It's interesting to see and read the comments on this saw. When I started building my house and contracting, I bought one of these. It still runs and cuts. I have had trouble replacing the bronze washer/clutch that holds the blade tight. Thanks for posting.
Definitely my favorite saw, bought one new 1985. The top handle offers some carpentry benefits that other “builder’s” saws do not. Not as great as a framer’s saw, or general construction saw, but if you had a sawboss and this you didn’t need any other handheld circular saw to be a topnotch finish guy.
These are great saws. In fact they are better than many jobsite table saws! Where I run in to grief is with the 'new' thin curf blades. The as is clutch with brass surface refuses to get a purchase on the blade. I fabricated a shim. And good to go, but see if the framing guide aligns. I still have some old thick blades. Carbide was an expensive new thing the year I bought my unit. (Buck a tooth) The blade was thick, hence the clutch setting. Of note, in those days a carbide tooth would commonly fly off like a bullet. At least trips to the blade sharpener eased off. That saw is from a time warp. Very early in the double insulated development. 1980! Mine still runs. Chris
Yup, plugged in the venerable unit and it goes. One thing about this version is how nice the guard works. Other saws, except for the Ingersoll Rand's pushed the work away. I also have a couple of years newer version with the back handle. The shoe is considerably smaller. PC missed the boat on that shoe. It is 4 3/4" to the blade wide side and 1 11/16" on the narrow side. Milwaukee got it right 1 1/2" narrow and 5 3/8" wide. I still prefer drop table saws to hinge shoe units I finished of my carpentry career with a pair of drop table Milwaukees. I worked a lot of rough sawn and an 8 1/4" saw made since. I got tired of switching up ergonomics, so went for a matching 7 1/4. I can not believe what I have put them through. In fact I just made a series of rips with the 8 1/4's blade buried in fresh ash I milled yesterday with a chainsaw mill. Over the years the Porter Cables came out when nice cedar siding jobs came along. The guard rules. Other guys where doing the time honored trick of jamming a wedge to keep the gard open. With a Freud 40 tooth blade , even cedar shakes can be cut. There are times when a knief and a plane get old. I am glad to see some one is lucky enough to have on, and that they got it TLC! Chris
@@christophergallagher531 Hi seems like you re familiar with the 368-1 type 2, I have one that still runs well, would you know someone that might be interested in this old work horse, Thanks.
Hi seems like you re familiar with the 368-1 type 2, I have one that still runs well, would you know someone that might be interested in this old work horse, Thanks.
How does one change the blade on this? I hold the blade still, spin the bolt and it spins and spins and never comes off or loosens at all. Does the jackshaft have to be held still with a special wrench? Or is there another secret ?
Lots of things had grease caps years ago. PC sold a deticated grease ( I still have some) One simply fills the cap (cup) and put it gently back on. The cap is a reservoir. Once in a while tighten the cap 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. I usually did this while the saw was warm. Say, during long rips, like vally rafters. Too much grease in a case can be bad. I never had a problem. I switched to a Milwaukee in the early 90s. Grear saw too. I did get a back handle PC, which I prefer for sheet work. Same problem with the clutch. Love em thanks Chris
It’s called a drop foot design.The original model was a porter cable. Rockwell owned PC since the 60’s , and delta as well. The model original came out in 50s. Mine is badged Rockwell and porter cable, mine is from late 60’s early 70s polished aluminum body style. Use 2 wrenches for blade change and special arbor nut ( allows blade to slip preventing kick back) Skil also used the drop foot design as well on some of their circular saws. I have a 10” skil circular saw( made sometime in the 70s) that has same design. Where the corded exited tool was also in a unique location, on the side and not back of handle like most circular saw. Seem the have less accidental cord cutting with these saws as well
@@maxfedor1 around here we call it a drop shoe design. I never had a problem, but some say they like the hinge shoe for long compound miters , like for hip rafters. By the '80s Skill side winders blew up routinely. The worm drives where still bullet proof. The PC clutch became a PIA with modern thin curf blades. Made a shim and still use mine. Chris
I just remembered using an old PC. The guard was a strang thing you flipped and the hight adjustment was a screw afair. It belonged to a friend who got it from his dad who was a movie set carpenter. Never saw another like it. It still runs last I heard.
Special arbor nut as well for this saw. Allows blade to slip preventing kickbacks. And like other poster said need 2 wrenches and one of them is rather large spanner
By “arbor” are you all referring to the jackshaft / star looking washer under the bolt? Cause definitely nothing happens when you spin the bolt with one wrench and blade held still.
Hi Good video I have one that I would like to sell if you know anyone let me know ,I just took it out of storage it runs it's a work horse, asking $25 plus shipping I am in NYC
