POV RAW CLIPS HECTIC BEAT DOWNS AT A DANGEROUS SLAB RILEYS 

Dude, love the POV! That's seriously the most treacherous undertow I've ever seen as longtime lifeguard, wow! Props my friend, and keep them coming!!! You guys are brave souls indeed!

@Samm Salvey think he is referring to the draw of the wave off the reef, and how the sets are pushing whitewater back out the back after they slam the reef. I would assume you could get hammered on the take off and be pulled/sent right out the back into the next set.

Can't tell you how great it is to get this perspective--just how gnarly, scary and sometime simply unmakeable it can be. Even for the likes of NF! Seriously, thanks so much

wise descision got to know when to hold-em and when to fold- em :D

You know it's scary whenever Mr. Florence is surfing

@@chriscobey3565lol

Neither will I be there. That wave is so agressive for me.

..ears get sore just watching..freezing cold

It's like chopes little brother but freezing cold

Every single time...

@@monicacampbell4600I prefer Egbert

@@randompuntur It sure makes me feel like an Egbert!!!

EGBERT. SINGLE. TIME.

@@IambiguousSegment get the tshirts going, love this line 😆

Funny. It's all relative to each surfer's individual experience yet the sentiments are the same. Those holy sht moments just come to each of us at different levels. That's it.

I appreciate that!!

Beachgrit captions are bizaaarrooo 😂

@@NathanFlorence oMg the sexy married onlyfans star replied to me, fangirling hard here

Or at 9:41, he wipes out but ends up behind the wave.

Its a matter of pulling off early enough. Notice he started to pull back before the wave reached him, if he'd given it just 1 or 2 more paddles he woulda been over.

@@jamescoyle9712 happens a lot going over the falls, surprisingly, looks super dramatic but actually really mellow

Always watch a spot until you see the currents, especially after sets. The foam movement and the lack of foam over deeper water (possible rip) is usually clear. You can and must always spot the rips, that's the only reason you can't paddle in. The only current you can't see is the one beyond the breakers, but always line up two markers as soon as you get out and you become aware of it instantly. I once got caught in one which almost took me past the beach to miles of rocky shore. I was reluctant to paddle miles especially because the coast had seals and sharks so I tried spending 5 minutes paddling against it. Luckily for me it wasn't constant strength (which is probably how it got me in the first place) and I was able to paddle against it far enough to aim at the beach.

@@greatbriton8425 glad you were able to escape, who knows what would have happened. And thanks for the explanation, will keep in mind next time I go surfing

@@copycruel You're welcome. Another good reason for watching an unfamiliar break for a while is to see where the waves are breaking. It is common for there to be 2 swells of different sizes and periods and directions, and this creates a complex pattern which recurs within 3-7 minutes, and affects where the waves peak and how fast they go down the line. Using this info you can not only pick a quieter time to paddle out, you can also know where to sit and which waves you want to catch. It's not foolproof because the swells can change over a short time*, and will often change in hours, and there may be a 3rd or 4th swell which is hard to spot, but it is very helpful to have at least an idea in your head of the best waves to look for. (I once was in a small all-rocky bay on the West coast of South Africa with 3-4 foot waves, which, after half an hour, jumped 6 inches in size with every set, to reach 14 foot in 10 minutes - never seen anything like it. One of my friends got stuck out there, too scared to catch them on his short board because they were really strong. In the end he managed, wiped out, but came in okay).

@@greatbriton8425 Hey I just wanna say thanks for taking the time to write this out. I don’t surf, or really go in the ocean any more (was pulled out and almost drowned in a tidal undertow, caused by a hurricane 1.5 days off-coast). But I have a 6-month-old son, and I don’t want him to be too afraid to go in the ocean. This kind of knowledge helps me feel like I can teach him what to look out for, and survive myself if I ever get caught in a bad situation again. I’m a strong swimmer, just traumatized, I was 11 at the time of my incident. But I want to know I can swim out to save my boy and have a chance of bringing us back in.

@@baTonkaTruck Gosh that's an incredible story. Thank God you survived. I recall leaving more detailed comments for people, let me see if I can find them, they may have more info for you.