I am near 60 and have never had a booster fail ever and I have driven some of my vehicles since new for over 200k miles but I have a budy that has a problem with his so that is why I am here looking at the decent info you have provided. Thanks!
This is the best informative video on this subject 🙌 thanks a lot, it will help hundreds of classic Mustang owners not to screw up with the PBB selection.
Awesome video. I just started to go down this rabbit hole this morning on my ‘67 Cougar. I was trying to figure out why 3 different looking boosters were coming up on my searches on various auto parts store websites. I’m getting the wooosh sound every time the brake pedal is pressed down and it’s actually shutting off the car if I press down too hard and too long.
I wish you guys delt with early 1970's thunderbirds. I have had many of the same frustrations concerning brake boosters. Finally found a guy to rebuild mine. After 3 months of dealing with cardone
I got a cardone power booster for my 1969 tbird. It works fine. Not saying everything is great, guess it all depends on whos working on it. I also had my original one rebuilt by them. It looks great. My only problem is the lack of the right check valve for the tilt away steering
Great video! When I was building my 67 Mustang I found a 67 cougar in a you pull it junkyard, I got a lot of good parts for my car including center console and the dynamite 🧨 taillights ( mine is a Shelby clone so I need sequential)
you might wanna mention that you have to modify the brake switch (bt removing material) if you use the 69 in a 67/68 due to the increased material thickness at the end of the shaft's teardrop
Great info..... Thank you. Dad & I are currently working on another "restored" car. 1970 XR7 with a Midland booster. I'm telling the guy the booster is no good. I did a vacuum test....no good. He's saying he just replaced there booster....wellllll.... Now I know why it's bad. Love this video. EVERY "restored" car we deal with has the same story. Body work is nice but the car is a mechanical nightmare. These guys spend $15k on a car that requires another $3k in mechanical work. Uggggh
Thanks for the info. Very good video. I restore older Mustangs and get frustrated with the lousy, cheap, non-fitting parts that are available now. Seems everything is made in China and either doesn't fit, fits poorly or wears out very fast. Parts store employees cannot perform an interchange or look up a part without the computer at their fingertips. You can no longer depend on the parts suppliers for quality fit and function in restoring these older cars..
We just today got in 6 ebay specials by Cardone, all from the same supplier, all under $150 each all with the same part # on box which was supposed to be for 1970 Mustang / Cougar. None had the spacer plate, 2 had the 69 tear-drop input shaft and one had the wrong bolt pattern. Good thing we just buy them to replenish our cores and our expectations are low...
Didn't see anything about a 73 booster mentioned. Things changed from 70 to 71 on mustangs. I just wasted 18 minutes trying to learn what else might fit a 73 mustang. THANKS!!!
I wish you could make a video on how to rebuilt a original Midland-Booster with the repair-kit you offer for us peeps around the world doing it by themselves !! ☝🏼🙈🤪😎🍀😉
Hehe, great information, except... my 1970 Cougar XR7, with 4-wheel drums, has an original "midland" booster with the teardrop shaft, exactly like the 1967 version you show. So apparently they *did* use that booster in 1970 :).
On a daily driver Ford V8, the booster diaphragm first lasted 20 years from new, then 14 years after a rebuild. On its 2nd rebuild now. Depends on who rebuilds them, I guess.
Thanks Don - This is a very informative video. I subscribed to your channel and look forward the checking out your other videos and parts catalog. Happy Trails!
I bought a 70 Bendix for my mustang and it has a straight eyelet. Which works fine for a factory set up. But I now have all aftermarket brake pedal and hanger due to restoring the car which didn't have any parts when purchased. So I bought a factory booster like you show here which has a straight eyelet. However, I need the one where the eyelet is off-center as my brake piece that connects will not line up with a straight eyelet. Thank you for the great information. Hope you can help me find the right eyelet. Or tell me if I need to find a different booster.
The one you need is this one: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/16897/30966/brake-booster-midland-power-brake-premium-rebuilt-1966-1967-ford-fairlane-/-ranchero-/-cyclone-/-torino.html Unfortunately, we do not have any, and we usually could have you send us yours and send it in to be rebuilt, but the rebuilder lost some staff and is not currently able to rebuild boosters. If you hit the notify button on our website, we will email you if they become available again.
My brother did a drum to disc conversion on his 69 Torino and now he barely touches the brakes and it like totally slams the brakes hard, locks up bad. Rendering it undriveable.
Why do some booster say for automatic transmission? Why does it matter what kind of a transmission you have? How is it linked to the transmission, if it is?
Have this question at the moment with my 70 auto fastback. From what I can tell, manual transmission has the 8" double diaphragm booster because of clearance issues with the clutch pedal linkage. The auto doesn't have the linkage so uses a 9" single diaphragm. Think this is right, I'm still trying to confirm.
Question: what would you charge for a 67-68 Mustang booster for my 68 Mustang GT. Because I’m tired of buying junk booster from our local parts store. 😢😡😢
The ones you can get from most auto parts stores is a cheap economy version. We are currently out stock on our good new ones and our rebuilt ones as well. However, you can use our product notification system to get notified when we get them back in stock. Here are the boosters we usually stock: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?CatID=15894&SearchTerms=brake%20booster%20power&Type=EXACT. We also have rebuild kits if you can source an original: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/control-valve-repair-kit-repro-1969-1970-mercury-cougar-/-1969-1970-ford-mustang.html
I was told to paint my booster before install because the black paint it comes with will come off and rust, is that true? I rather just install it and just wipe it down whenever I wash my car.
It might not be a bad idea to paint it before installing. We have not specifically heard of that issue, but the company that rebuilds these changed hands and the quality has been inconsistent.
There has been quite a bit of discussion regarding Wilwood brake conversions over at the Classic Cougar Forums, I would recommend checking that out: forum.classiccougarcommunity.com/search?q=Wilwood
DUDE PLEASE HELP I HAVE A 1971 LINCOLN MARK 3. I HAVE A BRAKE BOOSTER THATS BAD and cant find one to replace do you know if a 71 mustang booster will work? any advice is appreciated
I have an 67 cougar I have installed an power disc kit haven’t been able to get it to work right . Have very little braking hard pedal have good vacuum. Several shops have worked on it without fixing it not safe to drive
Thanks for the video. Question : I have a 76 CJ7 jeep that was stock with manual drum-drum brakes. I converted to front power Disc brakes and used a dual MC power booster from a YJ wrangler but the piston rod is a bit longer and so I dropped my brake pedal to allow room for the extra length. Problem is, now the brakes are soft. I have to pump them to get it to stop. (yes, the bleeder screws are on the top of the calipers). Any idea what is causing the soft pedal? Do I have to switch to a YJ brake pedal? Or is the piston rod adjustable? Thanks again for the video. Thanks for the video.
Jeeps are not our forte, our experiance is with the 67-73 Cougar/Mustang. Have you tried asking at any of the Jeep Forums to see if anyone has any ideas: jeep-cj.com/community/
Don,I need your help and any input from some viewers will be much appreciated as well! My problem is, that I can't find a brake booster for my '70 T-bird. Nobody seems to have them. Now, you mentioned in the video that it doesn't matter what car or if you have disc/disc, drum/drum or disc/drum because they all work the same - as long as you have the years correct for the linkage. Teardrop for 60's and straight for '70's. Now, I have a spare booster lying here from a '72 Riviera, would that fit?? Or what would be compatible?
Do you still have your original booster? If so, send it to Power Brake Exchange in Portland, OR. They are the best booster rebuilders. If not, your best bet is to find an original 1970 T-Bird core booster to send in for rebuild. You don't want to mess with changing your brake pedal if you don't have to. Not sure what the differences are between Cougars and T-Birds in terms of the brake booster configuration. You might also get in touch with Bird Nest (tbirdbarts.com) even though they stop at '66. They might have some tips. Highly doubtful that your Buick booster would fit a Ford, but who knows!
does this information also work on a 1967 ranchero fairlane 500 xl. im having the issue of just barely touching the brake peddle and it locks up the brakes.my booster is straight not teardrop at the end of the shaft.i purchased the car with this problem. can i send you my booster for rebuild and how much for the rebuild.mine does have the fordmoco label and is in good looking condition..thanks for the info. in advance.
Yes! Internally our midland booster is the same as yours. Here is a link for purchasing it on our site, pictures should be up and stock on hand within 2 weeks. Thanks for asking! secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/brake-booster-midland-power-brake-premium-rebuilt-1966-1967-ford-fairlane-/-ranchero-/-cyclone.html
I cant find any info on restoring my 4th gen 78' Cougar, very hard to find parts...do you have any links of places to find parts, or where i can buy a cougar that is in great condition with the brown interior with center console, and GT gauges. My Cougar is sentimental to me, but i cant be paying 50 grand to restore it, so im trying to remove and replace everything that i can back to factory original. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I have a 92 cougar with all kinds of problems because I drove it to hell. Never been a car guy more of a nerd but now I'm past the master cylinder to the power brake booster because because the brakes get hard when the car is off and goes all the way to the floor as soon as the car is started..... zero stopping power even if I'm pumping the pedal not to mention not to mention that I have a battery issue maybe some 40 grounding and I think that the head gasket is blown because we're building combustion pressure into the radiator and with all this being said I am a comic book guy not a card but I got a woman that I love and she don't drive herself I drive for her and she has children that she needs to go to their school and she has doctors that she needs to visit so back to the brake booster please go over all of the most Vital Information I should know
I mean it's really a shame the car was very clean when she got it. it would just cruise and sail at around a hundred and ten miles an hour I know that the speedometer only reads I like 90 but you guys know
10 years? Every car over 20 years old I have ever had also had the original booster. I have a 73 stang over 40 years old. And after 4 decades now it might need replaced. 10 years? Thats just wrong. I have a 20 year old civic with over 250k mile...booster is fine. 20+ year old jeep over 300k miles and original booster. again... 10 years? LMFAO. You must have got a defective booster.