POV: FBO UPGRADED TURBO 2023 CIVIC TYPE R 

SAME!

@@100GRANDNATE We outside!

Haven’t gotten dyno’d yet but the car should be in the 400s

2:15 I think he pushes it.

did you watch the video?

@@sickhcivc yes, I think its just new cars in general. they're very refined to the point that it results in much more subtle acoustics. dont think im a hater i have a 23 si the honda platform is just quite.

Lag is present, but it's not as noticeable as in the RV6, and PRL turbos. The lag isn't terrible though. I daily drive my car, I’m in love with it.

The stock internals can handle my current setup, since it's torque, not horsepower, that poses issues. There are 500-600whp Type Rs running on stock internals.

For a conservative estimate, I'd say high 300s to low 400s, considering these cars' ability to handle a lot of stress before needing to build the motor.

575nm if you keep the boost at low RPM low. Otherwise that torque would kill the rods fast. But tuning isn't the issue... The open-deck-construction lets the cylinders swing, tearing the head-gasket apart. Lowest failure (with oem ecu) was 40k km, thats 25k miles... Big Problem is, that the Motor runs smoth with worn head-gasket & even with cracked cylinders. No white smoke like Focus RS III etc. Here are the symptoms how detect the damage: 1st exhaust smell of coolant / positive RELD-Test / pressure on coolant-tank after night. 2nd small coolant consumption 3rd temporary-overheat-warning of ecu because of exhaust-bubble @ temp-sensor If u keep on driving, the cylinders crack. Even with cracked cylinders the TypeR drives fine. But if u drive on, the head will break finally. In germany a lot was tried (honda uses the shortblock from FK2R till FL5 unchanged), but an upgradet gasket & arp-studs didn't help. Usually the cylinders crack until the upgrade gasket fails too. Only a closed-deck-mod or of course sleeves will avoid swinging cylinders. The weakness of the Block isn't quite famous outside germany. Maybe because we are running quite some K20C1 in FK2R from 2015 on & they are driven longer with high loads. Who else can drive 160+mph for hours... But i heard, spain reported some FK8-gasket-failures lately.

@@gt-r9035 Will aftermarket rods from the start of the build avoid cracked cylinders? Or is the block the main problem?

@@HumberStudent didn't got the question right 1st time... The open-deck-construction is the problem, not the rods. Forged rods will prevent bending / breaking on high-torque at low RPM custom maps. Closed-deck-mod or sleeves only prevent shaking cylinders...

@@gt-r9035 Either way this is a lot of work for the novice car guy. My original question was how much can this FL5 handle with simple boltons and a custom tune without engine failure. Using pump gas or petrol for you Europeans. I enjoy cars but I love reliability.

Yes, the car has a custom 93 tune from Anonymous performance K20C1.

I'd say it's because you can barely put the stock power down with wheel slip.

Should I?🤷🏻‍♂️🤔

@@FL5ghostit’s useless and just adds extra complication for nothing. Causes more issues than anything. It’s a gimmick.

​@@Reptilianoverlord-jc8mt🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

@@Reptilianoverlord-jc8mt Doesn't even know..

It’s a 10k difference. Not too bad

@@SIIKAP1 true, but 10 k is 10k lmao for virtually similar performance. The type R will destroy the N on a track but when it comes to everyday driving I’m not gonna carve corners to get a Big Mac lol, plus the N has a valve exhaust stock

@@ItsYaBoyMj2x then get the N. I chose the R because to me, it looks better, it has hatchback utility, the shifter and seats feel better, and the resale value and reliability are likely to be better. If acceleration was my primary buying factor, I’d have gotten a Mustang GT for a similar price. The R has a stock valved exhaust as well, but no burble tune like the N.

@@SIIKAP1 both are very practical for everyday living, I personally don’t need a hot hatch in terms of trunk space. I agree the shifter, reliability, and resale is leagues better in the R. If the R wasn’t marked up it would be no competition here. But you can get an N for under msrp stock which is closer to the 26-7k mark, a stage 1 tune can beat the 5.0 and THAT is why I’m conflicted

@@SIIKAP1 both are very practical for everyday living, I personally don’t need a hot hatch in terms of trunk space. I agree the shifter, reliability, and resale is leagues better in the R. If the R wasn’t marked up it would be no competition here. But you can get an N for under msrp stock which is closer to the 26-7k mark, a downpipe + high pressure fuel pump will beat 5.0s and v8 m3s. (I can link those videos if you need proof) For 10k less you get a better sounding valve exhaust with the ability to turn off the burbles if you prefer the Dyson air blade sound of the R.

L comment

And you drive a Prius so go play some more Forza/GT kid

They are modding civics in 7 sec 1/4 mile....they are out running supercars...😂😂😂

You do know that Civic is just a name, right?