I used an old Rez engineering kit on my '65 C10. I took off that outer bumper bracket, to modify to clear the new box. Same concept as the Rez kit. I reused the end if the column, measured, cut according to instructions, new rag joint-done. Great vid series so far!
NEW Subscriber here,, Great video on this swap. I am actually going to opposite with my 64 C10. For the last 35 years my truck has had powersteering on it. But now that I am going more race and not street I decided to put my manual steering back on. Nice truck you have I will go back and watch your build. Keep up the awesome build. My truck is on my channel along with my other rides.
Thanks for subscribing. I’m glad you enjoyed the video. I’ll have to check out your channel to see your truck. I’ve always wanted to build a drag car or truck. Maybe someday
I enjoy the build as my first vehicle cost $150 from a construction company service vehicle a 1965 C10 Apache. First, I am rebuilding a 1967 C10 that came my way. I have learned many things since starting to update it. #1, The brass strap on the rag joint is actually a ground connection for the horn as otherwise seeks ground thru the column bearings. #2, The P/S gear is very different and could be a Saginaw 500. The 800 series front has a round nose held in with a round internal spring clip. The 605 series uses no recirculating balls for the steering screw, but is still power used in 1981 for a few years. #3, The 66 and older frames are different as the frame is flat, requiring spacers welded into the supplied plate. Yet the cab / dash alignment to the column is more left than the 1967 C10. 1968 and newer is I think wider in front of the wheels because my 67 has 1 inch spacers on all four bolts. This places the steering intermediate shaft inside the wheel house, without a braced notch as the 67 C10 and the column is more straight to the dash. The inside bracket is a nice touch but I have never seen these crack in that area. The inner fender has a bar type bracket that unbolts to allow removal but the steering shaft passes thru this location. The 1967 is a little odd in this mount area using raised bolt hole mounts stamped into the frame to place the manual steering gear inline with the intermediate shaft. The frame does not have a cupped area stamped to allow clearance for a full sized 800 series steering gear. This, it requires 1/2” spacers or 0.560” using the same longer bolts. These pipe like spacers have to be cut in half with halves inside and out to use the same grade 8 bolts. #4, The double belt pulley is a nice touch as this was popular for Chrysler's but only during lock at full turn does the pump see higher pressure that could slip. (Rack & Pinion PSI = 450-600, Steering gear is higher at 850-1,200 PSI) as full lock when the pressure relief valve opens. Just a couple of note as I think out loud. I enjoy seeing another American iron fixed to last on the road long. It's a lot cheaper that new if you can find one on the lot due a chip shortage has dealers have a thin inventory. I like the shirt as well! Best of luck!
Thanks for the info. Now I know what that brass strap is for. Cpp states the steering box is based off a 500 series box. It is a quick ratio which is what I wanted.
Thank you for this video! It’s the instructions that should have came with the conversion kit. Think they could have spared us a photograph of the brackets and their orientation? 😁 Appreciate the time you spent figuring it out and making the video. Your truck looks awesome 🙌🏼
If anyone is installing this on a 1960 to 1962 X Box frame. Its a little more difficult. The top bolt goes through the top of the frame about a eight of a inch up above the frame. Two front bolts I would recommend a sleeve. One has to go through the front angle part of the frame. A 1972 to early 80s power steering box will work. For the collapse shaft. I used a mid 80s Jeep shaft. It bolt directly to the power steering box and has a collapse shaft. U joints instead of the Rag Joint.. Plus you can grind the original column. Remove the knuckle and mount it on where the through hole is. I used original jeep bolt and clamp. Epoxy for safety. Even though the bolt actually does not let it out. You can also drill a small hole and install a roll pin.So Safety is 💯 percent And more Good luck and have fun 👍
Looks like a Solid truck with alot of quality parts , when are you going to Paint your C10 ? Just think how much better the truck would look with a fresh shiny paint job in the original color plus the increase in value ! Good luck.....
Hey,you know what crazy the bottom bolt is t I long !, it's fine thread on the steering box ,and I noticed everyone that changes to power steering there bolts to long also
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing your experience. Summit Racing offers 2 CPP kits for 63-66 GMC/Chev. One is priced about $90 more than the other. Do you know the differences?
400 series vs 500 series steering box. 500 box is a beefer box and I think it’s quick ratio. I chose the kit with the 500 series box. Glad you like the video.
I have a question. That adapter plate is about 3/4" thick. That moves the gear box 3/4" towards the outside of the truck. That means the drag link is now 3/4" too short. If you put the pitman arm on straight, then the idler arm is pointing towards the frame by 3/4". Or do you just "split the difference" on the pitman arm & the idler arm? (they are both pointing inward by 3/8")
Good question. You won’t any of the issues you described. My idler was straight when I installed the pitman arm straight. I don’t know if the gearbox is offset to compensate for what you described but if you install this kit you shouldn’t have any alignment issues. Thanks for watching
I appreciate the video. I'm doing the same kit right now, but having trouble finding the gear box. would you have a part number for the gear box by chance?? Thanks
Thanks for the video. Not sure I like the single nut and bolt. That bolt ever shears and you lose all steering. Don’t think you would ever see a factory setup rely on one 1/4” bolt but I could be wrong. Gave me something to think about.
Thanks. I agree with you. I thought about the same thing about the bolt failing but there instructions did say you can bolt it together or use a 1/4” roll pin. That’s why I used a grade 8 bolt with locking nut. Hopefully I’ll never have an issue.
Man I had to look that up, never heard of a kommando. I don’t know if a ps bracket will work from another type of Chevy car. Like a nova or something like that
Charlie , to set the new gear box ,you set your front tires,straight, right then rotate the gear box count the turns then turn back 1/2 way so there both in the center then install it with pitman arm? Plesse let me know hey love your videos you don't talk fast and cover 100 % of the install
My steering box came centered out of the box but I believe I checked it like you said before I installed the pitman arm. I’m glad you like my videos. I’m from Texas so I can’t talk fast 😆
I love your videos. They are well done and very informative. Your processes have help me on my journey to build my 1964 C10. Thank you and keep up the great work.
I put the same power steering kit on my 66 today. The instructions suck. I threw them in the trash and rewatched this video. Thanks for the awesome content! I saw your truck @ the Norman truck meet. Pretty clean!
Hi, great video 🤘🏻 i’m installing the same kit now and i have a issue with the pitman arm. that means it don’t fit easy on the steering and it needs quite a bit of force to make it fit on the steering. and it seems that the angle from pitman arm from the stock box and the cpp box is not the same 🤔 part numbers are the same yours and mine! it’s a 1964 c10. Did you maybe had the same issue? Thank you for your help.
The pitman arm is a pressed fit so it’s not going to slide on easily. The factory pitman arm and the cpp one are different. The manual steering box arm is straight and the cpp has a bend to it which is normal. Hope this helps.
