In this video I go through checking causes for low compression and misfires on bank1, it was a timely case study but finally found the root cause and was able to fix the issue.
Because of the squeaking noise that I was hearing and I think those would make the sounds squeaky just a squeaking noise alone letting me know what's the issue you can switch those stuff around you could have blocked off the vacuum so don't get no vacuum and go back and check if the vacuum is still high because that one when you deal with the front with the electrical black tape that was a bad way of testing it in this case of this situation but I still with a go the manual way just a hint
Great work on sticking with this to the end. Thanks for taking us along. It's like I was right their with you as you talked it out. I first saw your post on the Diag Network and have been looking for your channel! I have just started into using a scope for diag and this is all really good stuff.
Thanks Martin, hope you enjoyed it. This one did take me for a wild ride thats for sure. Glad to hear you getting into using the scope, stick to it and it will make a world of difference when doing diagnostics
Excellent work, I am currently experiencing the same issue, struggling with misfires on bank 1 for over a year, changed plugs, new coils new sensors.. etc to no avail. I've had countless misdiagnosis from many mechanics for the same issue, your video really opened up my eyes. Your diagnostics capabilities are instrumental and your troubleshooting logic is systematic and persistent (as a true professional in your field should be). Thank you for sharing how to troubleshoot this problem the correct way.
Thank you Gianfranco... I had a tough time with this one, but persistence is the key to these trouble cars and also being educated on how the systems work in general and then informing yourself with the specifics of each system make up is also critical. I hear to many stories like yours of misdiagnosis all the time, but I hope maybe this will help with your trouble you have been dealing with. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and thank you for watching.
Absolutely stellar video. Thank you very much for your first hand views, comments, and thoughts! I am dealing with this exact issue and I truly appreciate your dedication and effort to show the processs!
I've got the same issue exactly bank 1 psm failure, but also p0016 timing off now. I'm wondering if its this or the chain. Been a huge mystery for months.
@DTEAuto is it possible my bank 1 camshaft adjuster solenoid could cause misfire in all bank 1 cylindrs as well as p0016 code to be given? I'm wondering if this is timing chain or could be that valve lift camshaft adjuster solenoid. Thanks.
Great job. I’ll be doing this on my 958 passenger side as well. I was told pulling back the passenger fender liner helps to remove the pump. Thanks again.
Hey Sadel, great diagnosis. Definitely a head scratcher for sure. I love your thought process as you go through the wave forms and break down the analysis. See you on DN.
I dont use to watch videos of more of 20 min but you are so profesional, thank you this really help me a lot, im trying to figure out about a 05 cayenne S, ticking in the engine, i dont know if a kind of injector/sensor can cause that, it have a lot of codes of crank/shaft, purge valve, lets do it!! 💪🏽🙏🏽 i hope get it with out spend a lot because im a person humble, i sell cars and now i get the oportunity to get one cheap but misfiring
Hey Mario, from what I can recall, I assume that it wasn't easily accessible , and I state it that way because I cant remember clearly as it was filmed over a year ago, but I do hope you enjoyed it and thanks
Sadel, Appreciate you sharing the details of this misfire case. Interesting how an entire bank issue shows up as single misfire that can you send you off in a particular direction for sure. I often see people going directly to a relative compression test first just to rule out mechanicals and that would have been beneficial here but to each's own I always say. I noticed your not using the WPS from Pico could I ask what you are using for your in-cylinder pressure measurements? Keep up the great work I look forward to seeing more.
Douglas, Thanks for the comment. And yes I totally agree with you on doing relative compression right off the bat anytime there seems to be a "misfire" issue at hand. But this one I got side tracked because I could hear the high breathing noise from the high vacuum in the crankcase as soon as it was dropped off, with other makes ,if the crankcase has too much vacuum it'll cause the misfires to occur, which is why I got stuck chasing that, but once I realized I couldn't find anything with that issue is where I went back to the misfire and relative compression and so on. I never re-checked crankcase psi after it was fixed, I always wonder if the valve lift issue was causing what I felt was high vacuum in the crankcase. And yes, its odd and kinda dumb for this particular model and software to "randomly" pick one cylinder only to show misfire counter climb when the whole bank is not running well. I don't own a wps, I have gotten by for years using the snap on 100psi/500psi and along with that the ATS 300psi and minus 30hg. Glad you enjoyed
@@DTEAuto Thanks Sadel for the reply. Improper crankcase pressure can certainly cause issues like you were seeing so I can understand your initial direction and yea in hindsight it would have been great to see if the "high" crankcase vacuum was caused by the faulty lift solenoid but job demands often hinder a complete root cause understanding. Thanks again for sharing. I also saw you on DN and I'm glad I found your channel
@@DTEAuto what t is the proper amount/normal of vacuum for that engine because I have seen normal most vehicles about 10 inches of water, some bmw at 20 inches of water , that is about a quarter of an ing hg , but you had about 2.5 in hg that is crazy amount of vacuum , did you measure it after you were done to rule out good on that engine configuration?
Hi guys, i have a issue with Bank 1. I have rough idle, car starts "slower" than normal, misfires on Cylinder 1 & a PSM, AWD & Start-Stop Failure dash lights too. The Fault Code is P0344 (Cam sensor intermittent) Got a new cam sensor, new battery, fresh oil change, new coils & spark plugs (wanted to refresh this stuff anyways) but still this code comes up after i delete it. Whats a bit annoying - if i start the car (Panamera 4s 970) the crank sensor shows only a short time reading the camshaft position and then goes to 0 degrees. But when i took it for a drive and let the Scan tool on the readings stsrt to come sometimes at round about 2000 rpm I also checked the tone ring on the Camshaft thru the Sensor hole. It looked fine and not damaged. Also the bolts on the adjuster looked good since many people had problems with that. Im literally stuck right now. Can a bad or dirty Solenoid could bring up faults like this?! I inspected the old oil and filter after the oil change and they looked very old and not that good. Hopefully someone have any kind of advice for me. I hope to get it sorted & would report here my next steps. Thanks for your time and sorry for my bad english 😅
Really enjoyed watching this. My CS 4.8ltr also has very strong vacuum - I think it is normal. I am interested to get your feedback on the Cylinder Roughness measurements you are seeing ~9:37. I notice your values run between -30.00 uS to 30.00 uS. Using an iCarSoft POR2.0 scanner mine reports wild fluctuations on all cylinders between 0.0 uS and 1024001737.62 uS. How meaningful are these values?
it is hard to say because most manufacturers don't usually give out a spec for those running values, as I believe I heard one time that the reason is they don't want to be tied down to a specific number, when even on good running vehicle the numbers could sway a lot. They are meaningful when you actually have a miss that you can feel and want to try and identify an offending cylinder so pull up the data for all and just simply look for one that is way different than the rest. And then hopefully you can find the non-contributing cylinder. Hope this helps
If you are willing to do the work of still possibly needing to remove it to replace it at the end of trying it again after cleaning. Maybe clean it and re-install it in the opposite bank and see how it affects the drivability then
Hi sadel. I know this an old video. Do you know if the Autel Im608 can code rear end electronics (BCM) for Porsche Cayenne 2011. Awaiting your feed back
Forgive my ignorance. But this car runs just like my car-expect for the squeaking sound- no check engine lights or messages on my PCM, however idles kinda irregularly ( feels like very minor jitters) specially when cold. I am kinda worried now. My car is 2013 at 80k miles. The dealer never flagged this issue to me while doing the maintenance on it.. I am afraid they where dodging a repair while the car was under extended warranty. How can I diagnose this to be sure? Thanks for the great video
Zy H, first there would have to be some sort of error message to be flagged in order to have some sort of direction to look for. If it feels like it's idling funny, but no light has come on for any issue such as misfires, it would be hard to say where to start or what to do. Only thing that can think of is possible "dirty fuel" .... try to burn that out and fill up from different station with good quality. But without any diagnostic trouble codes it's hard to say.
I have a 2013 GTS. The car would idle REAL rough like it was about to stall, but doesn't stall, just idles rough. When I give it gas, it runs just fine. Coming to a stop, as I slow down at a red light, again it would get rough at idle. Scanned it with the Durametric scanner and it gave me codes: P0301, P0302, P0300, P1361/62/63 (VALVE LIFT CONTROL INVALID SIGNAL CYLINDERS 2, 3 AND 4) . Took it to a shop they said it was cylinder 3 injector, they changed it. Said it needed a DME Reflash/Relearn from the dealership. I took it to the dealership and they said it was injector 3 as well. I asked them to reflash the DME, they did and nothing. Im starting to think its the VVT Solenoid like you said here. My fuel economy dropped to 15MPG as well.
have you inspected for vacuum leaks? and yes it is possible that it could be the solenoid valve as well, for some reason it makes it run rough and display misfire codes when it is faulty
Hey Thanks a lot for sharing , i know this video ia very old , i have very similar issue, and i wanted to confirm if your issue was solved with the back selonids ? I have same vaccum and sound when i try to open the oil cap and i almost changed everything you spoke about AOS , coils , spark plugs etc but not the selonids
@@DTEAuto i see. i have a constant misfire on cylinder 2 and white smoke: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Y7XiWSxHjTQ.html changed coil/spark plug, but still the same misfire and white smoke...
Hello The check engine light doesn't start, but it shakes in idle, when I check with diagnostics, it comes out with error P0303 and U0199. And with other diagnostics, it comes out with code P1001, can you help me, thank you
Start by trying to see if the shake at idle is from actual misfire and from cyl3. Move coil from cyl3 to a different cylinder and re-scan to see if code switches cylinder.
The issue was the solenoid for variable lift that's located at the rear of the cylinder head, the part I got from the factory, installed the new one and no more misfire problems
