Porsche 944 - Engine Oil & Filter Change Tutorial 

Thanks Jer, I’m glad you’ve found them useful! The videos do involve quite a bit of work to do them right, but the end result is pretty cool. I have a few things in the works…

Thanks man! Maybe I should post my Venmo and CashApp at the end of each video to facilitate the reward? 🤣 No, but the hope is that people will learn something new and can pay it forward by sharing in automotive enthusiast experiences with others.

Thanks Quincy! Sounds like you’ve found the sweet spot for your region. 👍🏼

I have also been using Liqui Moly 5W-40 on my Porsche 944 S2 Cabriolet and Porsche 944 Coupe with Targa roof for years and I am very happy with it! I only go to southern Germany in the summer. NC944er makes really good videos and you can tell he works very conscientiously and cleanly.

Thanks Tim! I see your fleet is coming along nicely. The 924S looks so good with the stripes and red wheels! I’m a little behind where I’d like to be in progress on my one car, so I can’t imagine how you manage to keep three going. 😂 Cheers!

Nice! 👍🏼

Yeah, me either! 😂 It’s not well advertised or even listed on the product data sheet. I had to call their tech line to have them provide the levels. Thanks the comments, Cheers!

What do you guys think of a zddp additive? I just did an oil change and have a half a case of gtx on the shelf I’d like to use and nothing else takes 20w50. They’re $7-10 per treatment.

@@tims_4x4_garage Nothing wrong with using a good quality additive from what I’ve seen. If you can bump up that GTX by +200 zinc, good to go. And really considering the overall life of the car, a couple more oil change intervals with the GTX alone shouldn’t make or break anything at the end of the day.

@@NC944er groovy.

Yeah, it always makes me a little nervous waiting for it to start reading, but eventually it pops up. 😂

Yeah, Arizona gets quite a bit hotter than here in NC. I’ve tried the oil filter hole method in the past as well. It may have made a small difference for me, but still dumped some fluid, so I generally skip that optional step. It’s a preference for some folks though. In a pinch without a full set of tools, I’ve also used the “screwdriver stab through the side” method to loosen the filter and that was VERY messy. 🤣 But it got the filter off…

@@NC944er are you happy with your Lindsey racing mass airflow kit? Do you think it was worth the money? Or do you think it would’ve been better to get a rebuilt computer and rebuilt airflow system?

@@phillippasena1429 I like how it runs once it’s warmed up. It goes lean on initial throttle tip-in when it’s cold. This is something that others have reported and it seems like it has to do with the tune itself. I think the kit would be much more attractive if the price point were a bit lower, but what can’t be measured is how much more fun it makes the car when it’s dialed in. If I think about switching back to an AFM, I definitely don’t feel excited about the idea. Rebuilding the DME computer and replacing the AFM would increase reliability but wouldn’t necessarily add power like the MAF does.

@@NC944er thanks for the feedback, I’m still on the fence about getting the kit, if I go with the rebuilt computer and airflow, I’ll let you know how it feels. Also do you think you’ll ever do a video on replacing the motor mounts, that is next for me, I’m thinking about purchasing the transmission mount or transmission jack from Harbor freight, not sure if that is safe enough. Yes

@@phillippasena1429 My engine mounts were replaced a few years ago, so it’s not on the list at the moment. A regular floor jack and a piece of wood will do the trick… following the write-up on Clark’s Garage. Just swap out one mount at a time so the engine doesn’t shift side-to-side. It’s not too bad. Most recommend using the genuine Porsche part as the aftermarket ones don’t hold up well over time.

Nice! Yeah, I think it would be well suited to those uses. My understanding is the VR1 has slightly less detergent in the mix, so you’d just want to keep up on the oil changes, not to exceed 3,000 miles in between fluid replacements, which I’m sure you would follow anyway by the sounds of it. My local Porsche dealer actually uses the Mobile1 15w-50 in all their classic car services rather than the “Porsche Classic” oil, which is interesting. 😂 But yeah, the Mobile1 and VR1 are solid options, I’ve done a few changes now with VR1 and have no complaints. I also ran a cleaning treatment through the engine last year (Marvel Mystery Oil) and the oil appears to now be staying cleaner for longer periods. Haven’t sent samples off for analysis or anything, just anecdotal observations.

Yeah, my goal when I bought it was to get it up to 200k, but I haven’t had a lot of opportunity to drive it on the regular. I’ve added about 4,500 miles over 5 years.

Thanks! I have their gear oil in my transaxle now and it’s worked out well. I haven’t used the engine oil, but they make quality products in general. Just check the zinc level to ensure it’s up to par.

@@briangoodman5260 Yeah, you’ll find a few excerpts in the owner’s manual that mention, “It is normal for your engine to consume oil” and “Make a habit to check the oil level at every fuel filling,” so the cover flap acts as a reminder. The rate of consumption can vary quite a bit based upon speed of engine operation, oil quality/viscosity, climate, etc., but Porsche’s recommended limit is up to 1.5 liters per 1,000km (1.6 quarts per 620 miles). Consumption beyond that point indicates your engine would benefit from a rebuild (possible worn piston rings, valve guides and seals). It seems your figures are within specification for normal operation, just something to keep an eye on if you begin adding more miles between oil changes.

@@NC944er good to know, thank you! That's a pretty generous consumption guideline, esp. considering they are talking about the engine when new. Based on my limited experience as a first time Porsche owner, I think these engines are quite durable. My very experienced mechanic tells me he has never had to overhaul one (compared to many air-cooled engines he has had to rebuild.) Also, just changed my oil and added a quart of oil stabilizer from a well-known additive maker. Car now starts easier, idles smoother, and is noticeably quieter. We'll see if it has any effect on oil usage, but regardless, 944s are a blast to drive!

@@briangoodman5260 Yeah, I agree they are pretty robust engines when maintained, although long periods of neglect have been unkind to many examples, where various oil seals tend to need replacing. The timing belt is a weak point (short replacement interval) and the head gasket will eventually fail, but the piston rings and rod bearings tend to last well into 200k miles.

Hey David, thank you! My fuel pressure damper isn’t new, just a nicely conditioned older unit. Are you looking for the damper or the regulator? If damper, are you having any issue with yours or just want to refresh the appearance? The dampers are only available from Porsche with no aftermarket options, and they generally run about $600. I’m seeing a few different part numbers across the model years and it looks like the newer part is back-ordered, but certain vendors may have inventory. For part number: 944-110-201-03, it looks like eBay seller: dr911ca has a couple in stock.

@@NC944er Yeah, my '86 951 damper is toast. It went south about a year after I swapped the regulator from 2.5 to 3.0 bar, and also upgraded the Bosch injectors. So now if I am driving, or if my son drives while I stand 35 feet away, I hear a loud clack, clack, clack . . . sound that increases its repetition rate with RPM if the engine is under load - so the injectors are really passing fuel. I used an automotive stethoscope and probed around the engine to pinpoint the sound as my son locked the parking brake and started feathering the clutch while in reverse at 1500 RPM to load the engine. The regulator at the rear of the rail was surprisingly quiet, and the cam housing revealed 8 happy lifters and cam lobes softly ticking away, the injectors themselves were calmly ticking, but the sound from the front-mounted damper was deafening through the st'scope. Ironically, the engine is very strong across the entire RPM range, its just the sound at lower RPM when under load is g-d awful. When cruising at any speed or coasting to a stop, the clacking disappears as the injectors are barely operating. The operation of the injectors under load at 3 bar average causes significant 'hydraulic shock' that produces lots of noise without a proper fuel rail pressure damper. A new damper should eliminate all the racket so I can once again hear the sweet sound of the 944 engine. I would love to know the difference in the original part and the newer one - higher reliability at 3 bar?

@@davidrsmith2417 Nice diagnosis there with the stethoscope! I’ve listened to my damper the same way and it does make some ticking noise, but it’s on par with the level coming from the injectors, definitely not louder. I guess the diaphragm inside yours has failed, don’t think that’s super common. It looks like the part number that ends in 04 was superseded to 07, the 03 one indicates it’s compatible with all model years and interchangeable with the 06 one. 😂 I can’t with Porsche and their numbers sometimes. The Bosch part number should be stamped on yours and that would be definitive. Mine is 0280161015, and searching that reveals that Bosch is the root cause of the shortage. Some of these older parts they only do a production run once or twice a year. I’m seeing a pre-owned unit available here - www.fuelinjectionproducts.com/products/porsche-fuel-pressure-damper-bosch-0280161015-fits-924-944

My 951 came with a 2.5 bar regulator and matching damper. I am trying to source a working damper, preferably new, that is designed for a nominal fuel pressure of 3 bar. This would be an optimal damper. Failing that I will aim to buy a Bosch damper for a 2.5 bar system.

Hey, thank you! In the case of zinc additives, more isn’t necessarily better once a certain level is reached. A good target level to shoot for is around 1200ppm zinc, as that’s what was commonly found in oils of the period. My car does have the catalytic converter installed, but the warnings we sometimes see on these high zinc oils are essentially to prevent people from using them in “modern” cars where the zinc isn’t needed, as they can poison the catalyst if the engine is burning oil. While the Motul option seems to be a fine oil, the benefit from its extra zinc over the Valvoline would probably be indiscernible, and the Valvoline is readily available at local auto parts stores, so it’s a little easier to track down when more is needed, which is why I ultimately went with that option.

Thank you for answering my question.

Thanks! I usually get my filters from Pelican Parts - www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/94410720109.htm?pn=944-107-201-09-OEM&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkruVBhCHARIsACVIiOwvCLmBPWssPMzdK5gxKjY7k2K5t0r-7iNM9uuOMAxjH0syLlM_lTsaAgAGEALw_wcB

Ha! That was one influential factor in me selecting an NA. The Turbo cars are quite a bit more fun though when they’re up and running well, so it’s a trade off. 😂

As I was looking I tried to avoid the Turbo, even though it was very tempting!

Thanks Ross! Yes, those numbers fall right within normal range for these cars. Oil pressure should be between 4-5 bar at cold start and when under load. Once the car is warmed up and at idle, oil pressure should sit between 2-3 bar.

@@NC944er Thanks again. Your videos are a great resource for the 944 community. 😊

Hey! Yeah, the OEM ones should have a small magnet on the inside to collect any metal shavings in the oil. Assuming somebody replaced mine somewhere along the way. I may add one to my next order as they’re only about $10. Thanks for the reminder. 👍🏼

Hey Robert! From my research, the “racing” term is somewhat loosely applied here and it depends on what you’re putting it in and using it for. I called Valvoline on that one and was told to change the oil every 500 miles if being used in a true racing/track setting. They said the grey-bottle VR1 oil can be used on street-legal sports cars for up to 3,000 Miles between oil change intervals. I’m on my second oil change with VR1 and I feel like my engine got louder within 500 miles after the first change. I may switch to the Mobile1 next time, as my local Porsche dealer said they use Mobile1 for all their classic car services, even over the Porsche Classic branded oil, which is kind of funny. 😂

@@NC944er Thank you for thorough answer. I used Redline 5W50 which stopped engine to burn oil, but I got a bit of metal glitter in the oil after losing oil pressure for a moment, don't know if that is coincidence, now I switched back to Mobil 5W50 FS X1 after replacing bearings, but it's much less viscous(lower boundary of SAE50) and has less zinc(1100ppm) and my 944S2 started drinking oil again. Now I look for a replacement, Penrite 10 Tenths Premium 5W50 PAO/Ester with 1800ppm zinc is one option, the other is Motul 300V 5W50, the tech support of Motul told me it has 1000-1200ppm of zinc, don't know if that is true. I'm bit stuck. It's much easier to select something if you are in the hotter climate, but half of the year is quite cold where I live.

@@8359s When I talked to Motul, the rep seemed a little fast and loose with the technical information, I haven’t yet tried their products. Not sure if the Porsche Classic 10w-50 would work for your area. The 10w would be good down to -25°C or -13°F. Plus then you could put Porsche’s super cool transaxle car oil can on display. 😂

@@NC944er Thanks I couldn't find oil analysis on Porsche's 10W50(it's borderline fine for my climate, it only drops under 25 once every few years, please let us know what oil you'll decide to use, thank you very much :).

@@8359s Yeah, they are tightlipped on the blend specifications. I called and emailed Porsche a bunch of times and kept getting responses like “it’s proprietary.”

Yeah, mainly for engines with solid or flat-tappet lifters.

@@NC944er Oh. So I guess that I'm safe with the oil that I use now as most of my cars have hydraulic lifters that share part numbers with the ones used on the more modern engines.

@@MihaiGradin What are you using now? The hydraulic lifter setup has some flexibility over a true solid mechanical lifter, where a much higher level of zinc would be recommended. The 944 lifters do have flat surfaces with direct cam contact, so a zinc level of 1,000-1,200ppm is beneficial for protecting the metal surfaces, but wouldn’t require anything as high as say the 1,800ppm seen in the Motul oil.

@@NC944er Right now I use Ravenol VST 5W-40 for my German made engines and I've been pretty pleased with the oil's performance during warm and cold weather and it also made the engine slightly quieter. From what I know the spec sheet for the oil doesn't mention the zinc levels or maybe I haven't found the right file.

@@MihaiGradin Yeah, that’s a nice mid-grade for both warm and cold weather performance. I’m not seeing a product data sheet on the Ravenol website where a zinc level would be listed. It’s often not published or released unless you call the manufacturer. I did find this independent fluid test performed by Polaris Laboratories, indicating that particular oil variant has 990ppm zinc - bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/voa-ravenol-vollsynth-turbo-vst-5w40.272046/

Yep, there are certainly some differences based on climate/region. Thanks for sharing! 👍🏼

Thanks Summer! I’m pretty happy with the existing lighting solutions on the car though, but I appreciate the offer. 👍🏼

Hey Fred! Unfortunately I am a project manager for a living, 😂 but I was formerly a technical trainer and that’s probably the role I’ve most excelled at in life. I have done a few one-off repairs for other 944 owners in North Carolina where I live, but it’s not my daily gig.