time (from experience!!)
That breather looked like an electical cable that was burning up with the way the smoke test was seeping out, but it could probably be replaced with some generic hose if the genuine stuff is expensive, cos porsche... :P
@11.45, I have always been told & have read that the timing belt writing should be readable from the front of the engine, your belts writing is facing away, some belts have direction arrows
I've got some 924 parts lying around somewhere. I'm going to dig out what's there and if i can help get your daily driver back running I'll send them from Scotland to Denmark. Not sure how that works now we're not European anymore but I'll dig out the stuff and see what's there anyway. I'm sure i have some water hoses and some brake hardware. Mission creep eh!
Dont like to have the engine open.. and also, I will be started and most likely also drive before I get a elbow... it is working now, but properly not for long. :)
How aggravating with tiny little plastic parts like that. That one could've been made from some potmetal and probably lasted a lot longer. Doesn't look like it should be impossible to mill a replica.
Hey man, jeg har efterhånden set dine videoer i en evighed. Pisse fed kanal. Jeg har et spørgsmål angående min kabinescooter som jeg håber du muligvis kan hjælpe mig med, eftersom at du ofte er i stand til at finde dele til forskellige biler osv. Jeg er ikke selv mekaniker, min eneste erfaring, er da jeg rodede med knallerter da jeg var yngre (Rensning af karburator og lignende) - Jeg har en kabinescooter, som er begyndt at lave en form for dunkelyd når jeg enten kører over bump, eller drejer i nogle sving. Jeg har prøvet at finde frem til problemet. Og jeg synes ikke at jeg kunne mærke noget slør i hjulene. Derimod, tror jeg at mit problem skyldes en slidt bøsning i baghjulsophænget. Jeg fik en kammerat til at skubbe scooteren fra side til side, mens jeg lå nedenunder, og hvis jeg presser op på ophænget, bliver lyden mindre udtalt. Udfra hvad jeg kan forstå, er sådan en bøsning omgivet af noget gummi, og jeg mistænker at det gummi måske er slidt op, såfremt det er bøsningen. Kan du kigge på den video jeg har uploadet på min youtube kanal, og se om du mener det kan være det som er galt? Og hvis det er, hvordan i alverden får jeg fat i en ny bøsning eller nyt gummi? Importøren af den kabinescooter er nemlig gået konkurs, så jeg kan ikke finde ud af hvordan faen jeg skal få fikset det :/.. Scooteren kaldes "climacar twister".. Der er andre scootere magen til, der går under navnet e-force x3 og fønix deluxe osv. men jeg ved at visse af disse importører laver om på specifikationerne på dem, hvor de giver dem en større motor eller lignende, før de sælger dem. Så jeg er i tvivl om, om de bruger de samme bøsninger. Videoen jeg har uploadet hedder "ryk" og er det seneste upload
Nå, det viser sig sgu at jeg var i stand til at stramme det endnu mere op, ved at en kammerat skubbede til den imens.. nu er lyden væk, og problemet er fikset.
